TO MY MOTHER 

A DESCENDANT OF ANNEKE JANS 

THIS WORK 
IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED 

F. M. 



(iii) 



THE 

AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

From Knickerbocker Days 
to the Present Time 

NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

IN ALL ITS VARIOUS PHASES 



BY 

FRANK moss, LL.D. 

of the Neio York Bar, Counsel to the Society for the Pi'evention 

of Crime, Triistee of the City Vigilance League, 

President of the New York Board of Police, etc. 

WITH AN INTRODUCTION BY 

REV. CHARLES H. PARKHURST, D.D. 



AJV ^-^^^TOJ^^^^ 



'0/ 






OOPYBIGHT. 1897. 6T P. F. COLLIEa. 




REV. CHAS. H. PARKHURST, D.D 

New York. Vol. One. 



INTRODUCTION 

BY 

CHARLES H. PARKHURST, D.D., |.L.D. 



We live for the future, but our roots are hid- 
den in the past, and any one who has the genius 
to make the past more truly real and alive nour- 
ishes those roots and makes that future more 
bright and prolific. The volume herewith presented 
is the outcome of a revival of the civic spirit as 
that revival has come to its experience and ex- 
pression in the thoughts and activities of one par- 
ticular man. 

This civic revival is, however, something more 
concrete than any mere quickening along general 
lines: it is rather the revival of civic devotion in 
its detailed relations to specific locality. It is a 
great thing to love one's entire country; but there 
is such a thing as the concentration of patriotism 
upon one's own town or city. We are all too 
thoroughly American to be disposed to disparage na- 



INTRODUCTION 

tional loyalty; but what is gained in width is very 
apt to be sacrificed in intensity, and it is intensity 
always rather than diffusion that does the world's 
work. 

The thing accordingly which the residents of a 
city — of our own City, for instance — particularly 
need is to have their civic regards focused upon 
home ground. The better our City is, the more we 
can love it; but it is only by loving it more that 
it can become better, and before we can love it 
more we need to know it more. Neither a gen- 
erality nor an ambiguity can excite affection. Love 
loses its way in the dark. 

It augurs well for our municipal future, there- 
fore, that so many earnest and intelhgent efforts 
are being put forth to make our acquaintance with 
New York Citj' more thorough and appreciative. 
When the time comes that the general mind has 
been made sensible to present conditions, and the 
honest consciousness of our day has penetrated to 
the core of our municipal character and situation, 
the death knell will have been sounded to much 
of evil that still mixes with the better ingredients 
and confuses our prospect. 



INTRODUCTION 

But not onlj' will the objects proposed by the 
present volumes commend themselves to every intel- 
ligent friend of the City, but the scheme of recital 
which the Author has adopted is itself a marked 
feature of the work. It will arrest the attention 
of his adult readers, and will be particularly grate- 
ful to the tastes and instincts of the young peo- 
ple, and it is upon them, primarilj^, that we have 
to base our hopes for the future. Youths are not 
fond of disquisitions, but they like to be shown 
things, which is exactly what Mr. Moss does in 
these pages. An event taken apart from its local 
connections is almost as uninteresting a thing as a 
soul would be with no body for it to be at home 
in. The author of "The American Metropohs" not 
only describes what has occurred in the history of 
our Citj% but knits those events to the particular 
spot where they have transpired, thus clothing them 
with the garments of reality and putting them into 
local relation with the streets that we are to-day 
walking. His idea is a clever one, and can hardly 
fail of catching the attention and holding the in- 
terest of the reading public, younger and older. 

For myself, I personally anticipate the pleasure 



INTRODUCTION 

of putting myself under his guidance in the matter 
of acquiring a geographical appreciation of the 
meaning of the history of my City, and I con- 
gratulate him both on the scheme which he has 
worked out and on the positive service which I 
believe his series of itineraries will be able to ren- 
der to those who will travel with him over the 
past years and the present territory of our beloved 

City. 

Charles H. Parkhurst. 



AUTHOR'S PREFACE 



We are in the midst of a revival of civic 
pride. 

For many years the people of New York 
seemed to be without interest in the history of 
the Citj', in its reputation and in its prospects; 
New York and Tammany Hall were almost syn- 
onymous terms, and citizenship in this great City 
was nowhere esteemed to be an honor — unless it 
was so among the ringsters of other cities, who 
looked with awe at the kings of corruption that 
held despotic sway over the Metropolis, laughing 
at the laws, sneering at their critics, and rolling 
up thieves' fortunes. At last, indignation, tardily 
awakened, grew into burning patriotism, and a 
popular uprising, wisely directed by almost Pro- 
phetic Leadership, made an astonishing change in 
the government of our City — a change which is 
apparent in every civic function. There have been 
similar revolutions before, and conspicuous plunder- 



AUTHOR'S PREFACE 

ers of the people have been hurled from positions 
that seemed impregnable; but, unfortunately, the 
hot blast of public opinion cooled almost as quickly 
as it had been heated, and lasting reformation of 
the public service was not secured. The revolu- 
tions of the past lacked foundations of civic pride 
and patriotic devotion in the mass of the people. 

Those who helped to defeat Tammany Hall in 
1894 tried to awaken in the hearts of all the peo- 
ple, even those who seemed the least approachable, 
a deep love for their City and a personal devotion 
to her interests, which would be potent in their an- 
tagonism to every evil political combination and to 
all enemies of good government. The evidences of 
revived patriotism among the common people are 
more gratifying to those who have longed and 
labored and sacrificed for her betterment than all 
the victories that have occurred in elections. Evi- 
dences of the new life are apparent in the in- 
creased interest of every class in the City's his- 
tory and in its achievements from day to day; in 
the new sympathy that has sprung up between her 
different sections, and even between her different 
races; in the quickness with which the people esti- 
mate the spirit and the purpose of officials; in their 
quickness to sustain and support clean administra- 
tion, and to perceive and resent official incompe- 

X 



AUTHOR'S PREFACE 

tence, carelessness and misconduct; and in the true 
ring of their voices and the quick kindling of their 
eyes when they converse about their City and her 
affairs. 

The makers of books are beginning to reaUze 
the new interest, and the publishers' announcements 
contain many notices of books on New York. The 
magazines and the weeklies teem with articles ex- 
ploiting events of the past or revealing relics of 
olden times, and discussing phases and phenomena 
of our present marvelous activity. A genuine and 
sustained revival of pride in our City and of pa- 
triotism applied to our own homes will make New 
York the richest, the best, and the most excellently 
administered City in the world — a Greater New York 
indeed. 

The writing of a book of any sort was far 
from mj- mind, and the proposition of a pub- 
hsher that I should venture into this field was at 
first rejected. He said that a book which would 
show a composite picture of the history of the 
City and of its present condition was needed, and 
that I ought to write it. This book is the result 
of the publivsher's approach. It has been written 
under difficulties, but the work has been so pleas- 
ant, and has given me so much more satisfactory 
an outlook on Metropolitan affairs, that I venture 



AUTHOR'S PREFACE 

to hope it may be of interest to others and a 
help to more vital citizenship. 

There are monumental histories of our City, 
prodigious in size, deep in research, and exhaustive 
on "gray matter," as well as on the contents of 
pocketbooks; but those treasuries of knowledge are 
not within the reach of the people generally, and 
they do not plainly trace the development of the 
City through the channels of her growth. The 
wonderful civilization in which we live is not the 
result of any revolution, but it is rather a growth 
from a germ once planted on a particular spot on 
Manhattan Island; and the branchings from the 
original stem can be definitely traced. It is one 
thing to be told that two hundred and fifty years 
ago the ''sturdy Dutch,'' as they are generally 
called, built a fort on Manhattan Island and were 
the first settlers; it is a different thing to go to 
Bowling Green and to look at the very spot where 
the fort was built; to walk through the very 
streets in which those first settlers moved, and to 
stand above their mouldered bones. When we do 
this, observing what is now on the spot where 
civilization first began, we begin instinctively to 
note the contrast between the olden times and the 
present, and intelligently to trace the stages of de- 
velopment thi-ough which the mighty and complex 



AUTHOR'S PREFACE 

present has been evolved out of the simple and 
primitive past. For the purpose of inspiring loyalty 
to the great principles on which have been founded 
the noble achievements of New York, it is not nec- 
essary that a ponderous and philosophic tome should 
be written; if that were necessary some one else 
would have to write it. Rather should the heart, 
the sympathies, the tender emotions, be touched; 
rather should we be brought into fellowship with 
those who have dwelt here before us, whose labors 
wc enjoy, and who sustained the burdens that have 
passed from their shoulders on to ours, and out of 
their hearts into ours. Of this we may be sure, 
we can in no better way devote ourselves to our 
Country's good and Mankind's M^elfare than by ad- 
vancing our own City to her highest possible posi- 
tion, and making her institutions means for the up- 
lifting and the enlightenment of all the people. Let 
us be students and lovers of our City. 

The plan of our work is simple. In its phi- 
losophy we trust it may be correct, but it is not 
a philosophy. Historically, we trust it is true, but 
it is not a history. It is a reminiscent, observant, 
reflective journey on historical lines. We have 
adopted the course which we should pursue were 
we showing the City to a friend. We start at the 
beginning point of its life, making that spot the 



AUTHOR'S PREFACE 

center of interest, and returning to it again and 
again. The first chapter is devoted to the Fort. 
In the second chapter we proceed from the Fort, 
along the favorite road of Dutch times, Pearl 
Street; and make our way back to the beginning 
point through the Swamp, Printing Hovise Square, 
Nassau and William Streets, stopping at the sec- 
ond great development point — the site of the Sub- 
treasury building at the corner of Nassau and Wall 
Streets. The Fort at Bowling Green was the cen- 
ter of the old Colonial life; this second point was 
the focus of the new national life. We return to 
the Fort by way of Broad Street, and then start 
out again along the line of English advance, 
Broadway, and devote a chapter to what may be 
remembered and observed along that highway, in- 
cluding Trinitj^ and St. Paul's churches and their 
burj'ing grounds, and ending at the City Hall Park, 
be^'ond which Broadway did not extend until after 
the Revolution. A chapter is then devoted to 
the City Hall Park, which was the Commons of 
older days, and which was the third great develop- 
ment point in the life of the City. At this spot 
popular government had its rise. It was the gath- 
ering place and the forum of the common people. 
We pass on into the districts east and northeast of 
the Commons, including Five Points, Cherry Hill 



AUTHOR'S PREFACE 

and New Israel, ^vhich together make a very dark 
background for the picture of heroism, growth and 
grandeur. Then we make our way to the East 
River, and return along its front to the Fort. 
From the Fort we start out again through Green- 
wich Street, going as far as the ancient Indian 
village of Sapokanikan, later Greenwich Village, 
now the Ninth Ward, returning to the Fort by the 
North River front. The territory thus traversed is 
small, but it is sufficient to show the rise and 
growth of the City, and is more than enough for 
the limits of this work. 

It has been my design, whenever possible, to 
locate important and interesting events at the places 
where they happened, so that one, considering an 
incident which, the historians tell us, indefinitely, 
occurred somewhere in New York City, can go to 
the very place where the actors in the drama stood 
and spoke, and there say: "This is the spot!" In 
this way our interest is fastened firmly to a local- 
ity or place, and through a succession of events at 
that place we may see the development of prin- 
ciples and the increase of attainments. The three 
development points which I have indicated are 
walked over daily by multitudes, to whom the 
heroic history of the City is a sealed book. They 
would become eager investigators, if they knew what 



AUTHOR'S PREFACE 

other feet had trod those walks before them, and 
what great events had occurred on those oft-traveled 
paths. 

It may be that some will disagree with state- 
ments, argmnents and deductions of the book; let 
that be as it may, we will be one in interest, 
and one in devotion to our beloved City. 

Frank Moss. 



CONTENTS 

VOLUME ONE 



CHAPTER ONE 

.4 SMALL BEGINNING— THE OLD FORT 

Tolerance, the leading Characteristic of Life in New York — 
It grew out of the Dutch Commercial Spirit which Capt- 
ured the English, and still sways New York— Dutch Trad- 
ing — Dutch-English Amalgamation — The old Fort: the 
Germ of New York's Greatness — Dutch Streets — Dutch 
Religion — The first Governor — The first Dominie — The 
tussle between Kieft and Bogardus — The Fort, the Gov- 
ernment House, the Dominie, the Governor, all in the 
Bowling Green Block together — The first Schoolmaster, 
his Failing and his Flogging — First sale of a Lot — First 
Tavern — First City Hall — Dutch Activity — Burgomasters 
and Schepens — Coen and Antye — The Canal Habit— The 
Original First Citizens— First Slave Labor— First Hanging 
—Indian War— White Treachery— The Twelve Men and 
the Eight Men — First Representatives of the People — 
Stuyvesant the Great— More Indian War— Treaty of 
Peace — First City Government— The Great Citizens — 
First Thoughts of Home Rule— Captured by the English 
— The English Flag at Bowling Green — The English and 
the Dutch Worship together — The Dutch again — Ousted 
once more— First Native Mayor — Civil War — Execution 
of Governor Leisler — Corruption, Pirates, Kidd — City 
Hall moved to Broad Street— Wedding — Fire — Suicide — 
xvii 



CONTENTS 

New Governor— Stamps— Dawn of Liberty— Uprising of 
the People — Non-importation Agreement — Tryon and 
_ Washington — Declaration of Independence — Americans 
seize the old Fort —Captured by the English — Evacuated 
— Peace— The old Fort torn down — Famous Residents 
— Battery Park — Castle Garden and its Noble Sur- 
roundings 



CHAPTER TWO 

COXTRASTS— THROUGH PEARL STREET TO THE 

SWA3IP — PRINTING HOUSE SQUARE AND 

PARK ROW 

Pearl Street— Processions — Elevated Railroad — The Nations — 
Humors of Travel — Italians — A backward Glance — Num- 
ber 19 Pearl Street: a Relic— Stuyvesant's White Hall — 
The Weigh House— The Royal Exchange— Old Streets- 
Fire of 1835— Fly Market— The United States, the first 
large Hotel— Hanover Square — Wingate and the Twi- 
light Club — Hunter— Franklin Square — Walton House and 
its Ghost— The Harpers and their Magazine — Fires — Wash- 
ington's Residence, with Reminiscences — Inauguration 
Parade— Cherry Street— Old Residents— The Fight at Fayal 
— Tlie Flag — The Swamp — Tanners and Shoemakers — The 
Carleton House and its Mystery — Printing House Square 
— The old Road — "Sun" Building — "Tribune" Building — 
Tammany Hall; its Ancient and Honorable Origin, its 
Splendid Past, its Corruption: a Contrast — St. Tammany 
and the Tiger — Pictures of Ancient and Modern Tammany 
Leaders — Park Pickpockets, formerly protected, now run 
out— The Stool-pigeon Plan — Newspapers — The Modern 
breed of Editors — Extracts from Newspapers of early and 
of recent Times— Exciting Times in the Square— Recol- 
xviii 



CONTENTS 

lections of Greeley — The Richardson Murder — A Modern 
Slave Hunt— Brick Church— St. George's Park Theater 
— St. Paul Building — Barnum's Museum . . . 128 



CHAPTER THREE 

DEVELOPMENT: FROM THE POST-OFFICE TO THE 

OLD CITY HALL VIA ANN STREET, HORSE 

AND CART STREET, AND THE PYE 

WOMAN'S STREET 

Old Boston Road and New Broadway, and their Gibraltar — 
Ann Street — Horse and Cart Street — Roisterers, Church- 
goers, Gamblers, Pickpockets, Poolsellers and Peddlers — 
Fire Laddies — A Police Mystery with a flavor of Richard 
Croker — A few of the Results of Reform — Restaurants 
various and innumerable — Mouquin's — Delmonico's Rival 
and its odd Characters — Theater Alley — Dolan's "Sink- 
ers" and Hitchcock's "Beef an' " — Dennett's Busy Bees, 
and the Business Men's Quick Lunch, etc., etc. — Oysters — 
Garibaldi's— The Nassau Canyon— Memory of Mary Rog- 
ers, the beautiful Cigar Seller— Christ Church in Ann 
Street— Shoemaker's Pasture— Spring Garden— Bennett 
Building the first large Office Building— Jokers of other 
Days— Grandfather's Clock— Extracts from the first num- 
ber of the "Herald"— Comparison with the "Herald" of 
To-day — Fair Street — Partition Street — North Dutch 
Church— Firemen's Hall— Moravian Church— Shake- 
speare Tavern— Seventh Regiment— The old Theaters- 
First Methodist Church— Mr. Reid's Testimony— Battle of 
Golden Hill— First Blood of the Revolution— Papodopolo 
— Washington Irving's Mischievous Boyhood— Work for 
xix 



CONTENTS 

Women— Old Memories— More old Churches— The Middle 
Dutch Church— A Prison for Patriots— The Graveyard— 
The old Bell— Aaron Burr— The Treasury— Federal Hall— 
The Pillory and Stocks again— Inauguration of Washing- 
ton—Congress—Wall Street— De Peyster Garden— Trinity 
Church at one end, a Slave Market at the other— The first 
Bank — Immense Business Interests — Riots of 1834— The 
great Meeting after the Assassination of Lincoln — Gar- 
field's Inspiration— Centennial of Washington's Inaugu- 
ration 294 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 



VOLUME ONE 

Frank Moss, LL.D.— Frontispiece 

Rev. Chas. H. Parkhurst, D.D 

Map of New York in 1673 and Sky-Line of New York from Brooklyn at the 

Present Day 1 

Ship and AVoman 4 

Picture of New York as seen from the Harbor in 1776, before the Burning of 

Trmity Church 5 

Old Dutch Merchant and Modern Merchant 6 

William H. Wood 7 

Map of the Battery, showing Changes since 1783 14 

The Gracht 16 

Old Dutch Life 18 

The Old Fort 82 

Plan of Fort George 23 

Whipping of the Schoolmaster 24 

Dutchman Eating Clams 37 

Theodore Roosevelt 40 

Coen and Antye Embracing 44 

Old Bridge and Dock at the Whitehall Slip 53 

Wooden Statue of Governor Stuy vesant on Broadway 66 

Lord Cornburj- 86 

Government House on Site of Old Fort 100 

Stone Lions on Stoop of No. 17 Broadway 104 

The Battery in 1869 107 

Burning of the Crystal Palace 109 

New York, in the Beginning 116 

View of the Lower End of Manhattan Island from the Brooklyn Shore.. 117 

Old Doorway of No. 8 Pearl Street 18S 

Ruins of the Merchants' Exchange after the Destructive Fire of December 

16 and 17, 1835 137 

New York Cotton Exchange, Beaver and William Streets 141 

United States Hotel, Fulton and Pearl Streets 160 

Old Houses, 163 and 306 Pearl Street 163 

Sitting-room of Walton House, in Pearl Street, 1840 164 

Carriage Costume, and Coiffure 168 

xxi 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 



Sugar Boiling 169 

Deplorable Ignorance 170 

An American Methuselah 171 

Comic 172 

How to Insure against Railway Accidents 173 

Comic 174 

Washington's Residence, Franklin House 176 

Present Usage, State, and Environment of the Coach of General Wash- 
ington 183 

Samuel C. Reid 187 

The Attack on the American Privateer "General Armstrong" in the Har- 
bor of Fayal, Azores, September 20, 1814 189 

Engine Co. No. 25,1809, Tryon Row, City Hall Square 197 

Sheridan shook the Found.ation of the Tower of Strength of the Republican 

Party 199 

City Hall in 1822 200 

First Tammany Hall 201 

Second Tammany Hall 202 

The Founders of Tammany 204 

Present Heads of Tammany Hall 205 

Tammany Kings 206 

Tiger Carried on "Americus" 207 

New Tammany 212 

St. George's Chapel, Beekman Street 249 

The St. Paul Building 253 

Burning of Barnum's American Museum 257 

The New York Federal Table as seen from Bunker's Hill 290 

Map of New York in 1729 295 

Plan of the City of New York from an Actual Survey in 1755 297 

Engine No. 5, "Honey Bee" 299 

Early Type of Steam Engine 301 

William M.Tweed 302 

An Old Time Race 303 

Fire Engine Competition at Ridley's Pole 303 

Old North Dutch Church 343 

Shakespeare Inn, Fulton and Nassau Streets 346 

First Methodist Episcopal Church, 120 WilUam Street 351 

Old Houses in William Street, between Fulton and John Streets, in 1861 . . 361 

French Church, Pine Street 376 

First Presbyterian Church 381 

First Post-Offlce, 29 William Street 383 

Second Post-Office, Garden Street (Exchange Place) 3*3 

Fraunces' Tavern 406 



XXII 







^mk 




The Dutch jIap 



Nieinv Amst< nlam oiil;in,2c Nieuw Jmck sena»it eo( 
(X.'W Aiiislerilain, lately calleil New York, { 



1. Tlie Cajisfy -dividing tlie two rivers. Tlie ship is the " Suiri- 
nam," 44 kuhs, coiimianded by Capt. t'olve. 

D. (iev^iiiL-. II liu\ - ITison liouse in tlie fort, built by Gov. Kieft. 
K. (Jcril 'I. K. I. k. Reformed Duteli Cliurch, uullt iu the 

fort by Cov Ki. II Mj 

F (iin .rii. Ill ~ l^.u-.^ At the northeast bastion, which was al- 
most (■.\,i.il\ .11 III' .-iiic-r .'f H.n\ liii- (ireen and Whitehall Street, 
the ln->t [in i-ihl'i st,,ii,.,| ,,m mi li? - t- t;o oii,-e a nioiitii to lios- 



1 Street, built! 



E ZXl T^" Hi .i:3» 





l6.-)8. Theprl 




tiont..theCl 


H. 


De W: 


iiih 


The weifjhl 


G. 


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vn. Fublle s 


Whitehall 


o 1 


•oad Streets. 


T. 


leerei 


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rlit. Gentlei 


ohIU 




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SKYLINE OF NEW YORK FROl 







s.. 



by de Nederlanders op den 24 Aug:., 1673. 
)v the Dutch on the 24th August. 1673.) 



Published in Holland. 



:cDTsrs. 

and shelter was given 



ar Stone Street, from 

Broad Street. It was 
he Great Dyke in 1672. 
xeets paved. It was 



earl Street. Built in 



L. Luthersche Kerck. Lutheran Church, now Exchange Place. 

7. Smet Street. Lower end of William Street. 

R. 2. Rondeel. Now Old Slip. 

M. Water-poort. The water gate. 

II. The Cingle. Wall Street. 

O. Land-poiirt. The land gate. 

11. Maagde paetje. Maiden Lane. 

N Sniidt.s' Vly smith's Valley. Foot of Maiden Lane and site 
of Fly JIarket. 

Q. Wint molen. Windmill, near Broadway, between Liberty and 
Cortliiiidt streets. 

r. WeK na't versche water. The way to the fresh water— the 
way to Ciillect Pond: the site of the Toml)«. 




I AT THE PRESENT DAY. 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

IN ALL ITS VARIOUS PHASES 



CHAPTER ONE 

A SMALL BEGINNi:SG—THE OLD FORT 

Tolerance, the leading Characteristic of Life in New York — 
It grew out of the Dutch Commercial Spirit which Capt- 
ured the English, and still sways New York— Dutch Trad- 
ing—Dutch-English Amalgamation— The old Fort: the 
Germ of New York's Greatness— Dutch Streets— Dutch 
Religion— The first Governor— The first Dominie— The 
tussle between Kieft and Bogardus— The Fort, the Gov- 
ernment House, the Dominie, the Governor, all in the 
Bowling Green Block together— The first Schoolmaster, 
his Failing and his Flogging— First sale of a Lot— First 
Tavern— First Cit3- Hall— Dutch Activity— Burgomasters 
and Schepens— Coen and Antye— The Canal Habit— The 
Original First Citizens— First Slave Labor— First Hanging 
—Indian War— White Treachery— The Twelve Men and 
the Eight Men — First Representatives of the People — 
Stuyvesant the Great— More Indian War— Treaty of 
Peace — First City Government — The Great Citizens — 
First Thoughts of Home Rule— Captured by the English 
—The English Flag at Bowling Green— The English and 
the Dutch Worship together— The Dutch again— Ousted 
once more— First Native Mayor— Civil War— Execution 
of Governor Leisler — Corruption. Pirates, Kidd — City 
Hall moved to Broad Street— Wedding— Fire— Suicide- 
New Governor— Stamps— Dawn of Liberty— Uprising of 
the People — Non-importation Agreement — Tryon and 
Washington — Declaration of Independence — Americans 
seize the old Fort —Captured by the English— Evacuated 
— Peace— The old Fort torn down — Famous Residents — 
Battery Park— Castle Garden and its Noble Surroundings 

The swirling currents that lave the shores of 
Manhattan Island, flo^ving in every direction, are re- 
produced in the human currents that eddy and rush 
through the streets of New York. The diversities 
of wind and weather that bless and afflict the peo- 
1 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

pie of the Metropolis are faint illustrations of the di- 
verse elements in the hfe of the City and of their 
contrary movements. There is a mj^sterious and 
starthng lack of harmon}' between the constituents 
of the City's life. The people do not know their 
next-door neighbors, and are not concerned with 
what happens on the block next to theirs; and they 
bustle about their business without seeing or know- 
ing vast sections of the City that are directly affect- 
ing their social affairs, and indirectly touching all 
of their interests. The City bounds forward under a 
general impulse of growth, leaping along the path- 
way of material progress with incredible speed; and 
yet its citizens, in large pai-t, are indifferent to the 
concerns of their neighbors, and are oblivious to the 
advantage of mutual civic interest and popular com- 
binations of civic effort. 

Political organizers alone powerfully use the ad- 
vantages of cooperation and coordination of popular 
forces for pubHc purposes. Those who are unself- 
ishly interested in the advancement of virtue and 
true prosperity have not yet learned to combine 
their large numbers and to pull together. 

Is there a single trait, characteristic of the entire 
City, continuous through its history and fundamen- 
tally connected with its development? There is great 
philanthropy— in streaks; there is corruption — in places; 
there is old-time Americanism — in sections; there is 
Continental liberality — in spots all over; there is Pu- 
ritanism — to match the Liberality; but the Spirit of 
Tolerance is New York's peculiar characteristic. This 
2 



NEAV YORK CITY LIFE 

spirit operates in all affairs — business, social, relig- 
ious, political — and proceeds from an unconscious but 
all-controlling realization of the duty of minding our 
own business and letting other people mind theirs. 

Tolerance was essential to the development of the 
commerce for which New York has always been pre- 
eminent. It was the natural outgrowth of the com- 
mercial spirit. Even in the strained relations arising 
from the "excise question," when one class of citi- 
zens parades tableaux of Liberty, in tears, surrounded 
by the Muses weeping because they cannot have free 
beer on Sunday, and another class demands that the 
hquor business shall be entirely extirpated — between 
these two extremes stands the conservative mass of 
citizens, who manage to see some claims on each 
side, to tolerate both sections of extremists, and to 
provide a middle course between them. This spirit 
of tolerance causes religious factions that have been 
making holy attempts to cut each other's throats on 
other continents, to live together, holding their rehg- 
ious services separately, but buying and selling, as- 
sociating in political and other ways, and crossing 
the bloody line with intermarriages. This spirit is at 
the bottom of the glory and the shame of New York; 
behind it the thieves, who have disgraced official po- 
sitions, have hidden and have escaped punishment — 
on the plea of party necessitj^ sometimes — and in it 
the great and almost unmatched benevolent enter- 
prises of the City have reached a magnificent growth, 
and are stretching their heads to heights unmeasured. 
This trait has distinguished the City from the begin- 
3 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 



ning. New York was not founded by refugees from 
religious persecution, nor by con-s-icts or paupers de- 
ported from their homes, nor by great and good men 
intent on securing their own form of worship and pre- 
venting all other forms. The thrifty, trading, perti- 
nacious Dutchmen were the first to open up the pos- 
siDihties of Manhattan Island, and though they have 
long since disappeared, at least in any bodily sem- 
blance, and with them the sugar-loaf hats, the mul- 
tiplied petticoats and breeches, and the other para- 
phernalia so sweetly described by Washington Irving, 
yet it is true that those Dutchmen, little knowing 
what they did, laid the foundations of New York's 
prosperity, and connected themselves wdth all that is 

to come. They 
couldn't build 
anything w i t h - 
out laying sohd 
foundations. 
Each pair of 
breeches was 
doubled and re- 
enforced in the 
seat; each house 
had a foundation 
built substantial 
^ ^ enougli for two 

Ship and Woman. houscs ; and, as 

a wit has said, " They built their ships on the 
model of their women," who were even better 
founded than the meu. 




NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

It was a queer trade — at least as we view trade — 
that these old Dutchmen had with the Indians and 
with each other about the old Fort at Bowling 
Green; but they traded on honor, they gave and 
they received fair values, and Yankee tricks were 
unknown to them. The Spirit of Commerce, who 
made New York the Queen of the AVest, was born 
right here at Bowling Green, and the ghosts of the 
Dutch traders are here still, and are often seen and 
heard by those who are subject to spiritnons influ- 
ences. 

The Produce Exchange cannot get far away from 
the ghostly spell, and, notwithstanding the efforts of 
some newspapers and real estate speculators to con- 
vince the people that the commercial center of the 
City should be at Herald Square, and that all busi- 
ness to be properly done must go there, we may 
be sure that the good Dutch ghosts which inhabited 
the bodies, so many of which have been received 
into mother earth between Bowling Green and Wall 
Street, will continue to exert their potent force and 
will hold the great commercial interests where they 
have ever remained and ever will remain. (This is 
a private pointer for investors in real estate.) 

We say it was a queer trade, for money was 
almost unknown, the unit of value being a beaver 
skin, and the currency being provided b}" bits of 
clam and periwinkle shells deftly cut and polished. 
Our great merchants handle gold, but their Dutch 
ancestors bought and paid for their produce with 
clam shells and beaver skins. The Dutch were not 
5 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 



allowed to monopolize this choicest of trading sites, 
for the EngHsh came and wrested it away from the 
control of the 
Dutch compa- 
nies, but they too 
fell under the 
commercial spell. 
They came not 
for liberty, nor 
for religion, but 
to trade — where 
the Dutchmen 
had started the 
market. The En- 





Old Dutch Merchant. 

glishmen of New 
. York were un- 
^,; like the Enghsh- 
men of Virginia. 
They were here 
to do business, to 
construct a busi- 

Modern Merchant. neSS State, tO let 

each other alone and to be let alone. England 

and Holland fought hard enough over the seas, 

6 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

and here too the ■vvar had its Uttle counterpart in 
the taking and the retaking of the ancient Fort; 
but when the EngHshmen had settled down to stay, 
they found the Dutchmen pretty good fellows, and 
the Dutchmen found their old enemies genial and 




William H. Wood. 

A good example of the Dutch-English amalgamation 

—Father's name, Joshua Wood; mother's name, 

Joanna De Groot. 

hearty companions in trade. They realized that there 
was room enough for everybody. They simply sat 
down and tolerated each other, and the result was a 
Dutch-English amalgamation, which has given us 
some of the strongest and sturdiest characters in the 
world. It is hard to match the industry, the deter- 
7 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

mination, the perseverance and the energy of those 
who have this ancestry; and there are many such in 
the City. 

It was funny enough when the Dutchmen and the 
Enghshmen began to amalgamate on the clothing 
hue. When a Dutch tailor made a suit of clothes 
for an Englishman, the result was very amusing; 
but it was much harder for the clothed victim when 
the English tailor made a suit for the Dutchman. 
Little by httle they got together on the matter of 
clothes, and the result was a New York style — and 
New York styles lead the world to this day. If 
you- don't believe it, take a walk through London 
and see the processions of ill-fitted gentlemen who 
look like guys. You will continue to purchase your 
clothing in New York. 

When the Englishmen and the Dutchmen swapped 
peltries for produce, and their children exchanged 
smiles and kisses at the kissing bridge — and followed 
the kissings with weddings, as they were bound to 
do — the causes for hatred, which seemed so great 
across the ocean, were only remembered as a tradi- 
tion, or a nightmare. The historians have quarreled 
about the location of the kissing bridge, three sej^a- 
rate places having their respective champions; but 
we common folks easily see that there were three 
kissing bridges. Their successors are in Central 
Park, as anj observant visitor may notice. 

"We have not forgotten, in our estimate of the 
commercial honor of those times, that some evil de- 
signing individuals undertook to' make themselves rich 
8 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

by debasing the currency. The clam-shell money, 
which was called by the Indian name of seivan, 
possessed some intrinsic value, because of its fine 
workmanship; but the aforesaid e\nl designing folks, 
whom the Dutchmen alleged to be degenerate En- 
ghshmen, made seivan by the wholesale, of very de- 
ficient workmanship, so that the early government 
had to issue an edict against this debased currency. 
Certain it is that some bad-looking men, who were 
not Dutchmen, and who had mysterious converse with 
certain bad Indians, waxed rich and Hved in riotous 
excess. Was this the beginning of "Free-coinage"? 
It is customary for writers, who are describing 
New York, to begin by carrying their readers up 
through the beautiful Narrows, and giving them a 
bird's-eye view of the City for an introduction; but 
we who know the way home from Coney Island, 
and are quite familiar with this bird's-eye view, 
would do better to begin our observations at the 
point where the commercial life of the New "World 
had its beginning, and the point from which New 
York's history, as well as New York's institutions, 
have been developed. This pivotal point, of which 
the hurrying throngs are strangely ignorant, is lo- 
cated in the row of houses south of Bowhng Green. 
Number 4 Bowling Green, now occupied by the Cu- 
nard Steamship Co., and bearing the tablet of the 
Holland Society, stands on the north wall of old 
Fort Amsterdam, and the alley which runs up from 
the rear of the block behind the fruit auction rooms 
of Brown & Seccomb (called "Whitney Street after 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

Stephen Whitney, the niilhonahe merchant, who 
once Uved at Number 1 Bowhng Green) enters 
the heart of the old Fort. The Broadway cars run 
over its west rampart. On this block have hap- 
pened some of the most important and stirring 
events in American history; from it have gone the 
impulses of New York's greatness, and on it to-day 
are the offices of the Atlantic steamship companies, 
which unite this commercial city with the great na- 
tions of the old world. 

Om- progress has been so rapid, and the past has 
faded so quickly, that many well informed people 
who know that the beginning of our city was in 
and aroimd a Dutch fort, at the southern end of 
the island, imagine that Castle Garden stands on 
that site; but old New Yorkers who used to attend 
the concerts in that obsolete fort, when Jennie Lind 
sang, remember that it was out in the water, on 
large black rocks, and that they had to cross from 
the mainland on a bridge. It will surprise many 
to know that nearly the whole of Battery Park is 
on made ground. The southern water-hne was just 
a Uttle south of Pearl Street, where it curves into 
State Street, while the western water-line was at 
Greenwich Street, and the eastern water-hne at Pearl 
Street. The important districts l>ing outside of those 
streets have all been rescued fi'om the waters. The 
filling in, east and west, was done shortly after the 
Revolutionary War. The City owned the lands be- 
tween high t.nd low water marks, under the Don- 
gan Charter, and it sold lots all along the present 
10 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

Water and Front Streets at about $30 apiece, the 
purchasers filhng them in and building on them. 

Speaking of the spirit of tolerance which has dis- 
tinguished the inhabitants of Manhattan Island, it is 
noteworthy that no one has been put to death for 
his religious con%'ictions. A statute was passed in 
1700, which prohibited Catholic priests from preach- 
ing in the City on pain of death. It was enacted 
by the governor and his council to prevent the 
French from working among the Indians and turn- 
ing them against the English and Dutch Protestants. 
It was never enforced. A priest named Ury was ex- 
ecuted on the Common, now the City Hall Park; 
but the real offense charged against him was com- 
plicity in the negro uprisings, which were believed 
to be so serious as to require the most rigorous meas- 
ures of repression, and the testimony implicated him 
in the plot. Ury protested his innocence in the most 
touching words, and those words leave no doubt that 
his punishment was not connected Avith his religious 
practices. 

The witchcraft heresy could get no foothold here. 
While New England blazed with the baleful flames 
of burning \vitches, the people of New York looked 
on with interest; and though the}" — simple folks — 
could not' deny what the ver}^ intelhgent philoso- 
phers of New England asserted about witchcraft, 
yet, when such accusations were made, no tribunal 
would convict the accused. Anne Hutchinson, an 
estimable woman, who was adjudged gmlty in Rhode 
Island and banished from that colony, found refuge 
11 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

in what is now PeUiam Park; and, though accused 
by the frightened people of Westchester, was found 
harmless by the New York authorities, and received 
permission to remain there in peace. It was left for 
the Indians to kill Mrs. Hutchinson. 

As an example of the delusion which held our 
brethren in New England, we may read the follow- 
ing questions and answers in the examination of a 
httle girl who was imprisoned as a witch. 

"How long hast thou been a witch?" 

"Ever since I was six years old." 

"How old are you now?" 

"Brother Richard says I shall be eight years old 
next November. ' ' 

"You said you saw a black cat once; what did 
it say to you?" 

"It said it would tear me to pieces if I did not 
sign iny name to a book." 

"How did you afflict folks?" 

"I pinched them. My mother carried me to afflict 
them." 

"How could your mother carry you when you 
were in prison?" 

"She came hke a black cat." 

"How did you know it was your mother?" 

"The cat told me she was my mother." 

Returning to our consideration of the old Dutch 
Fort, we feel that we must, if possible, ascertain its 
exact location. There was a little hillock which ex- 
tended from State Street south of Bowling Green 
eastward across Whitehall Street, and south of Bridge 
12 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

Street, which was specially adapted for fortification. 
The surrounding ground was low, and in some places 
marshy and wet. A creek ran up Broad Street 
nearly to Wall Street, and the boats which foinid 
harbor in it were well protected by the Fort, which 
was built on the hill. The northern entrance of the 
Fort was a little west of Number 4 Bowling Green. 
The western wall, which was armed with cannon, 
lay mostly within the present lines of State Street, 
and the southern wall, which was also armed, did 
not quite reach to Bridge Street. No part of the 
Fort, excepting possibly the northeastern corner, 
touched Whitehall Street, It is most interesting to 
note that the northern line of the Fort is covered 
by the buildings noAv used as offices for the great 
steamship companies, including English, French, Ger- 
man and American lines, and the western line is oc- 
cupied by the houses on State Street devoted to the 
reception and the care of immigrants of various na- 
tionalities, and the southern line is occupied by a 
great auction room for tropical fruits; but the east- 
ern line of the block (Whitehall Street), which did 
not sustain any portion of the old structure, is oc- 
cupied by a row of httle stores of various kinds, 
which are entirely out of company with their neigh- 
bors on the other sides of the block, and are entirely 
out of relation with the business palaces across White- 
hall Street. Here are some of the signs which ap- 
pear on the buildings on the State Street side of the 
block. 

New York "Mercury," September 7, 1767: "Yes- 
13 



THE AMEIIICAX METROPOLIS 

terday morning the coroner's inquest set on the body 
of one WilHam Kieth, a soldier of the Sixteenth Regi- 
ment, who was found drowned near the end of 



BATTEKt 




Pearl Street, under the wall of the Battery." This 
poor soldier's body lay just west of the Elevated 
Railroad, on a line continuing Pearl Street into Bat- 
tery Park. 

14 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

The sketch, on previous page, of the Fort and 
of the streets will prove interesting. 

In this neighborhood are the oldest streets of the 
City. Few of them have remained exactly as they 
were originally laid out; but the httle section of 
Pearl Street south of the Fort block, rmming from 
State to Whitehall, is almost in the same position, of 
the same mdth, and on the same hnes as it existed 
in the earliest period. It is impossible to find a reHc 
of the oldest Dutch buildings; for those structures 
were nearly all consumed in the great fires of 1776 
and 1835, and those which remained have given way 
to more modern buildings; but a walk through this 
neighborhood will carry one far into the past, and 
an observation of the house at Number 19 Pearl 
Street will almost convince the investigator that he 
has got back into the earliest colonial period. Broad 
Street was the place which delighted the hearts of 
the Dutchmen, because it reminded them of home. 
By common consent the navigable stream which ran 
through its middle was kept so that trading boats 
could run right into the center of the settlement, 
and the houses that were built along its banks were 
kept sufficiently far from it to make reasonable pas- 
sageway on either side. Here was a natural canal, 
and so Broad Street became the principal street, un- 
der the name of the Heere GracM, or Gentleman 
Canal. 

In course of time the walls of the canal were 
sided with boards, and the expense was assessed on 
those who lived on its banks, at the rate of forty 
15 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

guilders (116) per rod. Those on the west side, from 
the river to Beaver Street, were: Hans Dreper, 1 
rod 10 feet; Hendrick, the baker, 5 rods 4i feet (he 
refused to pay and was imprisoned) ; Tunis Cray, 2i 
rods; Oloff S. Van Cortland, 3 rods 13 feet; Ferick 
Lubbersen, -t rods 3i feet; Peter Merrist, 1 rod 10 
feet; Gerrit Jansen Roos, 2 rods; Reinhart Rein- 




Thc Gracht. 

houtzen, 4 rods; Coenraet Ten Eyck, 2 rods 2i feet; 
David Wessels, 1 rod lOi feet; Peter Van Naarden, 
1 rod 9i feet; Guilan Cornells, 3 rods 5i feet. On 
the east side, from Beaver Street to the river, they 
were: Jochem Beekmau, 2 rods Hi feet (he wouldn't 
pay and was imprisoned) ; Jacob Backer, Jan Rutger- 
zen, 2 rods 5 feet; Abraham, the carpenter, 3 rods 
IG 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

1 foot; Adrian Vincent, rods 10 feet; Jacob Van 
Cowenhoven, 6 rods 6i feet; Cornelis Melyn, 4 rods 
7 feet; Henrick Jansen Vandervin, 4 rods 7i feet. 

A semi-circular dock was built where the stream 
emptied into the riv^er, in which the little vessels an- 
chored securely. This basin is now solid ground. 
The intervening space between the Broad Street 
canal and the Fort was traversed b}' Beaver Street, 
through which a little creek (the Bever Gracht) ran 
into the Broad Street water, and by Marketfield 
Street, Stone Street, and Bridge Street, which were, 
of course, in those days, known by more euphonious 
names, suitable to the Dutch tongue. On Market- 
field Street the French Huguenots erected their place 
of worship. Its site is covered by the present Prod- 
uce Exchange, which is built over a portion of that 
street. The Huguenots were about only fom- per 
cent of the population, but they were an exceed- 
ingly valuable element. They loved liberty, they 
were earnest and upright, and they never engaged 
in race hostihties. They made a settlement at New 
Rochelle, and on Saturday nights the people, after 
working hard all week, tramped down to New York 
to enjoy the services in the Marketfield Church. 
They carried weapons, for their route led them 
through the regions often desolated by Indian raids. 
"When they arrived at the Collect Pond, Sunday 
mornings, they washed, ate and rested, sang the 
Sixtieth Psalm, and proceeded on their way rejoic- 
ing. They spent the sacred day in the services of 
the church, and in cheerful visiting with their 
17 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 



friends, and walked home again at night. The op- 
portunity of worshiping God in their own way, mth- 
out molestation, was greatly prized; for they had 
been deprived of it in their native land, and they 
wrote to their friends in France of the great privi- 
lege that they enjoyed. 

Bridge Street was so named because it led to a 




Old Dutch Life. 

bridge that crossed the canal in Broad Street. Near 
this bridge the Dutch merchants met regularly to 
discuss their affairs, and the first Board of Trade 
assembled there. 

The Dutch settlers brought their religion with 

them, and it was a choice and rugged form of the 

Protestant faith, which could survive the absence of 

ministers and vestments. Without priestly leadership, 

18 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

they congregated on Sundays in a horse-mill, which 
was situated on what is now South William Street 
(old Mill Street), near Pearl, and there they turned 
their attention statedly to the matters of their eternal 
welfare, and prayed for protection in a wild and 
strange land. 

Dimng this time Governor Peter Minuet bought 
the whole of Manhattan Island from the Indians for 
trinkets worth $24. The Governor has been accused 
of driving a sharp bargain; but he was, like the 
Irishman, "buying a pig in a poke." There were 
terrible enemies lurking in the great wilderness 
stretching to the north, and he knew not what 
rival claimants might appear. If that sum of $34 
had been put out at compound interest at six per 
cent on May 6, 1626, when it was paid, the pres- 
ent accumulation would be many millions of dollars. 
This is certain, that it was more honorable to pur- 
chase the rights of the Indians for that which was 
valuable to them than it would have been to have 
dispossessed them by force of arms, as has been so 
generally done throughout the country. At about 
this time, and not- far from the spot where this pur- 
chase was made, was born the first white child, 
Jean Vigne, whose parents lived on a little farm 
at Wall and Pearl Streets. Justice Charles H. 
Truax, of the Supreme Court of New York, is 
his descendant. Sarah Rapelje, the first New York 
girl, was born near Albany in 1625. Governor Min- 
uet was succeeded by the elephantine Governor Wou- 
ter Van T wilier, who brought not only his great 
10 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

round self and immense quantities of provisions 
(which made the people very happy), but also — 
what was more highly appreciated by the honest 
settlers— a real live dominie. Dominie Bogardus re- 
ceived a warm welcome, and speedily showed him- 
self to be much more of a man and of much more 
consequence in the community than the governor 
himself. He was not afraid to lecture his rulers 
and to call them to account for their sins, and this 
propensity led to some very rough tussles. 

Bogardus lived up to the law, and he did not 
hesitate to thunder the Divine commands at those 
who did not. Being himself of unimpeachable char- 
acter, and having the courage of his convictions, he 
was not only a spiritual leader, but he was also a 
wise adviser in public affairs. He knew well how 
to take care of himself; for when he was slandered 
by a woman with a long tongue (and those Dutch 
scolds must have been awful), he cited her to court 
to prove her allegations, and when she failed, the 
judgment which he sought and obtained, compelled 
her to parade herseK through the streets, declaring 
with her same long, loud and loose tongue that the 
dominie was a good man, and that she had lied 
about him. There are some things in which we 
might do well to follow our robust Dutch ancestors. 

Of course, a man of such attainments as Dominie 
Bogardus possessed would not long lead worship in 
a horse-mill. He caused a little church to be erected 
on the line of Pearl Street, between Whitehall and 
Broad Streets, fronting the East River (33 Pearl 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

Street), It will be noted that the Dutch preferred 
the East River side of the island, and that it was 
the English, who came afterward, that first opened 
up Broadway and the lands west of Broadway. The 
preference of the Dutch for the east side was due, 
undoubtedly, to the fact that their lovely canal lay 
east of the Fort, and that there were any number 
of bogs and mud-holes up along the east side of the 
island. If the English had not captured New York, 
and had not finally outnumbered the Dutch, the 
Broad Street canal would have been continued, and 
the City would have been crossed and recrossed with 
canals, so that communication would be easy by 
water and boats through all its parts. Had this 
been done, the danger of falling overboard from the 
City would have helped the Prohibitionists to elect 
an alderman once in a while. 

The little chm-ch prospered; but presently the do- 
minie became jealous of the better accommodations 
that the governor had in his snug dwelling ^vithin 
the Fort, and he protested that it was a shame that 
the governor should Hve in a nice house, while the 
pubhc services of God were maintained in a barn. 
It was no easy matter to secure the money for such 
an undertaking as the building of a real church, and 
Bogardus was as shrewd as he was pious; so watch- 
ing his time one day, when the governor and his 
associates were feasting hugely, and while their hearts 
were merry and their heads befuddled with the creat- 
ure comforts which none of them decHned to enjoy, 
he broached his little project and secured the sub- 
21 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

scriptions which were necessary to build the chui'ch; 
and so it was that in due time there arose within 
the walls of the Fort, alongside of the governor's 
house, a httle church, in which the steadfast minister 
maintained the spiritual interests of the settlement. 
Here was the Fort, and in it was the governor 




The Old Fort. 

A. Tlie white house built on the "Strjiud" outside the fort by Governor Stuyve- 

sant, from which Whitehall Street took its name. 

B. The brick house built by Jacob Leislcr, afterward Governor. The first brick 

house built on Manhattan Island. 

C. The "Strand," now AVhUehall Street. 

D. Pearl Street. The bend where the letter D is still exists, as does the little 

house at present Number 19 Pearl Street. 

E. Part of rampart over which State Street now runs. 

F. Part of fort now covered by Brown & Seccomb's fruit auction rooms. 

G. Basin into which the Broad Street creek emptied. Now lilled in and cov- 

ered with buildinprs. 
H. The river, now completely filled in. 

The real' of the church looks out on Bowling Green. 



and the dominie, the governmental house and the 
church. Here was the center of the religious, poht- 
ical and social hfe of the whole of Manhattan Isl- 
and, and out of that center radiated the influences 
22 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 



which have maintained their potency of control even 
down to the present. 

One would think that the youth of our schools 
would be marched round this block on regular oc- 
casions, and that there would be a steadj^ stream of 
people with plans, guide-books and compasses in their 
hands, dihgently spying out the hues and the angles 
of the old Fort and jiestering the brokers, the agents, 
the clerks, the missionaries, and even the immi- 
grants, in efforts to get into the interior of the 



BXPLANATIOW , 



l-The Chappell 
S-Tbe Gorernon Housa 
3-Tho oriccrs Lodjinjt 
4-Th9 Soldien „ „ 
6-Tbe Necessuy tiouie 
6-Tbe FU^lafl ti Mount 
7-The Sentry Boxes 
e-Udde 



ll-Tho Sallyport 
l2-Tho 8«crctirj'« Offlco 
IS-Tbe Fort Oate 
l4-Ahoru-«orkbefor«lt 
LVTbe Fort Well i Pump 
li-Stone Mount 
i;-The Iron Mount 
18-Tho 'fo»n Mount 
19-Two Mortar piecel 



THE FORT IN tIEW YORK 



81-0 1 

ins to theu 
S2>Tbe Armory 



rvdditionsl bulld-J 




Plan of Fort George. 

block, and to stand on the site of the church, the 
governor's house, the well, the pump, the flagstaff, 
and all the other quaint and useful institutions that 
were surrounded by the rude walls. 

Here it was that Minuet heard the lawsuit and 
told the contestants that he would take three days 
to consider the case, but would eventually decide for 
the plaintiff; and here Van Twiller smoked his own 
tobacco, grown at Sapokanikan, in the present Ninth 
"Ward, and blew those prodigious clouds of smoke 
that enveloped himself, his counselors, and all who 
23 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

sought his august presence, and perfumed their 
clothes with its rare staying quahties. Here Gov- 
ernor Kieft planned and ordered his raids on the 
Indians, which brought so much vexation and suf- 
fering to the colony; and here Peter Stuyvesant gave 
to the world his unique exhibition of hard sense and 
honesty, impetuosity and arrogance, until he was 
compelled to sm-render his stronghold to the con- 
quering British. Here, too, came the first school- 
master, who, although he came with Bogardus, was 




Whipping of the Schoolmaster. 

unable to maintain the honor of his calling; for he 
succeeded so poorly in his enterprise of teaching the 
Dutch youths that he was obliged to take in wash- 
ing to eke out his existence; and finall}' was tried 
before the governor upon a disgraceful charge, and 
was sentenced to be flogged and banished. The first 
instruments of punishment were upon the beach, just 
outside the walls of the Fort, and there the poor 
school-teacher received his flogging. How many lit- 
tle urchins danced and whooped, in the crowd that 
24 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

watched the school-teacher's hcking, and how they 
rubbed certain portions of their anatomies when the 
cat-o'-nine tails fell on Roelantsen's back, has not 
been recorded by any historian; but if the present 
New York boy is any sample of the boys of 1646, 
we cannot doubt that there was a rare time among 
the juveniles on that occasion. 

For proof that the schoolmaster took in washing, 
we are referred to the Court record under date of 
Sept. 20, 1638. 

"Adam Roelantsen, plaintiff, against Gilhs De 
Voocht, defendant, on demand, for payment for 
washing. 

"Plaintiff demands payment for washing defend- 
ant's hnen. 

"Defendant makes no objection whatever to the 
price of the washing; but only objects to the time 
at which payment is demanded, as the year is not 
yet elapsed. 

"The Coi-u-t decides that the plaintiff shall wash 
for defendant during the time agreed upon, and then 
he may demand his pay." 

In 1642 he hved on the north side of Stone, be- 
tween Whitehall and Broad Streets, close to Van 
Cortlandt's brewery. He made a visit to Holland 
and worked his passage back to New York, and 
said the prayers for the ship's company. His griev- 
ous offenses and his condign punishment occurred 
after his return. He sold his house, which cost 
him $140, to Go vert Aertsen. His successor was 
Arien Jansen Van Ilpendam. The regular charge 
B-i 25 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

for tuition was two beaver skins per annum. It 
was at about this period that the first recorded sale 
of a city lot appears. Anthony Van Fees paid $9.60 
for a full lot on Bridge Street. At this time, the 
noted Trj'ntje Clock, skilled in the use of herb medi- 
cines, lived at the corner of Pearl and Hanover 
Streets. 

Dominie Bogardus, of whom we have spoken, was 
as pronounced a character as Governor Stuyvesant of 
later days; and when he and the fiery Governor 
Kieft came into conflict, as they often did, even 
the old Avomen forgot their customary gossip, and 
nothing was talked of throughout the communitj" but 
the red-hot warfare between the two great men of 
the city. Kieft was the civic head, and he knew 
it; Bogardus was the spiritual head, and he never 
forgot it. Each had his strong ground and kept one 
foot upon it, while pressing into his opponent's ter- 
ritor}' to administer knockout blows. The governor 
had the best of it in the beginning, because of his 
hold on the courts, into which the dominie was 
forced; but Bogardus soon learned the ways of the 
law and how to use the courts himself; and the 
merry w^ar did not cease until the wrestlers, having 
thoroughly measured each other's strength, agreed to 
call it a draw and to shake hands. 

Bogardus' natural and official force was greatly 
strengthened by his marriage to Annetje, the widow 
of Roelof Jansen — more commonly called Anneke 
Jans. Through that marriage he acquired wealth 
and greater influence. The widow's four children 
2U 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

were: Sarah, who became the wife of Hans Kier- 
stede; Catrina, who married Johannes Van Bruggh; 
Fytje, who married Pieter Hartgers; and Jan Roe- 
lofsen. So, we see, the dominie's relations were ex- 
tended in a very high-sounding manner. Their home 
was near the corner of Whitehall and Bridge Streets. 
The cause of the enmity between Bogardus and the 
governor was the Indian war, which Kieft ordered 
against the advice of many of the people, including 
the dominie, and which involved the colony in great 
loss, suffering and bereavement. Bogardus strongly 
advised against the war, and when it was begun in 
the perfidious massacre of an Indian tribe, fortifying 
himself with the "Dutch courage," which was per- 
missible to preachers as well as the common people, 
he poured out from his pulpit such broadsides of de- 
nunciation that the governor was driven out of the 
church. The situation was decidedly uncomfortable 
for Kieft. He knew that his war was unpopular, 
and he reahzed that, while the people hated him 
for it, they required his official and personal pres- 
ence at the Sunday services in the church. He 
could not attend those services without being de- 
nounced to his face by the indignant minister; and 
when he braved the criticisms of the people, by ab- 
senting himself from the services, he got no more 
relief, for the stentorian tones of the valiant preacher 
penetrated even into the governor's house. Then the 
magistrates, assembled at the old City Hall, were 
inspired by the governor to issue this formidable 
summons to the preacher: 
27 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

"In the name of the Lord, Amen. In the year 
1646, in New Netherland. 

"The Honorable Director and Council, to the Rev- 
erend Everardus Bogardus, Minister of the 
Gospel in this place: 

"Although ^ve were informed of your proceedings 
dming the administration of the former Director, 
Wout Van T\Wller, and though warned to be upon 
our guard, we did not consider it worth our notice, 
because we were confident that no man who 
preached the words of the Lord would so far for- 
get himself, although we possess letters, in your 
handwriting, among others, one of the 17th June, 
1634, from, which it does not appear as if you were 
inspired with the spirit of the Lord, but, to the con- 
trary, in a manner that would be unbecoming heath- 
ens, much less Christians, much less a preacher of 
the Gospel, when you scolded the magistrate ap- 
pointed ov^er you by God, for a child of the devil, 
a consummate villain, declaring that your bucks 
were better than he, and vaunted j^ourself that you 
would give next Sunday, from the pulpit, such a 
shake that you and he should shudder, with more 
of such injurious trash, which we pass by in si- 
lence, out of respect to that honorable man. 

"Dm-ing our government, you permitted yourself 
the same indecorous language, sparing scarce any 
individual in the country, not even A^our own wife 
nor her sister; especially' you conducted yourself in 
that manner when you had been in good company, 
and your spirits were buoyed up, intermingling your 
28 



I 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

human passions freely in what you brought forth in 
the pulpit. In this manner you have continued act- 
ing with the greatest criminals in the country, tak- 
ing their part, and defending them, declining to exe- 
cute the order to distribute the Sacrament of the 
Lord, and not daring to make use of it yourself; 
and, therefore, that it may not be in your power 
to take your ignorance for a pretext, we shall select 
a few samples from a large list, to renew your re- 
membrance : 

"On the 25th September, 1639, when you had ad- 
ministered our Lord's Supper, and perceiving that, 
late at night, the fire was yet burning in the Di- 
rector's mansion, after you had been at the house 
of Jacob Van Curler, and you were thoroughly in- 
toxicated, you exclaimed vehemently at the Director 
and Jochem Pieters, against whom you were en- 
raged, because the Director requested a favor for 
Jacob Peters, which you refused, as appears from 
an affidavit in our possession. 

"Since that period, you have been guilty of many 
deeds vmbecoming a minister of the Gospel, of which 
we, nevertheless, took no notice, in the hope that 
you would behave yourself, at least in yoiu* office, 
as a Christian, until at length, in March, 1643, 
when one Marj^n Andriesen entered the Director's 
room with the deliberate purpose to murder him, 
which was prevented, and he was put in irons. 
Then you embraced the cause of that criminal, com- 
posed his writings, and took upon yourself to defend 
him. But, nevertheless, he was sent in chains to 
29 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

Holland, on which account you audaciously fulmi- 
nated on the subject during a fortnight, and dis- 
honored the pulpit by your passionate behavior. 
Furthermore, the manner in which, during that time, 
you conducted yourself every evening is known to 
all your neighbors. At last, you seemed for a while 
to be reconciled to the Director, and a short inter- 
val of peace was enjoyed; when, however, in 1644, 
one Laurens Cornehsen was here, a man of profligate 
character, who had violated his oath, had committed 
perjury and theft, he was taken under your patron- 
age, and you were in daily correspondence with him, 
for the reason, merelj', that he had slandered the 
Director. 

"In the same year, during the summer, when the 
minister Doughty celebrated our Lord's Supper, you 
ascended the pulpit while in a state of extreme in- 
toxication. So, too, on Friday, before Christmas, in 
the same j'ear, when j'ou preached the preparation 
sermon, you were in the same condition. And when 
you dined, in the beginning of the year 1645, at the 
Attorney-general's, you arrived there in a state of 
int(jxication, denouncing, among others. Deacon Oloff 
Stevensen for a thief, on which the Director, then 
present, addressed j^ou in an affectionate manner, in- 
timating that it was not the place to make use of 
such language — still you went on, and the Director 
said, at last, that when you were drunk you did 
nothing but utter slanderous language. That, on 
last Frida}-, you yom-self came, in a state of in- 
toxication, into the pulpit; that it was indecorous 
30 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

in a minister to lead such a life, which scandahzed 
the whole congregation. 

"Furthermore, when, a few days afterward (viz., 
22d January, 1645), the Director was not at church, 
you denounced him in the most brutal manner, say- 
ing, '"What are the great men of the country? 
What but receptacles of wrath, fountains of pain 
and trouble. Nothing is aimed at but to plunder 
othsr people's property; to dismiss, to banish, and 
carry off persons to Holland.' To avoid further 
scandal, the Director did not longer assist in the 
congregation, being conscious that he never took an- 
other man's property, never committed any injustice 
in his office, never banished a person who had not 
thrice deserved it. If he dismissed some from offices, 
that was his prerogative, for which he is responsible to 
the Directors of the Company, but not to the minister. 

"Furthermore, when, on the 31st March, 1645, 
you were at the wedding of Adam Brower, and in 
a state of intoxication, you again began scolding in 
the presence of the Secretary and the Attorney-gen- 
eral, violently blaming the Director, saying that he 
called your wife a , when you had yourself 

said that you did not believe the Director had said 
so, and that it could not be proved. In consequence 
of your language, we, on the 23d March, moved by 
Christian compassion, and from the consideration due 
to your office, instead cf prosecuting you in a court 
of justice, sent you under seal a Christian admo- 
nition which you twice declined to accept, as was 
reported by the court messengers. 
31 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

"Furthermore, you ministered our Lord's Supper, 
at Passover and Pentecost, ^vitbout partaking of it, 
but conducting yourself in a very offensive manner, 
pretending that the Director sent a person (Lysbet, 
the midv^dfe) to your house, to sue for peace, but 
that you dechned making peace with him. 

"Furthermore, that you abused Anthony de 
Hooge, and vv^hen the peace with the Indians was 
about to be conchided, nothing was left undone by 
you to break off the negotiations, and in lieu of de- 
vout prayers, you pom-ed down a string of invec- 
tives, which might have been followed by the most 
pernicious consequences. 

"When at last peace was concluded with the sav- 
ages, an extract from the orders of the magistrates 
was sent to you, that thanks be offered up to God 
for it. It is true you preached, cmd a good sermon 
too; but you said not a single word about the peace, 
neither thanked our God for it, although the day 
had been set apart for that solemn purpose, and was 
duly observed by all other ministers within our lim- 
its, vrith a fervent zeal. 

"By this your affection toward the Company (by 
whom you are supported), and toward the welfare 
of this countrj', may be estimated. Your principles, 
also, are manifested by j'our patronage of those who 
have defrauded and injured the Company, and by 
the clandestine meetings with them, which still con- 
tinue. 

"Fm-thermore, when you preached a sermon on 
the 22d of December, the day of preparation for the 
32 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

Lord's Supper, you said in public that you often ad- 
ministered the Lord's Supper without partaking of 
it, and wished that thej^ who caused our divisions 
in the church could be cut off. Your bad tongue 
is, in our opinion, the only cause of these divisions, 
and your obstinacy the only reason of their continu- 
ance. We do not know of a single family not de- 
su'ous of settling our troubles, except yourself. When 
you visit a family, you never inquire for the cause 
of their absence from the church. We, however, 
can tell the reason of such absence. On the 24th, 
you informed the congregation that in Africa, which 
has a chmate of intense heat, different species of 
animals come together, by which various monsters 
are generated; but you know not, said you, from 
whence, in such a temperate clime as this, such 
monsters of men are produced. They are the mighty 
ones, who place their confidence in men, and not in 
the Lord! Children might have told to whom you 
alluded. It is these and similar sermons that have 
occasioned our absence from the church. 

"All these things being regarded by us as hav- 
ing a tendency toward the general ruin of the coun- 
try, both Church and State being endangered where 
the magistrate is despised, and it being considered 
that your duty and oath imperatively demand their 
proper maintenance; whereas, your conduct stirs up 
the people (already too much divided) to mutiny and 
rebelhon — that the introduction of novelties causes 
schisms and abuses in the church, and makes us a 
scorn and a laughing-stock to our neighbors, all 
33 



THE AMERICAX METROPOLIS 

which cannot be tolerated in a country where jus- 
tice is maintained; wherefore, our sacred duty de- 
manded that we seek out a remedy against this evil; 
and this remedy we now intend to employ, in virtue 
of our high commission from the Company, and we 
design to prosecute you in a court of justice; and, 
to do it in due form, we made an order that a copy 
of these om- deliberations should be delivered to you, 
to answer in fourteen days, protesting that we in- 
tend to treat you with such Christian lenity as our 
conscience and the welfare of State and Church shall 
in any way permit. 2d January, 164G." 

If half of the charges specified were true, Bo- 
gardus should have been summarih^ expelled from 
his office. He was required to answer the complaint, 
and several answers were decided to be evasive. Or- 
der after order was issued, threatening him with dire 
punishment. This touching epistle was presented to 
him: 

The Honorable Director and Council, to the Rev. 
Bogardus, Minister of the Gospel in 
this City. 
"Although the proposal which we made to you 
to leave the decision of our dispute to impartial 
men, agreeably to your wishes, sufficiently justifies 
our proceedings, and shows our inclination for good 
understanding, while your refusal to assent thereto 
shows a contrary disposition; nevertheless, the re- 
spect which we owe to the sacred dignity of j-om- 
office, and om* cordial wishes for your welfare, in- 
34 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

duces us once more to bring the subject to your at- 
tention, inasmuch as a highly favorable opportunity 
presents itself from the presence here of the minis- 
ters, Revs. Johannes Megapolensis and Mr. Doughty, 
to whom may be joined such other impartial mem- 
bers as you may select. And we do solemnly pro- 
test, that, in case of your refusal, we shall be com- 
pelled to go on with the prosecution, and in order 
that we may all, in the midst of the congregation, 
pray to God to dispose our hearts and yours to a 
Christian reunion, it is our desire that the Rev. Me- 
gapolensis shall preach next Sunday, as has been his 
custom, when here, and that we may thus again 
have an opportunity of admiring the great gifts and 
talents which God has bestowed upon him. Where- 
fore, we are assured j'ou will not decKne to relin- 
quish the pulpit on that occasion, and afford us the 
opportunity of hearing him. We expect your answer 
on this last point to-daj'; and on the first point, on 
next Thursday, 14th of June." 

Meanwhile, Oloff Stevensen Van Cortlandt, one of 
the deacons, sued the dominie for slander in con- 
nection with the general trouble; and that suit, at 
the suggestion of the governor and his council, was 
referred to Dominie Johannes Megapolensis, Antony 
De Hooges, Laurens Van Heusden, and Adriaen Van 
Donck, who gave this decision, which was approved 
by the governor and his council on June 12, 1G46: 

'^June 11, 1646. — ^Whereas, we, the subscribers, 
have been authorized by the Director-general and 
35 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

Council, in New Netherland, to decide the dispute 
between the Rev. Bogardus and Oloff Stevensen, and 
to reconcile them to each other, as far as possible; 
and whereas, we have carefully examined all the 
docmnents in the case, and being convinced that no 
fault can be found with Oloff Stevensen, acting, as 
he did, under the commission with which he was 
honored by the commander; and inasmuch, also, as 
the Rev. Bogardus has declared that, if he had 
been informed of the existence of that commission, 
he should have had a different opinion of Oloff 
Stevensen than that expressed by him, 

"We therefore unanimously conclude that the dif- 
ference between said disputants is finally and forever 
aniuilled, and that all other difficulties which have 
arisen against the Rev, Bogardus, from this matter, 
are now to be considered as removed, and ought 
not to be revived in future against him. 

"Done in Manhattans, June 11, 1G-4G." 

Then it was that the combatants realized that 
they had had enough, and came to a truce. In the 
following year they sailed together in the ship "Prin- 
cess," and Avere shipwrecked and drowned on the 
coast of England. 

We will speak of the Indian wars again, when 
we may properly give more of their details. 

So many circumstances of interest in the various 
periods are crowded into the little space south of the 
City Hall that it will not be possible to present them 
in exact order. Let us make a short excursion from 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

the Fort, that we may notice some other interesting 
rehcs of the Dutch. While they loved the canal in 
Broad Street they also loved the river front. By the 
thmnping of their weighty pedals, as they tramped 
up and down the water's edge, leading their cows 
the same way, a well beaten track was made, fol- 
lowing the curves and the outhne of the Island, 
which in time became Pearl Street. Reasoning on 
the principles of heredity, there can be no doubt that 




Dutchman eating Clams. 

they dug great quantities of clams on the beach and 
put them to their natural uses; for the New York 
Dutch thrive on clams and take them for a steady 
diet to tliis day. It is an affecting sight to see them 
on the "Al Foster" and the "J. B. Schuyler," at 
the Fishing Banks, cutting clams for bait, lunching 
on clam-chowder, and then carrying home the surplus 
bait for supper. 

As vessels and traders came more and oftener to 
visit the port, and to attend the hog and cattle fairs 
37 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

on Bowling Green, the resources of the governor's 
house became inadequate for the entertainment of 
the dignitaries who attended those functions, and 
accordingly Governor Kieft caused a public-house to 
be erected on Pearl Street, fronting Coenties Slip. 
There a very respectable brick building was erected, 
and it was the first tavern and hotel on Manhattan 
Island. There was nothing in its appearance or in 
its provisions to provoke any such wild nightmares 
as would spread before the dreamy visions of their 
snoring guests pictures of the New Netherlands, the 
Holland, the Waldorf, and the Astoria hotels. The 
brick of which it was constructed were brought 
across the ocean; for then there had not been dis- 
covered the great beds of clay upon which have 
been founded our immense brick industries. Some 
years ago antiquarians sought eagerly for the Dutch 
brick of which Nmnber 1 Broadway was constructed, 
as it was believed to be the last Dutch house; but 
Number 19 Pearl Street and Number 122 Wilham 
Street, and a few other buildings yet standing, were 
built of unported Dutch bricks. The tavern was 
eventually turned into a city hall or stacUhuys, for 
the public business outgrew the resources of the gov- 
ernor's quarters. The gallows, the whipping-post, the 
stocks and the pillorj- were removed from the beach 
and were placed in front of the City Hall, where 
they stood as a terror to evil doers, and where the 
Dutch boys had lots of fun in throwing addled eggs 
at the luckless criminals who were locked in the 
stocks or fastened on the pillory. The Dutch boj's 
38 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

of that period stole and hid the barnyard fruit, so 
that they might always have a loiid-smelhng stock 
with which to pelt the victims of the stocks. 

In front of this building, and within the present 
Coenties Slip, was placed the stadthuys battery, 
which mounted several cannon. 

The ducking stool for scolding women was at the 
water's edge. 

This was a busy place after the City was re- 
taken by the Dutch in 1673. There were present 
the Governor, the Mayor, the Hoofd Schout (high 
sheriff), and the Fiscal (State's attorney). The 
Burgomasters and Schepens added their share to 
the bustle and the enthusiasm; and the building was 
shaken by the rolling around of these official pon- 
derosities, especially when dinner time arrived, and 
all stomachs felt as one, and every pair of legs 
moved as one. They were not permitted to step in 
time, for fear of shaking down the building. An- 
tonio Colve, who had assisted in the capture from 
the English, was governor, and Nicholas Bayard 
was his geheim schryver or secretary of secrets. 
Bayard was also vendu meester or auctioneer, and 
receiver of city revenues. In those days a mayor 
could not get along with the gout. He was con- 
stantly on the go out, and had no time to brew 
tea. He conducted the daily parades of the war- 
riors, and each evening he received from the hoofd 
wagt (head guard) the keys of the City and person- 
ally locked the gates, and stationed the burger ivagt 
(citizen guard) in their places for the night watch. 
39 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

Sometimes he made night tom-s and caught faithless 
watchers "off post," and thej- had speedy punish- 
ment in the stocks. He was up again at dayhght 
and went the roimds with a detail of soldiers, re- 
he^^ng the watchmen, posting the guards, opening 
the gates, and delivering the keys back to the gov- 
ernor in the Fort. He has a worthy successor in 




TheodoTse Koosevelt. 

our present City government, who is not ashamed 
of his Dutch ancestry. 

It is believed by superstitious members of the 
police force that the president of the board goes 
down to Morris Street at regular intervals and con- 
sults the shadow of Mayor Van de "Water, and that 
he has in his service a number of Dutch shades, 
who keep watch for tired and "liquidated" pohce- 
men at night, and put the j^resident on their track. 

Mr. Roosevelt has never denied the truth of this 
40 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

belief; but whenever it is hinted to liim, he lets off 
his terrifying graveyard effect, which has sent the 
cold shivers down the backs of so many dehnquent 
oflScers, and more than ever convinced them of 
the unearthly spell that has seized the old depart- 
ment, di-jdng up the rich streams of buccaneering 
wealth, and Hmiting its energies to the earning of 
only one salary for each ofl&cer, instead of the nu- 
merous salaries that they used to work so hard for. 

The first burgomasters were Cornelis Steenwyck, 
Cornelis Van Ruyven, Johannis Van Brugh, Martin 
Cregier (a royal man, a good soldier and a great 
Indian fighter), Johannis de Peyster and Nicholas 
Bayard. The first schepens were Jeronimus Eb- 
bingh, William Beeckman, Egidus Luyck, Jacob 
Kip, Gelyn Verplanck, Lonraus Van de Spiegel, 
Balthazaer Baj^ard, Francois Rombouts, Stephen Van 
Cortlandt, Adolph Pietersen, Reynier Willemsen, 
Peter Jacobsen, Jean Vigne (the first white man 
born on Manhattan Island), Pieter Stouten burgh and 
Coenraet Ten Ej'ck. 

Here is a translation of the governor's orders to 
Mayor Van de Water : 

*'lst. The mayor shall take good care that in the 
morning the gates are opened with sunrise and locked 
again in the evening at sunset, for which pm-pose 
he shall go to the hoofcl wagt, and there address 
himseK to the commanding officers, and demand to 
conduct him thither at least a sergeant Avith six 
schutters (soldiers), all armed with guns (shooters, 
41 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

of course): with these he shall proceed to the Fort 
to fetch the keys, and return these again there as 
soon as the gates are opened or shut. There he 
shall receive the watchword from the governor, or 
from the officer commanding in his absence; when 
he shall again return to the City Hall and dehver 
the received orders to the sergeant of the guard, to 
be further notified where it ought to be. 

"2d. The mayor shall be present at all military 
tribunals, and have his vote in his turn next the 
youngest ensign. 

"od. The mayor may everj" night make the 
round, give the watchword to the corporal, visit 
the guards, and if there are some absent, make the 
next day his report to the governor. 

"•4th, He shall act in the military council as sec- 
retary', and take care that a correct register is kept 
of all transactions. The record shall remain in his 
care, and he will deliver no copy of it except on 
special orders. 

"12 Jan. 1674. 

"Done at Fort WilHam Hendrick." 

There was great running to and fro between the 
Fort and the Sfadthiiys. The people were filled 
with the importance of their victory over the En- 
glish, they gloried in the fairness of their conquest, 
and they told again and again the story of the 
march of the gallant COO from the apple orchard 
(at the foot of Vesey Street), down to the Fort, 
and of its surrender to them. They desired to estab- 
42 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

lish a sound aud substautial goverument, and were 
impressed with their dangers from Indians and New 
Englanders — almost equallj^ dreaded. It is doubtful 
whether New York was ever so thoroughly and pa- 
ternall}^ governed as it was during the few years of 
the second Dutch domination. 

The City lay almost entirely east of the Heere 
Strasse (Broadway), and was all south of the Cin- 
gle ("Wall Street); and there must have been a con- 
stant procession of the public business — embodied in 
strangely active blunderbuss officials — through Stone 
{Brower) and Pearl (Perel) Street, between the two 
official points. We are able to locate the Stadthuys 
definitely at the corner now occupied by the building 
Number 73 Pearl Street. Don't be deceived by the 
old iron lamp frame projecting from the side wall. 
It is indeed a relic of old days, but not of Dutch 
days. 

This site illustrates the remarkable succession of 
nationaHties which may be seen everywhere in the 
lower part of the Island. The building is now oc- 
cupied by Boultbec &; Contoupolo, importers of Egyp- 
tian cigarettes, and by a German firm, which, hav- 
ing little patience with American antiquarians, has 
a sign in the window warning away all persons that 
have no business there — and they mean it strictly in 
a commercial sense too. 

"THIS MEANS YOU." 

As we look out over Jeannette Park, which com- 
memorates heroic deeds of American explorers, we 
43 



THE AMERICAX METROPOLIS 



see the spots vv^liicli were occupied by the batteries 
and their guns, the stocks and other instruments of 
justice; but in the rush of traffic, the evidences of 
immense business movements, and the hm-ry of the 
people, who show very httle of the stohd and phleg- 
matic dispositions which once were so much in evi- 
dence, we begin to wonder whether we have read 
these old stories in histories or in romances. But 
Pearl Street is there, wind- 
ing, as of old, and none 
the worse for having been 
called Queen Street by 
Englishmen ; and Coenties 
^ Slip preserves the names 
and memories of the quaint- 
est and honestest couple 
of the good old times, who 
there loved and lived, and 
raised their virtuous prog- 
eny, gave their names to 
the spot, and, having done what they could for 
New Amsterdam's virtue and fame, passed away. 
Coenrat Ten Eyck and his wife, "Antye Ten Eyck" 
— Coen and Antye's Slip — Coenties Slip. How lov- 
ingly the last syllable of Coen^s name embraces the 
first syllable of Anfye^s. What belonged to each, 
belonged to the other. United in life, their memo- 
ries are still Hnked, though mouthed by a restless, 
heedless multitude, few of whom give a passing 
thought to these exemplars of home living and home 
loving, which, after all, make a State great, and 
44 




r^-S^ 



Coen and Antye Embracing. 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

are more needed in New York to-day than any- 
other social force. 

The Dutch were as great for "good cheer" as 
they were for trade; and it cannot be that this old 
tavern site is far removed from the cheese and the 
ale, and the round of schnapps. No; as close as pos- 
sible to this old inn, usurped indeed by Boultbec and 
Contoupolo, is— not Delmonico's — no indeed — but a 
plain, popular and . populous beer saloon, where may 
be found toilers, adventurers, seafarers, and an oc- 
casional business man, who quaff the most majestic 
schooners of beer that can be found in the Me- 
*^^ropohs. It is a noble sight to see a couple of 
Dutch sailors irrigating themselves from a pan- of 
those broad-bottomed schooners in this travelers' rest 
and calling for more. The Dutch mania for canals 
is denied opportunity for expression on New York 
Island, except via the throat; and most consistently 
do the offshoots of Holland apply thamselves to the 
joyous task of making the most of their opportuni- 
ties. Certain descendants of the Dutch affect an ap- 
petite for champagne; but the canal instinct gener- 
ally lands them under the table. Beer is the drink 
for Dutchmen, because it floods more and better, 
and at less cost, and with less wear and tear than 
any other. It was in this neighborhood that the dis- 
cussion waxed high, some years ago, whether lager 
beer would intoxicate. A storekeeper had in his em 
ploy a Dutchman of phenomenal capacity (in a bibu- 
lous sense). He bet a customer that his man could 
drink a pailful of beer without getting drunk. The 
45 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

man was called and was handed a pail. He looked 
at it dubiously, and said he would go out and think 
about it. He came back and said he could drink it; 
and he made good his word. Afterward his em- 
ployer asked him why he did not take the beer at 
once. The answer was, "Veil, Mister Schmeet, I 
bin sick a hddle — 1 tidn't know vat I could do. I 
vent out and trinked a pail, and den I knowed 
I could do it, and I did dood it, ain't it?" 

A friend of ours employs a great many men in 
his piano factory. Recently he gave them a picnic. 
In the afternoon he noticed that a giant Dutchman 
was pecuharly happy. He called him and asked him 
what kind of a time he was having. His answer 
was: "Mr. S., this is the first time I ever could 
say I had enough to drink." — "How many glasses 
of beer have you had?" asked Mr. S. — The answer 
came: "A hundi*ed; and now 1 tinks I shtop.'*' 

One of the first pieces of work done by the 6wr- 
go masters and schepens at the" Stadthuys in 1673 
was the making of a list of the principal citizens 
and the value of their estates; and here they are, 
with the richest and most redolent, if not fragrant, 
names in America : 

Guilders Guilders 

Adolph Petersen (schepeu) 1,000 Adrian Viuceut 1,000 

Andrias Jochems 300 Abel Hardenbroeck 1,000 

Albert Bosch .500 Asser Leevey (he was the 

Abram Carmar 300 real original Levy: He- 

Abraliam .lansen (carpen- brew, butcher, litigant).. 2,500 

ter) tm Anna Van Borssum 2,000 

Abraham Verplanck 300 Barent Coersen 3,5f0 

Abraham Lnbl)ersen 300 Balthasar Bayard (sche- 

Allard Anthony (notary pen) 1,500 

public) 1,000 Balthasar de Haerts 2,(K)0 

Anthony Jansen Van Sale 1,000 Boole Koeloffsen 600 

AuthouyDe 1,000 Barnadtts Hasfelt 300 

40 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 



Guilders 

Bay Croe Svelt 1,000 

Claes Lock 600 

Claes Bordingth 1,500 

,Carsten Leurseii 5,000 

xjCornelis Steeuwyck (cap- 
tain of infantry, coun- 
selor of state, etc.) 50,000 

Cornelis Van Hooren 18,000 

Cornells Jansen Van Hoo- 
ren 500 

Cornells Chooper 5,000 

Cornelis Van Borssum 8,000 

Cornelis Direksen (from 

westveen) 1,300, 

Cornelis Barentse Vander 

Cuyll 400 

Coenraet Ten Eyck (of Co- 

eiities Slip) 5,000 

Christopher Hooglaud 

(schepen) 5,000 

Corel Van Brugge 1,000 

David Wessels 800 

David Jochems 1,000 

Dirck Sniet (of Smet, 

Smith, or William St.).. 2,000 
Dirck Van Cleef (of Van 

Clyfif or Cliff St.) 1,500 

Dirck Wiggerse 800 

Dirck Claes.se (potter) 700 

Daniel Hendricks 500 

Aegidius Luyk (rector of 

Latin school) 5,000 

Egbert Wouterse 400 

Evert Pieterse 2,000 

Evert Wesselse Kuyper... 300 

Evert Duyckingh 1,600 

Ephraim Harmans (Secre- 
tary to the sessions of 
the schout burgomaster 

and schepens) 1,000 

Elizabeth Bedloo 1,000 

• Elizabeth Driseus 2,000 

Ffrancois Rombouts (sche- 
pen, afterward Mayor).. 5,000 
FfrederickArentse(turner) 400 

Ff redrick Gisberts 400 

Guiliane Verplauck (sche- 
pen) 5,000 

Guiliam de Honioud (a 

prominent Huguenot). ... 400 

Gabriel Minville (schepen) 10,000 

Garret Gullevever 500 

Mary Loockermans 2,000 

Harmanus Burger 400 

Harmanus Van Borsum . . . 600 

Hendrick Kip, sen 300 

Hendrick Bosch 400 

Hendrick Gillesse (shoe- 
maker) 300 

Hendrick We.ssels Smith.. 1,200 
Hendrick Willemse (back- 
er) 3,000 



Hendrick Van Dyke. 

Hans Kierstede 

Hartman Wessels... 
Harnien Smecmar... 
Henry Bresier. 



Guilders 
300 
. . 2,000 
300 
300 
300 



Isaacq Van Viecq 1,500 

Isaac Van Tricht (in his 

brother's house) 200 

/Isack de Foreest 1,500 

Johannes Van Brugh (bur- 
gomaster) 1,400 

Johannis de Peyster (bur- 
gomaster) 15,000 

Jeronimus Ebbingh (sche- 
pen) 30,000 

Jacob Kip (presiding sche- 
pen) 4,000 

Jacob de Naers 5,000 

Jacob Leumen 300 

Jacob Abrahamse( shoe- 
maker) 2,500 

Jacob Teuniss Key 8,000 

v' Jacob Leyslaer (Leisler)... 15,000 

Jacob Varravanger 8,000 

Jacobus Van de Water 

(mayor and "auditeur"). 3,500 

Jan Meynder de Karman.. 300 

Jan Hendrick Van Bommel 1,500 

Jan Dirckse Meyer 600 

Jan Van Bree Steede 500 

Jan Herberdingh 2,000 

Jan Spiegelaer 500 

Jan Jansen (carpenter) 300 

Jan Reay (pipe-maker) 300 

Jan Coely Smet 1,300 

Jan Schakerley 1,400 

Jan Joosten (barquier) 3,500 

Jan Vigne (schepen) 1,000 

Junan Blanck 1,600 

Jeremias Jansen Hagenaer 400 

Jonas Bartels 3,000 

John Lawrence (merchant) 40,000 

James Matheus 1,000 

Laurens Jansen Smet 300 

Laurens Van de Spiegel . . . 6,000 

Laurens Hoist 300 

Luycas Andries (barquier) 1,500 

Lammert Huybertse Moll. 300 

Luyckes Tienhoven 600 

Marten Kregier (schepen). 2,000 

Marten Janseu Meyer 500 

Matheys de Haert 12,000 

Nicholas de Meyer (chronic 

office holder) 50,000 

Nicholas Bayard 1,000 

Nicholas du Puy 600 

Nicholas Jansen (backer). . 700 
Olof. Stevensen Van Cort- 

landt 45,000 

Peter Jacobs Marius 5,000 

Peter Nys 500 

jPeter de Riemer 800 



47 



THE AMEEICAN METROPOLIS 

Guilders Guilders 

Pieter Van de Water 400 Siboiat Claess 500 

Paulus Richard 5,000 S'onwert Olpheresse 600 

PauluR Tureq 300 Thomas Leurs 6,000 

Peter Jansen Mesier 300 Thomas Louwerss (backer) 1,000 

Philip Johns 600 \Vilhelm Beeckman (bur- 

ReynlerWillemse (backer) 5,000 gomaster) 3,000 

Stephanns Vail Cortlandt Wander Wessels 600 

(schepen) 5.000 William Van der Schneven 300 

Simon Jantz Koraeyu 1,200 

Notice the beautiful and practical alphabetical ar- 
rangement of these names; Just how many Cornel- 
ises, Dircks, Hendricks, Jans and Pieters there were, 
could be told in a moment. The surnames didn't 
count. 

There were some curious trials of criminal charges 
at the Stadthuys on this corner, and the punishments 
were very severe. Frequently men and women were 
executed for theft. Sometimes torture by the rack 
and chains was used to extort confessions. In May, 
1661, Marten Van Weert was threatened with the 
rack, and confessed a long list of crimes. His pun- 
ishment was a scourging with rods in a closed cham- 
ber and ten years' banishment. Mesaack Martenzen 
was tortured in the same year, and finally confessed 
that he stole cabbages, fowls and turkeys. He was 
fastened to the whipping-post, severely whipped, and 
banished for ten years. In 1672, the hangman, Ben 
Johnson, was convicted of robbery, and would have 
been sentenced to be hung, except that he could not 
hang himself, and there was nobody else to do the 
job. His punishment was thirtj'-nine stripes, inflicted 
at the whipping-post, the cutting off of one ear, and 
banishment. This interesting case divided the keen 
interest of the inhabitants with another curious inci- 
48 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

dent, which is recited in the "Historical Magazine" 
in these words: 

"About twelve days since, a disaster befell a 
young man in this town, by name one Mr. Wright, 
a one-eyed man, & a muff -maker by trade, who 
drinking hard upon rum one evening, w^^ some 
ffriends, begann a health of a whole halfe pint at 
a draught, w*''^ hee had noe sooner done but downee 
hee fell and never rose more, w*''* prodigy may teach 
us aU to have a care how wee drink, in imitation 
of that good old lesson, Foelix quern faciunv, Sec. 
This young man's untimely (end) doth somewhat 
parallel that person in yo*" letter, who you write was 
killed with a sley, the w^^ in hke manner could 
but strike a great amazem* into all that heard it, 
by wch wee may see that though there is but one 
way of coming into the world, yet there is a thou- 
sand wayes of goeing out of it." 

Severe punishments continued for many years, and 
were frequently ordered by the judges who sat in 
the more modern and elevated court at the City 
Hall on the site of the Sub-treasury. The New 
York "Mercury," of September, 1756, reported that, 
"This day, between the hours of nine and eleven, 
Mrs. Johanna Christian Young, and another lady, 
her associate from Philadelphia, being found guilty 
of grand larceny, at the Mayor's Court, last week, 
are to be set on two chairs exalted on a cart, ^^^th 
their heads and faces uncovered, and to be carted 
from the City Hall, to that part of the Broadway 
near the new English Church (Trinity), from thence 
C-i 49 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

down Maiden Lane, then down the Fly to the White- 
hall, thence to the Church aforesaid, and then to 
the Whipping Post (Broad and Wall Streets), where 
each of them are to receive 39 lashes, to remain 
in gaol for one week, and then to depart the citj^" 

The New York "Gazette," in January, 1768, 
states that "John Clayton Morris was committed in 
the Supreme Court for sheep stealing, but inasmuch 
as he had granted to him the benefit of the clergy 
he was only burned in the hand." The "Chronicle," 
of September 14, 1769, recites the administering of 
fifteen lashes to William Smith and Daniel Martin for 
steahng fiddle-strings; and Richard Ely, convicted of 
fraud, "was exalted on a wooden horse in a tri- 
umphal car, with labels on his breast; after which 
he was conducted to the public whipping-post, where 
he received a proper chastisement." In the same 
year John Jubeart was executed for passing coun- 
terfeit money. According to the New York "Ga- 
zette," of Noverber 4, 1773, Elizabeth Donohough 
was convicted of picking Mr. Van Gelder's pocket 
in the Fly Market, and a negro named "Neptune" 
was convicted of burglar}', and they were sentenced 
to be hanged. 

"At a Supreme Court of Judicature held at the 
City Hall of the City of New York (Wall St.), the 
fourth of December, 1737, were presented for sen- 
tence David Wallace and David Willson, having at 
the last Court been con%'icted of a cheat, in pass- 
ing some bills of credit of the Pro^-ince of New 
Jersey, were now brought to the bar, and received 
50 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

the following sentence; viz., That the said David 
Wallace and David Willson do stand in the pillory 
between the hours of ten and eleven in the fore- 
noon of the same day (13th inst.), and after that 
be placed in a cart, so as to be publickl}^ seen, with 
halters about their necks, and carted thro' the most 
publick streets in this city; and then be brought to 
the public Whipping- Post, and there David Walhs, 
on his bare back, to receive thirty-nine stripes, and 
David Willson twenty-eight stripes. And within 
some convenient time after, the Sheriff shall deliver 
said prisoners at the Ferr}'- House in Kings County, 
and on the third Tuesday in January next they shall 
be set on the pillory, and then Walhs to receive at 
Flatbush thirty-nine stripes, and Willson twenty-eight. 
Then they shall be conveyed to Jamaica, in Queens 
County, and there, on the fourth Tuesday in Feb- 
ruar}', to stand on the pillory, and afterwards each 
of them to receive the same number of stripes. Then 
to be conveyed to Westchester, and there, on the 
fourth Tuesday in March, to stand on the pillory, 
and then at the Whipping- Post Wallace to receive 
twenty stripes on the bare back, and Willson ten. 
After which, at the end of King's Bridge, they 
shall be dehvered to the High Sheriff of the City 
of New York, and from that time, Wallace to re- 
main in prison six months, and Willson three months. 
And then each to be discharged, paying their fees!" 
Some very interesting resolutions of the City Coim- 
cil were passed at the Stadthuys. Here is one in 
1677 : 

51 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

"Query — Whether attornej's are thought to be use- 
ful to plead in Courts or not. Answer — It is thought 
not. Whereupon, Resolved and Ordered, That plead- 
ing attorneys be no longer allowed to practice in 
the government, excepting in the pending cases." 

This resolution of 1U91 contains a little picture of 
the City below Wall Street. ''Ordered, That the 
poysonous and stinking weeds within this City be- 
fore e"\'ery one's door l)e forthwith pluckt up upon the 
forfeiture of three shillings for the neglect thereof." 

It was also *' Ordered, That Top-knot Betty and 
another person and her children be provided for as 
objects of charity and four shillings a week allowed." 

In 1700 it was enacted that Popish priests en- 
tering the colony to entice Indians from their alle- 
giance be executed, and in the same year it was 
''Ordered, That the Mayor provide fire wood for 
bonfires on the fourth and fifth days of this in- 
stant, month of November, being the birthda}^ of 
our sovereign Lord King William, and gunpowder 
treason" (the origin of our election-night bonfires), 
"and that the Mayor pay to the Rev. Wilham Ve- 
sey the sum of five pounds for preaching a sermon 
before the Court on the 14th of October last." 

These specimens show how human were our early 
New Yorkers, and they illustrate their simplicity — 
the Dutch spirit appearing even in the preparations 
for the English holiday. 

The first regular public school was held at this 
building while it was the Stadt Herberg (the tav- 
ern). After it became the Stadthui/s the most im- 
52 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

portant affairs of the colony were discussed there. 
There, too, during the conflict between Governor 
Leisler, who held the Fort in the name of the peo- 
ple, and Bayard, who claimed to represent kingly 
authority, the heavy rain of artillery fell, Leisler fir- 
ing from the Fort upon the troops stationed there. 
The speed with which those iron messengers trav- 
eled was a revelation to the schepens and burgo- 
masters. 

In the rear of the Stadthuys was Slyk-steeg 
(Mire Lane), where Coenraet Ten Eyck's tannery 
was, and where Antye no doubt had some share in 
the work (later Mill Street). 

In the rear of Mire Lane was De Warmoes 
Straet (Street of Vegetables), later Garden Street 
and Exchange Place. 

Let us retrace om- steps through the road so 
thoroughly traveled by the Dutch officials, to the site 
of Fort Amsterdam, and from that spot we may see 
the place where the toilers were laid away after 
they had completed their work. The ancient grave- 
yard was on Broadway, at Morris Street. The old 
City laid much lower than our present street levels, 
and the graves remain under the accumulations and 
the filling of later days; but not so deep as to 
bury the influence of the worthy people that were 
interred there. Their bones are still there, as was 
well proven when the excavations were made for 
the present buildings. West of Broadway, running 
to the water's edge, at Greenwich Street, were the 
governor's gardens, extending to Wall Street. The 
53 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

first fann of the Dutch AYest India Company ex- 
tended from Wall to Hudson Street, running mostly 
west of Broadway; and that farm was well occupied 
b}- Governor Van Twiller, who, while he made sorry 
work of governing the colony, never lost sight of 
his own interests. Lacking in all of the heroic 
qualities which distinguished Peter Stuyvesant, he 
managed to steer his own bark safely through the 
troubled political seas, and to enjoy life. 

On the Fort was performed the first slave labor 
in New York. From 1G30 to 1635 the Company's 
negroes were constantly- employed in improving the 
Fort and building windmills for the grinding of 
grain. In 1G41, inside of the Fort, the first hang- 
ing took place. There had been a fight between 
negroes and one of them had been killed. Six were 
suspected of having committed the crime, and they 
were put to torture, and confessed that they all had 
participated in it. The idea of executing six valu- 
able slaves horrified the governor and his advisers. 
They had not yet got used to wholesaling. It was 
decided that one should suffer for all, and the lot 
fell upon the biggest man of the six, who stood 
head and shoulders above all the people in the Fort. 
It is strange that they did not draw lots again and 
select the smallest man; but they determined to exe- 
cute this big fellow, and so the gallows was strength- 
ened and the rope was doubled, and every arrange- 
ment was made for a thorough hanging; but the 
contortions and the weight of the poor negro, with 
the excitement and the inexperience of the execu- 
54 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

tioners, were too much for the gallows, and it broke 
down and dropped him on the ground. Then it was 
decided that sufficient punishment had been inflicted 
for the killing of a darky, and the man was re- 
leased. 

From the Fort, in the same year, was promul- 
gated the first excise law, which was designed to 
prevent disorder during church time and during the 
late night; and there was as much outcry against 
that moderate excise system as there is in these 
days against the Raines Law. 

In this year Governor Kieft started the annual 
fairs for the sale of cattle and hogs upon Bowling 
Green, which became the great social events of the 
year, and which, as we have noticed, made neces- 
sary the building of the tavern at Coenties Shp. 

The Indian wars of Governor Kieft 's administra- 
tion caused more excitement in and around the Fort 
than any other event besides its capture by the En- 
ghsh. The people knew something of Indian depre- 
dations, and the}' had a wholesome dread of the 
savages; but Kieft was proud, fearless and vindic- 
tive; and, against the advice of his counselors, he 
insisted upon chastising the Indians generally, and 
wherever he could find them, for the bad acts of 
individuals. \Yhen the voices of his counselors would 
not be hushed by arguments, he silenced them by 
an absolute order, and took his own methods for 
dealing with the natives. Governor Kieft became fe- 
rocious as the problem pressed him harder, and in 
1643 he was guilty of a dehberate act of treachery, 
55 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

which cannot be palhated by any plea of necessity, 
and which was contrary to the earnestly expressed de- 
sires of nearly all who could speak to him. 

On the site of the present Equitable Building, 
then the farm of Jan Jansen Dam, while the gov- 
ernor and three sycophantic friends were enjoying 
themselves over Shrovetide pancakes and other dain- 
ties, Kieft resolved to massacre a whole village of 
Indians who had been assailed by other tribes and 
had fled to New Amsterdam for protection. The de- 
fenseless and unsuspecting Indians were encamped at 
two places; some were in the neighborhood of the 
bluff at Hoboken, where the Stevens Castle has stood 
these many years, and others were at Corlears Hook, 
on the East River. Despite the pleas of Dominie 
Bogardus and of the military officers, the governor 
ordered the soldiers to surprise the sleeping Indians; 
and they butchered them as though they were ani- 
mals. Many Indians were driven over the precipice 
on which the Stevens Castle now stands in its sweet 
and peaceful environment, and were maimed and 
killed by falling on the rocks below. A historian 
tells us that an Indian and his squaw, who were 
not in camp with their brethren, heard of the as- 
sault on the village, and supposing the assailants to 
be hostile savages, rushed to the gate of the Fort 
and begged Captain De Vries to admit them; but 
that he dared not let them in, and gave them di- 
rections for flight, rather than have them subjected 
to the "mercy" of Governor Kieft. Through the 
portals of the Fort, near Number 4 Bowhng Green, 
56 



NE^V YORK CITY LIFE 

the returning soldiers marched, bearing horrid tro- 
phies of their success. 

Then the Indians rose with one accord; and they 
were in the right; but hard it was upon those who 
had no share in Kieft's iniquity. Some of those 
who suffered had vainly protested against the per- 
fidious act. Captain De Vries had the reward of 
his kindness to the two fugitives, in the sparing of 
his place in Westchester County from destruction, 
through their intercession. The shrieks of women 
and children rang out daily and nightly, and told 
of the terrible work of Indian vengeance. Farms 
were abandoned, and the settlers fled to the Fort 
for salvation. They poured in through that historic 
gateway until the place overflowed. Many of them 
camped under the walls of the Fort, and, recover- 
ing from their panic and calamity, built new houses 
and helped to tangle up the streets of the infant 
City, so that our surveyors and street oflScials have 
never since succeeded in untangling them. The peo- 
ple were all but ready to massacre the governor, 
who, in a moment of fear, declared that Dam and 
Adriaensen and Planck, who were with him at the 
Shrovetide boose aforementioned, were responsible for 
the war. Adriaensen tried to kill Governor Kieft in 
his room in the Fort, but failed, and was deported 
to Holland. Some of the people made their way to 
Fort Lee, where grew up a very respectable Dutch 
community, which survives to the present day. In 
those days every Dutchman was wide awake. There 
was no time for sleeping or blowing nicotine clouds; 
57 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

and some of the substantial New Yorkers of this 
day may owe their sturdiness to the conflicts with 
the Indians in Kieft's and Stuyvesant's times. The 
massacre of 1643 was contemplated in 1641, at which 
time the governor and his council submitted to cer- 
tain leading citizens the following questions: 

"1. If it is not just that the murder lately com- 
mitted by a savage upon Claes Smits be avenged; 
and in case the Indians will not surrender the mur- 
derer, if it is not just to destroy the whole village 
to which he belongs? 

"2. When and in what manner this should be 
executed? 

"3. By whom it can be effected?" 

And received these answers: 

"To the first. They deem it every way expedi- 
ent that the murder should be avenged, at such time 
as the opportunity, under God, shall offer best ad- 
vantages. In the meantime, preparations should be 
made, and the Director-general is requested to pro- 
vide a sufficient number of coats-of-mail for those 
who go out. 

"To the second. Trade and intercourse should be 
kept up with them as usual until the time comes. 
All men to be on their guard, but none to adopt 
hostile measures. "When the Indian warriors are ab- 
sent on their hunting expeditions, then we may di- 
vide ourselves in two parties, one to land at Rapela, 
and the other at Wechquaeskeck, and take them by 
58 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

surprise on both sides. The Director to employ as 
many negroes as he can spare, and arm them with 
a tomahawk and small half-pike. 

"To the third. That, as the people recognize no 
other head than the Director-general, therefore they 
prefer that he should lead the van, while they, on 
their part, offer their persons to follow his steps and 
to obey his commands. 

"They deem it further advisable that the Direc- 
tor should send once more, or twice, or even thrice, 
a shallop to demand the surrender of the murderer, 
and that this should be done in a manner of osten- 
sible good understanding, and for the furtherance of 
justice merely, thus luring the savages into a sense 
of security, without using threats." 

The treacherous spirit of the governor and his 
immediate advisers appears in the answers. They 
all resolved to keep the matter a secret. 

The order for the massacre was in these words: 

^'Februanj 25, 1643. — We authorize Maryn An- 
driesen, at his request, with his associates, to attack 
a party of savages skulking behind Corlear's Hook 
or plantation, and act with them in such a manner 
as they shall deem proper, and the time and oppor 
tunity will permit. 

"Sergeant Rudolf is commanded to take a troop 

of soldiers, and lead them to Pavonia, there to 

drive away and destroj' the savages lying near Jan 

Evertsen's, but to spare, as much as possible, their 

59 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

wives and children, and take them prisoners. Hans 
Stein, who is well acquainted with the haunts of 
the Indians, is to go with him. The exploit should 
be executed at night, with the greatest caution and 
prudence. God bless the expedition." 

Maryn Andriesen (or Adriaensen) was the same 
man who secured the governor's drunken consent to 
his bloodthirsty proposition. Hans Stein had pre- 
viously been punished for improper conduct with a 
squaw, by being reduced from corporal to the ranks 
and being compelled to ride the wooden horse. The 
governor made a defense of his own conduct, which 
was published, in this language: 

^'■February 27, 1643. Whereas, the insolence of 
the savages roving all around us has within the 
last two or three years risen to such a height, not- 
withstanding the kindness continually bestowed by us 
upon them, under our wings, when they were per- 
secuted by their enemies, yet their malice continually 
increased. 

"They insolently destroyed many of the goats, 
hogs, tjows and horses belonging to our people, and 
finally set their hands to destroy Christian people, 
and at various times several innocent persons were 
murdered under the cloak of friendship, so that no 
inhabitant felt himself safe in his own house, and 
much less might he in security cultivate his own 
fields. 

"And whereas, we left nothmg untried to per- 
60 




WOODEN STATUE OF GOVERNOR STUYVESANT ON BROADWAY. 

New York, Vol. One, p. 66. 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

suade them to surrender the murderers, but all in 
vain, but our efforts seemed rather to increase their 
insolence, and therefore it was, in the course of last 
5^ear, concluded to send a body of men among the 
savages to appease the blood of our murdered ones. 
But the expedition was fruitless, having been misled 
in the darkness of the night; however, it spread 
terror among them, so that they sued for peace, 
which was listened to provided they surrendered the 
murderer of Claes Rademacker. But nothing came 
of it; on the contrary, going on further with their 
wanton injuries, they killed Gerrit Van Voorst, liv- 
ing behind the Col (near Newark Bay), while he 
was roofing his house; and they also killed an En- 
glishman in their own village, and refused either to 
deliv^er up, or to punish the murderer. 

"Indeed, it now seems to appear as if they really 
had the opinion that we only landed here to become 
their vassals, as they have recently approached with- 
in half a mile of the fort in squads of fifty to a 
hundred men. Then crossed over the river to Pa- 
vonia (Jersey City), leaving behind them a suspi- 
cion that they were plotting to commit, as they 
boasted, a general massacre here, as had been act- 
ually committed in Virginia and other places. 

"We were thus roused to seek for justice and 
revenge for Christian blood, for God would not per- 
mit us to endure their indignities any longer. 

"In this mind, some persons, delegated by the 
people, petitioned us to be allowed to take revenge, 
while those savages were within our reach, appar- 
61 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

ently delivered in our hands by Divine Providence. 
"We entertained an aversion to bring the country 
into a condition of uproar, and pointed out to those 
persons the consequences to result from their design, 
particularly with regard to those whose dwellings 
were situated in exposed places, as our forces were 
too few to attempt to defend every house with a 
sufficient number of soldiers, and we also presented 
to them other considerations. They, however, per- 
sisted in their desire, and told us that if we refused 
our consent, the blood would come upon our own 
heads; and we finally found ourselves obhged to ac- 
cede to their wishes, and give them the assistance 
of our soldiers. And these latter killed a consider- 
able number, as did also the militia on their side. 

"A party of the savages who escaped, assaulted 
the exposed and distant dwellings, in every direc- 
tion, burned four houses with all the contents and 
the stock, killed ten Christians. Upon our advanc- 
ing, however, with our soldiers, they were compelled 
to retreat, and further excesses were prevented. But 
our soldiers wei*e too few to defend every place, and, 
considering the state the country was in, we thought 
it advisable to take as many of the farmers as of- 
fered themselves into our service. Indeed, they 
threatened that otherwise they would remove to the 
iSTorth, as it was in vain to attempt planting here 
until the heathens were curbed. This accomplished, 
every man might cultivate his land in peace. We 
engaged them therefore in our service for one or 
two months, and we do not at all doubt that in 
02 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

the meantime we shall obtain a salutary peace. Our 
inhabitants are separated from each other at consid- 
erable distances, over a space of ten miles east and 
west, and seven miles north and south, from which 
it will be seen that we cannot provide for the pro- 
tection of all with such scanty means as we here 



The awful retaliation of the Indians was felt so 
severely that a proclamation for prayer and fasting 
was made for the 4th of March, 1643. 

"Whereas we continue to suffer much trouble and 
loss from these heathen, and many of the inhabi- 
tants find their lives and property in jeopardy, which 
no doubt is the consequence of our manifold sins; 
Therefore, the Director and Council have deemed it 
proper that next Wednesday, being the fourth of 
March, shall be holden a general fast and prayer, 
for which every individual is solicited to prepare 
himself, that we may all, with true penitence and 
incessant prayer, seek God's blessed mercy, and not 
give occasion through our iniquities that God's holy 
name may be contemned by the heathens." 

The citizens whom Kieft called on for advice in 
1641, concerning the murder of poor old Claes Smits 
at Deutal Bay (Turtle Bay, about 47th Street and 
East River), numbered twelve. They were Captain 
De Vries, Jacques Bentyn, Jan Dam, Hendrick Jan- 
sen, Jacob Stoffelsen, Maryn Adriaensen, Abram 
Molenaer, Frederick Lubbertsen, Jochem Pietersen, 
63 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

Gerrit Dircksen, George Rapelje and Abram Planck. 
They were the first men chosen by the people and 
representing them, whose deliberations entered into 
the governing of New Amsterdam. Their advice as 
a body was never given for war, although Dam, 
Adriaensen and Planck, as individuals, humored the 
governor and aided in his preparations in 1G43, and 
Adriaensen himself led the attacking party at Cor- 
lear's Hook. The governor's course, in trying to 
throw the blame for the Indian war upon these 
three men, estranged them from him, and the whole 
body joined in sending accounts of Kieft's misgov- 
ernment to Holland. They held many meetings 
against his orders, and were generally spoken of as 
the "Twelve Men," and as such became famous. 
They were dissolved bj' Kieft's edict; but it be- 
came necessary for him again to counsel with the 
people, and the ''Eight Men'^ who were chosen 
(Jochem Pietersen Kuyter, Jan Jansen Dam, Pa- 
rent Dircksen, Abraham Pietersen, Thomas Hall, 
Gerrit Wolfertsen and Cornells Melyn) were harder 
on the governor than were the "Twelve Men." 
The scourge of war in Kieft's administration was 
the cause of the planting of the seeds of repre- 
sentative government in New York. 

With all of his hard lessons Governor Kieft coidd 
not acquire a peaceful disposition, and again, in lG4i, 
he sent out a company of soldiers to anuihilate the 
Canarsie Indians. Thej' carried out their instruc- 
tions, and returned with prisoners, two of whom 
were inhumanly hacked, stabbed and beheaded, one 
64 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

at the Fort and the other in Beaver Street. Again, 
Kieft sent his soldiers to punish Indians in Connecti- 
cut, and they succeeded, surprising and burning the 
village of the savages and driving the fleeing In- 
dians into the flames. A third horrible procession 
of victory passed through the portal near Number 
4 Bowling Green — the soldiers carrying the heads of 
Indians on their spears. All of these moves by 
Kieft were requited with double vengeance by the 
Indians. The people became more and more dis- 
tressed, and the little settlement trembled for exist- 
ence. Finally the principal citizens (the Eight Men) 
managed to elude the governor's suspicious eyes, and 
they sent to the West India Company a full state- 
ment of their troubles. The Company ordered the 
return of Kieft; but it was a long time before their 
official summons arrived. Struggling resolutely with 
the difficulties which surrounded him, the governor 
succeeded in patching up a peace with the Indians, 
and the colonists once more spread out over the 
country. 

The wars ended with a treaty of peace in Au- 
gust, 1645, which was signed by the governor and 
the members of his council, and by the Indian 
chiefs Orataney, of the Hackingsacks ; Sessekeninck 
and Willem, of Tappan and Rechgewanank; Pach- 
am and Pennekeck, of Majanwettenin ; Marechawick 
and Nyack and Aepjen, for the Wappinecks, Wech- 
quaesqueecks, Sintsings, and Kicktawanks. 

The treaty conference was held and the treaty 
was executed on the open ground of Bowling Green, 
65 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

which was used for similar purposes on several oc- 
casions. 

1647 brought to New Amsterdam the greatest of 
the Dutch governors, Peter Stuyvesant; a man as 
haughty, impatient of advice, self-willed and obsti- 
nate as Kieft was, but possessing better judgment 
and a truer sense of right. Stuyvesant gave to the 
people a paternal government, under which their 
safety and prosperity were the great objects of gu- 
bernatorial solicitude; but he had no sympathy with 
those who thought that the people should have some- 
thing to say about their government. When he ar- 
rived, the guns of the little fort were loaded and 
fired over and over again, until the walls shook 
with the concussion, and the tiny Citj^ was envel- 
oped with smoke. He hobbled through the gate, 
impressing the people with every thud of his wooden 
leg. They were proud of the brave soldier who had 
fought and bled in his countrj-'s service. Stuyve- 
sant never lost sight of the commercial side of his 
position; but the longer he lived in New York the 
more he loved it, and when he could no longer 
fight the battles of New Amsterdam against foreign 
invaders, instead of returning to his native shore 
he exiled himself in the wilderness of Manhattan 
Island, which he could not desert. 

The idea of popular government had taken root 
among the people, and, though Stuyvesant grumbled, 
they continued to select men to aid and advise him. 
Oloff S. Van Cortlandt was a prominent member of 
this body. He had a farm on the west side of 
G(J 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

Broadway, and his memory is perpetuated in Cort- 
landt Street. During Stuj^vesant's administration the 
iirst law3'er appeared. His name was Dirck Van 
ScheUuyne. He got a Hcense in Holland to practice 
in New York. There was no other lawyer for him 
to fight, and consequently there were no suits. He 
should have brought another lawyer with him. He 
performed the functions of a notary public in a 
store, selling groceries for his rent; and finally he 
lost heart and migrated up the State. The succes- 
sors of Yan ScheUuyne are doing better. 

Those who opposed Stuj'vesant were, notably, the 
vice-directors, Yan Dincklagen and Vander Donck 
(who owned the site of the City of Yonkers). A 
great event transpired in Stuyvesant's time; to wit, 
the establishment of the City government. Stuyve- 
sant yielded to the popular demands, and on Feb- 
ruary 2, 1653, he proclaimed the birth of the City 
and named its first officers; and the guns of the 
Fort boomed out a noisy approval. The City fath- 
ers undertook their offices with becoming diligence 
and rectitude, and thej- set a good example to the 
people bj' assembling regularly on Sundays at the 
City Hall (at Coenties Slip) to go to worship. Form- 
ing into procession, with bell-ringers preceding them, 
and carrying their insignia of office, they proceeded 
in all the pomp and sublimity of poor mortals to 
attend the services of the church in the Fort. 

One of these early officials was Captain Martin 
Kregier. He opened a tavern (near Number 9 Broad- 
way), which became a famous resort. "William Beek- 
67 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

man was one of the schepens, and he was such a 
remarkable man that both of his names have been 
preserved to fame in Wilham Street and Beekman 
Street. He prospered and bought the beautiful estate 
at Corlears Hook, which, as we all know, was origi- 
nally held by Peter Stuyvesant's trumpeter, An- 
thony Van Corlear. Mr. Beekman filled his cup 
with joy when he married that petite damsel, Cath- 
erine Van Boogy. He was the original perpetual 
office-holder. 

"With all of Stuj'vesant's wisdom he had his 
troubles with the Indians, who had not forgotten 
their treatment by the Kieft administration. One 
day, when Stuyvesant and his soldiers were absent 
on their expedition against the Swedes on the Dela- 
ware River, an Indian woman was prowhng around 
in the orchard of Hendrick Van Dyke, near Rector 
Street, on the west side of Broadway, and she stole 
some fruit from the trees. With characteristic 
thoughtlessness and indifference to the value of In- 
dian life, Van Dyke shot her dead. She fell on a 
spot near Broadway, now covered by buildings, in 
the block south of Trinity Church. The news of 
her murder reached her people quickl}^, and, before 
Stuyvesant could return, the Indians swooped down 
upon the City in overwhelming numbers. Van Dyke 
met his death on almost the same spot where he 
had shot the woman, and his next door neighbor, 
who lived just above Morris Street, perished in try- 
ing to save him. The people succeeded in driving 
the savages away; but their tigerish natures were 
68 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

thoroughly aroused. They glutted their blood-thirst 
with ax, torch and gun, in all of the outljang dis- 
tricts. Once more the stream of fugitives appeared 
at the gate of the Fort, begging for protection. 
Governor Stuyvesaut was equal to the task of pro 
tectiug the people and restoring confidence, and this 
was the last of the great Indian massacres on or 
about Manhattan Island. 

Stuyvesant's soldiers turned out regularly on the 
parad" ground, and marched to the bugle notes of 
Albert Pietersen, the Swedish trumpeter. Whenever 
they broke ranks they charged on the tavern of 
their thrifty fellow soldier, Martin Kregier, and 
drank death and destruction to their enemies on 
sea and land, until the}^ cooled off, when they 
wooed Peace, with their pipes and tobacco. 

The affairs of the colony prospered, and the gov- 
ernor outgrew the accommodations of the house in 
the Fort, so he built himself a white mansion near 
the water, and Whitehall Street is a memento of 
the building. He enjoyed himself the most in his 
country residence, far out of the City of New Am- 
sterdam, where at times he could escape from the 
affairs of state. Stuj^vesant Street runs through the 
middle of that property. 

During Stuyvesant's administration the list of citi- 
zens was divided into great citizenship and small 
citizenship. These were the great citizens: 

Johann La Montague, Jr., 
Jan Gillesen Van Bruggh, 
Hendrickson Kip, 

'Coo J tiCt J 69 ' ' ' 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

De Herre General Stuyvesant, 

Dominie Megapolensis, 

Jacob Gerritsen Strycker, 

Jean Vigne, 

Cornelis Van Tienhoven's wife, 

Hendrick Van Dyke, 

Hendrick Kip, Jr., 

Capt. Martin Kregier, 

Karl Van Bruggh, 

Jacob Van Couwenlioven, 

Laurisen Cornelisen Van Wyeek, 

Wilb Bogardus, 

Daniel Litschoe, 

Pieter Van Couwenhoven, 

Johannus Petersen. 

With Governor Stuyvesant in command at the 
Fort, and with his hand guiding the entire govern- 
ment, the Dutch colony reached its highest point. 
The people learned to love their city; and the offi- 
cials, though they were hampered by the govern- 
or's continual interference, took great pride in their 
offices. The ties of mother country became weaker 
and weaker as the opportunities and resources of 
the City were developed, and the people began to 
reap the results of their hard work. Englishmen, 
Germans and Frenchmen, attracted by the freedom 
and the commercial opportunities, came and joined 
themselves to the embryo City. Lutherans, Jews 
and Quakers came, and the European prejudices 
against them quickly wore away. The time was 
ready for the coming in of the new forces which 
were to add breadth and enterprise to the solid 
characteristics which had been established. 
70 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

The Dutch colonists of New York had held their 
own against the jealous New Englanders; but there 
was coming direct from old England forces suffi- 
cient to overcome Fort Amsterdam and its defend- 
ers. Justification for Richard Nicoll's expedition 
is hard to find; for there was no war between 
Holland and England, nor was there any declara- 
tion of war. If Governor Stuyvesant had received 
sufficient warning, he would have swung his ad- 
visers into line, aroused the people for defense, and 
given the invaders a hot battle; but while the 
hostile fleet was on its way, Stuyvesant, all unsus- 
picious of danger, was absent on the business of 
the City; and when, being warned of its ap- 
proach, he hastened to the Fort, he had but three 
days to prepare for defense. There was no thought 
of surrender in this old soldier. He knew that his 
men couldn't fight on empty stomachs, so he set the 
windmills to work grinding grain, that they might 
withstand a siege. He laid in powder, and over- 
hauled his guns. He bustled about, giving his or- 
ders for the defense and trjang to stir his people 
up to resist the unjustifiable assault which was 
surely coming. But the attack had been well 
planned. Not only was a hostile fleet approaching 
the Narrows, but a printed call to arms had been 
scattered among the English residents on Manhattan 
Island and its neighborhood, and many of them were 
assembling to assist the English forces from the 
land side, while others were spreading reports that 
were calculated either to frighten the Dutch inhab- 
71 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

itants or to impress them with the kindly intentiong 
of the invading force. One morning, while the gov- 
ernor and some trusted officers were hard at work 
in their preparations for battle, the expected fleet 
appeared in the ba}', sailed up the harbor, and 
dropped anchor where its commander could rake the 
Fort with an overwhelming fire of the heaviest ar- 
tillery then known. Sixty odd English guns were 
in position to be trained against the twenty-two guns 
of Fort Amsterdam, and the watchers plainlj^ saw 
that there was a large force of soldiers upon the 
ships, ready to be landed for an attack on the 
northern end of the Fort (its home side), where 
there was no provision for defense with cannon. 
The summons to surrender was courteously pre- 
sented and was indignantly refused. Stuyvesant's 
attempt to argue the wrongfulness of the English- 
men's position was met squarely by Nicoll's state- 
ment that the question was not one of "right or 
wrong," but was simply whether the Fort would 
be surrendered or whether he should capture it. 

Nicoll knew of the work that had been going 
on among the people, and being desirous of preserv- 
ing the City from great injury if possible, because 
England's interest in it was entirely commercial, he 
withdrew and allowed time for consideration. Still, 
there was no thought of surrender in the govern- 
or's mind. The schepens and the burgomasters and 
all the other officers, big and little, gathered at the 
Stadthuys, on Perel Sti-aet, and compared their 
doubts and fears; but Stuyvesant thought not of 
72 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

them; he was busy at his post of duty. Once he 
was about to command a gunner to open fire, but 
he was restrained by Dominie Megapolensis. The 
clamor of the City fathers and of the populace 
reached Stuyvesant's ears at last, and he was forced 
to turn from his warlike preparations. "With mingled 
surprise, anger and disgust, he listened to the rab- 
ble of trembling, white-faced people, who impressed 
him only as cowards and traitors. There was a 
great discussion about a letter containing conditions 
for surrender which he had received from Nicoll, 
and which he had angrily torn to pieces without 
thinking that there were others in the City who 
had rights to consider the proposition. When he 
realized that the most of his countrymen, gathered 
in and around the Stadthuys, were bound to pre- 
vent him from defending the City, his anger was 
frightful. The people thought that they knew some- 
thing of his temper before, but on that day he re- 
vealed himself anew. As he shook his fist and 
stamped his eloquent old stump upon the floor, and 
swore the roundest, bluest Holland oaths, they 
thought they smelled burning brimstone in his rage, 
and they feared him more than they did the Brit- 
ish cannon. They fell on their knees and begged 
and entreated that he would save them, their fam- 
ilies and their possessions, from the certain destruc- 
tion of battle. No doubt the people and the officials 
were wiser than Stuyvesant at this critical time; 
but our hearts will always beat for the grand old 
soldier-governor, who would rather fight and die for 
D-i 73 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

his principles and his duty than to purchase peace 
and reAvards with cowardice and self-abasement. On 
that day (September 5, 1664) there was more hurry- 
ing of feet through Pearl Street, between the Fort 
and the SiadfMtys, than there had ever been be- 
fore. The governor, more humiliated by the conduct 
of his own people than by the conquest, permitted 
the surrender flag to be displayed, and turning his 
bac-k upon New Amsterdam, journej'ed to his dis- 
tant home (near Stuj'vesant Street), and planted a 
row of trees between his house and the way to the 
City. And then, without bloodshed, a change oc- 
curred which did little violence to any man who 
lived on Manhattan Island; but it meant very much 
for the future of the colon j'. On September 7th the 
Dutch garrison marched out through the portal of 
the Fort on Bowling Green, and proceeded to AVhite- 
hall dock, where they went on board a Dutch ves- 
sel, which set sail for Holland. As they marched 
out, Col. Nicoll marched in with his troops, and in 
a few moments the flag of Holland was succeeded 
by England's flag, and then Fort Amsterdam be- 
came Fort James. 

We are spending a long time here on this old 
block; but it is time well spent. We should know 
it better; we should think more about it. There 
is hardly a spot in our whole country which has 
had so varied, so interesting, and so momentous a 
history as this block. One thought that impresses 
us strongly at this time is the great and far-reach- 
ing results that follow small beginnings when men 
74 



NEAV YORK CITY LIFE 

strike out in new fields and live out what is in 
them. We cannot say that all that was done here 
was right or best, as viewed trom our position; 
but we know that most of those whose lives made 
up the history of this place lived earnestly and hon- 
estly, and brought to their work all of the resources 
that they had. 

Governor Nicoll spent more time at the Fort 
and less at the Stadthuys than his predecessors, the 
Dutch governors, had done; and while he brought 
Englishmen with him to assist in managing the col- 
onj, he wisely invited Dutchmen of standing in the 
community to join in his councils. After the excite- 
ment of the capture had subsided, the inhabitants 
realized that they had no fewer rights and privileges 
than before, and that they suffered nothing by divid- 
ing up the territory with the new-comers; but that, 
in fact, they had gained something, in being rid 
of the control of the West India Company — the origi- 
nal "soulless corporation." The Sunday after Gov- 
ernor Nicoll took possession of the Fort, there oc- 
curred an event which was deeply significant of the 
spirit that was to prevail, more completely even than 
before he came. The English soldiers had respect 
enough for the Dutch church and its service, but 
they were unused to it, and could not understand 
it, and, moreover, they had their own chaplain with 
them; so for the first time in the history of New 
York the service of the Church of England was 
held in St. Nicholas Church, in this very block. It 
was commenced immediately at the close of the 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

Dutch service, which was conducted, as of old, bj- 
Dominie Megapoleusis, and attended by the people as 
freelj' as though no strangers had seized their City. 

It was a very curious little town that Governor 
Nicoll viewed when he walked through it to see 
what it was that he had come across the ocean to 
capture. The little buildings close to the Fort were 
huddled together as though, like their owners, they 
had fled from some terror; and the little lanes, 
which had opened themselves b,y some natural proc- 
ess, turned and twisted and rambled about, so that, 
with the outlandish names that belonged to them, 
it was easy for an Englishman to get lost. Stone 
Street was a little pathway called Winkel Straet; 
Bridge Street was Br ugh Straet; Exchange Place 
was De Wannoes Straet; South WiUiam Street was 
Slyk Steeg (and was afterward called Mire Lane and 
Mill Street) ; Marketfield Street (once known as Pet- 
ticoat Lane) was Markt velt Steeje; the southern 
part of Broadway was Breede weg ; Broad Street 
was Breede gi'aclif or Heeren gracht; the lower 
end of William Street was Sniet Straet. The City 
had not outgrown the wall which had been con- 
structed on the line of the present Wall Street, 
called the Cingle. There was a sweet little place 
a short distance out, which was called Maagde 
Paetje (or the Maidens' Path). The English sol- 
diers had less difficulty in finding and remembering 
that lane than with any other of the Straets, 
Steejes, Gracht.s or Faetjes abovementioned. It is 
now Maiden Lane. 

7G 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

Many of the Dutch citizens took the oath of al- 
legiance to England, and, strange as it may seem, 
Stuyvesant himself did so. The rule of Nicoll was 
of the greatest consequence, not only to the people 
to whom he came, but to their descendants and 
successors; for in it were instituted courts and legal 
procedures and citizens' rights, which were added to 
under subsequent governors, till the rights of the peo- 
ple became established. Nicoll's great wisdom was 
shown in 1665, when New York was declared to be 
a corporation, with the name of "Mayor, Aldermen 
and Sheriff of New York," and the offices of 
Mayor, Aldermen and Sheriff were confided to three 
Englishmen and four Dutchmen. His government 
had its successes and its trials; but when he de- 
parted to give way to Governor Lovelace, he went 
with the respect and the good-will of the inhabitants 
of the new City of New York, who had become 
closely united under his wise sway. 

During Lovelace's administration war between 
England and Holland was carried on in earnest, 
and the Dutch swept the seas. The taking of New 
York had disturbed the government in Holland more 
than it had the people of New Amsterdam, and it 
took the first opportunity that appeared to proceed 
to the recapture of New York. This move had a 
justification that Nicoll's attack had not, and the 
Dutch admiral, profiting by the previous event, 
counted largely upon the sympathy of the Dutch 
inhabitants of New York, and the natural difficulties 
of a defense against warships. 
77 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

When the Dutch fleet, commanded by Admirals 
Evertsen and Binckes, appeared, Captain Manning 
stood by his guns; but no time was spent in cere- 
monies or in diplomatic approaches. The Dutch gun- 
ners fired solid shot into the Fort, killing and 
wounding English soldiers, and balls passed through 
manj^ of the buildings which were crowded about 
its walls. 

"While the artillerj' fight was progressing brisk- 
ly, a battalion of Dutch soldiers was landed in 
the orchard near the present corner of Vesey and 
Greenwich Streets, and they speedily marched down 
to attack the Fort in the rear. Then the difficulty 
of a defense from the land side embarrassed the 
English troops. With the bombardment going on in 
front, and an assault impending in the rear, there 
was nothing left to do but to surrender. They 
yielded to the inevitable without any of the fuss 
that Stuyvesant had made. Captain Colve led his 
soldiers into the Fort through the old gateway, took 
the English garrison prisoners, and restored the 
Dutch flag to its old place on the flagstaff. New 
York then became New Orange, and the Fort was 
named WilHam Hendrick. Captain Colve became the 
new governor, and, as might be expected, he upset 
the English sj'stem and restored the burgomasters 
and schepens; and there wasn't an Englishman 
among them. They were: 

Johannes Van Brugh, 
Johannes De Peyster, 
Aegidius Luyck, 

78 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

William Beekman (wlio was 
always around when offices 
were given out), 

Jeronimus Ebbing, 

Jacob Kip, 

Lawrence Van der Spiegel, 

Gulian Verplanck. 

As we have said, this was the period when New 
York was thoroughly governed; but it didn't last 
long. England and Holland fixed things across the 
ocean, and Governor Colve had to march out, while 
the English governor, Andros, marched in, and ran 
up the English flag once more, and restored the 
name of New York. Again, on Sundays, the 
Dutch service in the old church in the Fort was 
followed by the Church of England's service, which 
Governor Andros attended. 

In Governor Andros's time, Stephanus Van Cort- 
landt became mayor, with the distinction of being 
the first man born on Manhattan Island to fill that 
position. His dwelling was in sight of the Fort, at 
the corner of Broad and Pearl Streets. Here in the 
Fort Governor Andros held Governor Carteret of 
New Jersej- a prisoner. Governor Andros was suc- 
ceeded by Governor Dongan, whose charter is one 
of the most important State papers affecting the 
City, being to this day a fountain of authority on 
questions of the rights of the people and of titles 
to real estate. The immunities and privileges granted 
to New York and its citizens by the charter which 
was promulgated at this Fort were broader and 
79 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

more liberal than those which were granted to any 
other of the possessions of the Duke of York. But 
Dongan was a Catholic, and Europe was intensely 
agitated by the great struggle between the Catholics 
and the Protestants. That struggle was reflected in 
New York, and as much as Dongan worked for the 
best interests of the City, he was regarded with 
suspicion. His administration at the Fort was jeal- 
ously watched and deeply criticised. The revolution 
in England took place, and William and Mary 
ascenled the throne. The news of this move did 
not reach New York quickly, and the people were 
in great uncertainty. Their sympathies were deeply 
with the Protestant cause, for as yet there were 
few Catholics upon Manhattan Island. The English 
government was looked upon as devoted to the 
Catholic interests, while the Dutch were considered 
to be the champions of Protestantism. There was 
a fear that the success of Catholic plans would re- 
sult in depriving the people of the rights which 
they had begun to receive, and the Dutch spirit re- 
vived. While there were many who deprecated haste 
or radical action, and while the business people were 
conservativ^e as usual, a large proportion of the peo- 
ple thought it necessary to take measures for their 
own defense and for the upholding of the cause of 
Protestantism. 

It seemed as though the home governments had 

broken loose from their moorings and the people of 

this distant colony knew not what to expect, nor 

how soon they would be put to the test. It was 

80 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

not long before leadci.s of the people appeared; men 
who had seen service in the struggles of the col- 
ony, and who were able and willing to lead in a 
defense of the principles which they espoused, and 
in a defense of their own City against attempts to 
seize it in the interests of a rival faith. The tides of 
opinion met and clashed at the Fort; that was the 
center toward which the people hastened in all times 
of excitement and uncertainty. The militia were 
Dutch and intensely Protestant; they took to them- 
selves the right to lead, in the defense of the City. 
One man leaped to the front— Jacob Leisler,- born 
not in Holland, but in Germany, at Frankfort. He 
was a typical republican, an active, powertc^l man, 
born to command, but constantly in danger oi be 
ing led to extremes b^' an impetuous nature. Ru- 
mors came in that the Catholics of adjoining colo- 
nies were preparing to march upon the City, and 
that there were many citizens who sympathized with 
Catholicism and would betray the City into their 
hands. It was reported even that Governor Dongan 
was in the plot. Finally, in a wave of terror and 
excitement which swept over the City, Leisler was 
called to the head of the militia, and, followed b}' 
a crowd of the excited people, he marched into the 
Fort, seized it and turned out the EngUsh troops 
who occupied it. Leisler had gone so far that it 
was dangerous to retreat. Several of his associated 
captains backed out, but he determined to stick to 
his position. He believed himself to be charged with 
the salvation of the people. 
81 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

Colonel Bayard was Leisler's enemy, and he jeal- 
ously watched every movement of the people's gov- 
ernor, resolved to take advantage of all his mis- 
takes. It was a pity that Leisler did not know 
that William and Mary had ascended the throne, 
and that the dangers which he feared were all in 
his imagination; but there was no cable in those 
days, and storms and adverse winds delayed the 
news which would have been welcome. 

Leisler met his opponents sometimes at the point 
of the sword, and so intent was he upon his course 
that he did not hesitate to throw some of his strong- 
est foes into prison and to concentrate the whole 
government into his ovrn hands. Then Captain In- 
goldsby, who represented Governor Sloughter, ap- 
peared, and his favor was won by Bayard and the 
aristocratic part}-, which pandered to his r.pnetites 
and ministered to his vanity, Leisler would not 
yield to him, but stubbornly maintained his posi- 
tion, awaiting the arrival of Sloughter himself, fear- 
ing the vengeance of his enemies in the absence of 
the real governor. Being wild with uncertainty, and 
keyed up to a tension that he could not maintain 
quietly, he caused the cannon of the Fort to be 
fired upon Ingoldsby's troops, who were near the 
Stadthuys. The fire was returned Avith sjnrit. 
Several of the soldiers were killed. While Leisler 
and Ingoldsby were confronting each other, Gov- 
ernor Sloughter appeared, and Leisler immediately 
turned the Fort over to him. Then Leisler and his 
associates had to stand trial for their actions. Eight 
82 



NEAV YORK CITY LIFE 

of them were pronounced guilty. Meanwhile Bayard 
and others of Leisler's enemies were plotting against 
his life. At Colonel Bayard's house the governor 
was plied with wine, and while incompetent he as- 
sented to a decree for the execution of Leisler and 
Milbourne, his son-in-law. 

No time was lost by those who were bound to 
secure the killing of these men. The doomed men 
were promptly apprehended, and the next morning 
they were led to the place of execution, just about 
where the statue of Benjamin Franklin stands, in 
Printing House Square, and there they were hanged 
and buried beneath the gallows. Their families were 
beggared by the confiscation of their estates. When 
Governor Sloughter came to himself, and realized 
what he had done, he nearly lost his reason; but 
he could not recall the act, and it brought on a 
melancholy that lasted to the end of his life. Four 
years later the finding of treason was reversed, and 
Leisler's estates were returned to his family, and 
the bodies were exhumed from their despised rest- 
ing palce and honorably buried; but the shame of 
the governor and of those aristocratic citizens who 
took advantage of his condition to murder their po- 
litical enemy, and the blot on New York's history, 
cannot be removed. These were the only executions 
for political reasons that ever occurred in New York. 
Leisler was executed on his own estate, Frankfort 
Street, which runs east from Printing House Square 
over his lands, was named after the city of his 
birth, and is his memorial. Jacob Street, near the 
83 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

Bridge, reminds us of Jacob Milbourne, liis compan- 
ion in misery. We will take occasion hereafter to 
make a more extended reference to this sad event. 
(See Chapter IV.) 

Our thoughts have strayed a little from the block 
on which we stand ; but our interest is still here, 
and it will be a little while before we can move 
away from it. 

Governor Sloughter did not live long to adminis- 
ter the affairs of the colony; but, dying very sud- 
denly, was buried alongside Governor Stuyvesant. 
Both bodies still lie together, under St. Mark's 
Church on Stuyvesant Street. 

His successor. Governor Fletcher, saw the church 
in the Fort superseded by a new one on Garden 
Street, now Exchange Place. He maintained a chapel 
in the Fort for the English service, and in 1697 he 
caused the establishment of Trinity Church on the 
King's Farm. 

Deeply concerned for the church, as Fletcher 
was, he was also interested in smuggling and piracy, 
and he entertained Captain Kidd and other pirates 
in the Fort. Kidd lived in Liberty Street, and that 
is the only spot which it is known that he touched 
where he did not bury treasure. 

This seems to be the first instance where it was 
charged that a person in high official position in 
New York City used his influence corruptly for per- 
sonal gain. Would that we could point to some one 
and say: "This is the last instance — there will be no 
more." Lord Bellomont was sent to investigate the 
84 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

charges of corruption, and to deal justice; and, amid 
the greatest excitement of the populace, which 
thronged about the Fort daily, he removed Colonel 
Bayard, Gabriel Minville, Thomas Willett, Richard 
Townley and John Lawrence from their positions in 
the council. Frederick Phillipse resigned. These men 
were rich, and it was commonly believed that their 
wealth was in large part the accumulations of rob- 
bery and murder on the high seas. 

Among the new members of the council were 
Robert Livingston, Abraham De Peyster, Johannes 
Kip, John Van Cortlandt and Rip Van Dam. Rip 
Van Dam was a fine specimen of the Dutch citizen. 

Bellomont charged right and left into the corrup- 
tionists, and played havoc with the great men who 
had seized the choice public lands; and he finally 
captured Kidd, the great pirate, who was executed in 
England, while his family continued to live in Lib- 
erty Street. He uttered a sentiment then which is 
as good to-day as it was then. "I would rather 
have an honest judge and a trustworthy prosecut- 
ing attorney than two warships." 

During Bellomont's time the tide of official travel 
changed from Pearl Street to Broad Street; for in 
1699 a new City Hall was built at the head of 
Broad Street, on a portion of Colonel de Peyster's 
Wall Street garden, which he donated to the City. 
The old City Hall had been so racked by the 
heavy usage of many generations of Dutch officials 
that it had become shaky and dangerous, and it 
was sold to John Rodman for 9*^0 pounds. 
85 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 



No governor labored so zealously and so contin- 
uousl}', under circumstances so embarrassing, as 
Bellomont. He rooted the pirates out of New York, 
and he gave the people a great lesson of hon- 
esty in office. He fell a victim to his labors, 
and, utterly worn out, died in the Fort in 1700. 
There he was buried, and there his body stayed un- 
til it was found in a vault on the demolition of the 
Fort, recognized by the silver plate on the coffin, 
and removed to an unmarked grave in St. Paul's 
burying-ground, at Vesey Street and Broadway. The 
heirs of the finder of the coffin converted the silver 
plate into tablespoons. 

Let us still linger on this old block and recall 
those events of the past which are so pregnant with 
suggestions for the present. 

The next governor. Lord Cornbury, was a won- 
derful contrast to Bellomont. He was loose, care- 
less, extravagant, disreputable; 
and the most notable thing he 
did was to dress himself in 
women's clothes to show how 
much he looked like Queen 
Anne, which he frequently 
did; parading in gaudy attire 
on the ramparts of the Fort, 
where the people and the sol- 
diers might see and admire 
Lord Cornbury. him. He was the original 

"dude." Governor Cornburj* died, and Lovelace, 
his successor, held his place at the Fort but a few 
86 




NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

months, when he was stricken down by disease, and 
Ingoldsby's short term followed. Hunter, Burnett, 
Montgomery, Cosby, succeeded in turn to the gov- 
ernorship. "We quote these advertisements of the sale 
of Governor Montgomery's effects, which reveal some 
of the luxurious tastes in the highest circles a hun- 
dred and sixty years ago. 

"To-Morrow being the twelfth day of this In- 
stant, at two o'clock in the afternoon, at the Fort, 
will be exposed to sale by publick Vendue the fol- 
lowing Goods, belonging to the Estate of his late 
deceased Excellency Governour Montgomery, viz. : 

"A fine new yallow Camblet Bed, lined with Silk 
& laced, which came from London with Capt Down- 
ing, with the Bedding. One fine Field Bedstead 
and Curtains, some blew Cloth lately come from 
London, for Liveries; and some white Diap Cloth, 
with proper triming. Some Broad Gold Lace. A 
very fine Medicine Chest with great variety of valu- 
able Medicines. A parcel of Sweet Meat & Jelly 
Glasses. A Case with 13 Knives and twelve Forks 
with Silver Handles gailded. Some good Barbados 
Rum. A considerable Quantity of Cytorn Water. A 
Flask with fine Jesseme Oyl. A fine Jack with 
Chain and Pullies, &c. A large fixt Copper Boyl- 
ing Pot. A large Iron Fire-place. Iron Bars and 
Doors for a Copper. A large lined Fire Skreen. 
And several other things. All to be seen at the 
Fort. 

"And also at the same Time and Place there 
87 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

will be Sold, One Gold Watch, of Mr. Tompkin's 
make, and one Silver Watch. Two Demi-Peak Sad- 
dles, one with blew Cloth Laced with Gold, and 
the other Plain Furniture. Two Hunting Saddles. 
One Pair of fine Pistols. A Fine Fuzee mounted 
witl Silver, and one long Fowling Piece." 

"On Tliursday, the Fifth day of August next, 
will be exposed to Sale by way of Publick Vendue, 
Four Negro Men and Four Negro Women; The 
Times of Two Men and cie Woman Servant. Also 
several sorts of Fashionable wrought Plate: most 
sorts of very good Household Furniture. And after 
the Sale of the above Goods will be Sold several 
fine Saddle Horses, Breeding Mares and Colts, Coach 
Horses, and Harness, and several other things be- 
longing to the Estate of his late Excellency, Gov- 
ernor Montgomerie. 

"Those Persons who incline to buy any of the 
above Goods may view the same at Fort George^ 
in Neiv York, where Attendance will be given to 
shew the same, and the Buj-ers may be informed 
of the Conditions of Sale. 

"The Sale will begin at two in the Afternoon, 
and be continued daily till Sold. 

"All Persons who have any Demands on the 
Estate of his late Excellency, are desired to bring 
in their Accompts."— "New England Journal," 1731. 

There was romance at the old Fort during Cos- 
by's rule in 1733. Lord Fitzroy courted Cosby's 
88 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

daughter, and not getting the consent of her par- 
ents, arranged with a minister named Campbell to 
climb over the Bowling Green wall on a ladder and 
to perform the ceremony at night. So over the wall 
they went, lord and minister — the guard being bribed 
to shut his eyes — and the two were made one. Then 
the governor and his wife were aroused, and their 
forgiveness was begged and was obtained without 
difficulty. 

It was in Governor Cosby's term of oflfice that 
open resistance to tyranny first appeared in New 
York, and indeed in America. We shall have oc- 
casion to refer particularly to the trial of the editor 
Zenger for denouncing the governor in his news- 
paper. This account of the arrival of the governor 
will prove interesting: 

''New York, August 7. — On Tuesday last his Ex- 
cellency William Cosby, Esq., Governour of this Prov- 
ince, arrived at Sandy Hook in his Majesty's Ship 
'Seaford,' Capt. Long, Commander, in seven Weeks 
from Great Britain, and landed here about 10 o'clock, 
in the evening, and was received at the Water side 
by several Gentlemen, who attended him to the Fort. 
The next Day between the Hours of 11 and 12 his 
Excellency walked to the City Hall (a Company of 
Halbertiers and a Troop of Horse marching before, 
and the Gentlemen of his Majesty's Council, the 
Corporation, and a great number of Gentlemen and 
Merchants of this City following, the streets being 
lin'd on each side with the Militia), where his Com- 
b9 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

mission was published, and then his Excellency re- 
turned (attended as before) back to the Fort. The 
Militia then drew upon the Parade and saluted him 
with three Vollies. 

"The same day his Excellenc}' was pleased to 
issue the following Proclamation, viz.: 

"By his Excellency William Cosby, Esq., Captain- 
General and Governour-in-Chief of the Provinces 
of New York, New Jersey, and Territories thereon 
depending in America, and Vice -Admiral of the 
same, and Colonel in his Majesty's Army, &c. 

"A Proclamation. 
"Whereas, His Majesty by His Commission under 
the Great Seal of Great Britain has been pleased to ap- 
point Me Captain-General & Commander-in-Chief of the 
Province of New York, I have thought fit to issue this 
Proclamation, herebj' directing and requiring all Officers, 
both Ci^dl and Military, within the said Pro^-ince, to con- 
tinue in and hold the several and respective Places, Sta- 
tions & Commissions, and to exercise & perform their 
several Offices, Duties ol Functions, according to their 
several Stations & Commissions until further Order. Of 
which all His Majesty's Subjects, and concerned are to 
take Notice and govern themselves accordingl}'. 

"Given under mj' Hand and Seal at Arms at Fort 
George in New York, the First Day of Au- 
gust, in the Sixth Year of His Majesty's 
Reign, Annoq; Dom. 1732. 

"W. COSBY. 
"By his Excellency's Command. 
"Fr. Morris, D. Sec'rij. 

"GOD SAVE THE KING." 
—"Boston Weekly News Letter," Aug. 17, 1782. 
90 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

That Governor Cosby believed in a liberal use of 
beer, where it would do good, may be seen from 
this account of festivities: 

"New York, June 17. — Tuesday the 11th Inst, 
being the Anniversary of His Majesty's Accession 
to the Crown, the same was observed here with 
great Solemnitj-. At 12 at Noon, the Gentlemen of 
the Council, Assembly, and the City waited upon 
his Excellency the Governor at the Fort, where 
their Majesties, the Royal Family's, and the Prince 
and Princess of Orange's Healths were drank, un- 
der the Discharge of the Cannon; the regular 
Troops, in their new Cloathing, all the while stand- 
ing under Arms, who made a fine Appearance. 
Afterwards his Excellency, attended by the Gentle- 
men of the Council, &c. went into the Field, and 
review'd the Militia of the City drawn up there, 
and express'd great Satisfaction at their Order, Dis- 
cipline, and Appearance, and was pleased to order 
12 Barrels of Beer to be distributed among them to 
drink their Majesties and the Royal Healths." — New 
York "Gazette," June 17, 1734. 

An exciting fire visited the Fort in 174:1. Gov- 
ernor Clarke's home (the governor's house), the 
chapel which Governor Fletcher had erected, and 
several other buildings were destroyed. This con- 
flagration, happening close to other fires in the City, 
was connected in the minds of the citizens with the 
negro plot to destroy the Citj'. "We will have occasion 
to refer to this deplorable matter again. 
01 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

The governor's house was rebuilt; and when Ad- 
miral George Clinton arrived, in 1743, to take his 
place in the line of colonial governors, it was ready 
for him, and he received a cordial welcome by 
the people. There was a reception by the lead- 
ing men of the City and a parade by the soldiers, 
and then the new governor marched into the Fort 
through the Bowling Green gate, which had already 
been the portal of so many momentous movements. 
Notwithstanding the auspicious opening of Governor 
Clinton's term, his life in office was not a comfort- 
able one; for the people were becoming more and 
more restive under the rule of governors sent them 
from across the ocean. There had been a rapid suc- 
cession of these rulers, some of them being good 
and some of them verj^ bad, and all of them be- 
ginning their work with a lack of essential knowl 
edge of the v.'auts, customs and condition of the 
people. Gradually the citizens of New York came 
to look upon the interference of the governors as a 
hardship, and began to think of the mother country 
as a foreign nation. 

A quarrel occurred between Chief -justice De 
Laucey and Governor Clinton, and the people un- 
hesitatingly sided with their fellows-citizen, De 
Lancey. The chief-justice humbled the governor 
and secured his recall to England, and a new ruler 
was appointed— Governor Osborne. In 1752 Clinton 
and Osborne and De Lancey — who had received a 
commission as lieutenant-governor — met in the Fort, 
and Osborne was sworn in by Clinton. A proces- 
!)2 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

sion, including a detachment of the soldiers of the 
Fort, was formed to escort the new governor to 
the City Hall, on Broad Street. "When it started, 
the joyful demonstrations of the people were so un- 
mistakable that Clinton, unable to restrain his emo- 
tions of disappointment and humiliation, gave way 
to his feelings, and rushed back to the Fort, leav- 
ing Osborne and De Lancey to proceed without him 
to the Cit}- Hall. We cannot help sympathizing with 
the man who was thus broken down. There was a 
greater cloud hanging over Osborne than there was 
over Clinton; throughout the day he was strangel}' 
agitated, and in the morning he was discovered in 
the Fort, dead, hanging by his handkerchief, which 
he had made into a noose. The poor governor, 
being declared insane, was allowed Christian burial 
at the entrance of Trinity Church. Chief-justice De 
Lancey, whom the people lov^ed, and who was one 
of them, then became the acting governor of New 
York, and moved into the governor's house in the 
Fort. Then came the French and Indian war, and 
the Fort became a center of activity. A new gov- 
ernor came in the person of Sir Charles Hardy. 
Like most of the other governors, he had no un- 
derstanding of the place he was to govern; but 
this time there was a strong, true and brave man 
in the lieutenant-governorship, who sustained the 
prestige of New York during the war. 

De Lancey died while acting as governor, and 
Governor Monckton succeeded him. Then came the 
Stamp Act of 1764, and the various oppressive meas- 
93 



% 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

ures which resulted in the Revolutionary War. On 
October 2'd, 1765, a ship arrived bearing the first 
consignment of stamps to be used under the Stamp 
Act. The people were in a ferment of excitement 
and action, and adopted the most vigorous measures 
for destroying the stamps and showing their con- 
tempt for the authority that sought to force them 
upon the colony. Lieutenant-governor Golden then 
was in command at the Fort; and while he felt 
that he had behind him the power of England, and 
realized his duty to protect the stamps, he was 
afraid of the people. He double-shotted his guns 
and filled the Fort with troops, and supported the 
batteries on the Capsey rocks and at Whitehall with 
strong forces of soldiers. The people, who realized 
that a crisis had come, flocked into the City in 
turbulent throngs, and they surged against the walls 
of the Fort and the batteries. They beat against 
the gate on Bowling Green, defied the governor 
and the soldiers, and dared them to fire their ar- 
tillery. On the night of October 31st the merchants 
met at the Burns tavern, which was located where 
the Boreel Building now stands, at 111 Broadwaj^ 
and resolved that they would buy no more English 
goods and that they would have no more commerce 
with England. That was the earliest radical meas- 
ure taken by the people of the L'nited States to 
demonstrate their independence of Great Britain. 
The governors of other States were taking oath that 
they would enforce the Stamp Act, and the ques- 
tion was whether Colden would do the same. Royal 
1)4 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

soldiers, drawn from other parts, marched through 
the crowds and entered the Fort. Again, at night, 
the excitement raged, and processions were formed 
which marched from the Commons to the Fort, dis- 
playing the governor hanged in effigy. The people 
pelted the soldiers with bricks and stones. They 
made a bonfire on the Bowling Green and burned 
the governor's carriage on it. The Sons of Liberty 
arranged to attack the Fort in dead earnest, and 
the time for assault was fixed by anonymous circu- 
lars that were handed about. The excitement was 
so great that it seemed a matter of only a little 
time when a bloody battle would occur about the 
Fort; but at last the people achieved a momentous 
victory without bloodshed. Colden yielded and deliv- 
ered the stamps to Mayor Cruger, who took them 
to the City Hall, where they were safely lodged. 
The people then dispersed, and they were so de- 
lighted with their success that when the new gov- 
ernor, Sir Henry Moore, arrived they received him 
with the greatest honors. There was no mistaking 
the temper of the people upon the question of taxa- 
tion without representation, and New York's non- 
importation agreement, and her prompt seizure of the 
hated stamps, some of which were publicly burned 
(near the present Catharine Market), entitle her to 
as much credit as has been bestowed upon other 
colonies that were prompt in rebelling against tyran- 
nous acts. The news of the events created con- 
sternation in England, and fired William Pitt, so 
that he delivered his magnificent addresses under 
95 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

the direct inspiration of the action of New York. 
Governor Moore died suddenly, and again the un- 
popular Golden became the representative of Eng- 
land, and the fire of discontent which had smol- 
dered flashed up again. The Sons of Liberty never 
slumbered, and conflicts between them and the Brit- 
ish soldiers were frequent. On May 1, 1775, mat- 
ters had reached such a crisis that a popular meet- 
ing was called, and a committee of one hundi-ed 
citizens was selected by it to take charge of public 
affairs. Governor Golden and his troops found them- 
selves practically locked up in the Fort and in the 
other military positions in the Gity. The governor 
was asked to guarantee that British troops would 
not be landed for the subjugation of New York; 
but of course he could give no such assurance. A 
provisional congress came together in the City Hall, 
while similar gatherings were being held at other 
points near New York. The battle of Bunker Hill 
happened, and the news came to the Citj". 

The New York Congress was in session at the 
Gity Hall, and troops were being recruited for the 
American army, when Tryon, the last English gov- 
ernor, arrived, and landed and took command of the 
Fort. The Americans had seized the battery on the 
Gapsey rocks, in the neighborhood of the present 
Battery flagstaff, and were fired upon by Trj^on's 
ship the "Asia," as they were removing the guns. 
Several Americans were injured. Meanwhile the 
Americans were working hard on fortifications de- 
signed to protect the Gity from the British forces, 
96 



NEAV YORK CITY LIFE 

which had begun their operations in Massachusetts, 
and which, it was expected, would appear in New 
York speedily. General Washington and Governor 
Tryon arrived in New York at the same time. The 
streets were thronged with people, the church bells 
were ringing, the militia were gathering, to wel- 
come Washington, and the beating of drums was 
heard in all the streets. Tryon 's vessel had not 
been boarded by any modern Sandy Hook pilot 
with the daily papers, and he had not heard the 
news; so, very naturally, he thought the bustle in- 
dicated the preparation of a splendid reception for 
himself. He turned to the English officers who wel- 
comed him, his face glowing with pride and grati- 
fication, and exclaimed, "Is this all for me!" Pain- 
fully they explained the situation, and then they 
took him into a house on Broadway, and pointed 
out General Washington as he passed, attended by 
an enthusiastic crowd of the people. The poor gov- 
ernor realized that things had changed. 

Tryon found that governing New York consisted 
in shutting himself in the Fort and wondering what 
would happen next; and fearing that there might 
be some very serious happenings, he changed his 
headquarters to his ship, which lay in the Hudson 
River, and tried to govern the colony from the 
river. 

He succeeded in fastening his name on the City; 

for Tryon Row, at the head of Printing House 

Square, commemorates him, and the fortification 

which he caused to be built at Chambers Street. 

E-i 97 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

This work had a gate through which the Boston 
Road passed, close to the ground occupied by the 
"Staats Zeitung" building. 

The governor did not succeed so well in another 
undertaking which has been charged to him, "Wash- 
ington's body servant, Patrick Hickie, was corrupted 
at the instance of the governor, and tried to poison 
his master at his headquarters. Tryon was safe on 
his ship, but Hickie was exposed b}' his own friend, 
the waitress at Washington's table, who sacrificed her 
lover for her duty to her master and her countrj-; 
and Hickie was hanged on Rutgers Street. 

(The governor's house in the Fort burned down 
during Tryou's time, and one of his servants per- 
ished in the flames.) 

After the Declaration of Independence the British 
troops evacuated the Fort, which was occupied at 
once by the Americans, and General "Washington 
made his headquarters at the Kennedy House, Num- 
ber 1 Broadway. Then there passed in and out of 
the old Fort, through its historic gateway, the noblest 
form of the Revolution. Lord Howe arrived with 
his fleet, and he vainh' tried by the arts of diplom- 
acj' to separate New York from the other colo- 
nies, and to make terms with General "Washington, 
His representative, Colonel Patterson, waited on 
Washington at the Kennedy House, bearing flatter- 
ing letters addressed to G. Washington, Esq., which 
were politely declined, as not bearing a correct su- 
perscription. 

Seeing that Washington could not be won 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

over, and that New York could not be saved to 
England by any diplomacy whatever, Howe settled 
down to the regular operations of war, and the 
battle of Long Island occurred. After the defeat 
of the Americans the old Fort was abandoned, 
and when the retreat of the American army had 
been accomplished it passed again into the posses- 
sion of the British, who retained it as a center of 
operations during the whole of the Revolutionary 
War. 

There is no chronicle of the occurrences on this 
old block during that time; but we know that it 
was the last point that the British army held. 
While their ships waited in the harbor, on Novem- 
ber, 25, 1783, the English soldiers marched out and 
embarked for home, and a detachment of picked 
veterans under command of General Knox, accom- 
panied by General Washington and General Clin- 
ton, marched down Broadway and took possession 
of the Fort. The flag-pole had been greased and 
the halyards cut away; but before the English ships 
were out of sight those difficulties were overcome 
and the new American flag was flying in the place 
of the red flag that had floated there so many 
years. 

With the evacuation, the final act in the strug- 
gle for independence, the history of the old Fort 
was almost at an end. A few years later it was 
torn down, and an elegant government house was 
built in its place, with the design that it should 
be occupied by the President of the United States; 
99 

Lore. 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 



but the removal of the seat of government to Phila- 
delphia left it useless. It was occupied by Gov- 
ernors Clinton and Jay, and then the land was sold 
and the present row of fine old dwellings was erected 
on the spot. These houses were occupied by some 
of the wealthiest and the noblest of our early citi- 
zens, but the steady removal of residences north- 
ward, and the growth of the enterprises which have 
always been concentrated in the southern part of 




Grovernment House on site of old Fort. 

the island, long since made it necessary that the 
site be devoted to business. The most prominent 
residents in this row were Stephen Whitney, a mil- 
lionaire merchant, John Hone, brother of Mayor 
Philip Hone, and the Gihons. 

Now we may walk around this block and call 

up unending pictures of the characters that worked 

out there the most important periods of their lives, 

and of the events that occurred there, fraught with 

100 



NEAV YORK CITY LIFE 

the destinies of the nation. Here is a spot for re- 
flection. All around this block there lived men of 
renown. It was the center of the social and the 
political life of the times. The most interesting 
house in the neighborhood of the Fort was Num- 
ber 1 Broadway, which was torn down in 1883. It 
was built in 1742. Colonel Stone says that previ- 
ous to that date the site was occupied by a tavern 
kept by the wife of a Dutch soldier, Peter Kocks, 
who served in the Indian wars. The house was 
occupied by Captain Archibald Kennedy, collector 
of the revenue, who, while living there, became an 
earl. It is said that, prior to the Revolution, Sears, 
the intrepid leader of the Sons of Liberty, lived 
there, as did also Talleyrand. General Washington 
made it his headquarters at the outset of the Revolu- 
tion, and a number of the American leaders stayed 
there, including Generals Gates, Lee and Putnam. 
When the British took possession of the City it be 
came their headquarters, and Lord CornwaUis, Lord 
Howe and Lord Clinton, Generals Robertson, Carle- 
ton and Gage, and Major Andre, lived there. In 
the rear of the house was a small battery. After 
the Revolution it was occupied by Edward Prime. 
In later years it was known as the Washington 
Hotel. 

The row of houses north of Number 1 Broadway 
contained notable occupants. The dwellings were 
spacious and elegantly furnished. Benedict Arnold, 
John Watts and Robert Fulton lived at Number 3, 
and Chief -justice Livingston at Number 5. John 
101 



THE AMERICAX :\rETROPOLIS 

Stevens and his son John, who was an inventor of 
steamships, the builder of the Stevens battery, the 
owner of the Stevens Castle at Hoboken, and one 
of the first company that crossed the Atlantic on a 
steamship, lived at Number 7. There were some 
interesting marriages between members of these old 
families. Numbers 9 and 11, on the site of ]\tartin 
Kregier's old tavern, were occupied by members of 
the Van Oortlandt family, and subsequently were 
joined together and became a famous tavern, under 
the name of the King's Arms and the Atlantic Gar- 
den. The King''s Arms Tavern had its share of the 
interesting associations of this neighborhood. It was 
opened in 17G3 with this announcement: "Mrs. Steel 
takes this method to acquaint her friends and cus- 
tomers, that the King's Arms Tavern, which she 
formerly kept opposite the Exchange, she hath now 
removed into Broadway (the lower end opposite the 
fort), a more commodious house, where she will not 
only have it in her power to accommodate gentle- 
men with conveniences requisite as a tavern, but 
also with genteex lodging apartments, which she 
doubts not will gire satisfaction to every one who 
will be pleased to pive her that honor." In the 
garden of this house the party gathered which pulled 
down the statue of King George on the night of 
the announcement of the Declaration of Independ- 
ence. Benedict Arnold lodged there after his flight 
from West Point. Poor Andre had his quarters 
close by, at dumber 3 Broadway, and wrote his 
letters to Arnold from that house; but when Ar- 
102 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

nold made his way to the English general, whose 
headquarters were at Number 1 Broadwaj^, Andre 
was in the hands of Major Tallmadge, the friend 
of Nathan Hale, who had already been shot as a 
spy by the Enghsh. It was a poor exchange that 
the English general made — Arnold for Andre. Ar- 
nold was a lion in the field while fighting for his 
country, but his brilliant powers waned when he 
turned his sword against his companions in arms. 
We can hardly realize that it was the traitor Ar- 
nold that, while trying to besiege Quebec with five 
hundred men (!), said: "I have no thought of leav- 
ing this town until I enter it in triumph. I am 
in the way of my dutj' and I know no fear." 
As Irving said: "Happj' for him had he fallen 
there!" 

In this house Sergeant Champe made his plans to 
kidnap Arnold and carry him back into the Ameri- 
can lines. The sergeant, as brave a man as ever 
lived, with the knowledge of his superiors, deserted 
from the American army, was chased by a troop 
of his own comrades, was rescued from them by a 
boat from an English ship, enlisted in the English 
army, managed to be assigned to duty close to Ar- 
nold, conducted a precarious correspondence with his 
own superior officers, and had his plans apparently 
well made for the capture, when they were sud- 
denly disarranged by the sending away of Arnold. 
It was with great difficulty that the sergeant effected 
his second desertion and got back to the American 
army; and although his venture was not successful, 
103 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

he was treated as a hero for the risk that he 
had run, and for the wise measures that he had 
adopted. 

The Bang's Arms Tavern has been confounded by 
a number of writers with the Burns Coffee House, 
where the merchants signed the Non -importation 
Agreement. The reason for this mistake probably 
is the fact that before the agreement was actually 
signed at the Burns Coffee House many of the mer- 
chants met at the King's Arms Tavern, discussed 
the proposed step, and agreed to take it. Daniel 
Webster hved in the house which has the stone 
lions on its stoop. The Stevens House, at the end 
of the row, was the original "Delmonico's." It is 
said that years ago an elderly foreigner and his 
son, strangers in New York, went into this place 
for their dinner. It looked very plain and simple 
from the outside, and they were unsuspicious of the 
bill which their appetites were piling up. When 
the reckoning time came it was like the day of 
judgment. Five dollars and seventy cents was de- 
manded. The strangers stormed, threatened, expostu- 
lated and begged; but the bill of fare, which tbej^ 
had not used in ordering, was the waiter's unfailing 
defense. They paid with heavy hearts and glower- 
ing brows. "Fader," said the son, when they 
reached the street. "Fader, will not God punish 
dot man for his exdortion?" — "Psh!" my son. 
"Sh!" was the reply. '*He has punished him al- 
retty. I've got his silver spoons in mine pocket I" 

The upper end of State Street, as we have said, 
104 



c > 




NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

was opened over the west wall of the Fort. The 
Broadway cars run over the very rampart. The 
lower part of State Street, whe.'e stand those re- 
markably interesting old residences, existed longer as 
a street than the upper part. At Number 6 lived 
James Watson, the first president of the New Eng- 
land Society. Number 7 was occupied by Moses 
Rogers. The son of Bishop Moore lived at Num- 
ber 8, and John Morton, the "rebel banker," as the 
English called him, lived at Number 9. Numbers 
9, 10 and 11 State Street are now let out in floors, 
as tenements, and they are the sightliest and healthi- 
est tenement houses in New York. 

At 3 Bridge Street, near State Street, lived Wash- 
ington Irving. This was the "Hive" where much 
of his writing was done. (His last residence still 
stands at Seventeenth Street and Irving Place.) At 
the corner of Bridge and State Streets was the 
Lenox Mansion, which was occupied by Robert Len- 
ox and his son James, who founded the Presbyte- 
rian Hospital and the Lenox Library. It degener- 
ated into a tenement house and grog shop, and 
was demolished. General Jacob Morton, commander 
of the militia, lived at 13 State Street. The Heis- 
ers lived at Number 26. Mayor James K. Paulding 
lived at 29 Whitehall Street. 

During the Revolution and the War of 1812, a 
complete line of earthworks extended along the water 
front, south of the Fort, nearly on the line of the 
present elevated railroad structure, running from the 
Whitehall battery, at the foot of Whitehall Street, 
105 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

to the battery in the rear of Number 1 Broadway 
(at Greenwich Street). 

It is both interesting and profitable to walk slowly 
through the streets adjacent to the Battery, remem- 
bering the old water-lines and the particular points 
of interest, and looking at the old buildings of the 
Revolutionary period, a number of which survive. 
Water and Front Streets and Greenwich and Wash- 
ington Streets were not built until after the fire of 
1776, but buildings are often found on these newer 
streets which appear to be older than those on Pearl 
Street, which was swept by the fire of 1835. 

West Street and South Street are newer streets 
yet, but there are to be found some odd and weath- 
er-beaten structures on South Street, Among the 
interesting old buildings fronting the Battery, there 
is one at the corner of Whitehall and Front Streets, 
where the east side elevated railroads turn, and an- 
other on Whitehall Street, just north of Front Street, 
with curious oval windows on the face of the build- 
ing, and a quaint building is on the corner of West 
Street and the Battery; but there are few real rel- 
ics of the ancient history of New York. The great 
fires very thoroughly cleared the ground. The build- 
ings which succeeded the fire of 1835 are uninter- 
esting. They seem to have been built upon one 
model, and there is a tiresome sameness of detail 
about them. The most notable feature about them 
is the iron shutters, which suggest the treasures 
and the darkness inside. But in every direction the 
ground has been broken by builders. Palaces have 
lOG 




i 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

risen on every hand, surrounded often, as in Euro- 
pean cities, by uninteresting and squalid buildings. 
There is no direction in which the eye can be 
turned, in the lower part of the town, where the 
great stone and iron piles do not tower to the skies, 
or where building operations have not been com- 
menced. The values of land have risen to such 
fabulous figures that owners miss their opportunities 
if they do not make the ground support the choicest 
and tallest structures. 

Before we leave the neighborhood of Batterj- Park 
we should spend a few moments at the Castle Gar- 
den fort. Here is indeed an antiquated building. It 
was built in 1805, and was then called Fort Clinton. 
It has been patched and touched up recently, so that 
it looks quite modern; but its value as a relic has 
been impaired. When it was constructed out upon 
the rocks, the water surrounding it on all sides, its 
thick walls were considered to be a very efficient 
protection against the cannon of a hostile fleet, and 
the soldiers who occupied it during the War of 1812 
ached for a chance to try the weight of their metal 
upon an English fleet. The ceasing of war, and 
then the advances in the art of war, left the struct- 
ure upon the hands of the government, a useless 
relic; and when the Battery was the great pleasure 
resort of the City, frequented not only by the com- 
mon people, but bj' the wealthy and the exclusive 
classes, it was devoted to purposes of pleasure. 
There occurred the great concerts and entertain- 
ments for several generations. Fifty years ago it 
107 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

was used for the first concert of our excellent 
Symphony Society. Jullien conducted his famous, 
if less classic, concerts there, and his gift for work- 
ing novel attractions into his schemes has never been 
equaled by any leader, excepting Gilmore. His or- 
chestra was a wonder to New Yorkers, who have since 
his day become so highly educated by leaders who 
have followed him that they would turn with con- 
tempt from his programmes ; but the people went there 
in great numbers, and listened to the music and par- 
took of the refreshments which were at hand, Jenny 
Lind there sang herself into the peoples' hearts and 
made Barnum's fortune, and Steffanone and Benedetti 
lifted the people on the waves of song. There, too, 
was the fountain of real champagne, falling over the 
rocks of a mimic grotto, from which the people 
dipped the sparkling fluid in amazed bewilderment. 
Jullien was at his greatest in the "firemen's qua- 
drilles" at Crystal Palace. The music was simple, 
but it was rendered with power and gusto, not only 
by the band, but by the popular choruses that were 
called upon to assist. There are men of means and 
influence in New York to-day who spend twenty- 
five or fifty dollars to enjo}^ with their families an 
evening of Italian opera, who remember with de- 
light the occasions when they sang in Jullien 's 
choruses. The firemen always take the popular 
fancy, and the way they entered into those per- 
formances brought solid joy to the hearts of the ob- 
servers. Round about the outside of the building 
were arranged torches and piles of inflammable ma- 
108 




^• 






|li;!|li|liiJ4iIi;il«lilIiiiilllili!aiiliiiiiiilii!' 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

terial, which could be touched off at a signal. Un- 
der the stage were the fire-engines and the ladder- 
carriages, with their volunteer companies. Connec- 
tions with the water were all ready to be made. 
Then showman Barnum told the audience not to be 
frightened. The descriptive music began and grew 
with dramatic force. The breathless attention of the 
audience was riveted upon the fire story, as told by 
band, soloist, choruses and agitated leader, with ba- 
ton waving in air. Then at the right moment the 
torches were applied, the fiery billows leaped sky- 
ward, and with the crash of cymbals, the booming 
of the bass drum, the rattle of the snares, the blare 
of the trumpets, and the shrieks and howls of the 
choruses, the volunteer firemen rushed upon the 
mimic conflagration and outdid each other in gal 
lant struggles with the Fire Fiend. The battle shows 
at Coney Island may be more elaborate, more artis- 
tic, and more expensive than Jullien's firemen's qua- 
drilles were, but they cannot match them in what 
the Westener graphically called the ''git thar.^'' One 
day the "Fire Fiend" took hold in real earnest and 
ended the mimic representation. 

When the elevated railroads grabbed their slice 
of the Battery Park, a good manj^ people thought 
it would have been well to reopen Castle Garden 
for a place of public amusement, but it had become 
a fixture in the immigration system of the port, and 
the suggestion did not take. The time came when 
the lower part of the city was full of arriving immi- 
grants, who knew nothing of the city or the coun- 
109 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

try, and were the easy prey of boarding-house run- 
ners and all sorts of land sharks; so the matter 
was taken in hand and the system of receiving 
and caring for immigrants, as now practiced was 
begun, with Castle Garden as a center. They have 
made an aquarium of the old garden; but whatever 
they do with it, it will always be famous as the 
greatest immigrant depot of the United States. Out 
on the rocks, near Whitehall Street, years before, was 
established the Capsey Battery to protect the grow- 
ing city; and it had its tragedy too; for in the 
celebration of the completion of the battery by Gov- 
ernor Cosby in 1735 a cannon burst, killing a num- 
ber of the guests, including Colonel Van Cortlandt's 
daughter. 

"^Ve«' York, July 21. — On Wednesday last the 
first stone of the Platform of the New Battery on 
Whitehall Rocks was laid by his Excellency our 
Governour, and it was called George Augustus's 
RoifcU Battery. As His Excellency was returning, 
and the last round was firing, the last piece of the 
Cannon (being very much Honnj'-Comb'd and eaten 
almost through, as it afterwards appeared by the 
Pieces) burst and the Pieces flying different ways, 
kill'd three Persons; viz., John Symes, Esq., High 
Sheriff for the City and County of New York, Miss 
Courtlandt, only Daughter to the Hon. Col. Court- 
landt, a Member of His Majesty's Council in this 
Province, and a Son-in-Law of Alderman Romur. 
The next day the Coroner's Inquest sate on the 
110 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

Bodies, and bro't in their Verdict Accidental Death; 
and in the Evening they were decently inter'd." — 
"American Weekly Mercury," July 24, 1735. 

On this spot have been received hundreds of thou- 
sands of immigrants, who have come to try for them- 
selves the blessing of freedom, and to make their 
fortunes or the fortunes of their children. All over 
the land may be found people, many of them thrifty 
and respected, who remember Castle Garden not only 
as the portal of the new world, but the gate of 
fortune to themselves. It is but a short time since 
the crowds of immigrants, sunning themselves about 
the old fort, or strolling through the paths of the 
Battery Park, made an interesting picture of life at 
the Battery. The immigrants are now on Ellis Isl- 
and, where they have better accommodations, and 
are freer from bad influences than was possible at 
Castle Garden; but even now may be seen the 
strange people of many nations landing at the Bat- 
tery pier from the boats of the immigrant commis- 
sioners and making their way, often in procession, 
up through the Battery Park, Broadway and other 
streets, to become part of the mixed life of Man- 
hattan Island. 

The Battery Park was formerly the city parade 
ground, and there Gen. Morton reviewed the mi- 
litia. There was a small pond in the southeastern 
corner, in view of the general's house, where the 
boys skated. The famous baseball games between 
the "red-stockings" and the "blue-stockings" were 
111 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

played there. Lafayette was received there in 1824. 
Daniel Webster spoke in the garden on the night 
of the famous election in 1834, when the Whigs 
were victorious after a day of rioting, which re- 
quired the services of the militia to restrain. In 
1847 there was a memorial concert in honor of 
Mendelssohn, and in 1847 and 1848 Italian opera 
reigned there. Louis Kossuth was given a recep- 
tion there in 1849. Tyler and Cla}^ had receptions 
there. Dodworth's famous band played there in 
1852. This was the first American military band 
that competed with the English bands that came 
to America to give concerts, and it blazed the way 
for the magnificent organizations of more modern 
days. The sea wall which surrounds the park was 
built under the direction of General McClellan in 1872. 

The Staten Island Ferry, at the southeastern cor- 
ner of the Batter}' Park, is on the spot where boats 
have landed from the earliest days of the commerce 
of Manhattan Island. The first ferry rights were 
sold there by the City in 1745. After the War of 
1812 the original Vniiderbilt ran his market boat 
there from Staten Island. 

In the slip the boiler of the steamboat "West- 
field" exploded, July 30, 1871. One hundred per- 
sons were killed. The gallant service of the White- 
hall and Battery boatmen on that awful occasion is 
commemorated in the l:*ttle basin that has been 
given them for their boats. 

Some old newspaper reftn-ences to the neighbor- 
hood will be interesting. 

112 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

From the ''New York Gazette,'' Mov. 7, 1737. 

"Last Monday being the Anniversary of His 
Majesty's Birthday the same was observed here 
with the usual Solemnity (!). The honourable the 
gentlemen of his Majesty's Council, the gentlemen 
of the Assembly and those of the Corporation, with 
most of the principal Gentlemen of the City waited 
on the Hon. George Clarke, Esq., Lieut. Governor 
of the Province of New York, at the Council Cham- 
ber in the Fort, to pay him the usual compliments 
of the Day, where his Honour and the Gentlemen 
assembled drank the Royal Healths under the dis- 
charge of the Cannon from the Fort (his Majesty's 
Regular Troops being the whole Time under Arms). 
The Evening was concluded by the City being il- 
luminated and other demonstrations of Joy and Sat- 
isfaction more than of late, in that all distinction 
of Party and Faction being Removed. 

"Saturday last being the fifth of November it 
was observed here in memory of that horrid and 
Treasonable Popish Gunpowder Plot to blow up and 
destroy King, Lords and Commons; and the Gentle- 
men of his Majesty's Council, the Assembly and 
Corporation, and other the principal Gentlemen and 
Merchants of this City waited upon his Honour the 
Lieut. Governor at Fort George, where the Royal 
Healths were drank AS USUAL (!), under the Dis- 
charge of the Cannon, and at night the City was 
illuminated." 

This custom of punctuating drinks b}'^ cannon shot 
ought not to have died out. 
113 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

From the ''Xew York Weekly Post Boy,'' Jan. 30, 
17U. 
"Yesterday a small dead Infant was found ly- 
ing on a Linnen Rag among the Rocks near the 
new Battery in this City: It was dried up by the 
Sun, and is supposed to have been thrown into the 
water and wasli'd up. Great numbers flock'd to see 
it, but . we don't hear that the least conjecture has 
been made who its Parent is." 

From the same paper, July 22, 17JfO. 

"Last Night died in the Prime of Life, to the 
almost Uiiiversal Regret and Sorrow of this Citj', 

Mr. John Dupuy, M.D. and Man Midwife; in 

which last character, it may be truly said here as 

David did of Goliath's Sword, ' There is none like 
him." " 

''Xew York, May •>2.— On Wednesday last (17th 
instant) a "Woman in this City of New York had 
Liberty to go into a Garden to gather a Mess of 
green Herbs, and in gathering them she took hold 
of the Top of a radish, and pulling it up found that 
the Stem of the Radish grew out of the Appear- 
ance of a Child's Hand and Fingers, which being 
surprizingly strange, :t was carried before a Magis- 
trate, who ordered it to be put in some spirits to 
preserve it. The Spirits became thick and muddy 
like Blood and Water, and did stink; whereupon 
they put it into fresh Spirits, and it continues in 
the Shape and Colour of a humane Hand and Five 
Fingers with Sinews and Joynts '.vhich open and shut. 
114 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

"It is to be seen at Serjeant Tingle^ s in this 
City, and Abundance of People resort daily to see 
it. Some are of Opinion, that an Infant has been 
burried in that Place, and the Seed of the Radish 
to have taken Root in the Wrist of the Child's hand, 
and the Vegetative Quality of the Radish to have 
preserved the Flesh from putrefying, or at least to 
retain the Colour and appearance of a Hand and 
Fingers of human flesh, it being hard and tough 
like flesh."— New York "Gazette," May, 1732. 

"Lost on Sunday the 26th of July^ on the Road 
betwixt Neic York and Harlem, about five Miles 
from New-York, a large Young Mastiff Dog, of a 
Yellowish brown Colour, his Head black from mouth 
up to the Eyes, his Ears also Black, with four 
white Feet; and about two Inches of the tip of his 
Tail is White. Whoever will bring the said Dog 
to the Governor's House at the Fort in New York, 
or give Notice of him, so that he maj^ be had 
again, shall have Twenty Shillings Reward." — New 
York "Gazette,'' 1735. 

From the ''Post Boy,'' April 17, 17Jf9. 
"It seems as if manj' of the Inhabitants of this 
City were minded to brave the good Laws thereof; 
or else imagine the Doctors want employ: why else 
should Fish Guts and Garbage be lodged on almost 
every Dock and street that a person can't walk 
them without being attack'd by the most nauseous 
smells? Strange infatuation that one Inhabitant of 
a City should have so much 111 will to the whole, 
115 



THE AMERICAX METROPOLIS 

or Laziness ill-tim'd as to Cause such Nuisances 
dangerous to the public Good!" 

The residences of the prominent citizens that used 
to surround the Battery Park have long since given 
place to office buildings and storehouses; but the 
grandeur and the glory of the City have in no 
wise departed from the neighborhood. Such superb 
structures as the Produce Exchange and the "Wash- 
ington and Bowling Green buildings, with the great 
congregation of lesser business palaces about them, 
tell a story to the strangers who first see New 




New York in the Beginnirifr. 

York from the bay that we, who are familiar with 
them, are the last to heed. The opulent Kings of 
Commerce are here, the holders of the accumulated 
power of generations that are gone; and as they 
push out their growing enterprises, the City, the 
State, the Nation, the whole World, all feel, and 
respond to the impulse. We are sensible of many 
defects in our present business system, and of much 
that is harsh and selfish in the use of the power 
of wealth; and yet, when we compare our financial 
condition with the conditions that prevail in other 
nations, we are impressed with the fact that there 
IIG 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

are few of our great business systems which, when 
they prosper, do not lift the people with them. The 
substantial establishments that abound in the vicin- 
itj" of the old Fort are a national protection, far 
more potent than batteries and ships and mines of 
dynamite. The decimation of the business interests 
that surround the Bowling Green by the fierce hand 
of war would send a shiver of pain and a pang of 
distress through the whole world. 

Let us strive as we may to learn, to measure, 
and to appreciate the colossal interests that are cen- 
tered in this part of the City, and we will fail con- 
sciously; but when we have come the nearest to 
the truth and the reality, we will miss the impres- 
siveness of the calculation and the usefulness of the 
study, if we forget the founders of the vast com- 
mercial state and the history of its development 
from its small beginning. 



APPENDIX TO CHAPTER ONE 

FORMER NAMES OF SOME OF THE STREETS MEN- 
TIONED IN CHAPTER ONE 

Broad Street, between Beaver and Wall Streets : 

The Ditch, Schaape Waytie, Sheep Pasture, 
Smell Street Lane, Smell Ditch Street Lane, 
Prince Graft; 

between Beaver and Pearl Streets: 

Ditch, Great Graft, Heere Graft, Heere 
Gracht, Common Ditch; 

between Wall Street and Exchange Place : 
Smell Street Lane. 
117 



THE AilERICAX METROPOLIS 

Beaver Street, between Broadway and Broad Street: 
Old Ditcli, Beaver Ditch, Bever Graft, Com- 
pany's Valley, Bevers Patje; 
between William and Hanover Streets (and Han- 
over Street, between Beaver and Pearl Streets) : 
Slaughter-house Lane, Sloat's Lane, Slote 
Street ; 
between Broad and "William Streets: 
Princen Straat. 

Marketfield Street: 

Marcktveltsteegie, Oblique Road, Petticoat 
Lane. 

South William Street: 

Slyck Straat, Slyck Steege, Dirty Lane, Mill 
Street Alley, Jews' Alley. 

William Street, between Pearl and Wall Streets : 
Smeede's Straat, Smit Street, Smith Street; 
between Wall Street and Hanover Square : 

Suice Street, Burger Joursen's Path, gen- 
erally: Glassmaker's Street, Horse and Cart 
Lane. 

Whitehall Street : 

Winkel Street, Shop Street. 

Broadway, between Bowling Green and "Wall Streets : 
Sheera Street; 
south of Vesey Street : 

Great Highway, Great Public Road, Public 
Highway, Heere Waage, Heere Wegh. 

"Water Street, between Broad and Wall Streets : 
Low Water Street. 

Pearl Street, between Wall and Bridge Streets: 
Sheet-pile Street; 
between Wall Street and Franklin Square : 
De Smit's "Valley. 

Hanover Street, between Pearl and Beaver Streets : 
Drain Ditch. 

118 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

Exchange Place: 

Oyster-pasty Alley, Tin-pot Alley, Flattenbar- 
rack, Dwars Street. 



SOME THINC^S RELIGIOUS THAT WE HAVE SECURED 

BY TOLERATION. 

(See daily neivspapers.) 

RELIGIOUS NOTICES. 

The Salvation Army, 120 West 14th St.— Tuesday 
noon meeting, led by Commander Booth-Tucker; auc- 
tion of children. 

SWAMI VIVEKANANDA. 
ON VEDANTA PHILOSOPHY. 

Sundays, February 16 and 23, at 3.30 p.m., at Madi- 
son Square Concert Hall, Madison Ave. and 26th Street ; 
subject to-morrow, "The Real and the Apparent Man." 
Admission free; collection. 

SPIRITUALISM. 

Carnegie Hall. — Mrs. Cora Richmond speaks, morn- 
ing 11; evening 8; afternoon 2.45: Facts and Phenome- 
na. Miss Richmond answers questions at opening of 
meeting. 

THEOSOPHY. 

Claude Falls Wright will lecture Sunday morning, 
Chickering Hall, 11 o'clock, on "Esoteric Buddhism." 
Admission free. Organ recitals bj" Miss Alice M. Judge. 

"FOOLS." 

Lecture at Chickering Hall by Rev. Thomas Dixon. 
Solos, Abbie Totten; also Miss Dickinson, phenomenal 
whistler. Admission 50c., reserved 75c. Commence 8. 

MORMON REVIVAL SERVICES. 

Brigham Roberts, a Powerful Orator, and George 
Pyper, Tenor, Will Begin a Campaign To-Morrow. 
119 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

TINY PLACES OF WORSHIP. 

The Humble Synagogues of the Poorer East Side. 
Some of the Congregations include not more than a dozen 
families. The study of the Talmud. 

NEW YORK'S LOURDES. 
MIKACLES WROUGHT BY ST. ANNE. 

Virtues of the Holy Oil. The Blessing of Heaven 
and the Curative Properties of the Oil, Produce the Won- 
drous Result. Conveyed in a Carriage to the Miracu- 
lous Bone in the Church of St. Jean Baptiste, East 76th 
Street. 

SYRIAN MIDNIGHT PASS. 

Elaborate Ceremony of a Downtown Church. Priest 
cannot speak English. Sent by the Holy Synod. Differ- 
ences in the Masses of Eastern and Western Churches. 

THE FEAST OF KANAKA. 

Eight daj's of Fun for Yiddische Families during the 
Festival of Lights. 

AN ITALIAN EPISCOPAL CHURCH. 
(307 Mulberry Street.) 

PASTOR SCHNEIDER. 

Pastor Schneider has Joined Almost Sixteen Thou- 
sand Couples. He has Presided at seven thousand Christ- 
enings, and he never Preaches. He devotes his entire 
time to making German citizens happy in this World, 
and Introducing them to the next. 

THIS SECT STRANGE. 

Expects the end of the World in September. Its 
Weird Form of Worship. North Pole to be the Heaven 
after the second coming of Christ. Meets at 413 East 
75th Street. 

AFRICAN VOODOOS IN NEW YORK. 

Priestess invokes the Great One to help Love along. 
Solemn Nonsense of her Rites. Petition to be effective 
120 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

must be signed in Human Blood. Believers not all 
Ignorant. 

RIGHTEOUS DIP BEFORE FLIGHT. 

Stutzke's Disciples Wash Away Worldliness in Prep- 
aration for Transfiguration at Port Morris Beach. Do 
penance on Sharp Stones in their Pilgrimage to the Rain- 
beaten water, clad only in Night gowns. Beer and Sarsa- 
parilla before Baptism. Coffee after the Immersion. 

ARE DIVINE HEALER SCHRADER'S CURES REALLY 
MODERN miracles! 

President of the Faith Curists says Schrader works 
his cures as Christ did of old. Seven Cases of Allevia- 
tion and Cure Investigated by the "Journal." 



SOMETHING THAT WE HAVE MISSED. 



FEES OF MEDIEVAL EXECUTIONER. 

To boil a malefactor in oil . . . . 
To quarter a living person , . . . 
To execute a person with the sword . 
To lay a body on the wheel . . . 
To stick the head of the same on a pole 
To rend a man into four parts . . 
To hang a man or any delinquent . 

To bury the body 

To burn a man alive 

To wait upon a torture if so called . 
To place in a Spanish boot .... 
To place a delinquent in the rack . 
To put a person in the iron collar . 
To scourge one with rods .... 
To brand the gallows upon the back or 

upon the forehead or cheeks. . 
To cut off a person's nose or ears . 
To lead a person out of the country . 
F-i 121 



fl. 


kr. 


24 


00 


15 


00 


15 


30 


5 


60 


5 


00 


18 


00 


10 


00 


1 


00 


14 


00 


2 


00 


2 


00 


5 


00 


1 


00 


3 


30 


5 


00 


5 


00 


1 


30 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 



CHAPTER TWO 

CONTRASTS— THROUGH PEARL STREET TO THE 

SWAMP— PRINTING HOUSE SQUARE AND 

PARK ROW 

Pearl Street— Processions — Elevated Railroad — The Nations- 
Humors of Travel — Italians — A backward Glance — Num- 
ber 19 Pearl Street: a Relic— Stuyvesant's White Hall — 
The Weigh House— The Royal Exchange— Old Streets- 
Fire of 1835— Fly Market— The United States, the first 
large Hotel — Hanover Square — Wingate and the Twi- 
light Club — Hunter — Franklin Square — Walton House and 
its Ghost — The Harpers and their Magazine — Fires — Wash- 
ington's Residence, with Reminiscences — Inauguration 
Parade— Cherry Street— Old Residents— The Fight at Fayal 
— The Flag — The Swamp — Tanners and Shoemakers — The 
Carleton House and its Mystery — Printing House Square 
— The old Road— "Sun" Building — "Tribune"' Building — 
Tammany Hall; its Ancient and Honorable Origin, its 
Splendid Past, its Corruption: a Contrast — St. Tammany 
and the Tiger — Pictures of Ancient and Modern Tammany 
Leaders — Park Pickpockets, formerly protected, now run 
out— The Stool-pigeon Plan — Newspapers — The Modern 
breed of Editors— Extracts from Newspapers of early and 
of recent Times — Exciting Times in the Square— Recol- 
lections of Greelev— The Richardson Murder— A ^Modern 
Slave Hunt— Brick Church— St. George's Park Theater 
—St. Paul Building— Barnum's Museum 

Starting from the old Fort, at Pearl and State 
Streets, and following the line of Pearl Street, we 
will pass over the ground which was most traveled 
during the Dutch period, and which was the road 
for some of the most imposing and important pa- 
rades of the later periods. To-day it is one of the 
greatest thoroughfares of the Citj'. There were not- 
able processions along this old Dutch road in the 
early days, but the unending procession which 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

moves both ways at once without intermission, day 
and night, from one year's end to the other, is 
more significant of the life, the genius, the condi- 
tion and the prospects of New York than any which 
has preceded it. 

Straddling the street on scarecrow legs, cross-gar- 
tered in yellow like Malvolio's, is the ugly structure 
of the elevated railroad, and the trains rush over 
it, carrying millions of passengers each year. The 
narrow street is darkened by the jaundiced mon- 
strosity, and its brick walls re-echo the rattle of 
trains, the grinding of wheels, and the snorting of 
locomotives; but the business of the street goes on, 
apparently undisturbed, while the gloomy iron shut- 
ters tell of the precious stores of merchandise that 
they hide. 

The multitudes pass along the sidewalk, through 
all the hours of the day, intent upon their busi- 
ness, and heeding little the great procession end- 
lessly moving above them, except as individuals are 
forced to take a recess to pick cinders and chips 
of car wheels out of their eyes. One of the mar- 
velous things about this uninteresting street (for to 
those who care nothing about history, and the sig- 
nificance of passing events, Pearl Street has no 
charms) is the absolute unconcern of the people who 
pass ttirough it about the impertinent invention which 
overshadows them, and about the marvelous host 
which is transported overhead at a speed far ex- 
ceeding even that which was displayed by the Dutch 
officials at the Stadthuys, when they broke forth at 
123 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

dincer time. We have not forgotten the similar 
stream of travel vhich runs from the Battery 
through Greenwich Street; but this is much more 
interesting, and presents more completely the re- 
sources and the problems of our City life. Here 
we find the mingling of the nations. A large pro- 
portion of the immigrants who remain in New York 
City get their first startling lesson of our City life 
by being jerked through the air over the heads of 
the people, so close to the houses that they have a 
free exhibition of the domestic economy prevailing 
in different sections of the City. 

The through trains of both the Second and Third 
Avenue lines run through this street. From 9 to 10 
o'clock in the morning the downtown trains are 
thronged with lousiness men located in the Swamp, 
in the neighborhood of Fulton Street, among the 
warehouses and storehouses of Hanover Square, and 
in the financial neighborhood of Wall Street; and 
these classes are to be seen in large numbers on 
the returning trains from half-past 4 to half-past 
5 o'clock in the evening. Then there are large 
numbers of clerks, salesmen and book-keepers, who 
reside in Yorkville and Harlem, west of Second 
Avenue, and there will be found, too, great num- 
bers of artisans and mechanics. There is, too, a 
large, noisy and onion-smelling crowd from Little 
Ital}', who always get their money's worth out of 
a ride on the elevated railroad, and many of them 
make the whole trip, taking ferries at the Battery 
for the places where tliej' work. The Polish, Rus- 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

sian, Roumaniau, and seventeen other distinct kinds 
of Hebrews, who pervade the neighborhood of Grand 
and Canal Streets, pass over this route; and when 
you have seen some of their women thatched with 
wigs, so that no man save their husband may see 
their natural hair, and wrapped in shawls of many 
hues, and their men with long curly beards and 
shiny, long, aged black coats, you will realize that 
even Solomon, in all his glory, was not arrayed like 
one of these. But the Jewish women cannot com- 
pare for rainbow effects wnth the Italian women, 
who add strange and startling colors to those of 
the old-fashioned rainbow, and liven up the effect 
with flashes from fire-gilt jewelry; and, if they be 
not too old, with dazzling illuminations from white 
teeth and sparkling black eyes. 

A quiet and observant passenger was riding down- 
town on a Second Avenue train. When it left Chat- 
ham Square there were three Italians sitting opposite 
to him, talking very loudly, as they always do, and 
evidently enjoying life to its utmost; for an Italian 
in New York can luxuriate, and live in the ante -room 
of Paradise, on half an existence. Across the aisle 
was a German Jew of evident prosperity, probably 
hailing from Yorkville, and two or three seats from 
him was a recent importation of the Polish genus. 
The curly-bearded Pole, whose eyes twitched with na- 
tive cunning, appeared to be studying the meaning of 
the Itahan words out of the gestures and contortions 
of the Italian group. The German Jew was likewise 
studying the Italians; but it was evident that his 
135 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

observation was a critical one, conducted from a 
standpoint of conscious superiority. Presently the 
leading Italian burst out in a most infectious laugh 
(and, if you will notice it, people laugh about the 
same in all languages). The German addressed him. 
He said: "Say I Dere vas twelve hundred of you 
fellows came in on von day, de oder da}'." The 
Italian, not doubting that he was honored by the in- 
terest of a direct descendant of George Washington, 
laughed back, waved his hands almost to the roof 
of the car, and said, "Alia right, alia right; me 
here; me stay." — "Yah," said the German, "dere 
vas seven hundred on von ship and five hundred 
on annuder, and vat I vant to know is vat is go- 
ing to become of us Americans?^' The cheerful re- 
sponse of the Italian was, "Alia right, alia right! 
Italiana coma. Alia gooda. Me Americano, me stay. 
Alia right! Alia good!" He glanced affectionately 
at his wife, and she returned his look with interest 
added. It was evident that they intended to do 
their best, together, for the land of their adoption, 
and the pro])ability is that the future will hear from 
them. The time came for the Italians to leave the 
train, and they waved a jollj' good-by to their crit- 
ical friend, who immediatelj' turned to his Polish 
compatriot and delivered himself of a tremendous 
invective in Jewish Jargon about the coming of the 
Italians to interfere with the rights of American 
citizens. The observer's amusement was a little 
dashed when he bethought himself of his own 
strain of foreign blood. 



i 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

A friend says that a few years ago he sat alone 
in a beer garden in Germany. The proprietor kept 
one or two waiters who spoke EngHsh. He ad- 
dressed an order in English to one of the waiters, 
when up jumped a full-bearded man, who rushed 
over, grabbed him by his hand, and acted as though 
he would devour him, saying, "Mine friend, mine 
countryman, I vas so glad to find a bruder Ameri- 
can in dis foreign land." After burying their noses 
in foaming steins, and drinking each her's very 
good health, it turned out that the thickset, black- 
bearded man had been an immigrant from Germany 
to America some thirty years before, had become 
a clerk in a retail business, had saved up his 
money, and had finally bought out his "boss" (as 
thousands of thrifty Germans in New York have 
done), had married and raised a family of children, 
who had gone to public school, taken a full share 
of the prizes and graduated well, and that he had 
gone back to see his native place once more. He 
said there was no place in the world like America, 
and no place in America like New York, and that 
he loved the country of his adoption with all his 
heart. 

A New York daily gives this picture from life: 
"There might have been a serious fight on board 
the midnight Sixth Avenue car last night; but there 
was not, because one of the passengers had much 
wit and also a gift of song. Somewhere downtown 
the car had taken on a dozen Frenchmen, and some- 
where else downtown the Frenchmen had taken a 
127 



THE AMFRICAN METROPOLIS 

load of strong drink; not a fighting load— for French- 
men are not built that way — but a jolly, laughing 
and singing load. Just as the car pulled out of Car- 
mine Street one of the party struck up the 'Mar- 
seillaise,' and by the time they reached Ninth Street 
they were all shouting at the top of their voices 
— 'Auz amies, mes citoyens. ' At Ninth Street six 
German musicians got aboard. They had e\4deutl3' 
come up from the Pavonia Ferry, and, in spite of 
Lent, it was a fair inference that they had been 
assisting at a dance in Hoboken. By the time the 
big German with the double bass had got his mi- 
wield}^ instrument stowed away, he and his com- 
panions began to take stock of the Frenchmen. The 
latter, by this time, having noted the nationality of 
the newcomers, were shouting De Lisle's words and 
music louder than ever. If the words were offen- 
sive to the newcomers, they were made doubly so 
by the pointed manner in which they were shouted 
at them. The German is slow to wrath, but there 
are some things he will not stand; and one of them 
is the 'Marseillaise.' Any one with half an eye 
would see that these particular Teutons were swell- 
ing with anger. They grew red in the face and 
fidgeted in their seats. A Franco- Prussian war was 
imminent. 

"Then the man with the double bass opened his 
jaws, and a great volume of sound was let loose. 
'Das braucht mir nicht!' and in less than a minute 
the car was throbbing with 'Die Wacht am Rhein! 
— Fest steht und treu die wacht. Die wacht am 
128 



XEW YORK CITY LIFE 

Rhein!' Frenchmen cannot rival Germans in noise. 
The 'Marseillaise' was drowned. Then it was the 
Frenchmen's turn to be angry. In half a minute 
they were on their feet, shaking their fists in the 
Germans' faces. The latter were shedding their 
coats, and the conductor was preparing to stop the 
car and call a policeman — when, up arose the little 
American. He hadn't said a word while the merry 
war was going on; but now he braced himself and 
let go. His shrill voice penetrated the din, and 
these were the words: 

" 'The Star-spangled Banner, 

O long may it wave 

O'er the land of the free 

And the home of the brave !' 

"There was a lull; then all, French and Ger- 
mans, anger forgotten, joined in the ' Star spangled 
Banner. ' 

"The Franco-Prussian war was over." 
The Italians are much harder to Americanize 
than most of the other immigrants from Europe. 
The majority of them come from the worst part of 
Italy. They are superstitious, and there is among 
them a very large share of the vices of poverty 
and ignorance. They are positively the dirtiest peo- 
ple that our sun shines on, not even excepting the 
downtown Jews. There is not a great deal to be 
hoped for from the majority of the adult Italians 
who have come to us. They herd together in the 
meanest quarters, resenting all efforts to reach them. 
They seem to be devoid of progressive ideas. It 
129 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

must be admitted that, so far as they have been 
brought into contact with our people, thej' have not 
been helped much. They have been padroned by 
their own scoundrelly leaders, they have been jfleeced 
and tyrannized by their American (or Irish) land- 
lords and "bosses," and they have been treated 
with unfeeling harshness, and at times with terrific 
brutality, by policemen, and occasionally by police 
justices. These experiences with representative Amer- 
icans have driven them even closer together, and 
have made them more thoroughly the prey of the 
padrones, who grind handsome commissions for ser- 
vices rendered or not rendered (it makes no differ- 
ence) out of the starvation wages which they get. 
The children of the Italians are very promising. 
They learn our language readily, and break aw^ay 
from the traditions of their parents. They learn 
quickly the American idea of personal rights, with- 
out which no people are fit to be free; and there 
are other hopeful indications which we will have 
opportunity to notice when we come to consider 
Italy and Little Italy. The reader should study the 
books written by Mr. Jacob A. Riis upon the lower 
classes in our City. He tells a little story which 
illuminates one aspect of the Italian condition verj- 
nicely. A poor man was found occupying very 
squalid apartments and paying a remarkably exor- 
bitant rent to an Irish landlord. He was asked, 
"Why do you not see your landlord and tell him 
that you will not pay such a rent?" His answer 
was, "I did tell him so, but he said, 'Damma man 
130 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

ifa you talka that way I throw your things on 
the street walk.' " 

The Chinese colony is also represented in these 
trains; laundrymen from the upper part of town 
making frequent visits to Mott Street to see their 
friends and to gamble. 

The student of New York should not neglect the 
studies of these inhabitants, which he may have 
daily by paying five cents for a ride; and when 
he goes through Pearl Street he may let his mind 
slip back to the Revolutionary period and the Dutch 
period, and see if he be magician enough to con- 
jure up pictures, not of fancied scenes, but of re- 
alities, as they might have been viewed from his 
perch, could he have got there one hundred, two 
hundred, or nearly three hundred years ago. 

If the average New Yorker could suddenly jump 
himself back twenty, or even fifteen years, blotting 
out the gradual process of growth which has made 
the changing pictures to merge into each other in 
Idnetoscopic fashion; if he could do that, and bring 
up before his mind a clear and vivid picture of the 
City as he knew it then, he would be startled at 
the wonderful change, the growth and the power of 
progression which he would then realize. 

The uniting of the two ends of the island by 
our elevated railroads has done more for New York's 
progress than any other public improvement of re- 
cent years. Even this new and mighty engine of 
progress has become unable to supply the demand 
for transportation, of which it has been largely the 
131 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

creator, and before many years have passed we will 
have a system of rapid transit that will supplant 
the elevated railroads, or push them into second 
place. 

Let us start at State and Pearl Streets, and fol- 
low the old cow path, or shore road, as we may 
choose to call it. We notice a peculiar angle on 
that first block. That angle is about as old as any- 
thing in lower New York. Near Broadway we see 
an immigrant's hotel flying the Danish flag and sur- 
rounded with typical Danes, and at Number 19 
Pearl Street is the queer little building that we 
have already noticed. The alley and the yard are 
the only vacant ground in the whole block. 

The house has nine or ten rooms of the old- 
fashioned type, low pitched but large; and the in- 
terior arrangements, though modified in accordance 
with modern ideas, reveal the early period of its 
consti-uction. There were blue Dutch tilings on the 
walls; but, unfortunately, they were removed during 
the making of repairs, about thirty years ago, and 
were lost. The foundations are of stone; and it 
would require the shock of a cannon ball or an ex- 
plosive, even at this date, to disturb them. Though 
the frontage on Pearl Street is small, the lot has a 
depth of 119 feet. The early occupants of the houses 
planted their tulips right under tlie guns of Fort 
Amsterdam. Mr. D. R. Jacques, its present owner, 
has in his possession the deed of the lot handed 
to his ancestors by the English governor, Francis 
Lovelace. The present tenant, who has been there 
132 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

forty-five years, still plants the yard with flowers, 
as his predecessors did before American independ- 
ence was dreamed of. 

We cross Whitehall Street, and turning our 
faces southward, we see the spot, half way be- 
tween Pearl and Front Streets, where the shore 
used to be, and where Governor Stuyvesant's white 
house stood, and where the Whitehall Battery was 
built in later days. From that point eastward and 
southward, where solid blocks of warehouses now 
stand, stretched the basin that gave shelter to ves- 
sels whose skippers paid the City for the privilege 
of harbor. On our right, as we cross Whitehall 
Street, is the block formerly occupied by the Prod- 
uce Exchange, and on it stood the ancient Weigh 
House. In this part of the street (Number 33 Pearl 
Street) was the first church, which was used before 
Dominie Bogardus built one in the Fort. In the En- 
glish days the street at this point was called Dock 
Street. At Broad Street was the spot where the 
Dutch traders used to meet, where the Royal Ex- 
change stood, and where the Board of Trade had 
its inception. For many blocks around us ground 
is of the utmost value, and almost every inch of 
it is occupied by the business interests that are 
crowded together. It is but a few steps to Num- 
ber 73 Pearl Street, the site of the Stadthuys, with 
which we have become somewhat familiar; and here 
we may stand a few minutes to look over the place 
where the cage and the stocks, the pillory, the duck- 
ing-stool, the whipping-post and the gallows stood, 
133 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

and where the battery was erected, and where Coen 
and Antye spent their happy days. Now there is 
not a vpstige of any of these old things, and there 
is nothing to help the memory but the tablet on 
73 'Pearl Street (the invitation of which is rudely 
checked by the warning sign in the window) and 
the old lamp frame on the alley. Here, forty years 
ago, the target companies from the Bowery often 
came to carouse and to compete for prizes. We 
have read of one where the contestants fought it 
out blindfolded, with augers: the prize— a pig — go- 
ing to the man who got his auger most squarely 
into the bull's-eye. Some of the contestants missed 
the target altogether, and were almost in the river 
before they were stopped. In 1820 the body of a 
murdered man was found in Coenties Alle}-, near 
the Stadthuys site. A remarkable man, Jacob 
Hays, was head constable. He suspected the keeper 
of a low place in the neighborhood of committing 
the murder. He caused the body of the dead man 
to be taken to the old Rotunda, in the City Hall 
Park, and covered with a sheet. Then he arrested 
the suspect, took him rapidly to the Rotunda, sud- 
denly pulled the sheet off the body, and screamed 
in his ear: "Do you know that man?" — "Yes, I 
murdered him," was the quick, half-conscious an- 
swer. That was the original "third degree." Since 
that day it has been greatly improved. Through 
Coenties Alley we have a glimpse of a block on 
Stone Street, long, narrow, and covered to the last 
inch by brick buildings, running through from street 
134 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

to street. This Stone Street, the first paved street 
in the City, was called by the English Duke Street, 
and by the Dutch Brower (or Brewers), and the 
street back of that, now South "William, was called 
by the English Mill Street, after the horse mill in 
which the first religious exercises were held by the 
Dutch. We must resist the temptation to slip off 
on side journeys. The only way that we will be 
able to understand our ground is to return to the 
old Fort for our various expeditions through this 
part of the City. We will continue then through 
Pearl Street, and but a few doors further, on the 
same side of the street, marked by a tablet, we 
will find the spot where Wilham Bradford, the first 
printer, had his press, and where he printed our 
first books. This is the place where our printing 
and publishing had its beginning, and when we go 
to Trinity churchyard we will see the tomb in which 
the printer was interred. Across the street, a little 
further north, is a bonded warehouse, on which 
is an impressive memorial tablet. It records the 
fact that the building is constructed from the stones 
of the house which previously stood there, and 
which was destroyed in the fire of 1835. That ter- 
rible conflagration swept over the business part of 
New York during a day and night in winter, while 
the thermometer registered 17 degrees below zero. 
The firemen were tired out with their struggle 
against a large fire on the preceding night, and, 
with their inefficient apparatus, they were absolutely 
powerless to check the flames. Seventeen blocks, 
135 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

containing nearly seven hundred buildings, were 
burned over. The direct loss was over twenty mil- 
lion dollars. Banks were compelled to suspend, and 
insurance companies were unable to meet the great 
demands that were made upon them. The fire be- 
gan at Number 25 Merchant Street, and speedily 
traveled into Pearl Street and Exchange Place. It 
burned southward, nearly to Broad Street, eastward 
to the river, and from "Wall Street to Coenties Slip. 
The south side of Wall Street was demolished from 
William Street to the river. In this space were 
churclies, banks, exchanges, warehouses, stores, dwell- 
ings, taverns; and the excitement, confusion and ter- 
ror of the people, who were directly concerned in 
the disaster, cannot be described. The entire popu- 
lation of the City watched the flames from every 
position which could be held against the heat and 
the onrush of the flames. The most expensive fab- 
rics, the choicest foods, the rarest importations, were 
carried out of buildings and piled up in the streets, 
where it was hoped they would be out of danger; 
and the lawless classes took advantage of the many 
opportunities for pillage and plunder. The Dutch 
Church, on Exchange Place, and the Merchants' 
Exchange, on Wall Street, were filled with goods 
that were hastily piled up with the hope that they 
might be saved, but all was lost in the flames. 
The watchmen of the City were as powerless to re- 
strain the crowds as the firemen were to stay the 
fire. It was not until the militia were hastily gath- 
ered together, and sailors and marines came from 
130 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

the harbor forts, that even a semblance of order 
could be attained; but before that time hundreds 
of thieves had enriched themselves from the piles of 
goods that unfortunate owners were trying to save, 
and hundreds of men had become noisily intoxicated 
with the wines and spirits to which they found ac- 
cess. There was no water supply, except that which 
was laboriously pumped up from the river, and the 
firemen had to chop through thick ice to reach the 
water with their hose pipes. During the night it 
became apparent that the only way to stop the fire 
was to blow down the buildings which might be in 
its path, and so to make a gap which the flames 
could not cross. This work was undertaken by the 
marines, who brought kegs of powder from the gov- 
ernment stores, bravely carried them through the 
City on their shoulders, and placed them in the 
buildings which were selected for destruction. The 
mines were sprung, there was an awful explosion, 
and the doomed houses tumbled to the ground. 
The sacrifice was successful. At that point the fire 
spent itself. The Merchants' Exchange and the 
Dutch Cliurch, and their deposit of valuables, were 
ruined, together with the mass of buildings that 
surrounded them. While the fire was at its height, 
some one, inspired by the tremendous occasion, 
opened the great organ in the church and plaj'^ed 
dirge upon dirge, until he was driven out by the 
hot blast of the advancing holocaust. A man was 
caught setting fire to a building at the corner of 
Stone and Broad Streets, and was lynched on the 
137 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

spot. There has never been seen in our City such 
an awful condition of desolation as was beheld by 
the sorrowing inhabitants on the following morning, 
and it was many years before the City recovered 
from the disaster. This terrible event gave an im- 
pulse to the movement for an adequate water sup- 
ply, and for the improvement of the fire depart- 
ment. This fire destroyed many buildings that were 
valuable for their historic associations; but it pre- 
pared the way for a greater City, and for a more 
substantial business development, by clearing the 
ground of hundreds of old buildings which other- 
wise would have remained for many years to pre- 
vent the coming in of large business interests, and 
perhaps to divert such business to other parts of 
the Cit}'. The fires in earh' New York were fre- 
quent and terrible, and they have left to us very 
few of the buildings which would now be venerated 
for their history. The fire annals of those times 
make thrilling reading even at this remote day. 
Among the hard-working firemen in 1835 was Wil- 
liam M. Tweed. 

Only a short time ago workmen, excavating for 
a building at Water Street and Old Slip, came 
upon a mass of slag formed by the melting of a 
store of metals in the fire of lSo5. 

That fire was confined to the business part of 
the City, lying east of Broadwaj^; but the fire of 
177G crossed to the west side of Broadwa3\ It be- 
gan in a low saloon called the "Fighting Cock," 
at Whitehall Wharf, on the night of the daj^ when 
138 



NEAV YORK CITY LIFE 

the British took possession of New York. The En- 
glish soldiers believed that the Americans had fired 
the City, and in their anger they killed a number 
of people, and threw some of them into the flames. 
The fire extended to Broad Street, burned the blocks 
between Whitehall and Broad Streets, crossed Broad- 
way, between Morris and "Wall Streets, burned Trin- 
ity Church and the Lutheran Church, and swept 
everything before it from Broadway to the North 
River, between Morris and Murray Streets. The 
burned district remained desolate until the return of 
the Americans in 1783, though a portion of it was 
filled with tents that were occupied in great part 
by dissolute people. 

Another great fire occurred on December 9, 1796. 
It is remembered as the Coffee House Slip Fire. It 
started at the foot of Wall Street and East River, 
and extended to the Fly Market in Maiden Lane, 
which it damaged; all the buildings in this district 
east of Front Street were totall}'- destroyed. Prior 
to this, in 1778, sixty-four houses were burned at 
Cruger's Wharf. 

In 1804 there was another great fire, which 
burned forty houses on Front, Pearl and Wall 
Streets, including the Tontine Coffee House. The 
loss was two million dollars. In 1845 there" oc- 
curred a fire in the same district which approached 
the fire of 1835 in its destructiveness ; for three 
hundred buildings were burned, and the loss ex- 
ceeded ten million dollars. Thirty people lost their 
lives. Many of these were firemen. The fire broke 
139 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

out at Number 3-i New Street, where a great quan- 
tity of oil was stored. Soon it reached Exchange 
Place and Broad Street. A building on Broad Street 
was full of saltpeter, and when the flames reached 
it, there was an explosion that shook the City and 
was felt for miles out of town. Men were killed, 
an engine was blown across the street, adjoining 
houses were thrown down, and the doors of build- 
ings on Wall Street were burst open. This terrible 
explosion spread the burning brands in every direc- 
tion, and the fire broke out in new places. All the 
buildings on Broad Street, from "Wall to Beaver, 
and on Exchange Place, from William to Broad- 
way, and on New Street, from Wall to Beaver, 
were destroyed. Besides .these great fires there were 
many smaller ones all through this district. These 
events are mentioned here as a partial explanation 
of the disappearance of so many landmarks of for- 
mer days. Some of the most interesting parts of 
the lower City have been burned over several times. 
Continuing through Pearl Street, at Hanover Square, 
we are in one of the choicest residence sections of 
the English colonial and the Revolutionary periods; 
and here, too, we find imposing buildings, notably 
the new Cotton Exchange and the Coffee Exchange, 
which seem fitted to succeed the grand homes which 
once surrounded the square. Here hved Mayor 
Thomas Willett in 1665, Mayor John Lawrence in 
167:3, Mayor Nicholas Bayard in 1G85; and the prin- 
cipal men of the different epochs were largely rep- 
resented in the neighborhood. It was a great head- 
140 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 



quarters for Royalists during the Revolution. Here, 
it is recorded, the newsboys cried the news of the 
American defeat at Germantown in this fashion: 
"Glorious news from the Southward! Washington 
everywhere defeated! The bloodiest battle in Amer- 
ica! Six thousand rebels killed, and one hundred 
wagonloads wounded!" 




New York Cotton Exchange, Beaver and William Streets. 

The Cotton Exchange was organized in 1870, and 
its beautiful building, which we now see, was com- 
pleted in 18!)5, and cost a million dollars. 

The old Cotton Exchange building across the way 
is occupied by the offices of WiUiam R. Grace, 
who has been mayor, and who mixes politics, re- 
ligion and business very naturally. 
141 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

Looking down Old Slip we see the buildings of 
the police station and the fire company, which have 
been erected by the City in the middle of the street, 
that being the most available location for the police 
and fire services, which are so important to that 
congested section of the City. In olden times Old 
Slip was the home of enterprise, as may be seen 
from this advertisement: 

"Teeth drawn and old broken Stumps taken out 
very safely and with much ease, by James Mills, 
who was instructed in that art by the late James 
Reading, deceased, so fam'd for drawing of teeth. 
He is to be spoke with at his shop in the house 
of the Deceased near the Old Slip Market." — 
"Weekly Journal," Jan. 1735. 

The new buildings of the Cotton Exchange and 
the Coffee Exchange give an appearance of dignity 
to one side of the square, well in keeping with the 
character that it once had; but some of the sur- 
roundings of those great buildings are rather incon- 
gruous. The two little houses north of the Coffee 
Exchange must soon give way to the onward march 
of towering structures; but there are some features 
about those two buildings that we shall sadly miss 
when they go. Nowhere else can be found such 
roof windows. 

The first house is occupied on the ground floor by 
one Hummer with a restaurant; but the name does 
not nearly so well describe the keeper of the restau- 
rant as it does the man who holds forth in the upper 
142 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

part of the building as a sanitary engineer. There 
is the oflSce of one of the most able, versatile and 
successful men of our business life. What he doesn't 
know about sanitary engineering wouldn't pay any 
one to find out; but it is as the organizer, secre- 
tarj' and principal figure of the Twilight Club that 
the people know him best. New York is full of 
odd institutions and peculiar societies, but the Twi- 
light Club is the only one of its kind. It is made 
up of negations. It has no president, no club house, 
no constitution, no dues, no political discussions, no 
religious harangues, no long-winded speakers, no plat- 
form. The list of things it has not might be ex- 
tended indefinitely. But it does contain a host of 
genial, witty men, whom Wingate has discovered, like 
Captain Codman, the martyr of the Grace Church 
chimes, and Professor Packard, of saintly character, 
who manage on stated occasions to perform im- 
posing gastronomic feats, and at the same time to 
evolve the most extraordinarj' mental gymnastics in 
flowing speech that can be observed on Manhattan 
Island. The club meets t'wace a month at the St. 
Denis hotel, eats a good dinner, which the mem- 
bers pay for on the spot, and then spends two 
hours in free speech upon the interesting questions 
of the day, with the express understanding that 
each orator shall speak his inmost thoughts without 
hesitation or reserve, and with the perfect assurance 
of the esteem and good-will of all his listeners. Mr. 
Wingate's bulletins of the meetings are brimful of 
humor and common sense. We consider Wingate 
143 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

one of the characters of New York, and, reverently 
we say it, one of its curiosities. This building was 
the home of the famous French general, Victor Mo- 
reau, who was banished from France on a charge 
of conspiracy to assassinate Napoleon. In the rear 
of this house was the Bell Tavern, kept by the 
father-in-law of William Niblo from 1806 to 1812. 



t) 



Certificate of Membership 

Ye Twilight Club 
of New York. 



Founded Jan. 4, 1883, to Cultivate Good Fellowship 
and Enjoy Rational Recreation. 

To all Whom it may Concern: 

This Certificate Witnesseth, That We, The 
Undersigned, Members of The Executive Committee 
of Ye Twilight Club, being in session lawfully 
assembled, and being clothed with full authority un- 
der the (no) Constitution, in consideration of the 
warrantees and agreements made to them in the 
application for membership and of the sum of Two 
Dollars, in hand paid, Do Hereby Accept 
by occupation, profession or employment, a 
residing in the State of New York, as a full mem 
ber in Division A of this most Honorable, August 
and Dignified Body, established Anno Domini 1883, 
for the Maintenance and Preservation of Public Or 
der and Good Fellowship, and the Welfare of Man 
kind, and in accordance with the Laws of Nature 
144 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

and the Precepts of Morality, in the City and 
County of New York, and finding, ad hoc condi- 
tiones sine qua non, the said to be of the 

proper Voting Age, of High Intellectual Attain- 
ments, Fair Moral Character, Comely Carriage, a 
Philosopher's Digestion, uu bon esprit, and having 
forsworn Evil and All Formality; and understand- 
ing, moreover, that he is not in forma pauperis, 
but that he is of adequate pecimiary responsibility 
[up to One (1) Dollar], and furthermore is not lo- 
quendi non facilis de census Averni, We, there- 
fore, do hereby Solemnly pronounce him to be a 
Reasonable and not Extra Hazardous Risk, and a 
full member cum priviligis, including full liberty 
to Pay Promptly such Assessments as may be levied 
upon him add infinitum. 

Given and established under the great seal {Phoca 
grcenlandica) of the Commonwealth and of the 
Twilight Club, before the Hanover Square Sta- 
tion of the Elevated Railway, and within sight of 
the Brooklyn Bridge, this 30th day of .November, 
in the year of (ex-Mayor) Grace, 1890. 

Sic {rapid) transit gloria mundi — Eringounom- 
eplurihushragli. 

(Signed) J. C. Zachos, Andrew H, H. Dawson, 

S. S. Packard, E. W. Chamberlain, 

W. O. McDowell, Geo. W. Wingate, 
J. H. Suydam, C. N. Bovee, 

Rossiter Johnson. 

Attest : Executive Committee. 

Seal. Chas. W. Wingate, Secretary. 

G-i 145 



THE AMERICAX METROPOLIS 



PRI^X■IPLES. 



No Debts. 

By-Laws. 

President. 

Constitution. 

Salaries. 
No Full Dress. 

Mutual Admiration, 

Defalcations. 

Decamping Treasurer. 

Watered Stock. 

Parliamentary Rules. 

"Previous Questions,' 
No Lengthy Speeches. 

Late Hours. 

Profanity. 

"Fish Stories." 

"Sailors' Yarns." 

Dueling. 

Free Dinners. 



No Scandal. 

Bribery. 
No Personalities. 

Party PoHtics, 

Preaching, 

Gambling. 

Dynamite. 

"Bouncer." 
No Conventionality, 

Grand Reform, 

High Ideal. 

' ' Papers. ' ' 

"Dudes," 
No Puns, 

Gush, 

Cant. 

Red Tape, 

Formality. 

Humbug, 



Another figure that will be sadl}' missed, when 
the ci foresaid march of improvements shall have 
cleared off these two buildings, is the zealous and 
enterprising Robert F. Hunter, who combines a 
number of worthy occupations in his office in the 
corner building. He is agent, custom-house broker, 
notarj- public, and tea dealer, all at once, and you 
may see the original packages of tea from the ele- 
vated station. His various occupations are stated on 
several signs, and the people are informed that they 
ma}' purchase at his office, "tea at retail at very 
low prices." Mr, Hunter combines in himself the 
old and new business types. This is a sample of 
146 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

the old style: "Gerardus Duyckinck Living near 
the Old Slip Market in New York continues to 
carry on the business of his late Father deceased, 
viz., Limning, Painting, Varnishing, Japanning, 
Gilding, Glazing and Silvering of Looking Glasses, 
all done in the best Manner. He also will teach 
any young gentleman tlie Art of Drawing, with 
Painting on Glass, white lead oil and Painters 
Colours." 

One of the most notable buildings on the square 
is an ordinary new flat tenement with the common 
paper signs pasted in the windows, "Flat to Let." 
Occasionally the round old face of some homely 
dame, pressed against the window-pane in the middle 
of the day, looks out upon the exchanges across 
the street, and the immense traffic of the square, 
regardless entirely of the memories of the grand 
persons who once lived there, and unconscious of 
being a curiosity at that spot. It will be interest- 
ing to watch the "flat" and see what becomes of 
it during the next ten years. 

Number 140 Pearl Street was the residence of 
Admiral Digby and Prince WilHam (WilHam IV. 
of England), and Governor CHnton lived at Num- 
ber 178. 

Proceeding a little further, we cross Wall Street. 
Resisting the temptation to stray over this thorough- 
fare, we stop only a moment to notice the Sea- 
men's Savings Bank and the Marine Bank, on two 
Wall Street corners, and the Tontine Building, at 
the corner of Water Street, standing on the old 
147 



THE AMERICAN 3IETE0P0LIS 

water-line of Dutch times. It is a memorial of the 
Tontine Coffee House, which was a great institu- 
tion in the early days of New York. 

At Pine Street was the home of Colonel Abra- 
ham De Peyster, built in 1G95, occupying an entire 
block and fronting on the riv'er. At Cedar Street 
were the first brick buildings after Governor Leis- 
ler's (which stood next to Governor Stuyvesant's 
White Hall, near the Fort). Colonel De Peyster's 
houses were three stories high, and were built in 
lfi96. 

The Dutch leaders, like De Peyster, Van Cort- 
landt and Van Dam, congregatiug in this section 
and maintaining their interest in it, Pearl Street 
became the Dutch Broadwa3\ 

At Libert}' Street was the famous King's Head 
Tavern. The sign, the King's Head, passed from 
this place to others, and finally landed in Mon- 
tague's, on Broadway, where it was put out of use. 

Continuing our walk past the places formerly oc- 
cupied by the residences of man}' of the most promi- 
nent people of early New York, we coiue in a few 
moments to Maiden Lane, and here, if we had ar- 
rived in the real old Dutch times, we would cither 
have been compelled to sicini across the Maagde 
patje gracht, or to have walked up to such a point 
as we could jump across it. Had we lived in those 
days we would have made the detour; for, if tra- 
dition is good for anything, there would have been 
plenty of enjoyable companj* on the shores; and, by 
the way, is it not interesting to note that along 
148 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

this pathway, so much frequented by the Dutch 
maidens, are located so many of the leading jew- 
elry shops of the City? Here at Maiden Lane, 
where we cross on dry ground, stood the famous 
Fly Market, not named after the flies, who were 
undoubtedly as populous and insistent a community 
there as at other markets, but so called because the 
Dutchmen pronounced their V's like F's, and in- 
stead of saying Valley, which they meant, they 
said Vly or Fly. Here was the valley of the 
maidens, and undoubtedly it was a happy thought 
of some thrifty merchant that where they came 
down to wash their clothes they might be induced 
to buy the family provisions and to take them 
home. We know that some carping critics will in- 
sist on applying the rule, the compass and the tape 
to everything; but we def}^ them to prove that the 
Fly Market had not its origin in the congregating 
of traders at that spot to sell produce and family 
stores to the "women folks." This old market was 
in full bloom during the days of the privateers, and 
it was a favorite spot for procuring supplies by the 
captains of those vessels. 

At this point will be seen a few interesting old 
buildings, and none more interesting than the tav- 
ern (which we will insist on calling it), at the 
point where Maiden Lane and Liberty Street come 
together. The building was erected in 1823. Plainly 
it was a notable house in its day, but as you 
stand in front of it, with similar old establishments 
about you, and look toward Broadway, veritable 
149 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

mountains of stone, iron and brick rise up behind 
it, so that it presents an amusing appearance of 
shabby and antique gentility. 

The Fly Market was one of the most interesting 
gathering spots on Manhattan Island. It seems to 
have been established about the year 17(i6, for the 
purpose of securing regular supplies and of fixing 
regular charges for meat and fish. As the City 
grew, the market became more important, and after 
a while it was the great meeting place for pur- 
chasers and consumers. In those days the finest 
gentlemen of the City did their own marketing and 
carried their purchases home in their own hands, 
and they met and bargained with the humblest and 
the commonest marketmen who had food for sale. 
The butchers of the Fly Market were an enterpris- 
ing lot. and in time came to have considerable in- 
fluence in affairs of the town. Bustle and jollity 
were the characteristics of the market's life, but 
there were times of trial and distress. The scourge 
of yellow fever was most severe in the neighbor- 
hood of the market, and several times its stalls 
were deserted; the marketmen fleeing from the 
neighborhood and endeavoring to carry on their 
business at their temporary homes in places far dis- 
tant. Dutch farmers from Jersey, and English farm- 
ers from Long Island, brought their vegetables in 
rowboats or skiffs. Occasionally Indians came with 
game and fish, and at all times there were crowds 
of careless darkies, uncouthlj^ attired, ready to laugh, 
swear, or dance for pennies or eels. The butchers 
150 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

of the Fly Market were in the front in the fight 
for Uberty. They swelled the gatherings of the 
Sons of Liberty, and many of them were in the 
crowd of patriots at the battle of Golden Hill. 
Among the prominent butchers of the market were 
Richard Green, Isaac Varian, John Stockford, Peter 
Jay, Samuel Lawrence and John Pessenger. Pes- 
senger was a great patriot, and did substantial work 
in supplying meat to the Continental army. He be- 
came connected bj' marriage with Henry Astor, 
brother of John Jacob Astor (who spelled his name 
Ashdor). Henrj' Astor married a daughter of the 
estimable woman whom Mr. Pessenger married. As- 
tor was very proud of his wife, frequently saying 
to his associates, "Dolly is de pink of de Powery." 
Pessenger cared for Major Leitch, who was fatally 
wounded at the "Battle of Harlem Plains." He 
was so faithful in supplying General Washington's 
army that his ability was made known to General 
Howe, who endeavored to secure his services at a 
large price, but he patriotically refused to have anj- 
dealings with Howe. When General Washington be- 
came President, and took up his residence in New 
York Citj', he sought out his friend Pessenger at 
the Fly Market and traded with him exclusively. 
Henry Astor also became a butcher in the Fly 
Market. He made his purchases at the Bull's 
Head (on the site of the old Bowery Theater, now 
Thalia Theater), and brought them home in a wheel- 
barrow, and hours before daylight he was arranging 
his stock in a stall in the Fly Market. When his 
151 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

brother, John Jacob Astor, arrived in New York, 
Henry gave him his first stock in trade — a basket 
of trinkets — with which he traded for furs and skins 
on the vessels %vhich brought them to New York. 
There were famous farmers among the business men 
of the Fly Market, such as Henry Brevoort, whose 
notable tablet memorial is in the vestibule of Grace 
Church on Broadway; Henry Spingler, whose farm 
was north of Union Square, where the Spingler 
house stood for so manj' 3'ears; Nicholas Romaine, 
Lawrence Ulshofer, Yellis Mandeville and Gilbert 
Coutant. Other notable merchants of the market 
were William Wright, John Fink, Joseph O. Bog- 
art, William Mooney, John Lovell, Daniel Winship, 
Benjamin Cornell, and Cornelius Schujier. There 
were huckster women as well, who, in their way, 
were quite remarkable characters, like Arabella 
Truce, Mary Appleby, Caty Buyshe, Barbary Var- 
vosar and Abigail Doil. Grant Thorburn started 
the florist business in this market. 

In April, 1805, he saw a man for the first time 
selling flower-plants in the market. He wrote: "As 
I carelessly passed along I took a leaf, and rub- 
bing it between my fingers and thumb, asked him 
what was the name of it? He answered, 'A rose 
geranium.^ 1 looked a few minutes at the plant, 
thought it had a pleasant smell, and thought it 
would look well if removed into one of my green 
flower-pots, to stand on my counter to draw atten- 
tion. Next day some one fancied, and purchased 
plant and pot. Next day I went when the market 
152 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

was nearly over, judging the man would sell cheap- 
er, rather than have the trouble of carrying them 
over the river, as he lived at Brooklyn; and in 
those days there was neither steam nor horse-boats. 
Accordingly I purchased two plants, and having sold 
them, I began to think that something might be 
done this way, and so I continued to go at the 
close of the market, and always bargained for the 
unsold plants. The man, finding me a useful cus- 
tomer, would assist me to carry them home, and 
show me how to shift the plants out of his pots 
and put them into green pots, if my customers 
wished it. So I found by his tongue that he was 
a Scotchman, and being countrymen, we wrought 
to one another's hands; thus, from having one 
plant, in a short time I had fifty. 

"The thing, being a novelty, began to draw at- 
tention; people carrj^ng their country friends to see 
the curiosities of the City would step in to see my 
plants. In some of these visits the strangers would 
express a wish to have some of the plants; but, 
having so far to go, could not carry them. Then 
they would ask for the seeds, and also those of 
cabbage, turnip, or radish seeds, etc.; but here lay 
the difficulty, as no one sold seed in New York, 
not one of the farmers or gardeners saving more 
than what they wanted for their own use — there 
being no market for an overplus. In this dilemma, 
I told my situation to George Inglis, the man from 
whom I had always bought the plants in the Fly 
Market. He said he was now raising seeds, with 
153 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

the intention of selling them next spring, along 
with his plants in the market; but if I would take 
his seeds, he would quit the market, and sta}' at 
home and raise plants and seeds for me to sell. A 
bargain was immediately struck; I purchased his 
stock of seeds, amounting to fifteen dollars; and 
thus commenced a business on the l?th of Septem- 
ber, 1805, that became the most extensive of the 
sort in the United States." 

No man was more noted in New York than 
Thorburn — a wise, energetic little fellow, less than 
five feet tall, who became really a distinguished citi- 
zen. The business founded by him is still continued 
at Number 15 John Street, on the site of the first 
theater. Close by this old market, at the corner of 
Cliff and John Streets, lived a colored woman 
named Mary Simpson, who originated the observ- 
ance of Washington's birthday in New York City. 
She had been a slave in the family of General 
Washington, who set her free while living in New 
York. She opened a little store in the basement of 
her house, where she sold milk, butter, and eggs, 
with cookies, pies, and sweetmeats of her own manu- 
facture; and she also took in washing for several 
bachelor gentlemen who resided in the neighborhood. 
She never forgot her old master's birthday, nor did 
she want her friends or patrons to forget it, as 
that day was above all the holidays with her; and 
she kept it most faithfully, by preparing a very 
large cake, which she called "Washington Cake" 
(once a favorite of Washington), a large quantity 
154 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

of punch, then a fashionable drink, and hot coffee. 
These were nicely arranged upon a large table; then 
against the wall hung an old portrait of Washing- 
ton, and near it was displayed a small leather trunk, 
on which was marked the initials "G. W.," made 
of brass-head nails; both of which had been given 
to her by Washington himself. Every anniversary 
morning, some of the first men, old and young, 
paid a ceremonious visit to this much-respected col- 
ored woman, to eat her ""Washington Cake," drink 
her punch and coffee, praise her old master's por- 
trait, and his many noble and heroic deeds; and 
thus was passed every Washington's birthday until 
her death. She said she "was fearful that if she 
did not keep up the day by her display, Washing- 
ton would be soon forgotten." Mr. Thorburn, whom 
we have just mentioned, said, "When the yellow 
fever prevailed, people fled, and left their cats to 
starve; soon the hungry cats came howling round 
the dwellings of those whose doors were open. 
Mary Washington and her stout colored servant- 
girl went every morning with two large sacks to 
the butchers, who always cheerfully gave them as 
many sheep-heads as they could carry. On arriving 
home, they found fivescore and five starving cats 
waiting their return; straightway each with her 
hatchet split the skulls and scattered the brains, 
when the cats ate and were satisfied. I had full 
share of starving cats to provide for. The weather 
being hot, and the windows open, the cats came 
in. We were obliged to keep a woman with a stick 
155 



( 

THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

to sit by the table, while the servant was placing 
the food before us; every day I placed dishes on the 
sidewalks, and got many gallons of milk from the 
kind milkmen for the poor cats. Soon the cats found 
their wa}' up town, and got better quarters." (Thus 
began New York's back fence opera. AVhen the art- 
ists sing, please thank Mary and the Scotchman.) 
The market was a favorite place for the victualing 
of privateers, both in the Colonial period and dur- 
ing the War of 1812. During that war the market- 
men stood firmly for the war. There were many 
fishing smacks which brought their catches to the 
market, and in July, 1813, one of these smacks, 
the "Yankee," was fitted up for the purpose of 
capturing a British sloop named the "Eagle," which 
was cruising around Sandy Hook and capturing 
American trading vessels. This is the account of 
the engagement, published in the "Naval Monu- 
ment," 1836: 

"The fishing smack, named the 'Yankee,' was 
borrowed of some fishermen at Fly Market, in the 
city of New York, and a calf, a sheep, and a 
goose pvirchased, and secured on deck. Between 30 
and 40 men, well armed with muskets, were secreted 
in the cabin and forepeak of the smack. Thus 
prepared, she stood out to sea, as if going on a 
fishing trip to the banks, three men only being on 
deck, dressed in fishermen's apparel, with buff caps 
on. The 'Eagle,' on perceiving the smack, immedi- 
ately gave chase, and after coming up with her, 
loO 



V M:r -%•>.. 




UNITED STATES HOTEL, FULT(3N AND PEARL STREETS. 

Ni-« York. Vol. One, p. 160. 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

and finding she had live stock on deck, ordered her 
to go down to the commodore, then about five miles 
distant. The helmsman answered, Aye, aye, sir, and 
apparently put up the helm for the purpose, which 
brought him alongside of the 'Eagle,' not more 
than three yards distant. The watchword 'Law- 
rence' was then given, when the armed men rushed 
on deck from their hiding places, and poured into 
her a volley of musketry, which struck the crew 
with dismay, and drove them all down so precipi- 
tately into the hold of the vessel that they had 
not time to strike their colors. The 'Eagle,' with 
the prisoners, was carried to the city and landed 
at Whitehall, amidst the shouts and plaudits of 
thousands of spectators, assembled on the Battery, 
celebrating the 4th of July. 

"Henry Morris, commander of the 'Eagle,' was 
buried at Sandy Hook with military honors, and in 
the most respectful manner. Mr. Price, who died 
soon after, was buried in Trinity Churchyard, with 
every testimony of regard." 

In January, February, March and April, of 1816, 
there were sold in this old market 3,665 sheep, 
2,275 cattle, 3,822 calves and 669 hogs. The mar- 
ket was closed up on the 22d December, 1821. Some 
of the butchers held on to the last. David Sims 
was selling a piece of meat to a ship captain, and 
while weighing it a piece of the roof, loosened by 
those who were tearing down the market, fell down 
in the midst of the party and marked the last sale 
157 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

in the market, which had been a continuous mart 
for one hundred and twenty-three years. In a few 
years the space occupied by the market was built 
upon. The "tavern," at the intersection of Maiden 
Lane and Liberty Street, was erected two years 
after the tearing down of the market. Fulton 
Market is the successor of the Fly Market. Many 
of the Fly Market butchers moved directly to the 
new market, which was a great improvement upon 
the old one. There was one year when its stall- 
keepers had to flee from the yellow fever, as they 
had done before in the Fly Market. In 18:30 an 
Englishman named Fowler visited Fulton Market 
and said of it: "I have repeatedly visited it, and 
have no hesitation in saying that, for the richness 
and abundance of its supply, it surpasses any market 
I ever saw, especially in fruits and vegetables; and 
in fish, flesh and fowl there is every profusion and 
excellence. I have been frequently asked by my 
American friends whether I considered their beef 
equal to the roast beef of Old England, but I 
would confess myself not epicure enough to tell the 
difference." This part of the City was so desolated 
by the plague of yellow fever that vegetables grew 
in the streets. When the people came back they 
plucked beans and melons from plants which grew 
up out of the openings in the sidewalks in the 
roadways. 

When the privateers took their supplies from the 
Fly Market the papers were full of notices like 

these : 

158 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

"To all Gentlemen, Sailors and others, who have 
a mind to try their Fortunes on a cruizing Voy- 
age against the enemy; That the Brig 'Hester' and 
Sloop 'Polly' are now fitting out at New York in 
the best Manner; (under Command of Capt. Francis 
Rosewell and Capt. S. Bayard) the Owners of 
said Vessels being to find every Thing necessary for 
such an undertaking. The Brig is a fine new sin- 
gle Deck Vessell of 160 Tons, to mount 32 Guns, 
and to be mann'd with 120 Men; the Sloop is also 
new. Burthen 100 Tons, to mount 26 Guns, and be 
mann'd with 80 men; being both prime Sailers, and 
are to go in Company. Whoever inclines to go in 
either of said Vessels, may see the Articles at the 
house of Mr. Benjamin Kierstede, Tavern Keeper 
on the New Dock."— "Post Boy," Oct. 17, 1743. 

"Saturday last arrived here our two Privateers, 
the Brig 'Hester,' Capt. Bayard, and Sloop 'Polly,' 
Capt. Jefferies, with their Prize so much talk'd of, 
from Cape Fare; she is a beautiful Ship, almost 
new, of near 200 Tons, and laden chiefly with Co- 
coa: but we don't hear that the Pieces of Eight 
have been found, as was reported: After unload- 
ing her at Cape Fare, several of the Men took 
their shares and left the Vessels: It is said they 
share about 1,100 wt. of Cocoa per Man." — "Post 
Boy," June 11, 1774. 

Here is an advertisement from the New York 
"Gazette" of Oct. 3, 1737. 

''Moses Slaughter, Stay Maker, from London has 
brought with him a Parcel of extraordinary good 
159 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

and Fashionable Stays of bis own making of several 
sizes and Prices. 

"Tbe work of them be will warrant to be good, 
and for sbape inferior to none tbat are made. 

"He lodges at present at tbe bouse of William 
Bradford" (bere is our great printer!), "next Door 
but one to tbe Treasurer's near tbe Flj^ Market, 
wbere be is ready to suit tbose tbat want, witb 
extraordinary good stays. Or be is ready to wait 
upon any Ladys or Gentlewomen tbat please to 
send for him to tbeir Houses. If any desire to be 
informed of tbe work be bas done, let tbem enquire 
of Mrs. Elliston in tbe Broad Street, or of Mrs. 
Nicbols in tbe Broadway, wbo have bad bis work." 

Tbree blocks furtber we come to Fulton Street, 
wbere tbe elevated railroad and tbe United States 
Hotel bave made a sort of alliance offensive and 
defensive. Tbere tbe railroad must bave a station, 
and tbe old-fasbioned botel makes up for tbe dam- 
age wbicb it sustains by renting rooms for passage 
and for tbe sale of tickets, and by treating tbe 
tbrongs of passengers wbo go tbrougb its balls to 
tbe seductive odors of tbe kitcben and dining-room. 

From tbe "American Advertiser," 1851: 

UNITED STATES HOTEL, 
Cors. Fulton, Water and Pearl Sts., 

New- York. 

H. JOHNSON. Ppoprietor. 
This well-known and extensive Establishment bas 
recently undergone a complete renovation, been thor- 

100 



.NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

oughly painted throughout, and refurnished in such 
a manner as not to be inferior to any other Hotel 
in the City of New- York. Its location, being di- 
rectly in the center of the principal mercantile com- 
munity, affords to country merchants an opportunity 
of transacting their business whilst sojourning in the 
City, without being compelled to sacrifice much of 
their time as is the case in many instances. Thank- 
ful for the many favors extended to him during the 
past, the proprietor most respectfully asks a continu- 
ance of their hospitality, at the same time assuring 
them that every exertion on his part will be used 
to merit a continuance of their favors. Carriages 
belonging to the Hotel will be in readiness at all 
times to convey passengers to and from the differ- 
ent Hues of Steamboats and Railroads; or to any 
part of the City or its vicinity. — H. Johnson. 

At the time of this advertisement the hotel was 
eighteen years old. It was the pioneer of the 
"great" hotels of New York City and of America. 
It was considered a wonder, and its rates of a dol- 
lar and a half a day and upward were thought to 
be "high" and "exclusive." Its proprietor was 
named Holt, and the building was generally called 
"Holt's Folly," because the venture seemed too stu- 
pendous to succeed. The popular judgment was vin 
dicated by its failure, but the venture was renewed. 
Even at the time of the advertisement it was one 
of the sights of the City. At that time it was 
well supported by regular boarders, and was fre- 
quented by sea captains. 

The odd, discolored, ungainly observatory on the 
building was erected for the use of owners of ves- 
161 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

sels. These worthy people watched from the ob- 
servatory for the coming in of their ships; and 
daily the distant bay was scanned with telescopes 
by anxious and expectant merchants. 

The watchers in the old observatorj- received the 
first information of the safe arrival of ocean voy- 
agers; for there was no telegraph in those days to 
announce arrivals from Fire Island, and no means 
of communicating news quicker than the vessels 
could bring it. A bulletin was rigged up on the 
roof, and on it was spread the announcements which 
filled the merchants mth joy. Then it was that- 
New Yorkers learned the exquisite meaning of the 
famous phrase, "When our ship comes in." How 
many plans were laid by the good folks on the 
hope of their ship coming in! 

Only fift}- or sixty years have passed, but we 
have forgotten entirely the watchers in the old ob- 
servatorj'; and still we lay our plans and wait for 
our ship to come in, and to bring the golden 
means of fortune. 

New York has grown away from the old hotel, 
and has quite forgotten it. 

There are some old buildings on the south side 
of Fulton Street, opposite the market, with high- 
pitched roofs and tall chimneys, fastened together 
with iron rods, so that one will not jield to the 
wind unless all go. They were storehouses on the 
slip that ran up to the old hotel. As we cross 
the street we notice that the character of the stores 
changes. South of Fulton Street we had the ware- 
162 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 



houses and exchanges, the tobacco warehouses, the 
metal concerns — all indicating business enterprises of 
large size; but from Fulton Street northward there 
are many smaller establishments which plainly show 
their age. 

Numbers 276 and 306 Pearl Street are good ex- 
nmples of old-fashioned business establishments, and 
numbers of buildings are seen where the old-fash- 
ioned fancy roof windows appear, and the cornices 
and the lintels are of old pattern and are weather- 
beaten. 

From the "American Advertiser," 1851: 

CHAMBERLIN'S SALOON, 

310 Pearl Street. 
Bill of pare. 



SOUPS. 

s. 

Beef 

Mutton 

Chicken .... 

ROAST. 

Beef 

Lamb 

Veal 

Pork 

Mutton 

Roast Pig .... 1 

ROAST POULTRY. 

Turkey 1 

Goose . .... 1 
Chicken .... 1 

Duck 1 

16H 



IiXNER. 






BOILED. 




d. 




s. d. 


6 


Corned Beef . . 


6 


6 


" Pork . . 


6 


6 


" Ham . . 


6 




Ham .... 


6 


6 


Beef Tongue . . 


6 


6 


Mutton .... 


6 


6 


MADE DISHES 




6 


Pork and Beans . 


6 


6 


Veal Pie . . . 


6 




Beef Steak Pie . 


6 




Lamb Pie . . . 


6 




Mutton Pie . . 


6 




Clam Pie . . . 


6 




Oyster Pie . . . 


1 




Chicken Pot Pie . 


1 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

This was a famous restaurant and a great bill 
of fare. 

Franklin Square, at which we have arrived, is 
no stranger to tenement houses, and tenement houses 
of the lowest character; for that former center of 
respectability, so far as it has not been captured 
by business, has developed the worst slums of the 
entire City. We have read in histories of the fa- 
mous Walton House on Franklin Square, whose lux- 
urious appointments and costly furniture were the 
talk not only of New York, but of England also. 
We stand in front of Harper's great publishing- 
house, and under the rushing trains of the railroad, 
and we look in vain for any sign of such magnifi- 
cence. There are one or two dwellings, old in ap- 
pearance, and showing former respectability, and 
there are modern buildings opposite Harper's filled 
up with manufacturing concerns; but the Walton 
House, where is it — or where was it? Years ago, 
the grand people who lived in the mansion forsook 
it. In it was organized the first bank, the Bank 
of New York, in which Alexander Hamilton's mas 
terhand was felt. Little by little it yielded to the 
corrupting influences of the neighborhood, and with- 
in the memory of many New Yorkers it was a mis- 
erable, dilapidated tenement, overflowing with a 
squalid army of dirty, ragged children, and of par- 
ents to match. The building stood at about Num- 
ber 32G Pearl Street, and was burned down in the 
great fire which destroyed the Harper's establish- 
ment in 1853. 

164 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

The mansion was built bj' William Walton in 
1752. He was the first man called "Boss" in New 
York City. He died childless in 1768, and it passed 
to his nephew, William Walton, who joined the 
British cause in the Revolution. The Waltons stood 
in the very first ranks in business and society, and 
all that money and taste could accomplish were 
worked into this suburban residence, as it was then 
considered. The grounds extended to the river, and 
were beautifully developed. There was a strange old 
story connected with the house many years ago, the 
belief in which had something to do with its de- 
cadence. The house had become a boarding-house, 
and it was supposed that the Waltons were extinct; 
but there appeared a sea captain who claimed to be 
Guilford Walton, directly descended from the origi- 
nal William Walton. He professed a fondness for 
the old house, and hired rooms in it. He did not 
mix much in society, though he retained the respect 
of the many prominent people with whom he had 
become acquainted through his professed connection 
with the Walton family. 

He met a young lady who resided near the pres- 
ent Spring Street, Anna Barrington, and becoming 
greath' attached to her, began to make her regular 
visits. The walk between the Walton house and 
Kirtle Grove, Miss Barrington 's residence, was prin- 
cipally through Mulberry Street, then nothing but a 
rough path adjoining the Collect Pond. This walk 
at night was very lonely, and occasionally it hap- 
pened that Captain Walton had to return home 
165 



THE AMERICAX METROPOLIS 

at a late hour. On these occasions he was dogged 
by a mj^'sterious stranger, who followed him per- 
sistently, but would never allow himself to be close- 
ly observed. Sometimes the captain would turn and 
try to catch him, but he always failed. Soon a 
vague terror, at this unnatural visitation, possessed 
the captain's mind. Then Captain "Walton began to 
receive strange letters, signed "The Detective," warn- 
ing him to keep away from Mulberry Street. He 
did take a circuitous route in obedience to the let- 
ters, striking from Miss Barrington's house into the 
neighborhood of the present Hudson Street, turning- 
east at Vesey Street, and coming into Pearl Street 
through Pulton (then called Partition) Street. For 
a while it seemed as though he had shaken off his 
close attendant; but one night he realized the same 
presence while passing St. George's Chapel on Beek- 
man Street, and again, as before, he was unable to 
get away from his pursuer, or to see him clo.<ely. 
"The Detective" renewed his letter writing, and re- 
minded Walton that if his conscience w^ere clear lie 
would have nothing to fear. Captain AValton then 
recalled an incident in his early life which he had 
almost forced out of his mind. Though he under- 
took various methods to divert his thoughts the pres- 
ence continued to haunt his mind, until it seemed 
to him that he saw the figure continually. The 
famous Dr. Hosack was called to prescribe for the 
captain, who put several curious questions to him, 
as to the possibility of a man being restored to life 
when he had been pronounced dead by a surgeon. 
106 




OLD HOUSE, 2-,6 PEARL STKEET. 




OLD HOUSE, 300 PEARL STREET. 

New York, Vol. One, p. 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

After that an advertisement appeared in the "Com- 
mercial Advertiser," to the effect that if Godfrey 
Burton, formerly boatswain of the ship "Petrel" 
(Captain AValton's vessel), would apply to Edward 
King, 14 Wall Street, he would hear of something 
to his advantage. Shortly after that the captain, 
while walking home in the neighborhood of Duane 
Street and Broadway (where will be seen some of 
the oldest buildings on Broadwa}^), again met his 
pursuer, and this time face to face. Captain Wal- 
ton became more unsettled. He went to Dr. Mason, 
pastor of the Cedar Street Church, and sought for 
comfort, saying that he knew tnat retribution fol- 
lows guilt, and that he was haunted by a demon, 
who charged him with hideous crimes, and threat- 
ened him with vengeance. In deep agony he talked 
with Dr. Mason, who was moved by his sympathies 
almost into the same condition of terror. Some of 
Walton's friends saw his pursuer, believed that he 
was a mortal, and endeavored to seize him, but failed, 
Finalh^ this terror came to an end. One night Wal- 
ton's friends heard appalling groans and a strange 
voice in his room. They heai-d Walton say, "Oh, 
God! Oh, God!" several times, and then utter a 
scream of agony. They could hardly summon reso- 
lution to enter the chamber. They went in and 
pulled aside the bed curtains; and there, huddled 
up in one corner of the bed, with eyes fixed and 
staring, and mouth drawn with mingled horror and 
terror, was the old captain— lifeless; and on the 
foot of the bed was a mark as though some one 
167 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 



had stepped there. The mystery was never ex- 
plained. 

This is a fitting story for this neighborhood, 
where magnificence, grandeur, nobility and glory 
have been succeeded by squalor, poverty, vice and 
shame. 

There is a great contrast between this mighty 
printing and publishing 
house of Harper's and the 
first printing place of Brad- 
ford's, which we passed near 
the Stadthuij.s. It is but a 




^^*^*bu^€ 




Carriage C'uvi 



•s," Vol. 1. 



-"Harper's," Vol. 



short spa(^.e of time that separates them, and tlie trains 
on the elevated railroad cover the distance in five 
minutes. 

This contrast is hardly more striking than that 
which may be made between Harper's of to-day 
and Harper's of 1850. 

Here is the first volume of "Harper's New 
168 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

Monthly Magazine," issued in 1850, the pioneer of 
the monthlj^ magazines that so splendidly illustrate 
the development not only of our City, but of all 
the great cities of our land. 

In the editorial announcement the publishers say 
"They will spare neither labor nor expense in any 
department of the work; freely lavishing both upon 
the editorial aid, the pictorial embellishments, the 
typography, and the general literary resources; by 




Sugar Boiling.— "Harper's," Vol. 6. 

which they hope to give the magazine a popular 
circulation, unequaled by that of any similar period- 
ical ever published in the world." 

The first six months gave the magazine a circu- 
lation of 50,000 copies; but the boasted pictorial em- 
bellishments consisted almost entirely of fashion 
plates. 

The announcement in the second volume states 
that "the embellishments will be furnished by dis- 
tinguished artists, and selected, not less for their 
H-i 169 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 



permanent value, as vehicles of agreeable instruc- 
tion, than for the gratification of an aesthetic taste." 
Among the articles in the table of contents, so 
grandly announced, may be noticed these articles: 

Page 

Anecdotes of a Dog 97 

" "a Hawk 

" " Napoleon . 

" Serpents. . 
" " Wordsworth 



.x>i-'^^^ 




Deplorable Ignorance. 
Fast Youth— "Filthy weed, do j'ou call this! I should like to 
know where you have lived all your life not to know what a cigar 
is?"— '■Hari)er's," Vol. (5. 

Anecdotes of the dog, the hawk and the ser- 
pents are artistically and sesthetically mixed up with 
the antithetical characters of Napoleon and "Words- 
worth. Then we have the "Chapter on Bears," 
"Chapter on Dreams," "Chapter on Shawls," and 
170 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 



the "Chapter on Wolves." Then we have the 
"Death of a Goblin," and the "Death of How- 
ard." What the editors lacked in general topics 
they made up by their magnificent articles and 
plates on the fashions. wlnCh were divided into 



^' 



^- 




An American Methuselah. 

First Young Lady— "Cicy, dear, I want to introduce that tall gen- 
tleman to you. You'll like him, he's so talented. He's written a 
book." 

Second Young Lady— "No— no ! Anne, don't introduce him, he looks 
as old as the hills. Why, he's twenty-five if he's a day. And then 
look at his collar and his cravat — and (whispering) such pantaloons! 
Did you ever! He don't belong to our set at all." — "Harper's," Vol. 6. 

"Fashions for December," "Fashions for Early Win- 
ter," "Fashions for Later Winter," "Fashions for 
Early Spring," "Fashions for Spring," "Fashions 
for May." 

171 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

In the fifth volume was begun a series of picto- 
rial comicalities, which undoubtedly had their inspira- 
tion in the London "Punch." "Harper's" has im- 
proved, but "Punch" remains the samp. 




BIr. Smithers being sick sends for a lady doctress to attend upon him pro- 
fessionally. Being a singularly bashftil young man his pulse is greatly 
accelerated on being manipulated by the delicate lingers of the lady prac- 
titioner, whereupon she naturally imagines him to be in a high fever and 
incontinently physics him for the same —'•Harper's," Vol. 7. 

In volume six the })nblishers say that "they give 
the finest pictorial illustrations that a lavish expendi- 
172 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 



ture of money can command." This volume is nota- 
ble for its publication of "Bleak House." 

The original establishment and several adjacent 
buildings were destroyed by a terrible fire in 1853. 
Almost every engine in the City was on hand, and 




How TO Insure against Railway Accidents, 
Tie a couple of directors on every engine that starts with a train. 



The 



several fire companies came from Brooklyn. 
Harper's firm lost $800,000. 

Out of the ruins rose the present building, and 

enterprise so completely triumphed over disaster that 

the firm continued to lead the publishing concerns 

of the country. It is only within a few years that 

173 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 



they have been equaled or distanced. This old 
ure from volume -i is not unlike some that W( 
in these days. 

This splendid printing establishment is an 
monument to character and worth; another 
tration of the great development of our City, 



pict- 



other 

illus- 

aud 




A "Bloomer" (in leap year)— "Say 1 Oli, say, ilearest. you will be mine?" 

of the opportunities it has given to young men of 
energy and honor. 

James Harper, its founder, came to New York 
from a Long Island farm in 1810. Though very 
poor, he had been carefullj' brought up m a Meth- 
odist home, and he came to the Cit}' enjoying the 
benefits of good parentage and training. He became 
a printer's "devil," not far from the present great 
174 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

house. The young "bloods" of the neighborhood 
made fun of his shabby clothes, but he would not 
go into debt to purchase better garments. When 
his time was up he determined to start his own 
business; so, getting his brother John to join him, 
he opened a little room in Dover Street, and their 
first job was the printing of two thousand copies 
of Seneca's Morals for Evert Duyckinck. Soon they 
undertook to get out a stereotyped edition of the 
Prayer-book for the Episcopal Church. They found 
that they could not get the stereotyping done for 
them at such a price as to allow them to make a 
profit, so they did it themselves, and turned out 
the finest work that had then been seen. That put 
the young firm in the front. By degrees the hum- 
ble establishment was enlarged, and it moved on 
until it reached the first place among the publish- 
ing houses of the world, which it has steadily main- 
tained under the management of the various mem- 
bers of the Harper family, who have not fallen 
below the high positions established by James and 
John Harper. 

There was a fire in 1850 in Hague Street close 
by, which for terror and completeness of destruction 
has never been exceeded in our City. To this daj^ 
the residents of the neighborhood talk of the Hague 
Street explosion with expressions of horror. It was 
about eight o'clock in the morning of February 4th 
that an explosion at the factory, Numbers 5 and 7 
Hague Street, shook the adjoining buildings almost 
from their foundations, knocked down people who 
175 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 



■v^ere passing on the adjacent streets, smashed in- 
numerable windows, and frightened the people for 
many blocks. The buildings rose up from their 
base, and then split apart, and tumbled into ruins, 
while the fire darted up through the wreckage. A 
two-hundred horse-power boiler had exploded while 
over a hundred people were at work. The noise of 
the explosion and the falling building did not drown 
the screams of agony from the unfortunates 
who were buried in the burning ruin. For 
hours the firemen labored to rescue those whose 
moans directed them. The injured were taken 
into Dr. Trap- 
h a g e n ' s drug 
store, at 308 Pearl 
Street. Sixty-four 
persons were killed 
and forty-eight 
were badly in- 
jured. 

A few steps 
from the site of 

the Walton house Washingt.. . k....-,.., ...u^Un House. 

bring us to the land pier of the Brooklyn Bridge. 
Do we know how well founded that bridge is? 
There, near the corner of Franklin Square and 
Cherry Street, stood the "Walter Franklin mansion, 
which was the residence of George Washington when 
he was inaugurated as the first President. Daily 
lie made the journey from that corner to the Fed- 
eral Hall at Wall and Broad Streets. When we 
17G 




NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

look down Cherry Street and see the horrible char- 
acters who infest its tenement houses, many of which 
are the former mansions of New York's best citi- 
zens, we can hardly believe that we are in the 
right place. It does not seem possible that such 
awful degeneration should have come to a noble 
neighborhood. As we notice the doors and entrances 
of many of those houses, and entering them perceive 
the noble halls and high-ceiled rooms and the sim- 
ple but elegant old decorations, which remain in 
man}' places, we begin to realize that there has 
been a noble past in this home of crime. What 
a jubilant day it was when General Washington 
landed at Wall Street and was met and escorted 
by the City officials and the soldiers up through 
Pearl Street to his home, then unshaded by the 
Brooklj'n Bridge! The procession moved through 
Pearl Street, between solid masses of wildly shout- 
ing patriots crowded into the narrow passageway. 
The troops lined up on Cherry Street while the 
general entered his home. Three days after that 
he was escorted down Pearl Street into Broad Street 
and to the Federal building, there to take the oath 
of office as the first President. There have been 
many notable parades and demonstrations in this 
City; but there have been none which so fuUy em- 
bodied the elements of national progress as did that 
inauguration procession. In its front was the noble 
figure of our country's father, carrying in himself 
the destinies of a whole people. It was through 
this commonplace, dirty, noisy and uninteresting 
177 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

street, as it now is, that he went to start a new 
nation upon its great career. 

This procession had been preceded by one, onl}- 
a little less imposing and thrilling, wliich filled the 
people of New York with pride; for it commemo- 
rated the adoption of the Constitution, that was so 
largely the ^vork of her favorite son, Alexander 
Hamilton. This celebration occurred on July 23, 
1788. The projectors of the parade seemed to real- 
ize the significance of the occasion, and no previous 
parade had even approached it in the thoroughness 
with which it represented the Constitution and the 
people. The central figure in the pageant was a 
miniature ship called the "Hamilton," Avhich was 
intended to typify the Constitution. It was full- 
rigged and carried a crew of men who went through 
the process of furling and unfurling the sails as the 
vessel was drawn through the street. A battery of 
cannon fired salutes from the ship. The car on 
which it was draw^n was beautifully draped. By 
this exhibit, the Constitution was likened to a ship 
which would sustain and carry the nation. All of 
the important professions and trades were represented 
in the civic part of the parade, which followed a 
military division. The grand-marshal w^as Colonel 
Richard Piatt, and among his aides were Morgan 
Lewis, who subsequentl}' became governor of the 
State, and Nicholas Fish, father of Hamilton Fish. 
Among the farmers were Nicholas Cruger and John 
"Watts, each clad in conventional costume. The So- 
ciety of the Cincinnati occupied a place. There were 
178 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

bakers, shoemakers, brewers, coopers, tailors, tan- 
ners, butchers, carpenters — all in the costume of their 
trades. The judges and lawj^ers were in a promi- 
nent place, and bore with them an engrossed copy 
of the new Constitution. Professors, students, doc 
tors, merchants, bank ofl&cers, and clergymen were 
in line. There was even a division for strangers. 
The procession was nearly two miles long, and it 
didn't stop marching until it reached the place of 
refreshment, on Nicholas Bayard's farm, in the re^ 
gion above Grand Street and west of Broadway, 
where provision had been made for six thousand 
persons. The procession formed along Broadway, 
but was not in full swing until it reached Great 
Dock Street (included within the present Pearl Street 
at the Battery). When the ship passed Beaver Street 
going down, it was boarded by a pilot, who went 
out to it in a row boat carried on a float. The 
"Hamilton's" first salute was fired at Bowling 
Green, and while passing Old Slip in Pearl Street 
she responded to the guns of a Spanish war vessel 
lying in the East River. The celebration was re- 
markable in showing the unanimity of all the peo- 
ple in all occupations in accepting the Constitution 
and in giving it their heartiest support. Ratifica- 
tion of the instrument had been obtained with great 
difficulty; but this magnificent demonstration showed 
the decision of the people to accept and loyally sup- 
port the national bond, and the enthusiasm of New 
York spread throughout the Union. 

The house in which Washington began his oflfi- 
IT'J 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

cial career as our first President was a small, sim- 
ple dwelling, and was uncomfortably crowded by 
his family, his attendants, and the throng of the 
great men of the new nation, who were constantly 
visiting the President. There the first levees were 
held (on Tuesdays), and Mrs. Washington had her 
"drawing-rooms" (on Friday nights). The ceilings 
were so low that one of the guests, Miss Mclvers, 
brought the feathers of her head-dress in contact 
with the chandelier, and they caught fire. The 
greedy blaze was gallantly extinguished by Major 
Jackson. Washington kept a diary, in which he 
made entries like these: 

"The visitors this evening to Mrs. Washington 
were respectable, both gentlemen and ladies." 

"The visitors to Mrs. Washington this afternoon 
were not numerous but respectable. In the evening 
a great number of ladies and many gentlemen visited 
Mrs. "Washington." 

During the President's residence in Cherry Street 
he suffered a serious and dangerous illness from a 
malignant carbuncle, which at one time seemed in- 
curable. Dr. Bard attended him, and directed a 
necessary operation. He sail to his assistant: "Cut 
away— deeper; don't be afraid. See how well the 
President bears it." At one time Washington asked 
the physician about his chances, saying: "Do not 
flatter me with vain hope. I am not afraid to die, 
and therefore can bear the worst. Whether to-night 
or twenty years hence makes no difference; I know 
that I am in the hands of a good Providence." 
180 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

The accommodations of the house were inade- 
quate to the business that had to be done, which 
was the reason for the President's removal to Num- 
ber 39 Broadway. In the Cherry Street house, three 
secretaries had to sleep in one room, and one of 
them murdered the sleep of the others by reciting 
poetry which he composed in the small hours of 
the night. Colonel Post, who lived in it for a num- 
ber of years while a child, prided himself upon 
having occupied the same rooms "in which slept 
Washington and his wife, as also the great De 
Witt Clinton." He said: "It was a handsome old 
house, with thick walls, richly carved staircase, deep 
window seats, wainscoted partitions, and open fire- 
places quaintly tiled with blue India china. The 
wall-paper in the second hall was of never failing 
interest to us children, with its gay pictures of men 
and women of full size, walking in beautiful gar- 
dens, sitting by fountains with parasols, or sailing 
on lakes with guitars or flutes in their hands." 

There is nothing finer than this at 58th Street 
and Fifth Avenue ! 

This advertisement appeared in the New York 
"Packet," May 7, 1789: 

"r/?e President's Household. — Whereas all ser- 
vants and others employed to procure provisions or 
necessaries for the household of the 'President' of 
the United States will be furnished with monies 
for these purposes. Notice is therefore given^ that 
no accounts, for the payment of which the public 
181 



THE AMERICAX METROPOLIS 

might be considered as responsible, are to be opened 
with any of them. 

"Samuel Fraunces, Steivard of the Household.'''' 

In the month of December following there ap- 
peared this announcement : 

"A Cook is wanted for the President of the 
United States. No one need apply who is not per- 
fect in the business, and can bring indubitable testi- 
monials of sobriety, honesty, and attention to the 
duties of the station." 

Then, on December 19th, this was printed: 
"A Coachman, who can be well recommended 
for his skill in driving, attention to horses, and for 
his honest}', sobriety, and good disposition, would 
find employment in the famil}' of the President of 
the United States. ' ' 

The President's habits were very simple. "His 
dining hour was four, when he always sat down to 
his table, only allowing five minutes for the varia- 
tion of time-pieces, whether his guests were present 
or not. It was frequentl}' the case with new mem- 
bers of Congress that they did not arrive until din- 
ner was nearly half over; and he would remark: 
'Gentlemen, we are punctual here; my cook never 
asks whether the company has arrived, hut ivh ether 
the hour has.'' " His diet was simple and plain. 
He seldom partook of more than one dish. Judge 
Wingate, who was one of his guests, described his 
first dinner after his inauguration. "The guests con- 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

sisted of the Vice-President, the foreign Ministers, 
the heads of Departments, the Speaker of the House 
of Representatives, and the Senators from New- 
Hampshire and Georgia, the then two most North- 
ern and Southern States. It was the least showy- 
dinner that I ever saw at the President's table, 



Present usage, state and environment of the coach 
of General Washington. 

and the company was not large. The President 
made his whole dinner on a boiled leg of mutton. 
It was his usual practice to eat of but one dish. 
After the dinner and dessert were finished, one 
glass of wine was passed round the table, and no 
toast. The President arose, and all the company, of 
course, and retired to the drawing-room, from which 
183 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

the guests departed, as every one chose, without 
ceremony," 

William J. Davis related this anecdote of Sam- 
uel Fraunces, who was always anxious to provide 
thf first dainties of the season for the general'r 
table: "It appears that Sam, ou making his pur- 
chases at the old Fly Market, observed a fine shad, 
the first of the season; he was not long in making 
the bargain, and it was sent home with his other 
purchases. Next morning it was dulj- served up in 
Sam's best stj'le for the general's breakfast. The 
general, on sitting down to the table, observed the 
fish, and asked Sam what it was. He replied that 
'it was a fine shad.' 'It is very early in the sea- 
son for them,' rejoined the general. 'How much did 
j'ou paj' for it?' 'Two dollars,' said Sam. 'Two 
dollars! I can never encourage this extravagance at 
my table,' replied Washington. 'Take it awa.y; I 
will not touch it!' The shad was accordingl}' re- 
moved, and Sam, who had no such economical 
scruples, made a hearty meal on the fish at his 
own table." 

At the angle where Pearl Street runs northward 
from Cherry Street was Cow Foot Hill. From the 
foot of this hill Cherry Street ran out, parallel with 
the river, to and into Colonel Rutger's estate. 
Never has there been a more beautiful street in 
our City than the old Cherry Street, especiall\' that 
part of it which was called Cherry Hill. As the 
name tells us, fragrant cherry trees abounded, and 
the gentle slope toward the river was covered with 
184 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

rich vegetation. Those who loved such sweet and 
beautiful surroundings built comfortable homes there, 
many of which remain in the degraded neighbor- 
hood, making their silently eloquent complaint of 
the course of events which has transformed para- 
dise into hell. "Washington Irving said, "The more 
proudly a mansion has been tenanted in the day of 
its prosperity, the more humble are its inhabitants 
in the day of its dechne, and the palace of ihe 
king becomes the resting place of the beggar." So 
it is in Cherry Street. Through arched doorways, 
and between classic pillars, with simple elegant orna- 
mentation, the passer-bj^ sees vile and wretched peo- 
ple, and disgusting sights of squalor and depravity. 
We can hardly believe that, in these rooms, now 
occupied by whisky -soaked brawlers, and ringing 
with blood-curdling oaths, once lovely women and 
noble men engaged in chaste converse, and enjoyed 
sweet music and rhythmic poetry; that in these ken- 
nels of the criminal and vicious, the purest and the 
bravest dwelt in refined luxury; that through these 
doorways, now defiled with human filth, and crowded 
with the most worthless people of the City, women 
arrayed in silks, and men dressed in honored uni 
forms, passed in and out. Xor can we easily be- 
lieve that this hot - bed of violent crime was the 
home of the peace-loving Quakers. The decadence 
of Cherry Street began many years ago, when the 
influx of immigration gradually but surely forced the 
old residents to the northward. It is not easy now 
to find traces of the oldest occupants of Cherry 
185 



THE AMERICAX METROPOLIS 

Hill and the builders of the splendid old houses that 
still remain. It is easier to learn of those who suc- 
ceeded the original inhabitants. Some interesting 
recollections still remain. John Hancock lived at 
Number 5 Cherry Street. Number 7, now demol- 
ished, was the first house in the City to be sup- 
plied with illuminating gas. Number U was the 
original naval rendezvous. Number 15 was a branch 
naval rendezvous. Number 23 was formerly known 
as "The Well," and was the favorite resort of the 
captains of privateers in the War of 1812, where 
they originated the "beefsteak party." From 1862 
to 18(34: it was the headquarters of the supervisors 
of Westchester County for the providing of substi- 
tutes to fill up the quota of drafted men for the 
war. Number 24 was the birthplace of William M. 
Tweed, whose father's chair factorj^ was at Number 
3. At Numbers 29 and 29i were quartered the staff- 
officers of General Washington. At Niunber 27 
Cherry Street lived Captain Samuel Chester Reid, 
and there he designed the present plan of the Ameri- 
can flag. To-day the building is a great tenement, 
and the lower part of it is a typical Cherry Street 
gin-mill, kept by John McAllister, who has been 
there these thirty j-ears past, and knows Cherry 
Street through and through. McAllister has pros- 
pered, though his customers are poor and rough. 
One need not fear to enter, though he will prob- 
ably see men about the place that he would not 
like to meet alone on a dark night. The visitor 
will be interested in the system of peepholes and 
186 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

cubbies between the store and the hallway; but he 
need not fear panel games or trap-doors. That is 
simply an arrangement to facilitate the consumption 
of beer by the Cherrytown hosts on Sunday. Mr. 
McAllister says that when he took the building, thirty 
years ago, the first floor was laid out in noble, grand 
rooms, and the building had a sloping roof; but 




he transformed the lower rooms into a* saloon, and 
changed the sloped roof into the present square roof. 
The hallways are high, and the rooms over the store 
are remarkable for their size, height, trimmings, and 
general arrangement. There are marble mantels, 
which were certainly no part of any modern tene- 
ment house. We told Mr. McAllister the story of 
187 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

Captain Reid, and advised him to make a fortune 
by a judicious advertisement of his place; but it 
was very evident that he thought his visitors were 
Parkhurst spies, who were "filling him up with a 
ghost story." Do we remember who Captain Reid 
was that lived in this house, Number 27 Cherry 
Street? In 1814, when he was thirty years old, he 
was the commander of the privateer "General Arm- 
strong," which was owned by several New York 
merchants, She carried seven guns and ninety men. 
She ran the blockade of the English fleet at Sandj- 
Hook, and when she reached Fayal, in the Azore 
Islands, she put in for supplies. At that time ar- 
rangements were being made by the ' English forces 
for the capture of New Orleans, and a fleet of six 
ships, commanded by Admiral Lloyd on board the 
74-gun ship "Plantagenet," on its way to join in 
the operation, stopped at Fayal for the same pur- 
pose that had induced Reid to anchor. Although it 
was a neutral port, belonging to the Portuguese gov- 
ernment, the British commander determined to seize 
the little American privateer, for use in the expedi- 
tion. He had the force to accomplish the capture, 
at least he thought he had, and he did not permit 
a little matt^ like the neutrality of the port to in- 
terfere with his project. When night came on, a 
fleet of small boats filled with soldiers and sailors 
undertook the capture of the "General Armstrong," 
notwithstanding the protest of the Portuguese author- 
ities; but Captain Reid was ready, and he repelled 
the attacking force, inflicting great loss of life. He 
188 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

knew that a strong- flotilla would be sent against 
him, and he prepared for it. Presently fourteen 
rowboats, filled with picked men, and commanded 
by the principal officers of the fleet, dashed out 
from the shelter of a cove, and an attempt was 
made to board the "Genei-al Armstrong" from all 
sides at once. The Portuguese fort could do nothing 
without injuring the American vessel, so it remained 
quiet. Captain Reid's little force was hard beset. 
It was all that he and his ninety men could do 
to beat back the hundreds of brave men who tried 
to clamber up on the vessel. Reid fought with the 
best of his men, and his personal prowess made 
them giants like himself. There was forty minutes 
of the fiercest fighting, which ended with the de- 
feat of the English, of whom about three hundred 
were killed and wounded. The rowboats were filled 
with the dead and dying, and some of them drifted 
on shore, because there was no one to row. Tiie 
night had been consumed in these operations, and 
when daylight came the English ships moved in to 
destroy the "Armstrong," which they could not 
capture intact. The "Carnation" began the battle, 
but soon her topmasts and yards were shot away 
by the "General Armstrong's" fire, and she was 
forced to draw ofl:. Then the other vessels closed 
in together, and concentrated their fire on the "Arm- 
strong." The American's principal cannon, "The 
Long Tom," became disabled, and Captain Reid 
saw that his vessel was doomed; so he cut away 
her masts, blew a hole through her bottom, sank 
189 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

her, and retreated to the shore. The admiral threat- 
ened to bombard the city unless the American sail- 
ors were surrendered. Reid marched out and took 
possession of a convent, where he prepared to ad- 
minister some more annihilation to his assailants. 
The certainty of a hot reception appealed to the 
judgment of the English commander, who drew off 
with a badly crippled force. He had to send a 
large number of his men home to England because 
of the severity of their wounds, and his fleet was 
delayed nearly two weeks by the casualties among 
his officers and the reduction of his force. The ren- 
dezvous of vessels for the investment of New Or- 
leans was delayed, and General Jackson gained 
valuable time for the preparation of his thrilling 
defense. Captain Reid's large contribution to Jack- 
son's success was very plain. His glory was ac- 
knowledged in England, and he was lionized in 
America; and when he and his sailors reached New 
York the whole city turned out to welcome him. 
Number 27 Cherry Street was his residence, and, as 
we have said, there, he devised the plan of show- 
ing the number of the States by the arrangement 
of the stars from time to time, while the thirteen 
stripes remain to indicate the original States. When 
he died his remains were carried from his residence to 
a tomb in Greenwood Cemetery. He was port warden, 
and President of the Marine Society, and many were 
his services to the shipping interests of the City. 

But how Cherr}^ Street has fallen! On the very 
spot where this hero lived, and all New York de- 
190 



5 I 

c 'f- 




NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

lighted to honor him, for thirty years has lived a 
man who has made a competence out of the vicious 
appetites of the Cherry Street throngs, and he never 
heard of Captain Reid! 

We never grow tired of exploiting the growth, 
the progress, and the achievements of New York; 
but we have ver}' little to say about the backward 
growth, which is so plain on Cherry Street, and in 
many other parts of the City. 

In Captain Reid's time there were no such things 
as vicious tenement houses and the slum districts. 
These have come to us with our growth — our ad- 
vancing civilization. That they have invaded those 
districts which are rich in historical associations and 
full of patriotic memories, until they have blotted 
out the knowledge of the noble characters who once 
lived there, and the noble deeds that were once 
done there, is a proof of the carelessness that has 
distinguished our citizens concerning those things 
which are calculated to preserve the moral tone of 
the people and to lay foundations of progress by 
the inculcation of civic pride. 

These are some of the residents of Cherry Street 
one hundred years ago: 

Number 

2 Melancthon Smith, merchant. 
4 Drowley & Drawbridge, merchants. 
11 Gilbert G. Willet, merchant. 
IG Francis Dominick, merchant. 
17 Mrs. Chiffifala, boarding-house. 
19 Nathaniel Gardener & Jonathan Thomp- 
son, merchants. 
191 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

20 John Patten, blacksmith. 

22 Willet Taylor, physician. 

23 Jotham Post. 

25 John Bleecker, auctioneer. 

34 John Delanoy. 

35 Flamen Ball, lawyer, 

37 Timothy Titus, boarding-house. 

38 Archibald Kearley, judge. 

41 Philip K. Lawrence, tanner. 

42 James Cocks, merchant. 

43 Garrick, merchant. 

46 George Nichols, shipmaster. 

50 Henry Mead, surgeon. 

52 Joseph Laughton, shipmaster. 

54 John A. Gr^-ham, physician. 

55 Joseph Dickson, shipmaster. 

56 Lucretia Williams. 

60 Abraham Skinner, lawyer. 

62 Robert Bogardus, lawyer. 

65 Alexander Lamb, fruit dealer. 

68 Nathaniel Clark, merchant. 

70 Valentine Seaman, M.D. 

74 Joseph Thomson, baker. 

75 Thomas Donovan, millstones. 

76 Mary Malconi, boarding-house. 
87 John Griggs, ironmonger. 

91 Elijah Coit, merchant. 

93 Timothy F. Wetmore, physician. 

101 William Bartlett, druggist and physician. 

102 Walter Franklin, flour merchant. 

103 John Townsend, flour merchant. 

105 John Franklin, merchant. 

106 Lemuel Bruce, boat-builder. 

117 Thomas I. Berry, merchant. 

118 Andrew Garr, ship builder. 

119 Simon Skillings, carver. 

192 



NEW YOKK CITY LIFE 

120 William Veal, boat builder. 
125 James Drake, merchant. 
131 Thomas Whittemore, card manufacturer. 
135 Chas. Tillinghast, deputy collector of cus- 
toms. 
137 Daniel Kingsland, ship-joiner. 

We will leave Cherry Hill for another visit and 
make our way back to the old Fort. Passing west- 
ward through Frankfort Street, alongside the Brook- 
lyn Bridge, the pier of which stands entirely 
on Governor Leisler's farm, we cross the various 
streets which run through the Swamp and are con- 
tinued under the arches of the Brooklyn Bridge. 
From Jacob to Gold Street we walk through the 
original Swamp, covered now by great buildings 
filled with hides in various conditions of prepara- 
tion. The swamp, which was called Beekman's 
Cripple Bush, was leased to Rip Yan Dam at 
twenty shillings a year. It extended from Frank- 
fort Street south across Ferry Street (so called be- 
cause it led to the spot where the first Long Isl- 
and ferr}^ ran), and from Cliff Street across Gold. 
In 1744 it was sold to Jacobus Roosevelt for two 
hundred pounds. He divided it into lots and sold 
them to tanners. The tanners and shoemakers came 
to the front early in the colony days, and by de- 
grees were pushed out of the growing City because 
of the nuisance of the tanneries. They first settled 
in the neighborhood of John Street, where they 
owned a large tract of land together. John Street 
was named after the leading member of the trade, 
l-i 193 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

John Haberding. They owned the land up to the 
Beekman pastures, the south Une of which was a 
httle north of Fulton Street. The City grew up to 
them, and again they were pushed out, and they 
located out of town, about the Cripple Bush Swamp, 
and there they stayed, and their successors are there 
to-day, maintaining one of the greatest industries of 
our downtown life. The ground is still low, soft 
and wet, and the buildings rest on spiles. 

At the northeast corner of Frankfort and Wil- 
liam Streets was the Carleton House, recently torn 
down. This house had its good days. Dickens 
stayed there and Poe lived there. Those days 
passed away, and then it had mysteries. As time 
moved on its reputation grew bad, and many hor- 
rible tales were told about it. These tales received 
shocking confirmation in 1884, when workmen were 
cleaning out the sub-cellar, and they unearthed from 
the ashes and rubbish the moulderiug skeleton of a 
woman, around whose neck was a strangling band 
of calico, and over whose face was a great stone. 
It was surely a murder, and suspicion pointed to 
an Englishman named Benjamin Gray, who was 
found in the Trenton Prison, under a sentence for 
an attempt to murder another woman. The Carle- 
ton House case could not be proved against him. 
Later the house gained a humble decency b}- the 
patronage of broken-down newspaper men, who lived 
there in old-time relationship, and discussed their 
younger days with so much vigor and sense as to 
attract the attention of literary men wht) went there 

I'.'J: 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

occasionally, in disguise, to listen to the old boys. 
This curious old house succeeded the Lutheran 
Church, which was built in 1767, and about which 
was a graveyard in which were interred a number 
of the Hessian oflScers in the English army. 

Here is an advertisement from the "Weekly Post 
Boy," Dec. 10, 1744: 

''''John Brown, lately married to the widow 
Breese, continues to carry on the Leather Dressers 
Trade at the Dwelling House of the late John 
Breese in the Smith's Fly, near Beekman's Swamp 
or Creple-Bush; at the South end of the house a 
Staff is erected with a vane on the Top of it: He 
sells all sorts of Leather and Leather Breeches, also 
AUum, Glew, raspt and chipt Logwood and Red- 
wood fit for dyeing, and Copperas, all at Reasonable 
Rates." 

We reach Printing House Square, and stand for 
a moment beneath the monstrous "AVorld" building, 
and close to the stream of travel that pours over 
the Bridge. 

Frankfort Street, between the "World" and the 
"Sun" buildings, is the place in which to see the 
newsboy at his best and his worst. Here in the 
afternoons are crowded hundreds of little fellows, of 
all nationalities, types and dispositions, intent upon 
just one thing— getting their papers as quickl}' as 
possible and starting off for the various places which 
they have pre-empted. The rivalry and competition 
among them is as strong as among the merchants 
and the eager men of Wall Street, and the same 
195 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

dispositions are manifested; only without the tact, 
the finesse, and the politeness of more select circles. 
Often the weaker and smaller ones are pushed to 
the wall; but here and there appear those kinder 
and nobler ones, who dehght to lend their strength 
and i)rotection to those who need them. A great 
many of these boys are alone in the world, mak- 
ing their way with heroic resolution and persever- 
ance, and hoping for better times; others are the 
support in part or in whole of families whose mem- 
bers must unite in the work of driving the wolf 
from the door; others there are who have' been car- 
ried by the current of circumstances into the selhng 
of newspapers, and who go with the tide; and 
there are httle thieves and desperadoes, growing up 
with every inchnation to recruit the criminal ranks. 
It is a hard school and a hard hfe for these httle 
fellows, and those who come out of it with good 
characters, to advance into higher places in the 
world, are heroes. The helping hand is extended 
to these boys in very practical ways. The News- 
boy's Lodging House, which is close by, in Da- 
ane Street, funiishes clean and safe accommoda- 
tions and subsistence for those who will avail them- 
selves of its privileges, and its work is done in such 
a way as' to develop manliness in the boys. They 
pay their way, even though the prices are small. 
This spot is an important field for the study and 
the activity of those who believe that the time to 
make good citizens is in youth, and that the gov- 
ernment should look after the children. 
196 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

Looking across the Common, now the City Hall 
Park, we are impressed with the great buildings 
which have been reared on every hand. It has 
taken us but a few moments to leave the wretched 
haunts of poverty and vice and to find ourselves in 




Engine Co. No. 35, 1809, Tryon Row, City Hall Square. 

this very maelstrom of human currents. It is full 
of historic associations, no less impressive than the 
neighborhood which we have left. Here in front of 
us, where Franklin's statue stands, is the spot where 
Governor Leisler and his son-in-law Milbourne were 
hanged and buried. 

It was down through the Boston Road (at this 
point, Chatham Street or Park Row) that the courier 
dashed, turning into Broadway at the lower end of 
the post-office, shouting the news of the Battle of 
Lexington; and through this street all of the travel 
moved between New York and New England. The 
197 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

first post that started out from the uortheastern cor- 
ner of the old Fort for Connecticut and Massachu- 
setts passed through this road. Notice this announce- 
ment: "Any person that has a Mind to go Post to 
Alljany this "Winter may appl}' to the Post Master of 
New York on Saturday next at Ten in the morn- 
ing."— N. Y. "Gazette," Nov. 17o2. 

Through it Governor Stuyvesant rode to reach 
his bowerie, and as other of the colonists built their 
residences along the road, it began to be much trav- 
eled. It is the oldest road out of the old City, and 
had its origin in an Indian trail. 

The "Sun" building is strangely out of place 
among the towering newspaper buildings that sur- 
round it, and it seems a pity that the corner can- 
not be thrown into the incomplete "Tribune" build- 
ing; but the hostility that has existed between those 
two newspapers for many 3-ears prevents any such 
arrangement. It is but a few years ago that there 
was a bitter litigation between the proprietors of the 
two buildings concerning a great stone which had 
been laid in the northern foundation wall of the 
"Tribune" building, far below the surface of the 
street, and which projected across the line of the 
"Sun" building, although below its foundation. If 
the plans of the "Sun" owners have been truly an- 
nounced, some day there will stand upon the site 
of the little red biiilding a towering edifice that will 
look down even on the "World's" dome. 

The "Tribune" building was the first of the 
many tower buildings in the lower part of the City, 
lit 8 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 



and when it was erected it was the wonder and 
the pride of Printing House Square. Many were 
the envious cuts at the editor of the "Tribune" bj- 
those less fortunate editors who 
could not compose their edi- 
torials on such a lofty plane. 
One we recollect very well, 
which accounted for the stop- 
page of the clock by describing 
how (Reid) the young editor of 
the tall tower, while his brain 
was burning with the fever of 
the glowing thoughts which he 
was working into his editorials 
for the next day, thrust his head 
out of the window in his sanc- 
tum, which was in the face of 
the clock; but thrust it out in 
such an inopportune moment as 
to be caught on the back of his 
neck by the descending minute 
hand, which pinned him fast 
against the window-sill, and held 
him, despite his struggles, until 
daylight came, and he was re-j- 
leased by the office-boy. It 
seems but a very few years' 

„ ,1 J. /I • •! 1 ,1 1 .IT Sheridan SHOOK the foundation of 

ago that this oil-cloth building, the tower of strength ot the 

as it was called, was erected; Republican. party. 

but at that time there was no Brooklyn Bridge, no 
elevated railroad, no "World" building, no Franklin 

199 




THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

statue, no cable cars. The beautiful "Times" build- 
ing had not been reared, and those startling, though 
majestic, buildings across Broadway had not been 
dreamed of. "We cannot overestimate the strides 
which have been made in the material improvement 
of the City during these last few years. It is not 
very many years ago that the post-office building 
was not in existence, and the City Hall Park ex- 
tended to St. Paul's Church, and was fenced in 
like a rural park. 

The street railroads occupying this thoroughfare 
were the first that were operated in the City. Jolin 
Stevenson, who built nearly all of the cars in the 
earlier period of horse railroads, died only two or 
three years ago; and some of the original projectors 
of these horse car systems, which spread all over 
the country, and in our City are only just begin- 
ning to yield to the trolley and the cable car, are 
still living. 

"When there was no post-office, and the trees of 
the City Hall Park bowed to the trees in St. Paul's 
Churchyard, two beautiful church spires, long asso- 
ciated with the graceful steeple of St. Paul's, de- 
lighted the eyes of the people. 

The Presbyterian Brick Church, surrounded by 
its graveyard, was where the "Times" building 
now stands, and at Beekman and Cliff • Streets was 
St. George's Chapel, the artistic appearance of which 
was the pride of the people, regardless of creed. 

On Park Row, north of Ann Street, was the 
Park Theater, the first important playhouse in the 
200 



I 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

City, which was built in 1798, burned down in 
1820, rebuilt, and burned again in 1849. Theater 
Alley, between Park Row and Nassau Street, ran 
along the rear of the theater. 

The "Tribune" building and Horace Greeley's 
statue occupy the place where the Tammany Society 
was first housed in a permanent wigwam; and while 
Tammany occupied that spot and the one adjoining 




Fubt Taninianj Hall 

it, it contained patriots of whom the City was 
justly proud. While there was bitter conflict be- 
tween Tammany's people and the Federalists, the 
contest was one of principle, Tammany representing 
the ideas of Jefferson, and the Federalists owning 
the guidance of Hamilton. 

On the Spruce Street corner stood Martling's Tas'- 
ern, and there the Columbian order made its home 
in 1798. The FederaHsts called it the ''Pig Pen''-, 
201 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 



but that did not prevent the leading Democrats, 
headed by the first governor, George Clinton, from 
making headquarters there. 

In 1812 the society built its hall on the site of 
the "Sun" building, and there they remained until 
18G7, when they moved to their present disgraced 
headquarters in 14th Street. 

The old Society held a banquet on October 17, 
1792 (before it had settled down at Martling's), to 

commemorate the dis- 
covery of America. 
These were the toasts 
which were proposed 
by patriots and re- 
sponded to by those 
whose lives had proved 
their devotion to their 
coimtry's cause. "The 
memory of Christopher 
Columbus, the discov- 
8 r e r of this New 
World never experi- 
ence the vices and miseries of the old; and may 
it be a happy asylum for the oppressed of all 
nations and of all religions." "May peace and 
liberty ever pervade the United Columbian States." 
"May this be the last centenary festival of the 
Columbian order that finds a slave on this globe." 
"May the fourth century be as remarkable for 
the improvement and knowledge of the rights of 
man as the first was for the discovery and the im- 
202 




Second Tammany Hall. 

World." " May the New 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

provement of iiautic science." "May the deliverers 
of America never experience that ingratitude from 
their Countrj' which Cohimbus experienced from his 
King/' "May the genius of Liberty, as she has 
conducted the sons of Cohimbia with glory to the 
commencement of the fom'tli century, guard their 
fame to the end of time," According to the record 
of the daj-'s doings, "during the evening's entertain- 
ment a variety of rational amusements were en- 
joyed." 

In 1700 President Washington made a practical 
use of the mummery of the Society, which was 
taken in good part, and which even put an addi- 
tional feather into its head-dress. There had been 
war with the Creek I'ldians, and a number of the 
leading warriors had been induced to meet the Presi- 
dent at New York, in the hope of arranging a 
treaty. The Tammany braves had a full assortment 
of Indian costmnes and an unlimited supply of paint, 
pipes and fire-water, and they received the Indians 
in full costume. 

The Indians enjoyed the occasion immensely, 
accepted the show as an honor, and made the 
treaty. 

In those days and later, Tammany furnished 
amusement to the populace and delighted the small 
boj^s by having bonfires in the City Hall Park, 
around which they danced in Indian dress, scalp- 
ing various eflfigies, such as Benedict Arnold, and 
consigning their bodies to the flames. 

In later days Halleck wrote: 
203 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

"There's a barrel of porter in Tammany Hall, 

And the Bucktails are swigging it all the night long. 
In the time of my childhood 'twas pleasant to call 
For a seat and cigar 'mid the jovial throng." 

What a precocious child Halleck must have been! 

In 1820, De Witt Chnton wrote in a letter to a 
friend, "The Tammany Horse rides through the 
Legislature hke a wild ass's colt." 

On every fourth of July a celebration is held 
in the 14th Street Hall; but there is such a con- 
trast between the lofty sentiments of some of the 
speakers (for some of the braves speak in good En- 
glish), and the ill fame of the Tammany leaders 
and heelers of these days, that it is easily the 
most hollow and incongruous performance of the 
year. 

There is a great difference between the spectacle 
of the "Silver-tongued" Orator pouring out glittering 
jewels of speech upon a throng of unwashed and 
unkempt patriots, who grow frantic with approval 
when the eloquent speaker falls into some naturally 
foul fling at his opponents, and the gathering of the 
old Columbians, who cared Uttle for offices, but 
much for country, and who had not heard of elec- 
tion frauds and public stealing. 

It was old Tammany that had time to perform 
the patriotic duty of gathering the bones of the 
eleven thousand American prisoners who died on the 
prison ships at the Wallabout, from 1776 to 1783, 
and of giving them honored interment and com- 
memoration. The old society stood grandly through 
204 




liS> 



^.mu. ^^]^^tlK-.r-T: V:.. ...t> . ^._ o- T^-- "- 



THE FOUNDERS OF TAMMANY. 

New York, Vol. One. p. 204. 




PRESENT HEAJJS OF lA.MMANV HALL 

New York, Vol. une, p. 31)5. 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

the War of 1812, its loyal members going in a 
body to dig in the earthworks that were thrown 
up at v^arious points, as well as giving of their 
means, and supporting the government with other 
practical help. Old Tammany held the first public 
celebrations of Washington's birthday, and it never 
failed to keep Independence Day. In the war of 
1861 it sent regiments to the defense of the Union. 
The degradation of Tammany Hall is as complete as 
the degradation of Cherry Hill (from which foul local- 
ity it has a sympathetic and unanimous support). 

In other days its friends were JejQferson, Madi- 
son and Jackson; among its leaders were Morgan 
Lewis, George Clinton, Josiah Ogden Hoffman, De 
Witt Clinton, Philip Schuyler, AValter Bowne, Brock- 
hoist Livingston, Samuel Osgood, Daniel D. Tomp- 
kins, Garrett Sickles, Stephen Allen, Michael Ul- 
scheffer, John A. Dix, Samuel J. Tilden, Augustus 
Schell, John Van Buren, Churchill C. Cambrelling, 
and John T. Irving. Its tone was so high that it 
tendered a unanimous nomination for maj'or to Wash- 
ington Irving. Think of it! 

Among the leaders of later days may be named 
Wood, Tweed, Sweene}-, Connolly, John Kelly, John 
Morrisey, Richard Croker, and William F, Sheehan. 
Its work has required some peculiar qualities, which 
are supplied by a host of men, of whom may be 
mentioned as types: Patrick Divver, Timothy D. 
Sullivan, Silver Dollar Smith, John J. Scannell, John 
C. Sheehan, and Thomas F. Grady. 

Imagine, if you can, Washington Irving as 
205 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

maj'or, parceling out the offices under the direc- 
tion of Richard Croker, and to the satisfaction of 
all the district leaders! 

An apologist, an old time Columbian, anxious to 
protect the reputation of the original Tammany, re- 
cently wrote the following words: 

''The 'Tammany Society,' or 'Columbian Order,' 
must not be confounded with the 'Tammany Hall 
Democracy' of the City of New York. They are 
separate and distinct bodies, holding the same rela- 
tionship, and none other, as is held by the Equi- 
table Life Assurance Society to the Lawyers' Club 
— that of landlord and tenant. It is true that the 
Sachems, the Father of the Council, the Scribe, the 
Wiskinski, the Sagamore, and many of the private 
Indians of the Society are also members of the De- 
mocracy; but that is because the gentlemen in ques- 
tion have seen fit to become members of both. The 
Sachems are not 'feudal lords over the Tammany 
Democracy,' nor have thej' anj'thing to do with the 
app(Mntment of Democratic leaders. The Society has 
no concern with the Democracy, except to lease to 
it siiitable rooms for its meetings; it is not to be 
credited with any of the Democracy's triumphs or 
charged with any of its shortcomings. The Society 
continues, in its own unobtrusive way(!), to fulfill 
the purposes for which it was organized over one 
hundred years ago; and the only occasions when it 
comes before the public are on the Fourth of July 
each year. Then its hospitable doors are thrown 
wide open, and a large and enthusiastic audience is 
^06 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

gathered within its walls; fine music and abundant 
refreshments (!) are provided; the Declaration of 
Independence is read, and eminent orators deliver 
the 'long talks' and the 'short talks' in honor of 
the day. The most enthusiastic patriot can have no 
substantial grievance against the Society.^* 

The substantial union of the^ "Society" and the 



Saint TaiDuiany. 

"Democracy" cannot be truthfully questioned. The 
"Democracy" has swallowed the "Society," and the 
old Indian, with all his virtues, is in the stomach 
of the Tiger, and is only remembered by his name. 
By nature's process the noble Indian has been trans- 
formed into the rapacious Tiger, as the gentle mis- 
sionary becomes the fierce and obscene cannibal. 
The utter corruption of the old "Society" is mani- 
207 



THE AMERICAX METROPOLIS 



fest in its choice of emblems. Notwithstanding the 
exposure of the Tweed ring, and the conviction of 
its leader for defrauding the people, the "Societ}^" 
or "Democracy," as you may call it, clings to the 
modern device of the Tiger, taken from the front 
of the old fire engine, "Big Six," with which 
Tweed and his pals used to run. Mr. Scannell, 
whose uninviting face is above portrayed, was Fire 




Commissioner by the grace of Mr. Croker, through 
Mr. Gilroy, mayor. He was given an elegant jew- 
eled gold badge of office, with an American er^gle 
on it. He sent it back to the jeweler, who, under 
his orders, removed the eagle and suhstituced a 
tiger, which thenceforth was kLown as the New 
American Bird. 

A distinguished lawyer, in a carefully written 
^08 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

magazine article, spoke of modern Tammany in 
these words: 

"It is a mercenary and merciless despotism; a 
combination of the spirit of the Indian and the 
spoilsman; a sphere of intellectual and moral bar- 
renness without patriotism or principle; an institu- 
tion composed of Liliputs in usefulness and Brobding- 
nags in rascality, in the hands of savage and venal 
partisans, on a level with gamblers, thieves and 
pirates, who never apologize, and would be ruined 
by any attempt at justification." 

Tammany's tyranny, its un-American plan of 
government, its frequent subversion of the honest 
choice of the people, its prostitution of public office, 
its brutality to many classes of the poor and de- 
fenseless, its maintaining power by judicious feed- 
ing of offices to the ignorant and venal, by skillful 
catering to the interests and appetites of various 
classes, and by shrewd pandering to the prejudices 
of the ignorant and non - American classes : these 
are among the greatest dangers to the progress and 
to the future life and influence of the City. New 
York's Tammanisis has proven to be a contagious 
and infectious disease, which, working mischief 
enough at home, has spread to Albany and other 
municipal centers, and has invaded other States. 

THE TAMMANY ATTITUDE. 

{From a Newspaper, July, 1896.) 

"a frank admission. 
"John C. Sheehan was out of town to-day, and 
nobody at Tammany Hall would venture an opin- 

209 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

ion as to whether Tammany, as an organization, 
would heed Mayor Hinckley's appeal to take no 
action on the Chicago nominations until the meet- 
ing of the Democratic State Convention, Individ- 
ual district leaders were free, however, in saying 
what course they favored. The following opinion, 
expressed by ex-Senator Plunkitt and given verbatim, 
reflects the \*iews of man}- Tammany men. 

" 'Hinckley is all right,' said Mr. Plunkitt to an 
'Evening Post' reporter. 'Why should we go ahead 
indorsing the ticket when we don't know what we 
are to get out of it? Free silver or free gold or 
free anything else ma}' be all right, but that ain't 
the point. We want to knoir irhat ive are going 
to get from these people. We clonH care anything 
about this currencrj question. We just want to 
know what Bryan and Sewall will do for the New 
York Democrats if we support the ticket. We don't 
want to build a stone wall for these men, and then 
be thrown on the outside of it. No, siree. There 
won't be any indorsing of the ticket in my district 
till I know what we are to get for the indorse- 
ment. We don't know these people, and they don't 
know us. Let's have an understanding before we 
go into the indorsement business. That's not only 
my sentiment, but the sentiment general in Tam- 
many. We don't give a damn for the money ques- 
tion, but we must know what we are going to get 
out of an indorsement of the ticket,' 

"Some of the personal followers of John C. 
Sheehan said they were in favor of indorsing the 
210 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

Bryan ticket at once, but Senator Plunldtt ex- 
pressed what appeared to be the more general feel- 
ing in Tammany Hall." 

Here, at Printing House Square, we have to do 
only with the memory of Saint Tammany; but we 
have just come from the Tiger's stronghold, and 
over there in the Common, where "Washington once 
assembled his troops to hear the Declaration of In- 
dependence, the Tifjer lias for many years done his 




Tij,'ei- and Indian. 

best to break down the institutions of popular gov- 
ernment, and to destroy the lessons of official fidel- 
ity and civic virtue once so zealously and faithfully 
taught by Federalists and Columbians. It is not all 
progress and glory about us, but there are clouds of 
uncertainty and danger, which we must heed if we 
would preserve the good things that remain from 
the labor of the patriots of old, and that have 
been sustained by good men since their day. 

To Tammany belongs the hon6r of the first vic- 
tory over aboUtionists in New York City. In 1833 
211 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

abolitionists attempted to hold their first meeting at 
Clinton Hall (Nassau and Beekman Streets). It was 
prevented by a riotous crowd, which promptly cele- 
brated its victory by adjourning to Tammany Hall 
and passing resolutions denouncing abohtion. 

Here, in Printing House Square, and down 
through Park Row and Nassau Street to Fulton, 
there worked with Httle interruption until recently a 
most persistent and suceessful organization of pick- 
pockets, composed of graduates, undergraduates, ma- 
triculants and cadets. The writer has seen them 
swarming through these streets, practicing their art 
right under the eyes of the poHce. We have seen 
as many as seven pickpockets, young and old, work- 
ing together at once; and repeatedly we and our 
friends have run the gauntlet between them. The 
thefts of satchels, pocketbooks, watches, pocket 
change, etc., ran up to large amounts. By some 
patent headquarters' system the newspapers didn't 
publish the cases. On more than one occasion the 
eyes of the writer and his intending despoiler have 
met in eloquent flashes. A gentleman in an office 
on Fulton Street saw a pickpocket operating on the 
corner, and being zealous for the right, and confi 
dent in his own prowess, adjusted a bill so it would 
show in his vest pocket, and went down past the 
thief, who grabbed for the monej^, and was promptly 
seized by the good citizen; but to the intense aston- 
ishment and disgust of the citizen, in an instant he 
was rolling in the muddy water of the gutter, with 
2VZ 




NUW TAMJIAXV, 



Ntnv Y.ii-k. v., I 



^^E\V YORK CITY LIFE 

a discarded coat iu his hand, while the thief was 
far away and rait of reach. One of these thieves 
was Jack, or Matt Downej", a lame man, with a 
paralyzed arm and an innocent face. He got into 
crowds, and worked with two fingers of his good 
hand under the craniped-up bad arm. He and his 
pals were an everyday sight, and their faces were 
as familiar as the stores. We asked an old-time 
thief who the man was. He said, "Whj-, that's 
Downey." "What is his business?" "Pickpocket." 
"Has he ever been sent up?" "N"o." "Wh}' not^" 
"Well, you see, he knows the headquarters' men. 
He is a stool-pigeon. If some fine man loses a 
watch he goes to the superintendent, who says, 'We'll 
have it to-morrow.' 'Wonderful!' says the 'gent.' 
Then he goes, and the superintendent calls in a 
detective and says, 'A friend of mine lost his watch 
at such and such a place; here's a description of 
it. Get it!' The detective sends for Downey, and 
he says: 'Now, Downey, the "super's" got to have 
this watch.' Downey knows he's got to have it, 
so he says, 'All right.' He knows all the fellows 
in the business, and he goes for the man that has 
the watch and tells him. The man plants the watch 
in a pawnbroker's. Then the detective goes and finds 
it and tells his chief. In the morning the gent 
comes, and the superintendent tells him where the 
watch is; or, if he is a very important gent, he 
has the watch there for him. 'AYonderful! wonder- 
full' says he. If he pays the pawnbroker's charges, 
as often he does, then the detective and the pawn- 

•ns 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

broker and the pickpocket have another intei'vieiv. 
You see, Downey is a useful man, and lie tias to 
have a show." 

Whatever may be said, Downey and his pals 
had free swing until the Police Department broke 
relations with criminals and stool-pigeons. Captain 
Thompson took command at Oak Street Station. He 
held several fistic interviews with pickpockets in Ann 
Street, Then they disappeared. 

The square will ever be famous as the place 
where the Great American Newspaper has had its 
development. Greeley, Raymond, Dana. Jones, and 
man}' others, hard! 3' less famous, have done their 
hfe work here, and have enriched the nation and 
the world by it. I say "done," remembering full 
well that one is stiU with us; but he has reached 
a crabbed old age, where his usefulness is neutral- 
ized by his gall and his disposition to eternally 
scold; though his paper continues to be the liter- 
ary, rhetorical and esthetic model of America. 

The brilhant editor of the "Press" reminds us 
that this accomplished editor's last days are not ail 
given up to wormwood recollections of what might 
have been, but was not. He says: 

"He Loves the Flag, he Loves the Tree. 

"An antipathy to clergymen and a caressing ten- 
derness for tigers may coexist in one bosom with 
some of the finest emotions of which our mortal 
nature is capable. 

2U 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

' ' We say this because we had always known 
that Mr. Dana loves the flag, and because we know 
now — having" read 'Garden and Forest' — that Mr. 
Dana loves a tree. We find therein that Mr. Dana 
has sniffed the balsamic air of the Pinetum schohe- 
rianum, and that everything in it has his cordial 
and hearty support and approbation, from the abies 
amabitis to the Cunninghamia sinensis. 

"It is luck}-- for these trees that Mr. Dana loves 
them. Overburdened as thej^ are with first names 
and last names, we don't see how they could sur- 
vive the infliction of some of the weird and eerie 
middle names with which Mr. Dana is wont to 
christen the specimens of man that dehght him not. 

"But what we want to pin attention to is that 
Mr. Dana's bosom is not all one savage gloat in 
this time of tigerish triumph. He loves the flag, 
he loves a tree; and on those two points he is 
habitually and nobly right." 

The newspapers are most impressive now by their 
immensity and their material success, and by the 
magical way in which they do the most impossible 
things. At this time, the editor, with a personalit}- 
which he impresses upon the people, is unknown. 

The papers do not lead public thought, but have 
adopted the "Herald's" avowed policy of discovering 
public opinion and follo^^^ng• it. It maj^ be that in 
this the papers are doing us a greater service, for 
all the resources and energies of their proprietors 
and editors are now devoted to getting the news 
^15 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

from every quarter of the earth; and this they 
might not do so well had they to use up their vi- 
tality in lecturing and moralizing, and teaching the 
people from day to day. 

It may be that a Reid is better for us to-day 
than a Greeley; a Pulitzer than a Raymond. 

By way of contrast vwith the newspaper articles 
of these days, let us read these extracts, which 
were greatly admired when they were published. 

To THE Printer: 

">Sz? — The Country being generally amused with 
the Aurora Borealis which made so beautiful and 
magnificent an Appearance the 22 and 23 Nights of 
the last Month, I take the libertj^ to convey to you 
the following Speculation occasioned by that Phe- 
nomenon. 

"We have several times seen this illustrious Me- 
teor in this Country, but never so surprizingly Rich 
and Splendid as now blush'd over the face of the 
Skies. It first appear'd only as is usual with the 
Northern Twilight, a bright Flame in the North 
Quarter of the Horizon. Some observe that this 
kind of Meteor never appears near the Equator, 
and has therefore obtained the above name. About 
half an hour past seven there shot up a Buddy 
Stream which collected itself into a Body and 
seem'd to hang over us like a Mass of Blood, or 
rather like a Curtain of Fire. This lasted a few 
Minutes, when it grew fainter by Degrees, and at 
length vanished. However the Glitter in the North 
216 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

still continued to light us, so that one might, with 
some Attention, see to read in some large Prmt. 
Near the Hour of Nine it began to increase again 
and the Heavens here grew Luminous and Eosey. 
At Twenty-four Minutes after Nine, there was ob- 
served a Light gathering in the yorth East, which 
moving slowly to the East began to glow very 
fierce and vivid. It rose leisurely and at last 
crowded into a Centre near the Zenith, whence in 
a few Minutes it branched out over all the North- 
ern Half of the Hemisphere, in the florid and 
sparkling Colours of a Thousand Rainbows. As 
we stood under it and gazed up, the Country far 
and wide seemed to be arched over (if I may be 
allowed the Expression) with a vast Elamifig Um- 
brello. It continued for about a Quarter of an 
Hour shifting its Form and Colours, and then gen- 
tly faded away till it quite disappeared. For the 
Remainder of the Night, a settled Lustre dawned 
round the Northern Edges of the Hemisphere, which 
kept Flashing at intervals till it was lost in the 
Spread of the Morning Light. 

"The natural Causes of this gay Meteor, I leave 
to be disputed among Philosophers. For my own 
Part, I am more inclined to turn it into a serious 
Speculation, that may improve my Religion, at the 
same time that it entertains my Fancy. I love to 
lift my Thoughts to the Creator, when I see the 
Pomp and "Wonders of his Workmanship. I learn 
a little of the Majesty and Magnificence of his 
Throne when I behold the secret Beams of Light 
J-i 217 



THE AJMERICAN METROPOLIS 

staining the Skies with such a beautiful Variety of 
Glories. It naturally leads my thoughts to the Con- 
templation of that important Night, when the Heav- 
eit.s beiny on Fire shall be dissolved, and the Ele- 
ments shall melt with fervent Heat; luhen our 
blessed SAl'IOUR shall descend in flaming Fire, in 
tJie Clouds of Heaven, with Foiver and great Glory. 
"I am far from incouraging an irrational Enthu- 
siasm, or justifying the extravagant Whimsies of 
some, who up«»n every odd Appearance in the Sky 
fancy the "World will end in an Hour or two. But 
1 can by no means think it unbecoming a Chris- 
tian Philosopher, to take Notice of those fearful 
Sights, and great Signs from Heaven, which we 
know are to be Fore-runners of the Conflagration 
that must quickly devour the Earth. And it hap- 
pens very well foi- our present Purpose, that the 
Words of the sacred Text cannot on any Occasion 
be more applicable than to this particular Appear- 
ance. I will shew Wonders in Heaven above, 
Blood and Fire and Vapours of Smoak, before 
that great and notable day. Our Lord himself has 
taught us to observe these Things when they come 
to pass, as the Preludes to his second Descent. So 
likewise ivla^n ye see all these Things, know that 
it is near at the Z>oo?-6'. " — New York "Gazette," 
November '••, 1T:^0. 

"To THE PUBLISHEK OF THK NeW YOKK 'GaZETTE' : 

'•,S'//- — Some Time past I .sent you a small scrip 
upon the common Use of Tea and the Tea-Table, 

;>18 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

which you have omitted to publish. T now send 
you my Observations upon the impertinent Custom 
of the Women (as well as the Men) have fallen 
into of taking- snuff, which I expect you will not 
omit to publish in your next. 

''I am, sir, etc. 

"This Silly Trick of taking Snuff is attended 
with such a Cocquet An- in some young (as well 
as older) Gentlewomen, and such a sedate Mascu- 
line one in others, that I cannot tell which most to 
complain of, but they are to me equally chsagree- 
able. Mrs. Saunter is so impatient of being with- 
out it, that she takes it as often as she does Salt 
at Meals, and as she affects a wonderful Ease and 
Neghgence in all her Manners, an upper Lip mixed 
with Snuff and the Sauce is Avhat is presented to 
the observation of all who have the Honor to eat 
with her. The pretty Creature her Niece does all 
she can to be as disagreeable as her Aunt; and if 
she is not as offensive to the Eye, she is quite as 
much to the Ear, and makes up all she wants m 
a confident Air, by a nauseous Rattle of the Nose 
when the Snuff is dehvered, and the Fingers make 
the Stops and the Closes on the Nostrils. This, per- 
haps, is not a very Courtly Image in speaking of 
Gentlewomen, that is very true; but there arises 
the offence? Is it in those who commit or those 
who observe it? As for my part, I have been so 
extremely disgusted with this filthy Physick hang- 
ing on the Lip, that the most agreeable Conversa- 
tion, or Person, has not been able to make up for 
it. As to those who take it for pretty action, or 
to fill up little Intervals of Discourse, I can bear 
with them; but then they must not use it when 
another is speaking, who ought to be heard with 
219 



THE AMERICAX METROPOLIS 

t(jo much Respect, to admit of offering at that Tune 
from Hand to Hand the Snuff Box. But Flavilla 
is so far taken with her behaviour in this kind, 
that she pulls out her box (which is indeed full of 
good Br a z He) in the Middle of the Sermon, and 
to shew that she has the Audacity of a well-bred 
Woman she offers it to the Men as well as to the 
Women who sit next her. But since by this Time 
all the World knows she has a fine hand, I am in 
Hopes she may give herself no further Trouble in 
this matter. On Sunday was sevennight, when they 
came about for the Offering, she gave her Charity 
with a very good Air, but at the same Time asked 
the Church warden if he would take a Pinch. Pray, 
Sir, think of these Things in Time, and you will 
oblige "Sir, your most humble Servant." 

—New York "Gazette," May ;U, 1731. 

While thinking of the immensity of these news- 
paper estabUshmeuts, let us read an announcement 
in the "Weekly Post Boy" of February 9, 1747. 

"Our Kind Readers must now naturally expect 
a great Dearth of News, and we are therefore quite 
at a Loss what to give that may be agreeable; we 
must beg their Patience when we tell them what 
i-an be no News here, and what too many of them 
know experimentally, better than wo can express; 
but as it may be news in distant Parts, we appre- 
hend it can't be altogether unseasonable, since we 
have nothing else better to say : The deplorable Cir- 
cumstances this Cit}- is under, from a long Series 
of cold and freezing Weather is Matter of concern 
to all." 

no 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

This beautiful poem appeared in the New York 
'Gazette" of July 11, 1748. 

"To Miss A. S. 

"Of aU the Bauthy (beauty) that e'er cround the 

Land, 
Or ever was in Long Island ; 
Where to begin, or what Part first to Prase 
It is impossibele as the Dedd to rase. 
Without En justice don to the Kest, in a loer 

Erase ; 
But as the Hedd is nobler Part, 
Thare I must begin, and at her Foots depart. 
Such lovely Hare, in Lox hangs in her Neck 
As does my verry Hart to ayck I 
Neglekted hangs the locks from each other Part, 
More bauthy ful sty 11, than if compell'd by Art; 
And hydes a Neck far whiter than the Snow, 
Such Fetres added appropo. 
A noble Eorred w*ith a pare of Eys 
So black ; with any Jett tha vys. 
A graceful look and not too bold. 
As women use to practice of old. 
Her lofely cheeks mixt with a lifely redd, 
Adds a new grace to the nobler Part. 
Her skin so white, so bauthif ul and fare. 
With any Anabaster may compare; 
Dimple rising in her Cheeks so sweate. 
That when I'm in her Presense, I sitt mute, 
Her Mouth so bauth^^tull not large, nor yet too 

small. 
Her Chyn proposhoud compleats it all. 
A charming Waste anoff alone to move 
A Hart of Adamant to what we call Lofe ; 
Her lofely carriage and so genteel an Are 
221 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

Getts me of Riveles auoff I foar; 

One alreddy I am assured off ; 

But him I'll turn away with Scorn and Scoff," 

One has only to compare these extracts with 
others in similar vein that may be found in our 
enterprising and polished newspapers of the present 
day to note the great advance in thought and ex- 
pression. As an illustration of this statement, let 
us look at this beautiful poem recently published in 
that most scholarly ])aper, the New York "Trib- 
une," founded by Horace Greeley. This poem was 
considered so exquisite that it was reproduced in the 
elegant programme of the Carnegie Music Hall. 

"A Bird's Flight. 

"From some bright cloudlet dropping; 
From branch to blossom hopping; 

Then drinking from a small brown stone 

That stood alone 
Amid the brook ; then singing, 
Upspringing. 

It soared : my bird had flown. 

"A glimpse of beauty only 
That left the glen more lonely? 

Nay, truly; for its song and flight 

Made earth more bright I 
If men were less regretful, 
And fretful. 

Would life yield less delight?" 

Gentle reader, bear with me while I give you 
this sample of modern journalistic enterprise, picture 
and all. 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 



St 5U?\e. AH> CAa, 



" CooK out for tl?9 Sunday ^ourpal.' 

" CooK out for tife <?olored Supplement. 

"Oh, be sure and call me earlj^; call me early, mother 

dear — 
I would buy a Sunday 'Journal' ere the last one dis- 
appear. 
I didn't order it to-day, and I must early rise 
To get one from the dealer ere the last one from him 

flies. 
So be sure to call me 
early; call me early, 
mother dear — 
To- morrow '11 be the 
gladdest day of all the 
glad New Year. 
'Twill be rosy with the 
sunshine of the Col- 
ored Supplement, 
And the reader will with 
laughter sway and 
revel with content; 
Oh, the merry man of Brooklyn will guffaw with airy 

grace 
Till he bursts the iron safety pin that holds his shawl in 

place. 
It will sport the jaunty colors of the dreamy Autumn 

time, 
When the rime is on the sparkle and the Sparkle's in the 

rime ; 
When the pig is hanging head first, the old dogwood tree 

beneath, 
With his bosom cut decoUette and a corn-cob in his teeth; 
And the gobbler's waxing fatter in his glory every day, 
And the applejack is gilding all the visions of the jay. 
When the corn is gayly popping 
In the curling, swirling blaze, 
'Z2o 




THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

And the shining chestnut's dropping 
Through the quiet screen of haze. 
You ma}^ bet the sea of colors, o'er the meadows softly 

blent, 
Will be but a true reflection of the Colored Supplement. 
Then be siu-e and call me early; call me early, mother 

dear — 
I would spread my wings and sally through the moi-ning 

atmosphere 
To the dealer gayly smihng in his majesty sublime, 
For the 'Journal,' with its Colored Supplement, for half 

a dime. 

"The golden Autumn, without its wild, bilious 
billows of madcap colors, tossed and tumbled by the 
frost-jeweled fingers of the wanton west wind, would 
be like Sunday without the chromatic symphony of 
the Comic Supplement of the New York 'Jom-nal,' 
and a Sunday without the Colored Supplement would 
be like the Autumn without the combined attractions 
of roast turkey and the ever riotous rumpus of the 
game of football. Therefore, dearly beloved, the Col- 
ored Supplement wiW open to-morrow vnih a luminous 
handful of football fancies, in Avhicli the Yellow Kid 
will be a prominent figure. It will also show the 
beauties of the game, as played hj impressionable 
yomig women, at the supreme moment when a flj'ing 
wedge and a grand tumble combine to reveal all the 
latest conceits and symphonies in lingerie to the en- 
raptured vision of him who only regrets that nature 
did not endow him with a pair of X ray ej^es. 

"The Brash Baboon, the Gay Giraffe and the Sub- 
tle Snake is an African romance, told in pictures. 
2^4 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

This set of pictui'es also deals with the cocoanut in 
its natural state, with inilk punch attachment, and 
not in the form it assumes when converted into the 
barefaced pie which should be seen, but not eaten. It 
is a most thrilling combination, and to know how it 
ends, and whether the cocoanut charmed the baboon, 
until the milk punches revealed to liim the snake, 
don't fail to purchase the 'Joiu-nal' to-morrow, of all 
newsdealers, price five cents." 

The quotation is only a short extract from two 
columns of the same sort of material. The paper is 
not published in Chicago; it is published in New 
York. 

Here is one more specimen of modern genius: 

"Floored the General. 

"THE FLAGONS WERE UPON ALEXANDER THE GREAT. 

"It was the morn of battle. Alexander the Great 
summoned the most intrepid of his generals to his 
presence. Afar on the plain glittered the shields and 
spears of the warrior hosts. 

" 'Mark you, Periander,' cried the young soldier 
king, 'while I attack yon enemy, remain j'ou here 
to guard the camp.' 

" 'Nay, nay, O king!' retorted the intrepid gen- 
eral, 'you forget that in one respect I am like the 
great Sunday "World." ' 

" 'Now, in the name of all the gods at once!' 
yelled Alexander. 'This man is mad! What! com- 
pare yourself with the great Sunday "World," that 
boasts a colored Comic Weekly of countless hues, 
2-25 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

a Magazine replete with wonders, a — but, bah! you 
mock me!' 

"'Hold!' called Periander. 'There's method in 
my madness, for instead of being commanded to re- 
main in camp and guard the rear I should, like 
the great Sunday "World," be ordered in advance.' 

" 'What, ho, there!' roared Alexander, 'the flag- 
ons are upon me!' 

"Don't miss the great Sunday 'World' to-mor- 
row. The greatest number yet." 

May we have grace for our frivohty while we 
make a few quotations from the advertising columns 
of a number of our great modern new^spapers. 

Profits from a scientifically conducted Frog Farm 
will excel any Gold Mine; $5,000 wanted to invest in 
estabhshing a frog farm, with duck ranch as a combine ; 
success assui'ed and strictest investigation sohcited, and 
highest references given. — Answer, N. B., 138 Windsor 
Ave., Norfolk, Va. 

Lost — Pug; young female; Daisy; howls when per- 
son sings; hberal reward. — Georgia, 159 W. 84th St. 

Porpoise Fishery for sale; only completeh^ equipped 
one in the world; send for information, circular. — Riggs 
& Co., 575 Philadelphia Bourse. 

Young people wanted; gay crowd, dancing, boating, 
bathing, fishing, piano, hammocks, shade, excellent 
table; leave old folks to hum. — Maple Terrace House, 
Milton, N. Y. 

Get off the Earth ! — That's what people without 
brains do; use your head; that's what it's for; we patent 
inventions without charge unless successful; send for 
booklet. — Hern & Co., 15G Broadway. 
220 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

Young lady, good figure, wants to pose for artists; 
references exchanged ; positively no triflers. — Address E. 
L., 20G "Herald." 

Black & White, &c.— He that does not allow the 
sparrow to fall unnoticed sees all things. Have not the 
poor enough to contend with? — Catolico. 

Have 9 fine canaries and 8 cages; will exchange for 
bicycle. — 391 Graham Ave., Brooklyn. 

Jockey will impart inside instructions to a rehable 
bettor; big money chance. — Address G. K., 162 "Her- 
ald " 

Large ears, pug noses, hump, flat ill-shaped noses, 
made to harmonize with the other features. Send stamp 
for book on Beauty.— J. H. Woodbury, 127 W. 42d St., 
N. Y. ; inventor Woodbury's facial soap. 

A. — Magical Beauty. Instantaneous results from 
using Kosmeo Balm and Tm-kish Rose Leaves. A plain, 
ordinary woman, you are instantly a dainty, lovable creat- 
ure, and the secret your own. — Thompson's, 947 Broad- 
way and 177 Fifth Ave. 

Partner, lady, wanted, without encumbrances; lov- 
ing disposition, some means; family medicine; large re- 
turns; no risk.— H., box 5, 156 E. 125th St. 

Young Chinese who speaks and writes perfectly En- 
glish. — Address Chinese, 119 "Herald," downtown. 

Wanted — Tlie address of a schatchen, having large 
clientage. — Address with reference, "Advertiser," 708 
Columbus Ave. 

A Catholic maiden (28) worth nearly $5,000, mu- 
sical, refined, good appearance, would wed — Rosalie, 
311 "Herald." 

Academy of Hynoptism — Patients, pupils, corre- 
sponding instruction, circulars, 20 pages, 5 cents. — Dr. 
McCarthy, 256 W. 115th St. 
227 



THE AMERICAX METROPOLIS 

Come for one of our uncalled for elegant suits ; haK 
cost; alter; gentlemen's nobby suits to order cheap.— 
Kulls, importing tailor, 4 W. 22d St. 

Unusual opportunity to become lawful physicians.— 
Medico, 1001 W. Congress St., Cliicago, 111. 

Don't go to a shoemaker or a business college to learn 
stenography.— Brooklyn Shorthand School, Court and 
Joraleman Sts., is tavight by an expert. 

RoCAHOTUS reveals all, 25 and 50 cents.— 231 E. 75th 
St., first floor, east side. 

Wanted— A hve man A\dth some money to join ad- 
vertiser (a pubhc speaker), in original, sensational trav- 
ehng campaign for business ; one ha\nng horse or travel- 
ing advertising or show outfit preferred.— Address L., 
box 450 "World." 

Attention!— Ladies' and gentlemen's fine Cast-off 
Clothing is the only kind of clothes we can use, and our 
demand for them is so large that we are compelled not 
to let go all the goods we can buy; positively highest 
prices.— S. Kosofsky, 753-759 Sixth Ave. 

A widow (35) would marry; am no adventm-ess, 
but a genuine, healthy, womanly, wealthy lady of excel- 
lent social standing; no agents.— Leonard, 309 "Herald." 

A handsome yoimg gu-1 deshes copying or some 
other profitable work.— M. P., box 335 "Herald," 23d St. 

Azrael, condensed, accurate nativity. $1.00 com- 
plete, vnth. predictions and storm map $2.00.-61 E. 41st 
St.; Tuesdays, Thursdays, Satimlays, 11 to 2; corre- 
spondence. 

Absolute divorces on 90 days' residence.— Hoggatt 
& Carouthers have Eastern offices at 108 Fulton St. 

A GOOD name is better than riches: I can give both 
to the lady I marry; my age is almost 60.— Candor, 345 
"Herald." 

228 



NEAV YORK CITY LIFE 

Young business man desires acquaintance of elderly 
lady of some means; object matrimony,— Hudson, "Her- 
ald," Harlem, 

Craftsman !-01i, Lord! My God! Is there none 
to help the widow's son to some employment to prevent 
starving? — Rueff , hnguist, book-keeper. — ' ' Herald, ' ' 
downtown, 

A GENTLEMAN, standing in wealthy society, will in- 
troduce appreciative party; none but those that will stand 
strict investigation need answer.— Eureka, 162 "Herald," 
downtown. 

The young lady who rescued Httle girl from Broad- 
way cable car on Thursday afternoon will receive sub- 
stantial benefit and permanent gratitude bv addressing 
Father, box 296 "Herald." 

. Book-keeper— IL50 week, anywhere, any business, 
10 years' experience.— Expert book-keeper, 49 South 6th 
St., Brooklyn. 

Young Husband— You need have no fears o^ ac- 
count of your wife; we have a doctor in the t)uilding 
in constant attendance.— Siegel, Cooper Co, 

(This is the first instance of the use of *-^Q "Herald's" 
Personal Columns by a great dry-goof^-S house.) 

G.— Bank having certified against it; holding me full 
amount. This means ruin. Is tliiat fair? Also seriously 
involved guarantee companies. What does it mean? 
Was I not your friend?— B, 

Persons with manj^ friends and acquaintances who 
control, or are able to ir^fluence law business, can derive 
handsome income by r^^oing into silent partnership with 
energetic, discreet yoiung lawyer. -Smart, 461 "Herald." 
Lovable, cultured old lady would know gentleman, 
unhmited means; -itiatrimony.- Ella, 2 Court St., Brook- 
lyn. 

A noblExMan of the highest rank, 37 years of age, of 
229 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

distinguished appearance and mental attainments, would 
contract speedy marriage with lady of corresponding at- 
tributes, and wealth to sustain a European home; no 
agents.— Answer for one week, to R. N., "Herald" 
Bureau, Washington, D. C. 

A Final Effort.— A young man, in the interest of 
his two motherless children, is desirous to make the 
acquaintance of a refined party, who, after la>ang the 
story of his li^'e and references before them, would as- 
sist him in his plans. — Trustworthy, 172 "Herald," 
Harlem. 

Young man would like to meet gentleman willing to 
post him on big game hunting in the Northwest.— F. M. 
G., 2:J "Herald," downtown. 

Torture of body or mind conquered at desire ; every ' 
affliction or trouble of humanity can be removed or mod- 
erated; domestic compUcations settled; no need for creep- 
ing in the dark; no .sittings or trance medium; positively 
no -^j^ayment accepted until result is obtained. For fur- 
ther invformation call or address Mr. H. J. Lenz, 150 
W. 125th .St. 

Is your no^.;e red? Fould can bleach it. Call or ad- 
dress Fould, 2U ^Sixth Ave., New York. 

Lady will teach whist, euchre and other games in 
ladies' own homes.— .^tf^comphshments, 410 "Herald." 

Any i>erson knowing of impending business failures 
or having other valuable ' ' information can make big 
money by communicating w:ith smart lawyer.— Strict 
Confidence, "Herald." 

Attention!— Is there a man .of honor and sterUng 
worth who can appreciate the cruel' ty that compels a gen- 
tlewoman, superior mental and persv ^nal attractions, age 
:34, to adopt this means of release from hated bondage? 
No Shylocks nor triflers; object, matrimony.— Isolation, 
144 "Herald," 23d St. 

230 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

Anybody feeling bluish'? Outlook indigoesque? Drop 
in to-day; change luck. — Professor Herbert, expert Palm- 
ist, 160 W. 23d. N.B. — Cheer up and cut this out. 

A GENTLEMAN M^ould hke to make the acquaintance 
of a young lady bicyclist matrimonially inclined. — Ad- 
dress Retired, 1,227 Broadway. 

"W HAT seeking for? I am seeking position as cook or 
butler in private family ; city or countr j^ ; excellent refer- 
ences. — Address Japanese, 280 Fulton St., Brooklyn. 

An educated lady (29) desires acquaintance of sea cap- 
tain visiting tropical countries; view matrimony. — Trop- 
ics, "Herald," downtown. 

ScHATCHEN, reliable, confidential, offers his services 
to ladies and gentlemen; references. — Peck, 158 E. 
88th St. 

These pictm*esque advertisements could be ex- 
tended indefinitely. They furnish food for thought. 
They reveal interesting phases of our Hfe. The 
"Herald" is the medium for the great majority of 
the freak advertisements, and its columns are freely 
used b^" the human spiders, who spin webs and 
catch flies in the great metropolis. The "personal 
columns," the "manicure," "massage," "medical," 
"financial," and "business opportunities" columns are 
dangerous; they are full of snares, pitfalls, decoys, 
frauds and temptations. Some of the solid old news- 
papers disdain such patronage, and refuse it, but 
most of the newer papers trail along in the "Her- 
ald's" path. The "Herald's" news is fairly clean, 
but a great many of its advertisements are abomi- 
nable. The "World's" advertisements are cleaner, 
but its Simday news columns ai-e full of brutality 
231 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

and indecency. The "Herald" scored a victory over 
its rival on Sunday, September 26, 1896, when it 
printed an account of a prominent lady's hnen with 
such detailed frankness that it may not be copied 
here. 

Here are a few of the "Letters from Correspond- 
ents," an important division in the enterprising even- 
ing papers : 

BOARDS AND KEEPS CATS. 

To the Editor — I am an unmarried lad\' and circum- 
stances compel me to live in a boarding-house. I keep 
four cats. I wish to ask you or any of your readers if 
the boarders are justified in the collection of boot-jacks, 
hair-brushes, tin shaving mugs, old shoes, etc., which I 
find outside my door every morning. When I speak of 
it they simply laugh and say they were votive offerings. 
What should be done in such a case? — A Lover of Cats. 

SOME GIRLS ON EIGHTH AVENUE. 

To file Editor — What is the matter with the major- 
ity of American girls? I took a walk on Eighth Avenue 
the other evening, and I was surprised and shocked at 
the conduct of these young ladies (?). They walk along 
with a swagger air and a grin on their face that would 
do credit to a laughing hyena. Being a stranger in the 
city, I would like to know whether this state of affairs is 
considered proper or not. — Stranger. 

MUSIC THAT doesn't ENCHANT. 

To the Editor — How much longer are we to endure 
those horrible .strains of the East River Park BandV 
Mount Morris Park Band is bad, but it walks away from 
the E. R. P. band. "The Star-spangled Banner," which 
should be played with vim and patriotic feeling, is played 
dirge-like, and so with the other badly selected pieces. 
232 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

The leader works his arm like an automaton with no feel- 
ing or expression. I could do better myself. Applause 
is seldom heard, and when given the leader never bows 
in return. We pay for good music and it should be given 
us. I am a member of the People's Choral Union. — 
Ed. Davis, 204 E. 90th St. 

THE LETTERS SHE GOT STAGGERED HER. 

To the Editor — I have been left a widow and have 
two children. I lost my little son, but still have my dear 
little four- year-old girl. Thrown on my own resources, 
I began looking around for employment. Being well 
educated and young, would have preferred office work, 
but being desirous of keeping my httle one with me so as 
to attend to her proper training, I advertised for a posi- 
tion as housekeeper. I was deluged with letters (to my 
dehglit until I opened them). Phew! They smelled to 
heaven ! Letters from everywhere, thirty- three of them, 
and out of the batch but two decent ones. Are all men 
brutes? Is a woman looking for employment supposed to 
be open to insult, simply because she needs money? I 
should think a defenseless woman ought to be protected, 
not insulted. I have never met the class of women these 
garbage-hunters take me to be from, and it seems to me 
that it is a very small kind of man Avho would put such 
a woman to care for his innocent babies or his home. — 
Hattie R. S. 

In Printing House Square many times have been 
crowded great armies of patriotic citizens, rejoicing 
over the victories of war announced on the bulle- 
tins, or watching with pale faces the announce- 
ments of terrible defeats. In times of riot news- 
paper offices here have been barricaded and garrisoned 
by resolute defenders of the freedom of the press. 
This characteristic article of Henry J. Raymond's 
233 



THE america:n' metropolis 

appeared in the '"Times" while the ofl&ce was forti- 
fied in anticipation of an attack by the rioters of 

"We trust that Gov. Seymour does not mean to 
falter. We believe that in his heart he really in- 
tends to vindicate the majesty of the law, accord- 
ing to his sworn obhgations. But, in the name (jf 
the dignity of government and of public safety, we 
protest against any further indulgence in the sort 
of speech A\ath which he 3'esterday sought to pro- 
pitiate the mob. Entreaties and promises are not 
what the day calls for. No official, however high 
his position, can make them, \\athout bringing au- 
thority intc* contempt. This monster is to be met 
Math a sword and that only. He is not to be pla- 
cated with a sop; and, if he were, it would oul}- 
be to make him all the more insatiate hereafter. 
In the name of all that is sacred in law, and all 
that is precious in society, let there be no more of 
this. There is force enough at the command of 
Gov. Seymour to maintain civil authority. He will 
do it. He cannot but do it. He is a ruined man 
if he fails to do it. Tliis mob is not our master. 
It is not to be compounded with by paying black- 
mail. It is not to be supplicated and sued to stay 
its hand. It is to be defied, confronted, grappled 
witlu prostrated, crushed. The government of the 
State of New York is its master, not its slave; its 
ruler, and not its minion. It is too true that there 
are public joui'nals who tr}"^ to dignity this mob by 
some respectable appellation. The 'Herald' character- 
234 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

izes it as 'the people,' and the 'World' as 'the labor- 
iug men of the city.' These are libels that ought 
to have paralyzed the fingers that penned them. It 
is ineffably infamous to attribute to the people, or 
to the laboring men of this metropolis, such hide- 
ous barbarism as this horde has been displaying. 
The people of New York, and the laboring men of 
New York, are not incendiaries, nor robbers, nor 
assassins. They do not hunt down men whose only 
offense is the color that God gave them; they do 
not chase, and insult, and beat women; they do 
not pillage an asylum for orphan children, and burn 
the very roof over those orphans' heads. They are 
civilized beings, valuing law and respecting decency, 
and they regard \N'ith unqualified abhorrence the do- 
ings of the tribe of savages that have sought to 
bear rule in their midst. 

"This mob is not the people, nor does it be- 
long to the people. It is for the most part made 
up of the very vilest elements of the city. It has 
not even the poor merit of being of what mobs 
usually are— the product of mere ignorance and pas- 
sion. They talk, or rather did talk at first, of the 
oppressiveness of the Conscription law; but three- 
fourths of those who have been actively engaged 
in violence have been boys and young men under 
twenty years of age, and not at all subject to the 
Conscription. Were the Conscription law to be abro- 
gated tomorrow, the controlling inspiration of the 
mob would remain all the same. It comes from 
sources quite independent of that law, or any other 
^35 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

— from malignant hate toward those in better cir- 
cumstances, from a craving for plunder, from a 
love of commotion, from a barbarous spite against 
a different race, from a disposition to bolster up 
the faihng fortunes of the Southern rebels. All of 
these influences operate in a greater or less measure 
upon any person engaged in this general defiance 
of law: and all combined have generated a com- 
posite monster more helhsh than the triple-headed 
Cerberus. It doubtless is true that the Conscription, 
or rather its preliminary process, furnished the occa- 
sion for the outbreak. This was so, simply because 
it was the most plausible pretext tor commencing 
open defiance. But it will be a fatal mistake to 
assume that this pretext has but to be removed to 
restore quiet and contentment. Even if it be al- 
lowed that this might have been true at the out- 
set, it is completel}* false now. A mob, even though 
it may start on a single incentive, never sustains it- 
self for any time whatever on any one stimulant. 
With every hour it lives it gathers new passions, 
and dashes after new objects. If you undertake to 
negotiate with it, you find that what it raved for 
yesterday it has no concern for to-day. It is as in- 
consistent as it is headstrong. The rabble greeted 
with cheers the suppliant attitude of Gov. Seymour, 
and his promises witli reference to the Conscription 
law, but we have yet to hear that they thereupon 
abandoned their oiitrages. The fact stands that they 
are to-night, while we write, stiU infiu-iate, still in- 
satiate. You may as well reason with the wolves 
230 



XEW YORK CITY LIFE 

of the forest as with these men in their present 
mood. It is quixotic and suicidal to attempt it. 
The duties of the executive officers of this State 
and City are not to debate, or negotiate, or to sup- 
pHcate, but to execute the laivs. To execute means 
to enforce by authority. This is their only official 
business. Let it be promptly and sternly entered 
upon with all the means now available, and it can- 
not fail of being carried through to an overwhelm- 
ing triumph of public order. It may cost blood- 
much of it perhaps; but it will be a lesson to the 
public enemies, whom we always have and must 
have in our midst, that will last for a generation. 
Justice and mercy this time unite in the same be- 
hest: Gh^e them grape and a plenty of it.'' 
And again : 

"Crush the Mob! 
"Mayor Opdyke has called for volunteer police- 
men, to serve for the special and temporary pur- 
pose of putting down the mob which threatened yes- 
terday to burn and plunder the City. Let no man 
be deaf to this appeal. No man can afford to neg- 
lect it. No man, whatever his calhng or condition 
in life, can afford to live in a city where the law 
is powerless, and where mobs of reckless ruffians 
can plunder dwelhngs, and burn whole blocks of 
buildings with impunity. Let the mob which raged 
yesterday in our streets, with so httle of real re- 
straint, obtain the upper hand for a day or two 
longer and no one can predict or imagine the ex- 
tent of the injury they may inflict, or the weight 
237 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

of the blow they may strike at om- peace and pros- 
perity. This mob must be crushed at once. Every 
day's, everj^ hour's delay, is big with evil. Let 
every citizen come promptly forward and give liis 
personal aid to so good and so indispensable a 
work," 

The news of great elections has been received 
in Printing House Square by countless multitudes. 
Every great event for fifty years past has been 
watched for and learned from the bulletin boards, 
by throngs assembled in this square. Here, when 
the newspapers have prepared to show election news, 
is the place to see New York at its best and its 
worst. 

There was a picturesqvie and pathetic scene in 
Printing House Square on the day when Mr, Bryan 
captured the machinery of the National Democratic 
Party by a hashed-over speech, and secured its 
nomination for the Presidency of the United States 
on a platform which pointed the way to the financial 
dishonor of the nation, A long bulletin boai-d was 
stretched across the front of the "Tribune" build- 
ing, and a young man busied himself in recording 
the votes of the convention. The square and the 
park were overflowing with men, anxiously watch- 
ing the figures. There was no noise, no enthusi- 
asm; and the Democrats could be picked out by 
their lugubrious faces. Bland, the nondescript farm- 
er, and Bryan, the spouting editor, were running 
neck and neck, like a double comet drawing a tail, 
238 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

more or lews nel)ulou8, made up of various candi- 
dates all of the same mad silver-repudiation type. 
Never was there so solemn an audience on such an 
occasion. It was shut in by the great structures 
which had been built out of the prosperity and the 
financial power that depend so thoroughly upon na- 
tional honor. Benjamin Frankhn, the wise old sage, 
stood on his pedestal, with his benignant head 
bowed over the anxious people, and his hand out- 
stretched over them. In the doorway on the corner 
Horace Greeley sat in bronze, dubiously shaking his 
knowing old head, and sympathizing with the sor- 
rowful Democrats, who had once helped him to an 
untimely end in a craze that pushed aside the regu- 
lar order of things; but above all that was dubi- 
ous, uncertain and sorrowful, McKinley's face, full 
of life and blood, flashed its expressive eyes over 
the concourse, and seemed to speak the words that 
boldly appeared, "Protection, Sound Money, and 
Prosperity." 

On the night of the first Tuesday of November, 
there was another great gathering of the people in 
Printing House Square, but there was no solemnity 
about it; it was a tumult of rapture, and a con- 
vulsion of joy. The immense crowd filled the square, 
leaving barely room for the cars to pass through, 
and it extended into the park as far back as it 
was possible for human vision to catch the bulletins 
that were constantly flashed upon the tall fronts of 
the newspaper buildings. The "Journal," Mr. Bry- 
an's New York organ, was prepared to use all the 
239 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

joyous appurtenances of victory. It had secured the 
greater part of the "Tribune" building front, and 
had covered it with a map of the Union, on which 
the votes of the States were shown by colored elec- 
tric hghts, as they became known. The Seventh 
Regiment band was on a platform in front of the 
counting-room, all ready to "whoop it up" for Mr. 
Bryan. The "AVorld" had a band, too, but it was 
prepared to blow for the other side. Venders of tin 
horns appeared, and soon the multitude of spectators 
was transformed into a tin band, if not into a brass 
one. Presently the returns, indicating Mr. McKinley's 
triumph, began to appear on the bulletins, and the 
"Jom-nal's" band played selections from foreign ora- 
torios, which were drowned by an overwhelming 
chorus from the American tin horns. For several 
hours this historic neighborhood, which from the 
earliest days of the struggle for national existence 
has been the meeting ground of the people, re 
sounded ^v^th the cheers of an army of those who 
beheved that a great national crisis had been met 
and that the honor of the counti-y had been saved. 
Similar scenes were apparent that night at many 
other places in New York. 

Many have been the thrilhng and tragic events 
in this square. The "Tribune" has had its share 
of them. In 1845, in the midst of a violent storm, 
its first building was burned down while filled Avith 
people at work, who escaped with the greatest diffi- 
culty. 

Mr. Greeley's "Reflections over the Fire" ap- 
240 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

peared in the columns of the "Tribune" on the 
morning after the fire. 

He said: "We would not indulge in unnecessary 
sentiment, but even the old desk at which we sat, 
the ponderous inkstand, the familiar faces of files of 
correspondence, the choice collection of pamphlets, 
the unfinished essay, the charts by which we steered 
— can they all have vanished, never more to be 
seen? Truly, your fire makes clean work, and is, 
of all executive officers, super-eminent. Perhaps that 
last choice batch of letters may be somewhere on 
file; we are almost tempted to cry, 'Devil! find it 
up!' Pah! it is a mere cinder now; some 
" 'Fathoms deep my letter Mes; 
Of its fines is tinder made. ' 

"No Arabian tale can cradle a wilder fiction, or 
show better how altogether illusory life is. Those 
solid walls of brick; those five decent stories; those 
st«ep and difficult stairs; the swing doors; the sanc- 
tum, scene of many a deep political drama, of many 
a pathetic tale — utterly whiffed out, as one sum- 
marily snuffs out a spermaceti on retiring for the 
night. And all perfectly true. 

"One always has some private satisfaction in his 
own particular misery. Consider what a night it 
was that burned us out, that we were conquered 
by the elements, and went up in flames heroically 
on the wildest, windiest, stormiest night these dozen 
years, not by any fault of human enterprise, but 
fairly conquered by stress of weather; there was a 
great flourish of trumpets, at all events. 

^-1 241 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

"And cousider, above all, that «alainauder safe; 
how, after all, the fire, assisted by the elements, 
only came off second best, not being able to reduce 
that safe into ashes. That is the streak of sunshine 
through the dun wreaths of smoke; the combat of 
human ingenuity against the desperate encounter of 
the seething heat. But those boots, and Webster's 
Dictionary — well! we icere handsomely whipped there, 
we ackn ow ledge . ' ' 

While speaking of Greele.v, we are reminded of 
his historic newspaper wrestling match with Colonel 
Webb, editor of the "Courier and Enquirer," and of 
the great fall that Webb received. 

In the "Courier and Enquirer" of January 27, 
1844, appeared the following: 

"The editor of the 'Tribune' is an Abolitionist; 
we i)recisely the reverse. He is a philosoi^her ; we 
are a Christian. He is a pupil of Graham, and 
would have all the world live upon bran-bread and 
sawdust; we are in tavor of living as our fathers 
did, and of enjoying in moderation the good things 
which Providence has liestowed upon tis. He is tlio 
advocate of the Fourierism, Socialism, and all the 
tomfooleries which have given birth to the debasiug 
and disgusting spectacles of vice and immorality 
which Fanny Wright, Collins, and others exhibit. 
. . . He seeks for notoriety by pretending to great ec- 
centi-icity of character and habits, and by the strange- 
ness of his theories and practices; we, on the con- 
trary, are content with following in the beaten path, 
and accomplishing the gooti we can, in the old-fash- 
242 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

ioned way. He la3-s claim to greatness by wander- 
ing through the streets with a hat double the size 
of his head, a coat after the fashion of Jacob's of 
old, with one leg of his pantaloons inside and the 
other outside of his boot, and with boots all be- 
spattered with mud, or, possibly, a shoe on one foot 
and a boot on the other, and glorifying in an im- 
washed and unshaven person. We, on the contrary, 
eschew all such affectation as weak and silly; we 
think there is a difference between notoriety and dis- 
tinction; we recognize the social obHgation to act 
and dress according to our station in life; and we 
look upon cleanhness of person as inseparable from 
purity of thought and benevolence of heart. In 
short, there is not the slightest resemblance between 
the editor of the 'Tribune' and ourself, politically, 
morally, or socially; and it is only when his affec- 
tation and impudence are unbearable that we conde 
scend to notice him or his press." 

In the "Tribune" of the following day appeared 
this reply: 

"It is true that the editor of 'The Tribune' 
chooses mainly (not entirely) vegetable food; but he 
never troubles his readers on the subject; it does 
not worry them; why should it concern the Colonel? 
... It is hard for philosophy that so humble a 
man shall be made to stand as its exemplar, while 
Christianity is personified by the hero of the Sun- 
day duel with Hon. Tom Marshall; but such luck 
will happen. As to our personal appearance, it does 
seem time that we should say something. . . . Some 
243 



THE AMERICAX METROPOLIS 

(loukey, a while ago, apparently anxious to assail 
or annoy the editor of this paper, and not well 
knowing with what, originated the story of his care- 
lessness of personal appearance; and since then, every 
blockhead of the same disposition, and distressed bj- 
a similar lack of ideas, has repeated and exagger- 
ated the foolery, until, from its origin in the 'Al- 
bany Microscope,' it has sunk down at last to the 
cohniins of the 'Courier and Enquirer,' growing more 
absurd at every landing. Yet, all this time, the 
object of this silly railler}- has doubtless worn bet- 
ter clothes than tv»'o-thirds of those who thus as- 
sailed him — better than any of them could hon- 
estly wear, if they paid their debts otherwise than 
by bankruptcy; while, if they are indeed more 
cleanly than he, they must bathe very tlioroughly 
not less than twice each day. The editor of the 
'Tribime' is the son of a poor and humble farmer; 
came to New Yoik a minor, ^\•ithout a friend with- 
in two hundred miles, less than ten dollars in his 
pocket, and precious little besides; he has never had 
a dollar fi'om a relative, and has, for years, labored 
under a load of debt. . . . Henceforth he may be 
able to make a better show, if deemed essential by 
his friends; fur himself he has not much time or 
thought to bestow on the matter. That he ever 
affected eccentricity is most untrue; and certainly 
no costume he ever appeared in would create such 
a sensation in Broadway, as that James "Watson 
AVebb %vould have worn, but for the clemency of 
Gov. Seward. Heaven grant our assailant may 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

never hang with such weight on another whig ex- 
ecutive!— "We DROP HIM." 

Colonel Webb made no reply to Greelej^. 

In the counting-room of the new building, in 
1869, occurred the famous Richardson murder, 
Daniel McFarland, assistant assessor, shot Albert 
D. Richardson, journalist, because he had robbed 
him of his wife's affections. Popular sympathy- 
was with McFarland. Among his witnesses were 
Horace Greeley, Fitz Hugh Ludlow, Junius H. 
Browne, Amos J. Cummings (then of the "Sun"), 
Whitelaw Reid, F. B. Carpenter, Samuel Sinclair, 
and Ohver Johnson. Among the counsel were John 
Graham, Charles S. Spencer, Noah Davis, and 
Elbridge T. Gerry. At the announcement of the 
verdict of "Not Guilty," in the court room across 
the street, the audience went wild and burst over 
every restraint. This case went far to demonstrate 
a sentiment which has frequently been exhibited in 
New York that a situation such as was shown will 
excuse murder. 

Among the toasts in the old Tammany celebra 
tion above mentioned was one which wished that 
slavery might be abohshed. At that time there 
was a slave market in Wall Street, near Pearl. 
The men who drank to the toast saw the abolition 
of slavery in New York; yet their descendants 
passed through trying experiences before the emanci- 
pation of American slaves was effected. There were 
slave hunts right in New York streets. Such a 
245 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

hunt occurred here under the "fugitive slave law." 
William Johnson, who witnessed it, detailed it at 
the fiftieth anniversary of the mobbing of the aboli- 
tionist, William Lloyd Garrison. He said that he 
was walking past the square, when he saw a negro 
running across the City Hall Park with a crowd of 
roughs in pursuit. He recognized him as a man 
who had been claimed a few days before under the 
act, but had been discharged by Judge Edmonds. 
The claimant had trumped up some charge to secure 
his rearrest. Mr. Johnson and Mr. Smith, of the 
"Tribune," joined in the chase, hoping to be of 
help to the negro. The man ran well, and finally 
disappeared in the cellar of a pie bakery, and the 
crowd, entering, could not find him. They discovered 
that a door led into the engine-room of the "Anti- 
Slavery Standard," on Park Row, and they pressed 
into it, but the engineer insisted that he had not seen 
him, and refused to allow the pursuers to go further. 
The engineer was interested A^th Smith in the 
"Underground Passage," and Smith learned from him 
that the fugitive was in the building. The crowd 
hung around all day. Next day a policeman watched 
thf building, not to help the cohered man, but to catch 
him if possible. After two days it was determined 
to get him out, so a box was addressed to Dennis 
Harris, an abolitionist, Avho had a sugar refinery in 
Duane Street, near "We^t Broadway, and the man 
was nailed up in it, and carted off on a truck. 
Two policemen watched the wagon suspiciously, and 
finally stopped it, one declaring that he "smelled 
346 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

nigger." Tlie box was broken open with the as- 
sistance of an enthusiastic crowd of rascals, and 
the runaway was taken to the Tombs. His case 
came up, and was prosecuted by John McKeon, and 
defended by John Jay. The charge was theft, but 
it could not be sustained, and was dismissed. An 
angry crowd was waiting outside, and the slave 
owner had another warrant read}', so that he might 
kidnap him. The negro's friends got a carriage with 
two good men on the box, and slipped their man 
into it from the private entrance of the building. 
The carriage was well under way before the ruse 
was discovered, and the trip to Canada was safely 
made. 

In Revolutionary days Printing House Square was 
barricaded at Spruce Street and Frankfort Street, 
and across Chatham Street. 

In this neighborhood occurred the fire of 1811, 
which destroyed eighty to ninety houses. This con- 
flagration was attended by manj- thrilling incidents. 
The houses were covered with shingled roofs, and 
the air, being filled with burning embers, which 
were blown in every direction by a high wind, 
every householder had to fight the fire on his own 
roof. The wooden steeples of St. Paul's Chapel, St. 
George's Chapel, and the Brick Presbyterian Church, 
received showers of these burning missiles, many of 
which obtained temporary lodgment, and the thou- 
sands who crowded the Citj- Hall Park were in 
fear that these churches would be destroyed. Fi- 
nally the steeple of the Brick Church took fire. 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

and there seemed to be no way of reaching it. 
A sailor began to climb the steeple on the out- 
side. The ascent seemed impossible of accomplish- 
ment, but he succeeded in reaching the burning 
spot. He beat out the fire with his oil-skin hat, 
descended safely, and disappeared in the crowd. Mr. 
Stone says: "This sailor was the father of Dr. 
Hague, who was afterward the pastor of the Bap- 
tist Church at 31st Street and Madison Avenue" 
(the Madison Avenue Baptist Church). The roof of 
the old jail (now the Register's ofifice) took fire, 
and the poor debtors distinguished themselves by 
saving the building. 

The Brick Church, on the site of the "Times" 
and Potter buildings, was an offshoot of the first 
Presbyterian Church in Wall Street. The ground 
was a part of the Commons, and in the petition 
for its use in 177 Q was called "the triangular piece 
of ground to the Northward of the Vineyard." It 
was leased to the church in perpetuity for forty 
pounds a year. The first pastor was Dr. John 
Rodgers. He was succeeded by Dr. Gardner Spring, 
who held the pulpit for sixty-two years. Dr. Shedd 
also preached there. The church stood from 1767 to 
1856. Its successor is Dr. Van Dyke's Church, at 
Fifth Avenue and 37th Street. The churchyard was 
full of graves, and the Potter building stands on 
the resting place of hundreds of bodies. 

St. George's Chapel, which stood at the corner of 
Beekman and Chff Streets, on the ground now oc- 
cupied by Jordan L. Mott's business, was one of the 
248 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

famous old churches of the City. Like St. Paul's 
Chapel on Vesey Street, it was an enterprise of 
Trinity Church. The land was bought by Trinity's 
wardens from Colonel Beekman. The first subscrip- 
tion was made by Admiral Sir Peter Warren, and 



St. George's Chapel, Beekman Street. 

the Archbishop of Canterbury made a contribution. 
AVashington frequently attended service in the old 
building. The present St George's Church, on East 
16th Street, is the descendant of the old chapel. 
None of the early chm-ches of the Citj' was sup- 
ported by any more representative body of citizens 
249 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

than this old church, whose members included the 
Schuylers, the Livingstons, the Beekmans, the Van 
Rensselaers, and the Cortlandts. Like the other old 
churches, it was surrounded by a graveyard in 
which many old citizens were buried. Some of 
them were veterans of the Revolutionary war. The 
graveyard was sold with the rest of the property, 
all of which had been bought from Colonel Beek- 
man for five hundred pounds, and the poor bones 
of those who had been placed there to rest until 
the resurrection were gathered up and carted away 
to another place of sepultm-e. 

It is said that the pulpit, desk and chancel rail 
were made from the inahogany masts of a ship that 
had been obliged to replace masts broken in a hur- 
ricane with that sort of wood, and which, arriving 
in New York, discarded the mahogany for a more 
suitable material; and that these articles of furniture 
may still be seen in Christ Church, of Manhasset, 
Long Island. 

The history of the Park Theater, which stood on 
Park Row, east of Beekman Street, is very inter- 
esting. The block on which it stood was part of 
Governor Dongan's gardens, and was the vineyard 
referred to in the Presbj^terian petition. It was a 
pleasure resort until 1762, when it was divided into 
lots. That part of the block was sold to Andrew 
Hopper in 1773 for three hundred and twenty-eight 
pounds. At that time Park Row had been named 
Chatham Street, in honor of the Earl of Chatham. 
When the theater was in its most prosperous days 
•250 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

its owners Avere Ji^)liu K. Beekman and John Jacob 
Astor. It was closed in 1822 on account of the yel- 
low fever plague. Among the great actors who ap- 
peared there were Charles Matthews, Cooke, Young, 
Kean, Kemble, Power, Fanny Kcmble, Ellen Tree, 
Booth and A^''allack. Chanfrau's taking character of 
"Mose" the fireman was enacted there. 

It was used in 1825 for the first performances 
of the Garcia family, who had been brought to 
New York by the influence of Dominick Lynch, a 
cultivated citizen. They set the City wild with their 
performance of the "Barber of Seville." There were 
enough members in the family to take all the prin- 
cipal characters. One of the daughters, Maria Fe- 
licia Garcia, married Signor Malibran, an elderlj- 
merchant of the City, and he made her life miser- 
able, but she sang his name into fame. 

These two blocks, from Printing House Square 
to Ann Street, which a few years ago were almost 
entirely occupied by a church and a theater, are 
now crowded with newspaper offices, mercantile es- 
tablishments, and countless offices of lawyers and 
business men of all descriptions. In the daytime 
the office buildings are veritable hives, each cell 
having its occupants. The expansion of business, 
which has brought this great change in so short a 
period, and has done it so effectually as to wipe 
out the very recollection of the venerated churches 
from which messages were spoken that thrilled the 
whole City, — that expansion of business cannot be 
measured in dollars, nor by words. It defies calcu- 
251 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

lation. It is as though the ground had burst up 
suddenl}', and vast treasures, which had laid un- 
known, had been pushed into the light, and shaped 
into useful forms by hands more powerful than those 
of mortals. 

The square is a tlirilling sight in the earl}^ even- 
ings of winter. As night's somnolent curtain drops 
down on the City, myriads of lights flash out, and, 
joining their rays in protest, push back the dark- 
ness, and enable us to lengthen the hours of the 
day. They fill the busy streets with their dazzling 
illumination. Great arc-bvirners in the park,, thou- 
sands of incandescent lamps in shop and office win- 
dows, unique advertising appliances in store fronts 
— all join their rays in a grand flood of light, 
which makes even the buildings seem incandescent. 
Swift cable cars rush by, all aglow. Lines of bril- 
liants, radiating from the square, indicate the course 
of the streets. The bridge is a giant necklace of 
dazzling gems. If the full moon shine, it is not 
noticed. Then the army of workers issues from 
offices and shops and stores, and presses in great 
hungry rivers along the streets, toward the ferries, 
the railroads, and the bridge — toward home and sup- 
per. Up Nassau Street come lawyers, brokers, 
bankers, clerks; up Park Row comes a similar 
throng; a resistless human flood pours up the bridge 
stairs, and another river of people flows into the 
elevated railroad cars. Other streams rush across 
the park toward the New Jersey ferries. The sur- 
face cars are filled. A confused myriad-voiced mur- 
252 




THE ST. PAUL RTTILDING. 

New York, Vol. One, p. 2.53. 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

mur arises from the throng, punctuated by the 
shrill cries of the street venders. Among this great 
mass of people, intent on speedily reaching their 
homes, pickpockets and other slinking characters 
eagerly look for chances, and policemen lay in wait 
for them. 

The world has few more impressive sights than 
this, in which we daily participate, all unconscious 
of emotion or wonder. 

At Ann Street is a deep excavation, in which 
men are toiling so far beneath us as to look like 
children. They are handling iron beams, which are 
being swung into place by ponderous derricks, and 
riveted together with red-hot bolts. Such buildings 
as this must make the sober old gentlemen who 
lie buried across the way turn over in their graves. 
Twenty-six stories will this tower be carried into the 
air, and the twenty-sixth story will be the choicest 
story in the building — such wiU be the conveniences 
of elevator travel and general service. 

This building is remarkable even at this time, 
when nothing seems to be impossible. It is to be 
constructed in such a way that the inevitable set- 
tling can be corrected by one man, who will have 
the power to actually raise the great structure, 
weighing, as it does, fifteen thousand tons. It will 
rest on jack-screws that can be operated by hy- 
draulic power, which can be directed by a single 
hand. This arrangement was deemed advisable be- 
cause the foundation is wet and sandy; and the 
building will rest upon concrete beds instead of soHd 
253 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

rock. It aWU be three hundred and seven feet above 
the curbstone. (Trinity steeple's height is two hun- 
dred and eighty-three feet.) 

[While we were writing, the work was completed 
and all the builders' promises were fulfilled. The 
St. Paul building is a complete structure; and fright- 
fully ugly, interestingly unique, dazzlingly brilliant, 
or away out of sight, as you choose to look at it. 
(3ver the Broadway entrance are three colossal mar- 
ble Atlantes, holding the crushing weight of the 
portico on their shoulders, and seeming to groan 
under the relentless burden that thej' can never lay 
down. They are almost ghastly in their realism. 
Those figures stand for much on that prominent 
Broadway corner. They were designed bj^ a man 
who, fifteen years ago, walked up Broadway, past 
that very corner, a refugee immigrant without a dollar 
in his pocket or a friend in the great strange City.] 

St. Paul's, which used to seem a grand and 
stately old church, has become almost insignificant 
as it has been surrounded by these great modern 
buildings. The house which has just been torn 
down to make room for the new building was the 
home of the "'Herald'' after the burning of Bar- 
num's Museum, and where it reached the great 
proportions which have made it a giant among 
newspapers. The '"Herald" building when erected 
was one of the most important features of Broad- 
way, and the National Park Bank, adjoining it, 
looking now quite shabby and antiquated, was 
thought to be a marvel of architecture. 
^54 



NEAT YORK CITY LIFE 

Barnum first made this corner famous. Years 
before the era of finished stage productions, grand 
operas and perfected concerts, the curiosities, the 
menagerie, the shows, and the Uncle Tom's Cabin 
of Barnum's Museum, were the greatest attractions 
of the City, and drew the entire amusement loving 
part of the community. Here was the home of the 
woolly horse, and the white whales from the north- 
ern seas; here was kept the club with which Cap- 
tain Cook was murdered; and here occurred the 
great fire, from which it was religiously afiirmed 
the Polar bears saved their lives by climbing down 
the ladders, and out of which Barnum's fortunes 
arose like the Phoenix. It will amuse us to recall 
the conflict which Mr. Barnum had with a vestrj^- 
man of St. Paul's Church on a Washington's birth- 
day. Barnum desired to hang out a string of flags 
which would span the street; but there was noth- 
ing to fasten the rope to except an elm tree in the 
corner of the churchyard. Permission for this was 
refused. Mr. Barnum's patriotic inspiration was re- 
enforced by a prospective increase of the attendance 
at the museum, so he took the matter into his own 
hands and fastened the rope to the tree. When the 
morning of Washington's birthday dawned a gallant 
string of flags flapped in the breeze between the 
churchyard and the museum. This unusual connec- 
tion of the living and the dead did not disturb 
Mr. Barnum's peace of mind. Presently a bluster- 
ing vestryman called for Mr. Barnum, who went 
right downstairs and met him on the street. The 
255 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

vestiyman raged about and demanded that Mr. Bar- 
num should take down the flags. A crowd of labor- 
ing men gathered to listen to the dispute. Mr. 
Barnum's quick mind caught on to the situation. 
("Caught on" is an expression that has become fixed 
in our language since the advent of the tall steel 
buildings, and no apology for it is needed.) Mr. 
Barnum said in a loud and offended tone: "If j'ou 
want to have the American flag hauled down on 
Washington's birthday, I won't do it; j'ou will 
have to do it yourself." Quickly a big rough man 
in the crowd jumped at the vestryman, and ex- 
claimed to his comrades: "Here's a bloody English- 
man who wants to pull down the American flag on 
Washington's birthday; let's do him up;" and in a 
mc^nent a rapid procession was ci'ossing the street 
with the vestryman in the front rank. The flags 
flew ail daj- long, and the people crowded into the 
museum through the long hours. Mr. Barnum was 
puzzled by the disposition of most of his visitors to 
stay all day, which kept the museum so crowded 
that the throngs waiting for admission could not 
get in. In vain was the sweetest persuasion used 
upon the pleasure-seeking army. Again native wit 
came to the rescue. An exit into Ann Street w^as 
({uickly opened by a carpenter, and a painter made 
a large sign, on which were a hand pointing to- 
ward the exit, and the words, "This Way to the 
Egress." The contrivance was automatic; it needed 
no explanation and no force to set it moving. The 
first one to espy it was an old woman, who had 
350 



NETV YORK CITY LIFE 

brought her children to spend the day. She ex- 
claimed, "This way to the aigress! Sure that's an 
animal we haven't seen; let's be going to look at 
it." The party started, others followed in its wake, 
and, before they realized what the "aigress" was, 
they were on Ann Street, and they could not get 
in again without paying a new admission price at 
the Broadway entrance. So was contrived this mod- 
ern self- emptying museum method. 

On this corner, before Barnum's time, there was 
a sign pointing up Park Row reading "Road to 
Boston," and on the opposite corner there was a 
sign pointing up Broadway reading "Road to Al- 
bany." One road ran to the seat of Dutch culture, 
the other to New England's universal Hub. 



APPENDIX TO CHAPTER TWO 

THE CONSTITUTIONAL PARADE 

Richard Piatt, the chairman of the committee for the 
procession, issued a historical sketch which has been 
preserved and copied. It is entitled, "Federal Procession 
in Honor of the Constitution of the United States. ' ' It 
begins in this way: "The Constitution was adopted by 
New York State three days after the procession." "We 
have given this sketch in full, not only because of its 
own interesting quaintness, but because it exhibits the 
customs and manners of the time, and it shows the 
unanimity with which the people of New York City in 
all the walks of life gave their allegiance to the Con- 
267 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

stitiition, and ascribed honor to the great citizen of 
New York who was its principal architect. 

To testify the animated joy of the citizens of New 
York, upon finding the federal constitution of govern- 
ment ratified by a sufficient number of States to make 
it operative, it was determined that, on the twenty-third 
day of July, 1788, thej' should so appear in procession, 
as to demonstrate to the world the pleasure that, in con- 
sequence of this event, had pervaded all ranks and de- 
grees of the community. 

The daj- having been more than once postponed, in 
the interesting hope that this State, then in convention, 
would likewise accede to the union, the committee of 
arrangements found it impossible any longer to oppose 
the patriotic ardor of their fellow-citizens. It was re- 
membered, however, that the great object of exultation 
was not the ratifying of the Constitution b}* any one par- 
ticular State, but the already present existence of an era 
in the history of man, great, glorious, and unparalleled, 
which opens a varietj^ of new sources of happiness, and 
unbounded prospects of national prosperity I The adop- 
tion of the federal plan by this State, though not then 
expected to be immediate, was, however, with certainty 
considered among those events which time, increasing 
light, and an overruling Providence, would bring to our 
view. 

About 10 o'clock, 13 guns were fired from the federal 
ship "Hamilton," being the signal for the procession to 
move; the different bodies of which it was composed 
having already collected from their various places of 
meeting. It now set out from the Fields, proceeding 
down Broadw^ay to Great Dock Street, thence through 
Hanover Square, Queen, Chatham, Division, and Arun- 
del Streets; and from thence through Bullock Street to 
Bayard's house, in the following order : 
258 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

HOESEMEN WITH TRUMPETS— COMPANY OF ARTILLERY 
AND FIELD PIECE. 

After these, the whole procession was marshaled into 
ten divisions, each of which was preceded by a white 
flag, borne to the honor of the ten States that had then 
acceded to the new constitution. 

FIBST DIVISION. 
FORESTERS WITH AXES. 

Columbus in his ancient dress, on horseback, repre- 
sented by Captain Moore. 

FORESTERS W^ITH AXES, ETC. 

A plow, drawn by six oxen, conducted by Nicholas 
Cruger, Esq., in a farmer's dress, supporting the Farm- 
er's arms; a flag, with a wheat sheaf on the field, on 
the hand of which was inscribed, "O Fortunati Agri- 
cola!'' over which was a rising star. 

Two Men Sowing Grain. 

A harrow, drawTi by two oxen and two horses, con- 
ducted by Mr. John Watts, in a farmer's dress. 

A number of gentlemen farmers, with every imple- 
ment of husbandry, displayed in a pleasing manner. 

A new invented threshing machine (which will thresh 
and clean seventy-two bushels of grain in a day), con- 
ducted by Baron Poelnitz, and other gentlemen farmers, 
dressed proper, gTinding and threshing grain. 

United States arms, borne by Col. White, on horse- 
back, supported by the Cincinnati; the horse beautifully 
caparisoned, and led by two boj^s in a white uniform. 

A number of gardeners with aprons on, and various 
implements of husbandry. 

A Band of Music. 

TAILORS. 

A flag, ten ])y eleven feet, field sky blue, a fine land- 
scape, Adam and Eve represented naked, excepting tig 
^59 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

leaves for aprons, nearly in full stature, in a sitting post- 
ure; motto, "And they sewed tig leaves together" ; the 
United States forming a chain of links, upon a large 
circle, in order as they adopted the Constitution, and the 
names of each State in the middle ; in the center of the 
circle, "Majority." The sun beaming forth its rays 
upon those States that have acceded to federal measures. 
Rliode Island in mourning. General Washington nearly 
in full stature, holding a parchment in his hand, with 
this inscription, ''The Federal Constitution.''' The fed- 
eral eagle, with its wings expanded, soaring toward the 
sun : the whole hung in a large frame, with golden knobs 
at the tops of the poles, carried by two standard bearers, 
and supported by two men, one upon each side of the 
flag, with fine blue and white cord, and elegant tassels 
in their hands. The flag preceded b}" a committee of 
six, three and three, joined together by white handker- 
chiefs, with buff and blue sashes, and blue and buff 
cockades; followed by Mr. John Elliot, President, with 
a blue and buff sash and cockade ; two of the committee, 
with buff and blue sashes and cockades, on each side of 
the President ; followed by the rest of their branch, all 
wearing blue and buff cockades. The order closed hx 
Mr. John Banks, Vice-President, with a sash and cock- 
ade like the President's, and two officers, with buff and 
blue sashes and cockades; three flank officers, as ad- 
jutants, dressed in sashes and cockades, with white 
rattans in their hands. The sashes and cockades em- 
blematical of the staff uniform of the American army. 

MEASURERS OF GRAIN. 

An ensign with a flag, representing the head of Gen- 
eral Washington in the center, ornamented with thir- 
teen stripes and thirteen stars, with this motto: "His 
Excellency General AVashington'' ; on the opposite side, 
the head of Col. Hamilton, beautifully painted; in the 
260 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

center, a device representing the measures used in the 
business, on one side of which was inscribed, in capitals, 
' ' Eq uity, ' ' surrounded with these lines : 

^^ Federal measures, and measures true. 
Shall measure out justice to us and to you." 

Two ships, one discharging- salt, and the other taking 
in grain; a store, with a merchant in front, viewing, 
with a spyglass, a French ship entering the harbor un- 
der full sail ; on the reverse, the same, except the Mayor 
of the City in the place of Col. Hamilton. The order 
headed by Mr. Van Dyke. 

MILLERS. 

No return. 

INSPECTORS OF FLOUR. 

No return. 

BAKERS. 

Headed by two masters, Messrs. John Quackinbos 
and Frederick Stymets. 

Ten boys, dressed in white, with blue sashes, each of 
them carrying a large rose, decorated with various col- 
ored ribbons. 

Ten journeymen, dressed in white, with blue sashes, 
carrying implements of the craft. 

A stage, drawn by tivo bay horses decorated. 

Four masters, with the Federal loaf, ten feet long, 
twenty-seven inches in breadth, and eight inches in 
height, with the names in full length of the ten States 
which have ratified the Constitution, and the initial let- 
ters of the other three. 

A flag, representing the declension of trade under the 
old confederation. Motto : 

" When in confusion I was made. 
Without foundation was I laid; 
But hope the Federal ovens may 
My sinking frame full well repay. ' ' 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

On the reverse, the representation of their trade in a 
flourishing situation, with two ovens. Motto: 

""We are well built, both sound and tight; 
Vv'e hope to serve the ships in sight 
With the best bread, bak'd with good flour, 
When Congress have the Federcd power." 

In the center, the spread-eagle and crown, holding on 
the left the old confederation ; on the right, the new Con- 
stitution ; Fame, with her trumpet, over it ; followed by 
eighty masters, journej^men and apprentices, with white 
aprons. 

BREWERS, 

A standard, carried by Mr. Samuel Boyer, ornamented 
with the brewers' arms proper, barley, sheaves and por- 
ter casks, encircled with hop vines ; crest, an eagle with 
extended wings, holding a thermometer in his beak. 
Motto : ' ' Home brewed. ' ' The Federal brewery ; a horse 
and dray loaded, in full speed to Bunker's Hill; and other 
devices suitable to the occasion. 

Messrs. A. Lispenard, Appleby and Matlack, with each 
an elegant gilt mashing oar in hand, and barley heads in 
their hats, followed by two horses and drays, ornamented 
with hop vines and barley. First dray loaded with a 
store cask, containing three himdred gallons of ale, a por- 
ter cask and barrel ; on the top of the large cask was fixed 
a tun, with a living Bacchus, a very handsome boy, of 
eight years old, dressed in flesh-colored silk, sewed tight 
round, from his chin to his toes ; a cap, ornamented with 
hop vines and barley, a silver goblet in his hand, drink- 
ing and huzzaing the whole day with the greatest cheer- 
fulness, performing his part to admii'ation. Below 
him sat Silenus, attendant on Bacchus, on a porter hogs- 
head. Motto : ' ' Ale, proper drink for Americans. ' ' 

Second dray, loaded with porter casks and hop bags, 
followed by brewers and maltsters, with mashing oars, 
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NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

malt shovels, etc., tvventj' in number, ornamented with 
barley and hop vines in their hats. 

DISTILLERS. 

No return. 

SECOJSD DIVISION. 
COOPERS. 

Thirteen apprentice bo.vs, thirteen years of age, dressed 
in white shirts, trousers and stockings, the trousers drawn 
at the ankle with a green ribbon, their hats ornamented 
with thirteen pillars, colored green and white, with ten 
branches springing from them, representing the ten States 
which have adopted the Constitution, decorated with an 
oak branch and green ribbon ; a keg carried under the left 
arm, slung with a broad green ribbon, with a bow of the 
same, green and white, on their right shoulder, round 
their right arms a green and white ribbon with a bow ; 
each boy carrying a white oak branch in his right hand, 
and wearing white leather aprons. Headed by Mr. Peter 
Stoutenburgh, carrying a small flag, with the coopers' 
coat of arms. Motto: "Love as brethren." 

Forty-two apprentices, dressed clean, with a green 
oak branch in their hats, and carrying a branch in their 
right hand. 

The stage, drawn by four bay horses, dressed with 
ribbons, and decorated with green oak bows. On the 
stage was erected a standard, with a flag ten feet square, 
representing trade and commerce; a Federal cooperage; 
coopers at different kinds of work; the coopers' coat of 
arms. Motto :" Love as brethren. " Workmen at work 
on the stage, Mr. John Post, master. On the stage, a 
cask that had been put up during the session of the con- 
vention at Philadelphia, and which wanted repair; but, 
notwithstanding one of the best workmen belonging to 
the branch was industriously employed great part of the 
time of the procession, it was found impracticable : this 
m-6 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

branch, considering this emblematical of the old confed- 
eration, determined to make a new cask, representing the 
new Constitution, which was done accordingly, while 
the procession was marching. 

Next the stage was one hundred and thirty-eight mas- 
ters and journeyman coopers, their hats decorated with 
green oak boughs, carrying an oak branch in their right 
hand, the rear brought up by Mr. Daniel Dunscomb, carry- 
ing a small flag, the same as in front. The order con- 
ducted by two masters, wearing green and white cock- 
ades, and each carrying a green hoop pole, with the leaves 
left on the upper end. 

BUTCHERS. 

Headed by Mr. Jotham Post, Alexander Fink, John 
Lovel, and Jacob J. Arden; a flag of fine linen, neatly 
painted, displayed; on the standard, the coat of arms; 
viz., three bullock's heads, two axes crosswise, a boar's 
head, and two garbs, supported by an ox and a lamb. 
Motto : 

"Skin me well, dress me neat. 
And send me 'board the Federal fleet," 

A slaughter-house, with cattle dressed and killing; a 
market, supported by ten pillars, one pillar partly up ; 
under it was written: ^'Federal Market supported by 
ten," in gold letters. Federal butchers; a ship, with 
smaller vessels. The standard carried on a stage drawn 
by four bright bay horses, dressed with ribbons; a boy 
dressed in white rode and conducted each. On the stage, 
a stall, neatly furnished, two butchers and two boys on 
the stage at work, splitting the lambs, etc., followed by 
one hundred of the branch, dressed with clean white 
aprons, and steels on; a band of music; two banners, 
with the proper coat of arms; motto: '■'Federal Butch- 
ers," one in the front, supported by Mr. William Wright; 
one in the rear, supported by Mr. John Perine. A capi- 
26i 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

tal bullock, of a thousand weight, in his quarters, roasted 
whole by the butchers for the honor of the day, was pre- 
sented to the procession in general. 

TANNERS AND CURRIERS. 

Arms on the flag, Azure, a flesher, and a currying- 
knife; for crest, a bull's head, horned; for supporters, on 
the dexter side, a tanner in his frock and trousers, hold- 
ing in his dexter hand a tanner's skimmer, proper; on 
the sinister, a currier in his working dress, apron turned 
up, holding in his sinister hand a currying-knife, proper, 
a sun rising from beneath the Union flag. Motto: "By 
union we rise to splendor." Behind all, an oak tree. 

SKINNERS, BREECHES MAKERS, AND GLOVERS. 

Headed by Messrs. Alsop Hunt, Benjamin Gatfield, 
James Mathers, Leonard Rogers, and James Hays; a 
flag of cream-colored silk, borne by James Mott and 
John Peal, supported by Henry Frederic and Jacob 
Grindlemeyer ; coat of arms, a pair of breeches and three 
gloves, supported by two rampant bucks; crest, a buck's 
head ; a green field, with a ewe and two lambs, one lying 
down, the other standing. Motto: "Americans, encour- 
age your own manufactures"; followed by thirty-one of 
the trade, in buckskin waistcoats, faced with blue silk, 
breeches, gloves and stockings, with a buck's tail in their 
hats. To these Mr. W. Thompson, the parchment manu- 
facturer, attached himself, with a standard of parchment, 
and the inscription, "American manufactured." 

THIRD DIVISION. 
CORDWAINERS. 

Headed by Mr. James M'Cready, who supported a 
small flag representing the arms of the craft. Motto: 
''^Federal Cordwainers" ; followed by twelve masters, 
representing twelve States. 

A stage, drawn by four white horses, with two pos- 
L-i 265 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

tilions in livery; a shop on the stage, with ten men dili- 
gently prosecuting their business, emblematical of the 
ten States that have adopted the Constitution, with colors 
extended over the whole length of the shop, representing, 
in front, his Excellency General Washington coming out 
of the State House at Philadelphia, and presenting the 
Constitution to Fame ; she receiving it standing in her 
temple, and ready to proclaim it to an astonished world. 
On the reverse, a full view of our own harbor, with the 
arrival of a ship with Crispin, who is joyfully received 
by St. Tamman}-. 

Then followed the main body, three hundred and forty 
men. Mr. Anthony Bolton in the rear, with a small flag, 
as in front. 

FOURTH DIVISION. 
CARPENTERS, 

Four masters, with each a rule in his hand; Vice- 
President, with a blue ribbon at his breast, with a scale 
and dividers, and a drawing square in his hand ; Secre- 
tary and Treasurer, with a green sash and architect book 
in their hands; the apprentices in sections, each bearing 
a white wand of five feet long in his hand; the standard 
borne by eight journeymen with red sashes, representing, 
under the standard of the United States, a portraiture 
of General Washington. Motto: "Freedom's favorite 
Son." Two Corinthian pillars, supporting a pedunent 
half finished, expressive of the yet unsettled state of the 
Union; under this, thirteen pillars, gilt, united by one 
entablature, with a pur]>le ribbon; ten of them bearing 
the names of the States, in the order of their adopting the 
new Constitution. A motto on the frieze: "The Love of 
our Country prevails" ; in the i^ediment a shield. Motto : 
"Honor God." 

The journeymen in sections; the masters in sections; 
the President with a blue ribbon at his breast, with scale 
2GG 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

and dividers, and a star or union on his left breast, and 
a drawn square in his hand. Four masters, with two- 
feet rules in their hands, two hundred and two rank and 
file. 

FURRIERS. 

Messrs. Lot Merkel, and John Siemon, carrying a 
white valuable fox skin, manufactured; followed by an 
Indian, properly accoutered, with the dress and habili- 
ments of his nation, as just coming out of the woods, 
loaded with various kinds of raw furs, as if bringing them 
for sale; followed by journeymen, each of them carrying 
furs and manufactures, the produce of this country. Like- 
wise, a horse, with two bears, each sitting on a pack of 
furs, led by an Indian in a beaver blanket and round hat 
with black feathers, followed by two journeyman furriers 
in their working habits, with master aprons, their coats 
trimmed with black martens, their hats decorated with 
black feathers and white cockades. 

A red flag, on which a tiger, as large as life, was dis- 
played, and above it a large muif of real ermine, as an 
emblem of the craft; followed by two journeymen in like 
habits as the first. In the rear of these, came Mr. Lyon 
Jonas, dressed in a superb scarlet blanket, and an elegant 
cap, ornamented with a beautiful plumage, smoking the 
Indian pipe and tomahawk. 

HATTERS. 

Preceded by ten men in their working dresses, orna- 
mented with blue sashes, and carrying bows, decorated 
with blue ribbons. The flag, displaying the emblems of 
the branch, on a blue field, supported by two masters. 
Journej'men and apprentices, followed by masters, being 
sixty in number, with blue cockades and blue aprons, 
headed by Mr. Walter Bicker. 

PERUKE-MAKERS AND HAIRDRESSERS. 

To the number of forty -five. Standard and flag. The 

267 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

arm.s, a wig iu quarters, and three razors on the top of 
the arms. The amicable society of peruke-makers. 
Motto: "May we succeed in our trade, and the Union 
protect us." 

Two small flags on a barber's pole, ten links in each, 
emblematical of the ten adopting States. 

ARTIFICIAL FLORISTS. 

Rear of the fourth division brought up by the Artifi- 
cial Florists, carrying a white flag, ornamented on the 
edges with artificial flowers, with thirteen blue stars, 
three of which, drooping, representing the three States 
that had not adopted the Constitution, supported by two 
Ijoys in white, with blue sashes, and their heads set off 
with feathers. Motto: ''Floreafi America.'" 

FIFTH DI\'ISIOA. 
WHITESMITHS. 

Carrying an elegant pedestal of open scroll-work, sup- 
porting the arms of the trade, Vulcan's arm and hand 
hammer. Motto in gold : 

"B3' hammer and hand 
All arts do stand." 

Below, the name of the trade, embellished with gold or- 
naments in swags of laurel; a highly polished finished 
lock was herein hkewise exhibited, with a key at en- 
trance. Over the same a bell rung continually during 
the procession, and at the top a finished jack, kept like- 
wise in motion by the wind; followed b}' the masters 
singly, then two wardens, masters, journeymen, and 
apprentices, all with blue cockades. 

CUTLERS. 
Two master cutlers, wearing breastplates, and drill- 
bows in their hands, and green silk aprons, embellished 

2i)6 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

with the company's arms, richly painted, bound with red 
ribbon. 

Four journeymen, with green baize aprons, bound 
with red ribbon, and the company's arms. 

Four apprentices, with green baize aprons, bound 
with red ribbon. 

CONFECTIONERS. 

Bacchus's cup, made of sugar, richly ornamented, 
four feet six inches in circumference; round the goblet's 
edge the inscription, '^ The Federal Confectioners," the 
letters of different colors, sugar-plums in the cup; the 
Federal cake, ornamented with preserved fruit, made 
and carried by Mr. Pryor. 

STONE MASONS. 

Flag; on the front an elegant plan of the President's 
(of Congress) house; at a distance was displayed a re- 
mote view of the temple of fame, supported with thirteen 
pillars, ten finished, and three unfinished; over the tem- 
ple these words inscribed : 

"The foundation is firm, the materials are good, 
Each pillar cemented with patriot's blood." 

Over the center of the flag a spread-eagle ; below the tem- 
ple, a gentleman, and a stone mason showing him a draft 
of the temple ; between the President's house and the tem- 
ple, a grove of trees and an elegant walk. 

On the reverse, an elegant figure of the master mason ; 
over his head was displayed the American flag, with the 
mason's coat of arms; at a distance a mason's shop in a 
shade of trees, a man at work in it; at a little distance, 
two men cutting stone; near the bottom of the flag, a 
man sawing marble, with a number of blocks and tools 
of all kinds lying round. 

The order, consisting of thirty-two, headed by Mr. 
George Lindsay and William M' Kinney. 

269 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

BRICKLAYERS. 

Preceded by Mr. John M'Comb, one hundred and two 
in number, supporting a flag, representing, under the col- 
ors of the United States, a medallion of his Excellency 
General Washington, encircled with laurel; in the cen- 
ter, the bricklayer's arms. Mottu: 'Tn God is all our 
trust.'" Over the arms, a ribbon, written, "The Ami- 
cable Societ}' of Bricklaj'ers," all in gold letters; on the 
lower part of the flag, a building with scaffolding, and 
men at work, attended with laborers. The whole painted 
on white silk. 

painters' and glaziers' flag. 

A view of a street with a number of buildings, one 
nearl}' painted, and a man in the attitude of painting, on 
a ladder, the front of a house; a ship, and a man paint- 
itjg the stern; a pillar with ten stripes circular; above 
the pillar the Union flag, standing on the platform, sup- 
ported by ten pillars, three pillars Ijing down under- 
neath ; in the two upper corners, two men in each, at dif- 
ferent work, painting and glazing; in the center of the 
two, the arms of the painters and glaziers. Arms, or 
three shields gule; on the first a hammer, proper; in the 
second a diamond ; in the third a lederkin ; on the two 
upper shields a rule ; in the center of the field a paint-pot 
and brush; crest, a glass cap; supporters, on the dexter 
side, a man holding a pillar and pencil; on the sinister, a 
man holding a sash frame. Motto: "May w^e succeed." 
Over the two poles that supported the baimer, a scroll, 
SIM mounted with a star; this motto: "May Trade Flour- 
ish and Industry be Rewarded." 

CABINET makers. 

Headed by Messrs. Carmer, Rucker and Anderson. 
Robert Carter, bearing the arms of the profession, fol- 
lowed thirt}' apprentices, four abreast; twenty journey- 
men in the same order. 

Stage drawn by horses, on which, during the marcli, 
2:0 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

a cradle and table were completed ; on the stage, colors 
fixed, representing a furniture warehouse, where the dif- 
ferent species of their craft were displayed. Motto: 
"Unity with Fortitude." Sixteen master workmen, 
four and four, closed the order. 

WINDSOR AND RUSH CHAIR MAKERS. 

Headed by Messrs. Thomas and William Ash, of the 
Windsor, and Jacob Smith and Mr. Dow, of the rush 
chair man uf actor j% followed by sixty men, with green 
and r(^d cockades in their hats, emblematical of their busi- 
ness; the standard, borne bj' two men, representing a 
large manufactory shop, with a number of workmen at 
work ; in front of the shop, a view of the river, several 
vessels bound to different parts, taking in chairs ; boys 
carrying them to the wharfs; in one corner, the Ameri- 
can Union; in the other, the chair maker's arms; a turn- 
ing lathe, and two Windsor chairs properly emblazoned. 
Motto: "Free Trade." 

"The Federal States in union bound, 
O'er all the world our chairs are found." 

IVORY TURNERS AND MUSICAL INSTRUMENT MAKERS. 

Headed by Mr. Ahasuerus Turk, and other masters 
of the above business, two and two. They bore a beauti- 
ful standard ; in the upper part was the figure of Apollo 
(the god of music), sitting in the clouds, playing on a 
lyre; round his head were brilliant rays of gold. In a 
festoon, from Apollo to the corners, and down the sides, 
hung the different instruments of music, in the manner 
of trophies. Underneath Apollo was America, standing 
hand in hand with Europe, Asia, and Africa, emblemat- 
ical of love and friendship with all the world. 
"Divine Apollo strikes his sacred lyre, 
Our breath he fills with true Federal fire ; 
All nature smiles on this auspicious day. 
When love and friendship join the new sera." 
Motto: ''Federal Musical Instrument Makers." 
'^71 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

DRUM MAKERS. 

A flag; drum maker's arms; two drums in the cor- 
ners; a sheaf of flax in the center at top; a lamb under- 
neath ; on the left of the arms, an oak tree ; on the right, 
a man leaning on the arms, representing the drum maker. 
Motto: ''Federal Drum Makers." 

"Tho' peaceably inclin'd we are, 
Let us prepare, lest there be war; 
Our enemies may overcome, 
Should we neglect the Federal drum." 

UPHOLSTERERS. 

Accompanyiug the Federal chair of state, a most ele- 
gant exhibition, each carrying a banner ornamented with 
fringe, painted to represent the different articles of their 
business. Ten of these were topped with brilliant stars, 
and three with stars obscured in different degrees. The 
Federal chair was carried upon a handsome stage, cov- 
ered with the richest carpet; over it stood a magnificent 
canopy, nineteen feet high, overlaid with blue satin, deco- 
rated with beautiful festoons, fringe, etc., and various 
emblematical figures. On the right stood a comely lad, 
in the character of Liberty, suitabl}'' dressed, and bearing 
her staff and cap, with a roll of parchment, inscribed, 
''Federal Confif?'tutiou, 1788.''^ On the left, another, in 
the character of justice, carrying the sword and balance. 
On the back of the chair were seen two angels elevating 
a laurel wreath, with this motto: "The reward of virtue," 
and on its top stood the bird sacred to Minerva. On the 
highest part of this beautiful canopy stood the American 
eagle with expanded wings, supported b}^ a globe repre- 
senting the United States; a variety of other emblemat- 
ical circumstances might be noted, such as two watchful 
tigers, in a recumbent posture, intimating the necessar}" 
union of strength and prudence. On the front of the 
stage, a banner, representing Fame in a flying posture, 
carrying the Constitution, was supported by one in the 
272 



NEAV YORK CITY LIFE 

habit of a native American, but richly decorated vvith 
feathers, plumes, etc. The motto: "May the Fe4^ral 
Constitution be supported by Liberty and Justice." 

LACE AND FRINGE WEAVERS. 

Bearing orange colors, elevated on a gilt standard, 
ornamented by their own manufactorj^ ; the device, an 
angel holding out a scroll with the words, ^'Federal 
Constitution,''^ and underneath, 

"O never let it perish in your hands, 
But piously transmit it to your children." 

PAPER STAINERS. 

A flag displayed, representing a piece of paper of a 
verditure blue ground, printed with a figure of General 
Washington, with the words, "New York Manufacture," 
in blue letters, on a gold ground, borne by Mr. John 
Colles, attended bj* an apprentice in a coat and cap of 
paper laced with bordering, and others carrying deco- 
rated tools. In the center of the flag an oval figure, in- 
cluding ten golden stars, for the ten ratifj-ing States; 
and on the exterior, three stars in silver, representing the 
States that have not acceded to the Constitution. On the 
borders of the flag, "Lender this Constitution we hope to 
flourish." 

CIVIL ENGINEERS. 

Carrj-ing a design for erecting a dock for building 
and repairing men-of-war and other large vessels. 



SIXTH DIVISION. 

shipwrights' flag. 
In front a large oak tree, a ship in frame, with pieces 
of timber lying promiscuouslj'. Noah's ark above, M'ith 
the motto: ''The bulwark of a nation." On the ex- 
tended corner, an eye. 

273 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

BLACKSMITHS AND NAILuRS. 

A flag with two smiths' shops represented ; in one, a 
number of men forging an anchor; in the other, men 
shoeing a horse and making nails. Their coat of arms, 
three hammers crowned; over which was seen an eagle; 
under, the words, "The new Constitution." Between 
the two shops, a large anchor. Motto : 

"Forge me strong, finish me neat, 
I soon shall moor a Federal fleet." 

A man with his arm extended, with a hammer in it, 
with this motto : 

"By hammer in hand 
All arts do stand." 

The number, one hundred and twenty, in order, 
headed by Mr. John M'Bain. During the march the 
blacksmiths exerted themselves in the Federal cause. 
They began and almost completed an anchor upon the 
stage, besides making a number of other articles, as hooks 
and thimbles, horseshoes, nails, etc. 

SHIP JOINERS. 

A flag, with their arms; in the field various instru- 
ments of the craft displayed, crested with a ship, and 
ornamented. Motto: 

"Our merchants may venture to ship without fear, 
For pilots of skill shall the 'Hamilton' steer. 
This Federal ship will our commerce revive. 
And merchants, and shipwrights, and joiners shall 

thrive; 
On the ocean of time she's about to set sail, 
Fair Freedom her compass, and Concord the gale. " 

BOAT BUILDERS. 

Headed by two masters. Barge rowed by proper 
bargemen in proper dress. Flag, field, thirteen stars and 
stripes; a print of his Excellency General Washington, 
274 



I 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

and under him a boat building, ax and addice across, and 
drawing-knife and plane. Motto : 

"Accept, great chief, that share of honor's praise 
A grateful people to your merit pays ; 
Verse is too mean your ^^^tues to display. 
And words too weak our meaning to conve}'." 

THE BLOCK AND PUMP MAKERS. 

Finished a pump, turned three dozen sheaves and 
pins, made thirteen blocks, sheaved and pinned com- 
plete, on the stage during the procession. A flag, with 
thirteen different kinds of blocks painted in an oval form, 
a pump boring in the center. Motto: "May our indus- 
try ever recommend us to employment under the Federal 
Government." 

A ship off the stocks with only her lower masts in. 
Motto : 

"Block me well, my spars sheave neat, 
And join me to our Federal fleet." 

SAIL MAKERS. 

A stage drawn by four horses, on which was displayed 
their flag, representing the flag of the United States ; di- 
rectly below, the ship "New Constitution" under full sail; 
in the center of the flag, Colonel Hamilton, the new Con- 
stitution in his right hand, and the Confederation in his 
left ; Fame, with a trumpet, and laurels to crown him ; 
under, this motto : 

"Let steadiness our steps pursue, 
May justice be our guide; 
The Federal plan we keep in view, 
We fall if we divide. ' ' 

Below this, on the left, the inside of a sail-loft; the 
master workman cutting out sails, with men at work. 
On the right of this, a view of a river; a ship at anchor, 
representing Commerce ; a boat taking in sails to carry 
on board ; the outside of a sail-loft, at which men are 
275 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

reefing sails. During the procession was finished on the 
stage a ship's foretopmast- staysail, a steering sail cut out, 
on which was sewed about fifty-six yards, which was per- 
formed by four men in white shirts and trousers, their 
sleeves tied up with blue ribbon. The remainder of the 
branch (thirty-seven in number) followed the stage, carry- 
ing in their hands yards and measure lines, etc., the boys 
dressed in canvas vests and trousers, a blue sash tied 
round their waists, and a pine branch in their hats, with 
blue ribbons; in the branch ten stars, in honor of the ten 
States that have adopted the Constitution. Headed by 
Mr. George Warner. 

RIGGERS. 

The whole number, forty-one, with blue ribbons in 
their hats, two drummers and fifers, a flag with thirteen 
stripes and thirteen stars, and a ship just from the car- 
penters, with men heaving her foremast in with the wind- 
lass, and a rigging loft on the wharf, with seven men at 
work, three of them serving a rope; one with a bowl of 
punch, drinking success to the new Constitution. A 
cartman,with a cart load of rope at the left door; Fame, 
with a trumpet, sounding "Federal Riggers." The 
motto : 

"Fit me well, and rig me neat. 
And join me to the Federal fleet." 

On the other side, a ship almost finished, with men at 
work aloft; likewise, a rigging loft, with men at work. 
A cartman taking out a gang of rigging from the loft. 
The motto: 

"Kow I am rigged, both neat and strong, 
And joined to the Federal throng." 

The standard borne by Mr. Richard Clark. 



276 



NEAV YORK CITY LIFE 

SEVENTH DIVISIO^. 
FEDERAL SHIP "HAMILTON." 

A frigate of thirty-two guns, twenty-seven feet keel, 
and ten feet beam, with galleries, and ev^ery thing com- 
plete and in proportion, both in hull and rigging; manned 
with upward of thirty seamen and marines, in their dif- 
ferent uniforms; commanded by Commodore Nicholson, 
and drawn by ten horses. 

At the hour appointed for the procession to move, thir- 
teen guns were fired from the ship as a signal for march- 
ing. She then got under way, with her topsails a-trip, 
and courses in the brails, proceeding in the center of the 
procession. When abreast of Beaver Street she made the 
proper signal for a pilot, by hoisting a jack at the foretop- 
masthead, and firing a gun. The pilot boat appeared 
upon her weather quarter, the frigate threw her maintop 
sail to the mast; the boat hailed, and asked the necessary 
questions; the pilot was received on board, and the boat 
dismissed. The frigate then filled, and moved abreast 
of the fort, where the crew discovered the President and 
Members of Congress. She immediately brought to and 
fired a salute of thirteen guns, which was followed by 
three cheers, and politely answered by the gentlemen of 
Congress. The procession then moved; w^hen the ship 
came opposite to Mr. Constable's, the crew discovered at 
the window Mrs. Edgar, who had generously honored the 
ship with the present of a suit of silk colors ; immediately 
they manned ship and gave three cheers. When she ar- 
rived abreast of the Old Slip, she was saluted by thirteen 
guns from his Most Catholic Majesty's packet, then in 
the harbor, which was politely returned. She then made 
sail, and proceeded through Queen Street to the Fields, 
when squalls came on, and the wind ahead, she beat to 
windward by short tacks, in which the pilot displayed 
his skill in navigation, heaving the lead, getting ready 
for stays, putting the helm a-lee, by bracing and counter- 
277 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

bracing- the yards, etc. In the Fields she had to descend 
several hills, in raising which she afforded a delightful 
prospect to the spectators, her topsails appearing first, 
and then her hull, in imitation of a ship at sea; exhibit- 
ing an appearance beyond description splendid and ma- 
jestic. When she arrived at her station abreast of the 
dining tables, she clewed up her topsails and came to, in 
close order with the rest of the procession, the officers go- 
ing ashore to dine. At four o'clock she gave the signal 
for marching, by a discharge of thirteen guns, when the 
procession moved by the lower road. The manner in 
which the ship made her passage through the narrow 
part of the road was highl}' interesting and satisfactory, 
being obliged to run under her foretopsail, in a squall, 
and keep in the line of procession ; this was accomplished 
with great hazard by the good conduct of the commander, 
and the assiduity of the seamen and pilot; she arris-ed at 
her moorings abreast of the Bowling Green at half-j^ast 
five, amid the acclamations of thousands; and the differ- 
ent orders in procession, as soon as they were dismissed, 
honored her with three cheers, as a mark of approbation 
for the good conduct of the commodore and his crew. 

PILOT BOAT. 

Eighteen feet in length, and four feet in breadth, com- 
manded b\' Mr. Edward Wilkie, with four lads; embel- 
lished with two flags, representing the Lighthouse, High- 
lands, Staten Island, and the sea; ships going in and out, 
tlie pilot boats attending them ; drawn on a wagon by two 
horses. 

PILOTS. MARINE SOCIETY. 

President with a gold anchor at his left breast, sus- 
pended by a blue ribbon, and two vice presidents, treas- 
urer, secretary and attorney. Standard-bearer, with a 
white silk flag, representing a ship cast on shore ; a dead 
body floating near her; a woman and children in great 
278 



NEAV YORK CITY LIFE 

distress, lamenting- the sad catastrophe, are consoled by 
Hope, leaning with one hand on a large anchor, and 
pointing with the other to Charity, who holds a chart 
inscribed, "New York Marine Society"; in the upper 
part, handsomely ornamented, is written, "Marine So- 
ciety, State of New York"; in the lower, in gold letters, 
the societies' motto: "To Charity add Knowledge." 

FORMER OFFICERS — STANDING COMMITTEE. 

Society and strangers ; masters of vessels, four abreast. 

PRINTERS, BOOKBINDERS AND STATIONERS. 

Preceded by Messrs. Hugh Gaine and Samuel Loudon, 
on horseback. 

The standard alternately supported by Messrs. Bryce, 
Carroll, Harrison and Purdy. 

A handsome stage, drawn by four horses. Upon the 
stage, the Federal printing-press complete; cases and 
other typographical implements, with pressmen and com- 
positors at work. Diu-ing the procession many hundred 
copies of a song and an ode, adapted to the occasion, were 
struck ofiP, and distributed by Messrs. A. M'Lean and J. 
Russel among the multitude. 

A small flag on the top of the press, on which was in- 
scribed the word "PubHus" in gold letters. Mr, John 
Loudon, representing a herald, mounted on the back of 
the press, dressed in a flowing robe, and a cap, on which 
were written the words, "The Liberty of the Press"; 
with a brazen trumpet in the right hand, proclaiming, 
"The epoch of Liberty and Justice," pending from the 
mouth of the trumpet. In the left hand, a parchment 
scroll, representing the new Constitution. The master 
printers, booksellers and bookbinders, with their journey- 
men and apprentices, foui* abreast, following the stage. 
Description of the Standard. 

Fame, blowing her trumpet, and supporting the me- 
dalhon of his excellency Dr. Franklin; Liberty attend- 
279 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

ing, holding her cap over his head; the electric fluid 
darting from below ; on the upper corner, the Union flag, 
and Stationers' arms; and below, the Bible and Federal 
Constitution, representing the religious and civil Consti- 
tution of our country. Mottoes : 

1st. ''Ars arfium omnium conservatrix.^^ 
2d. "May the liberty of the Press be inviolablj' pre- 
served, as the palladium of the Constitution, and the 
sentinel of freedom." 

And surrounding the medallion of his excellence' Dr. 
Frankhn, the following words: "Where liberty dwells, 
there is my country." 

EIGHTH DIVISION. 
CARTMEN. 

A cart painted red, with the words, ^'Federal cart," 
in w^hite letters; ornamented with green boughs, and 
drawn by an elegant bright bay horse, neatly capari- 
soned, and " Union'' ^ inscribed under each ear; driven by 
Mr. Edward Fowler, dressed in a white frock and over- 
alls, w^ith a blue sash and white bow. On the cart was 
erected a standard, with a broad flag; one side represent- 
ing Murraj''s wharf, Stewart and Jones's store, and three 
vessels discharging and taking in cargoes; carts passing 
and repassing; the hai-bor; a view of Long Island; the 
rising sun; a vessel under sail, named the "Federal ship 
'Hamilton'"; a coat of arms; motto: "By this we live," 
in yelloev letters. On the reverse, Jones's w^harf and 
storehouses, with a view of the river, Long Island, horses 
and carts, the rising sun and Federal ship; over which, 
on both sides, were these lines : 

"Beliold the Federal ship of fame, 
The 'Hamilton' we call her name; 
To every craft she gives employ, 
Sure cartmen have their share of joy." 

Followed by three hundred cartmen, each wearing a 

280 



NEAV YORK CITY LIFE 

laurel in his hat, and conducted by Messrs. T. Amei- 
man, A. Mattiny, J. Demeroy, and W. Furnian. 

HORSE DOCTOR. 

Walter Gibbons, horse doctor, dressed in an elegant 
half shirt, with a painted horse on his breast, a balling 
iron in the horse's niouth, and the doctor putting a ball 
of physic down his throat, with implements of farrier}^ 
ready for use. Over the horse written, ^''Federal Horse 
Doctor'''' ; at the bottom, ''^Physic.'''' On his back a horse 
skeleton, the doctor examining the head ; over his head, 
^^ Federal Horse Doctor"" ; at bottom, ^''Dissection.'''' 

MATHEMATICAL INSTRUMENT MAKERS. 

In an oval compartment, encircled with ten stars, 
a Hadley's quadrant, telescope, azimuth compass, and 
time-glass, with suitable decorations. Motto: "Trade 
and Navigation," supported by Mr. Thomas Biggs. 

CARVERS AND ENGRAVERS. 

The Carvers and Engravers (united) were led by 
Messrs. Richard Davis and Peter Maverick; the banner 
supported by R. B. Davis. On the banner, which was of 
silk, bordered with an elegant fringe, of American manu- 
facture, were displayed the arms of the United States; 
viz., a chief, azure on thirteen pieces, argent and gules. 
In the center was placed an escutcheon, parted, proper, 
pale. Argent, a chevron, or, between two gravers in 
chief, proper, a copper-plate on a sand bag in base, 
proper, for engravers. Argent, a mallet and gouge, 
proper, for carvers. Motto: ^^ Arte et Lahore. ^^ This 
banner was suspended by the two upper ends to a gilt 
staff, which was crowned by a circle, two feet diameter, 
of thirteen stars, ten of which were gilt, three imgilt. In 
the center the American eagle soaring. On a carved rib- 
bon, between the banner and the stars, this motto : ' ' Nous 
hrillerone tousbien tot.'''' 

281 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

COACH AND COACH-HARNESS MAKERS. 

A stage in front, drawn by ten black horses, three 
postilions dressed in yellow, and jockey caps trimmed 
yellow. Four workmen on the stage at work in the dif- 
ferent branches. The flag extended on the stage, repre- 
senting a coach-maker's shop with doors open i hands at 
work, a coach finished. At the door, a vessel l}ang at 
the wharf, taking on board carriages for exportation. 
Ov^er the shop, the Union flag; over the ship, the nine 
Federal members from this countr3\ In the center, the 
coach and coach-harness makers' arms, on a blue field, 
three open coaches, supported by Liberty on one side, 
holding in her left hand a cap of Liberty; on the other 
side by Peace, holding in her right hand a cornucopia of 
plenty; Fame, blowing her trumpet over their heads; 
motto: "The Federul star shall guide our car." A gen- 
teel green monument, supported by ten pillars, with a 
Union in the center. Crest on the top of the arms, an 
eagle soaring from a globe, 

COPPERSMITHS. 

Headed by Messrs. Asher Mj'ers and Chas. White. 
A standard emblematical of the branch. Motto: "May 
the labor of the industrious be crowned with success." 

founders' color. 
Furnace, sand-trough, two pillars, an urn, cannon, 
two molds. Motto: "May the Founders, through prin- 
ciples of Amity, agree in Unity." 

TIN PLATE workers. 

Headed by Messrs. Kempton, Hardenbrook, and other 
masters, followed by their journeymen and apprentices, 
with white cockades, emblematic of their business; their 
standard borne by two of their profession, exhibiting a 
square; on the other side the Federal Tin Manufactory; 
on the other, the Federal Tin Warehouse; in the square 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

are raised ten jjillcirs, with lamps to each, lighted, em- 
blematical of the ten States that have adopted the Con- 
stitution. On each of the ten pillars is a different article 
of tin manufactory; in front is a view of the river; the 
Federal man-of-war appears, and shows the poop lan- 
tern ; at a great distance appears a lighthouse, and a ship 
in the ofiEing. The ship of war shows the Federal flag of 
ten stripes. On the manufactorj- are inscribed the words 
^'Federal Constitution^''' and 

"When three more pillars rise, 
Our Union will the world surprise." 

PEWTERERS. 

Bearing an orange-colored silk flag, on which was 
elegantly painted the United States' colors ; underneath 
which, the pewterers' arms, supported by two miners, 
holding burning lamps in their hands. Motto: "Solid 
and pure," in gold letters; on the front part of the flag 
the words, "Society of Pewterers," with the representa- 
tion of a pewterer's workshop, in which the different 
branches were at work, and some of their work finished. 
Above this were the following lines ; \\z. : 

"The Federal plan, most solid and secure, 
Americans their freedom will insure ; 
All arts shall flourish in Columbia's land. 
And all her sons join as one social band." 

GOLD AND SILVER SMITHS. 

A gold Federal Eagle on the top of the standard. 
The goldsmiths' emblematical arms on white silk, em- 
blazoned, the crest representing Justice, sitting on a 
helmet, holding in one hand the balance, in the other 
the touchstone ; the arms supported by two savages, the 
field quarterly, or, two eagles' heads cross'd, azure, two 
cups inverted between two gold buckles; the motto: 
"Justice is the Queen of Virtues." The supporters rest- 
ing on a globe, representing the United States. Stand- 
283 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

ard supported by the four senior goldsmiths, followed by 
twenty-five. 

POTTERS. 

A flag, on which was represented specimens of stone 
and earthen- ware. A stone-ware kiln in full flame, with 
different parts of both branches. A stage drawn by two 
horses, three hands at work, turning a number of vessels 
of different forms. Motto on the flag : "The Potter hath 
power over the clay." 

THE CHOCOT.ATE MAKERS' DEVICE. 

The old Constitution represented by the naked body 
of a man, denoting Congress, without power, with thir- 
teen heads, looking different ways, showing the clashing 
interest of the States in union, with these lines: 

"When each head thus directing, 
The bod.y naught pursues; 
But when in one united. 
Then energy ensues." 

The ten men, well dressed, representing the ten 
States, supporting the head of a man, representing the 
new Constitution united in a Federal head. Across the 
loins of the naked man, in a circle, a scroll from the right 
hand to the left, pointing with the forefinger to a rising- 
sun, and the Federal head, with these lines in it: 

"In all creation my like is not. 
Adopt tlie new, and let me be forgot. 

Behold how beams yon bright and rising sun ! 
O happy era ! tyranny is fled ; 

Since Federal government is now begun. 
United in one presidential head." 

On the pedestal on which it stands are these words : "The 
Old Constitution. " Beneath, a hand chocolate-mill, with 
two men grinding chocolate. On the opposite side of the 
flag, thirteen stripes, representing that no alteration can 
dissolve the Federal compact entered into by the first Con- 
gress, when they declared independence. 
284 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

TOBACCONISTS. 

Headed by Mr. Denis M' Ready, displaying a white 
silk flag, on which was elegantly painted, gilt (encom- 
passed by thirteen tobacco plants), their arms, on a su- 
per!) shield. Motto: "Let brotherly love continue." 
Their flag was preceded by thirteen boys, dressed in 
white, with blue ribbons, each carrying a hand of to- 
bacco, with eleven leaves bound close together; then 
folloAved the masters and journeymen, to the number 
of forty-five. 

DYERS. 

Headed by John Morrison and Robert Dodds. Jour- 
neymen, apprentices ; arms, three madder bags. Motto : 
"Give glory to God.'' 

BRUSHES. 

Headed by Messrs. Cooper and Watson, carrying a 
white flag, decorated with ribbons, representing the brush- 
maker's arms. Motto : 

"May love and unity support our trade, 
And keep out those who would our rights invade." 

Joined by journeymen and apprentices, each wearing 
their aprons, and carrying, upright, a large brush, called 
a Turk's head, staffs twelve feet long. 

TALLOW CHANDLERS. 

A flag with thirteen stripes; under these the figure 
of General Washington, with these words over him, "The 
illustrious Washington, may he be the first President of 
the United States." At the opposite end was placed the 
figure of Colonel Hamilton. Between the two, the coat 
of arms of the branch, over which were placed thirteen 
candles, with the name of the State each represented ; those 
representing the ratifying States were all burning, and 
united in one common flame. At the top of the flag, 
New York and North Carolina were lighted, but not 
joining the rest. 

285 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

SADDLERS, HARNESS, AND WHIP-MAKERS. 

Saddlers, to the number of twenty-four. Mr. J. 
Young, Mr. Henry Broadwell, and Mr, J. Armory, the 
principal whip-makers. 

Then followed their emblematical figure of their pro- 
fession; an elegant horse, decked with a dim hunter sad- 
die, and rich scarlet furniture, with broad gold lace round 
the M^hole, and ornamented with embroidered tassels, 
making a very brilliant appearance. The bridle was 
grand, and displayed much taste in the ornaments. The 
horse was led by a groom, dressed in character, carrying 
an elegant whip, and attended by two black boys as 
hostlers. The other masters and journeymen following 
in the rear. 

NINTH DIVISION. 

The gentlemen of the bar in their robes, two and two, 
preceded by the sheriff and coroner. In the center of 
their body, the Constitution of the United States, ele- 
gantly engrossed on vellum, and decorated with ribbons, 
emblematical of the Union, was borne by John Law- 
rence, Esq., counselor at law, supported by John Cozine, 
and Robert Troop, Esqs., counselors at law. Ten stu- 
dents at law followed, singly, bearing in order the ratifi- 
cations of the Constitution b}' the several States as they 
came into the Union. The rest two and two. 

THE PHILOLOUICAL SOCIETY. 

The secretary, bearing a scroll, containing the })riu- 
ciples of a Federal language. 

Vice-president and librarian ; the latter carrying Mr. 
Home Tooke's Treatise on Language, as a mark of re- 
spect for the book, which contains a new discovery, and 
as a mark of respect for the author, whose zeal for the 
American cause during the late war subjected him to a 
prosecution. 

286 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

Josiah Ogden Hoffman, Esq., the president of the so- 
ciety, with a sash of white and blue ribbons. The stand- 
ard bearer, Mr. William Dunlap, with the arms of the 
society; viz., Argent, three tongues gules, in chief, em- 
blematical of language ; the improvement of which is the 
object of the institution. Chevron, or, indicating firm- 
ness and support, an eye, emblematical of discernment, 
over a pyramid, or rude monument, sculptured with 
Gothic, Hebrew, and Greek letters. The Gothic on the 
light side, indicating the obvious origin of the American 
language from the Gothic. The Hebrew and Greek upon 
the reverse, or shade of the monument, expressing the re- 
moteness and obscurity of the connection between those 
languages and the modern. The crest, a cluster of coher- 
ing magnets, attracted by a key in the center, emblemat- 
ical of union among the members of the society in ac- 
quiring language, the key of knowledge, and clinging to 
their native tongue in preference to a foreign one. The 
shield, ornamented with a branch of oak, from which is 
collected the gall used in making ink, and a sprig of flax, 
from which paper is made; supported on the dexter side 
by Cadmus, in a robe of T^'rian purple, bearing in his 
right hand leaves of the rush, or flag papynis, marked 
with Phoenician characters, representing the introduction 
of letters into Greece and the origin of writing. On the 
sinister side, by Hermes, or Taaus, the inventor of let- 
ters, and god of eloquence, grasping his caduceus or 
wand. Motto: '''' Concedat Laurea Lingue,^^ expressive 
of the superiority of civil over military honors. The flag, 
embellished with the Genius of America, crowned with a 
wreatli of thirteen purple plumes, ten of them starred, 
representing the ten States which have ratified the Con- 
stitution. Her right hand pointing to the Philological 
Society, and in her left a standard, with a pendant, in- 
scribed with the word "Constitution." The members of 
the society in order, clothed in black. 
•ZS7 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

UNIVERSITY. 

A flag, emblematical of science; motto: "Science 
and Liberty mutually support and adorn each other." 
Supported by a standard bearer, preceding two large 
globes. The president and professors, in their academ- 
ical habits, followed by the students, bearing different 
kinds of mathematical and astronomical instruments; 
after these moved the medical students, and the instruct- 
ors of schools. 

MERCHANTS AND TRADERS. 

The merchants and traders were preceded by John 
Broome, Esq., president of the Chamber of Commerce, 
and William Maxwell, Esq., vice-president of the Bank, 
in a chariot, together with "William Laight, Esq., secre- 
tary to the Chamber, on horseback, bearing a standard 
with an oval field, surrounded by thirteen stars. The 
field, a Mercury standing on the shore, holding in his 
hand the arms of the city, surrounded by the emblems of 
commerce; the motto: "JVo/i nobis nati solum,'" not 
born for ourselves alone. The spear terminating in an 
American eagle, gilt, bearing on his breast the arms of 
the United States. 



TENTH DIVISION. 
PHYSICIANS, STRANGERS AND GENTLEMEN. PORTERS. 

A blue flag, with thirteen stripes, on one of which 
was inscribed, "September 17, 1787." Thirteen stars on 
the field, and a standard supported by two porters, with 
the words, "Ten to three, we carry it." Under the 
stripes, "Stands, we stand — falls, we fall." 

ARTILLERY AND FIELD PIECE. 

The line of procession, containing nearly five thou- 
sand people, extended upward of a mile and a half. The 
march was slow and majestic, and the appearance of the 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

scene as far surpassed every one's expectation as mere de- 
scription must fall short of it. While numberless crowds 
were pressing every side, the doors and windows of houses 
were thronged by the fair daughters of Columbia, whose 
animated smiles and satisfaction contributed not a little 
to complete the general joy. As this splendid, novel, and 
interesting exhibition moved along, an unsuspected si- 
lence reigned throughout the city, which gave a solemnity 
to the whole transaction suited to the singular importance 
of the cause. No noise was heard but the deep rumbling 
of carriage wheels, with the necessary salutes and sig- 
nals. A glad solemnity enhvened every countenance, 
while the joyous expectation of national prosperity tri- 
umphed in every bosom. The whole body, having ar- 
rived at Bayard's house, were disposed in a line, and re- 
viewed ; after which, the varied insignia of the procession 
being left upon the Fields, the citizens were conducted to 
their several dining tables. Here they were honored by 
the company of Congress, of many foreigners of distinc- 
tion, and the patriotic and respectable clergy of the 
city. 

The two principal sides of the building provided for 
this entertainment consisted of three large pavilions, con- 
nected by a colonnade of about one hundred and fifty feet 
front, and forming two sides of an obtuse angle ; the mid- 
dle pavilion majestically rising above the whole, terminat- 
ing with a dome, on the top of which was a figure of 
Fame with her trumpet, proclaiming a new era, and 
holding in her left hand the standard of the United 
States, and a roll of parchment, on which was inscribed, 
in large characters, the three remarkable epochs of the 
late war; Independence, Alhancewith France, Peace. At 
her side was the American eagle, with wings extended, 
resting on a crown of laurel, placed on the top of the 
pedestal. Over six of the principal pillars of this colon- 
nade were placed small escutcheons, inscribed with the 
M-l 289 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 



ciphers of the several powers in alhance with tiie United 
States; viz., France, Spain, Sweden, Prussia, Holland, 
Morocco; and over these were displayed tbe colors of 
these respective nations, which added greatly to the bril- 
liancy of the entablature, already beautifully decorated 
with festoons and branches of laurel. The extremities 
of this angle were joined by a table forming part of a cir- 
cle, and from this ten more colonnades were extended, 
each four hundred and forty feet in length, as the rays 
of a circle, the whole having one common center; viz., 
the center of the middle pavilion, where sat the President 
of Congress. At the extremity of each colonnade was a 




The New Y.irk Federal Tabl^ 



en from Bunker's Hill. 



pavilion nearly similar to the three before mentioned, hav- 
ing their outside terminated in a pediment crowned with 
escutcheons, on which was inscribed the names of the 
ten States which had then ratified the Constitution, The 
whole of the colonnades were adorned with curtains ele- 
gantly folded, and with wreaths and festoons of laurel 
everj'where dispersed. 

In the area contained within the angle first described 
was placed the music, but so disposed as not to intercept 
290 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

the prospect from the seat of the President through the 
whole length of the ten colonnades above mentioned. 
This noble and beautiful edifice, erected in less than five 
days, covered a surface of ground eight hundred and 
eighty feet by six hundred, and was calculated to accom- 
modate six thousand persons. 

The taste and genius of Major L'Enfant, so often dis- 
played on other pubhc occasions, and to whom the city is 
indebted for the design and execution, appeared in the 
present instance to have derived additional brilliancy 
from the dignity of the object on which it was em- 
ployed. 

Dinner being ended, the following toasts were 
drank : 

1st. The United States. 

2d. The States which have ratified the new Constitu- 
tion. 

3d. The Convention of the State of New York; 
may they soon add an eleventh pillar to the Federal 
edifice. 

4th. General Washington. 

oth. His Most Christian Majesty. 

6th. His Catholic Majesty. 

7th. The States-General of the United Nether- 
lands. 

8th. The friendly powers in Europe. 

9th. The patriotic framers of the present national 
Constitution. 

10th. The memory of those heroes who have fallen 
in defense of American liberty. 

11th. Success to agriculture, manufacture, and the 
sciences. 

12th. May trade and navigation flourish. 

13th. The day; may the union of the States be per- 
petual. 

After each of which ten cannon were fired ; and in 
291 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

order to diffuse the J03' to all classes of citizens, an ample 
proportion of the entertainment was detached to the 
prisoners in jail. 

The repast ended, the procession returned in the same 
manner to its place of setting out ; and the citizens were 
dismissed by half-past five o'clock. 

In the transactions of this day, a variet}' of circum- 
stances might be noted, upon which the reflections of the 
patriot, the politician, or the philosopher, might dwell 
with pleasure. A procession inexpressibly magnificent, 
formed not to gratify the pride or ambition of an individ- 
ual, but to manifest to the world the attachment of a peo- 
ple to a government calculated to secure and perpetuate 
their civil and religious liberties; the mutual confidence 
and joy of the various orders of the community ; all nar- 
row and bigoted distinctions lost, and absorbed in that 
noblest of passions, the love of country; the glorious 
hope, the emulous and patriotic zeal; the dignified and 
unsullied harmony of the day; and, it may be added, the 
uninstructed ingenuity of the American mechanic, 
unfolding itself in the invention of his emblems and 
mottoes. 

But what most excited surprise in persons unac- 
quainted with the character of American yeomanry was 
to see a numberless multitude, in view of a tempting col- 
lation, not only adhering to every rule of decorum, un- 
awed b}^ a single bayonet or espontoon; but, though 
under the influence of public passions, verging to enthu- 
siasm, peaceably, at an early hour, retiring without a 
single instance of rudeness or impertinence. 

To conclude this account of a transaction which will 
long be remembered, and which reflects infinite honor 
upon the mild genius of our government, and the inhab- 
itants of this city. Instead of the trophies of war and of 
captives in chains, which graced the triumphs of anti- 
quity, we here behold the plow, the ship, and all the im- 
292 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

plements of useful arts. The wreath of martial glory- 
was exchanged for the garland of pea^e ; and instead of 
the painful sensations, which in a humane and liberal 
mind would be excited by the triumphal entry of a con- 
queror, reeking from the blood and slaughter of thou- 
sands of his fellow men, the hearts of all the spectators 
anticipated with rapture the return of concord, of public 
and private justice, of individual happiness, and national 
glory, the constant attendants of a wise, free and eflScient 
system of government." 



293 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 



CHAPTER THREE 

DEVELOPMENT: FROM THE POST-OFFICE TO THE 

OLD CITY HALL VIA AN^ STREET, HORSE 

AND CART STREET. AND THE PYE 

WOMAN'S STREET 

Old Boston Road and New Broadway, and their Gibraltar — 
Ann Street — Horse and Cart Street — Roisterers, Church- 
goers. Gamblers, Pickpockets, Poolsellers and Peddlerb — 
Fire Laddies — A Police Mystery with a flavor cf Richard 
Croker — A few of the Results of Reform — Restaurants 
various and innumerable — Mouquin"s — Delmonico's Rival 
and its odd Characters — Theater Alley — Dolan"s "Sink- 
ers" and Hitchcock's "Beef an' '" — Dennett's Busy Bees. 
and the Business Mens Quick Lunch, etc., etc. — Oysters — 
Garibaldi's— The Nassau Canyon — Memory of Mary Rog- 
ers, the beautiful Cigar Seller— Christ Church in Ann 
Street— Shoemaker's Pasture — Spring Garden — Bennett 
Building the fir.st large Office Building— Jokers of other 
Days— Grandfather's Clock — Extracts from the first num- 
ber of the "Herald" — Comparison with the "Herald"' of 
To-day — F'air Street — Partition Street — North Dutch 
Church — Firemen's Hall— Moravian Church — Shake- 
speare Tavern — Seventh Regiment — The old Theaters — 
First Methodist Church— Mr. Reid's Testimony— Battle of 
Golden Hill — First Blood of the Revolution — Papodopolo 
— Washington Irving's Mischievous Boyhood — Work for 
Women — Old Memories — More old Churches — The Middle 
Dutcli Church — A Prison for Patriots — The Graveyard — 
The old Bell— Aaron Burr— The Treasury— FederalHall— 
The Pillory and Stocks again — Inauguration of Washing- 
ton — Congress — Wall Street — De Peyster Garden — Trinity 
Churcn at one end. a Slave Market at the other— The first 
Bank — Immense Business Interests — Riots of 1834 — The 
great Meeting after the Assassination of Lincoln — Gar- 
field's In.spiration— Centennial of Washington's Inaugu- 
ration 

At Ann Street, the old road to Boston has united 
with the newer Broadway. Looking up that road, 
now Park Row, formerl}^ Chatham Street, and once 
part of the Bowery, our sight follows the colonial 
road of development, rich in historic associations; 
294 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 




295 



THE AMERICA^^ METROPOLIS 

and looking up Broadway, it notes the lines of the 
most celebrated street of modern times, which had 
no existence above Chambers Street until after the 
Revolutionary War. On the Lyne map of 1729, 
Broadway terminated at the Commons (Citj- Hall 
Park) in a rope walk, while the High Road to 
Boston swept grandly to the northeast, crossing the 
Kissing Bridge near Roosevelt- Street. A survey- of 
1755 shows a palisade crossing the City from river 
to river, nearly on the line of Chambers Street, 
with no development of Broadway above that point, 
but with many streets laid out along the Boston 
Road or Bowery. 

The Fresh Water or Collect Pond and the Lis- 
penard Marshes, which were afterward drained 
through Canal Street, ^ stopped the progress of the 
City by way of Broadway for many 5^ears, and the 
Potters' Field and the Negroes' Burying Ground 
marked the end of Broadway. As late as 1805 the 
present northwest corner of Broadway and Cham- 
bers Street was occupied by pig pens. Now the 
great tide of travel which sweeps up old Broadway 
at certain hours of the day is divided by the ma- 
jestic Post-office building, and one part continues 
up the modern thoroughfare, while the other pro- 
ceeds through the ancient road, heedless for the 
most part of anything else than home and supper. 
None of our large buildings is more criticised by 
architects and more admired by the unschooled than 
this Federal building. Its position is an ideal one, 
and its architect has designed a graceful granite 
296 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 



Plan of tVie CITY OF NEW YORK from an Actual Survey, 
by F.Maerschalk, City jyufyeyor-Z/JS. 



REFERENCE. 

t GOVERNORS HOUSt !«> W.fr L . IN. CO. STILL HO- 

2 SECftETARYS OFFICE i; T.VATAR . DISTI LLHOUSE 

3 CUSTOM HOUSE IS ROB'TORIFFITH 
H PLIVIWGSTUIN*C0.S.'M. IS JNO eURLING 
5 CITV HALL 20 JAS eURLINC 
o BYARD"S SUGAR HOUSE 21 J(MO- LEAKE 

7 EXCHANGE 22 BENJ. 8LA06 E 

8 FISH MflR^ET 23 JEWS 6UR\AU ( 
■J OLD SLIP MARKET 21. POOR HOUSE 
10 MEAT MARKET 2S POWDER 

1/ FLY 26 BLOCK 

12 BURTIN'S 27 OATtS 

I) OSWEGO- • 28 WEST DOCK 

H. ENGLISH PREESCMO0L2* EAST 

(5 DUTCH 




R£fe:r£nc6: 

/ TME FORT 

(9 TRINITY CHURCH 

C OLP DUTCH 

P FRENCH 

£. NEW DUTCH 

f PRESBYTERiAry MCET/NCHO. 



(©"QUAKER ME^TINO HOUSE 

h BAPTIST 

J LUTHERAN CHURCH 

« JEWISH SYNAOOGUE 

L STGEORSE'S CHAPEL 

M MORAVIAN MEETINO HOUSE 

f/ NEW LUTHERAN 



297 



THE AMEEICAN METROPOLIS 

flag-capped mountain, against which a river might 
dash and divide. Its wedge form, the manner in 
which storj' is laid on story, the converging Hnes, 
the strength of the base, the strong backing of the 
rear, the S5'mmetry of the many groups of pillars — 
all these features are combined to produce an im- 
posing and powerful appearance. It will be surpris- 
ing if the critics do not laugh at this notion; they 
must criticise and laugh, else how could the people 
know of their superior intelligence? 

We will not go down Broadway, but will slip 
through Ann Street into Xassau Street, Avhich we 
will follow on our return to the Fort. 

Once Ann Street was as quiet and dreamy as 
the Dutch wife of William Beekman, for whom it 
w^as named. Then came livelier times, when the 
sign of a jolly inn on the corner of AVilliam Street 
gave to that street the familiar name of Horse and 
Cart Lane, a name which clung to it even when 
the people worshiped in Christ Church, east of Nas- 
sau Street. 

"George Burns, who lately kept Tavern opposite 
to the Merchants' Coffee House, in this City, is 
now removed to the noted sign of the Cart and 
Horse, where he continues the same entertainment 
as usual, and where all gentlemen travelers and 
others may depend on the best usage and accom- 
modation, both for themselves and Horses: And fur- 
ther, to gratify his customers he constantly takes 
in the Boston, Philadelphia and New York neics- 
paj)e?'5."—" Weekly Post Boy," January 30, 1750. 
398 



NEAV YORK CITY LIFE 

Ann Beekman passed away, and so did the gen- 
tle roisterers of the Horse and Cart, and the de- 
vout members of Christ Church. In later days the 
street was favored bj' seafaring men, and the houses 
were of the type shown in the little grocery store 
near the eastern end. Captain Greenwood, of the 
Revolutionarj' army, lived in the house near Broad- 
way in which Mendoza's book-store now finds shelter. 

In the daja when the volunteer firemen ruled 
the City, Ann Street was a favorite gathering-place 
for them. In the taverns, restaurants and bunk 
rooms of that neighborhood they exchanged stories 
and exercised themselves in their amazing convivial 
accompHshments ; they pulled the department wires 
— for all the leading positions went by vote of the 
members — and they laid plans for running the City 
government. This organized body of dashing, rest- 
less, daring, picturesque firemen became indirectly a 
great political force, furnishing leaders to the differ- 
ent parties, and frequently taking a forcible hand 
for their favorites. Hainy Venn's tavern, at ]3 Ann 
Street, was a famous resort in the thirties; so was 
a place on the site of the Wood 
building, Number 117 Nassau 
Street. The company of the 
noted old engine, "Honey Bee," 
was quartered on Fulton Street 
near Nassau Street, and at an- ' ^'"' ' 

other time at 61 Ann Street. Engine No. 5, "Honey Bee. 

Harry Venn was an enthusiastic fireman and was 
thoroughly representative of the old department. He 
299 




THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

had all of the dash, courage and rough honor which 
characterized the firemen. He was a hot friend and 
a fierce enemy, and something of a poet; and in 
his later years, becoming converted, he threw his 
energies into a series of religious meetings that he 
managed in the Academy of Music in 1858, at which 
many firemen were brought to his faith. He died 
in 1879, and was buried with all the honors that 
his comrades could bestow upon him. 

A sample of his fervid poetry may be interesting. 

"Hot Mutton Pies. 

"I remember, yes, distinctly as tho' it were to-day, 
The pleasures of my early youth that all have passed 

away; 
Some were sad and some were joyous, yet all of them 

I prize. 
And the dearest of them all to me is sweet, sweet 

Mutton Pies. 

"How grateful was the perfume, when brown and 

smoking hot. 
And their juicj" flagrant flavor can never be forgot; 
Though the maker of the edible now in the cold grave 

hes. 
His memory I reverence when I think of Mutton 

Pies. 

"Oh! tell me not of dishes made in French and Ger- 
man style. 
And tenderloins and venisons that are first laid out 

to spile : 
I pass my hand on all of these — my appetite would 

rise 
At no such fancy fixin's — I want my Mutton Pies. 
300 




~~4 






'^.i 



^ 



FiKi- e^giml covpI:lIlIo^ .^t tjdley's pole 

New York, V'ol. one, p. 8' 3. 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

"Alas! the one-legged baker was long ago played out, 
And never more we'll hear again his welcome cheer- 
ing shout; 
And though he oft was libeled, we heeded not their 

hes, 
But went in top and bottom crust for luscious Mutton 
Pies. — Lemon Peel." 

It is related that in 1839 a wager was made by- 
two firemen, Bill Demilt and Tom Lawrence, in 



^ 




Early Type of Steam Engine. 

Venn's tavern, that they would sit on the Goddess 
of Liberty on the City Hall. The wager was a 
bowl of milk punch. The keeper of the City Hall 
was Conk Titus, a member of Engine Company 
14, and when he found his old friends on the roof, 
which they had reached by a lightning rod, and 
301 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 



was informed of their purpose, for tlie promise of 
a share of the punch he shut his eyes, and Demilt 
and Lawrence reached the Goddess's head and 
perched themselves upon her Hke a pair of great 
birds. During the night that bowl of punch was 
like the widow's cruse of oil — it didn't run dry. 




William M. Tweed. 

At the corner of Ana Street and Broadway there 
could always be seen a group of firemen, and when 
an alarm was sounded they scurried away to their 
different engine houses. 

The engines were much loved, and were blessed 
with very expressive pet names, such as "White 
Ghost," "Black Joke," "Shad Belly," "Dry Bones," 
"Red Rover," '"Hay Wagon," "Bean Soup," "Old 
Junk," "Old Maid." 

302 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

Many of our respected citizens and many of our 
politicians first attained prominence through their 
connection with the old department. Mayors Wal- 
ter Bowne, Cornelius W. Lawrence, Stephen Allen, 
Isaac L. Varian, Daniel F. Tiemann, C. Godfrey 
Gunther, and William H. Wickman; George C. 



r 








An OKI Time Race. 

Connor, Cornelius V. Anderson, William H. Webb, 
Carlisle Norwood, Zophar Mills, Adam P. Pentz, 
John T. Agnew, George T. Hope, Samuel Willets, 
Elias G. Drake, William Ay mar, Dr. Lydig Suy- 
dam, Fletcher Harper, Lorenzo Delmonico,^ Alonzo 
Slote, Shepard F. Knapp, Andrew Underbill, Enoch 
C. Pentz, Martin B. Brown, William Laimbeer, 
Thomas Byrnes, William M. AVood, Matthew T. 
303 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

Brennan, Thomas P. AValsh, Alexander V. David- 
son, Francis J. Twomey, John J. Gorman, and 
WilHam M. Tweed, were all prominent firemen. 

These modern statesmen only followed the lead 
of the Father of his Country, who was an ardent 
fireman at Mount Vernon, and head of the depart- 
ment in New York for a short time. 

At a later time the corner of Ann Street and 
Broadway and its immediate neighborhood became 
a "hang-out" for all kinds of sharpers, who came 
down from the Chatham Street neighborhoods and 
met the great Broadway stream of respectable 
travel, with its sprinkling of country folks. In 
those days the corner was occupied by the Chinese 
Assembly rooms. Then came a company of quiet, 
keen-eyed men, who gave to the little dingy, dirty 
block between Broadway and Nassau Street a pe- 
culiar luster and sheen. They ran the most famous 
downtown gambling houses of the Citj", when New 
York was a gambler's paradise. Their games were 
operated without secrecj' and without interference. 
Gamblers from all over the United States came to 
these "hells" to "buck the tiger" and to "fleece" 
unwary countrj-men. The games were so well- 
known that the police captains stationed at the Oak 
Street station house reported them regularly to the 
superintendents of police, who dealt with them only 
in the most inoffensive and perfunctory way. No- 
body was unable to enter the gambling liouses ex- 
cept policemen, and nobody failed to appreciate the 
evidences of gambling except police magistrates. 
304 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

There were not less thau a dozeu of these games 
in this little block. 

Numbers 1, 11, 13 and 15 boused some of the 
most famous of them. Joined to the gambling pest 
was the pickpocket nuisance in its richest flowering. 
During the administrations of Superintendents Murray 
and Byrnes, pool rooms were conducted in which 
many of the young men employed in the neighbor- 
hood gambled their own and their employers' money 
in bets on the horse races. The pool rooms were 
closed very suddenly when Ricbard Croker became 
an owner of racing horses, and had interests to be 
injured by the pool-sellers. A mysterious connection 
was apparent between Croker and the horses, and 
the superintendent and the pool rooms, in which the 
pool rooms got the worst of it. Many of the busi- 
ness men of the neighborhood wished that Mr. 
Croker would buy an interest in some gambling 
house uptown. 

Some people ask : What have we got from re- 
form? Well, among other things, here in this block 
we are rid of three towering evils that had defied 
decency for years: public gambling, public pool-sell- 
ing, and pubhc pocket-picking. The present admin- 
istration has no interest in gamblers and thieves, 
and makes no terms with them. The only nuisance 
that remains is the push cart crowd, which congre- 
gates here because several firms in the street sup- 
ply the venders with novelties for downtown sales, 
and there is a growing feeling that the peddlers 
should have a fair chance to earn honest livings. 
305 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

New York leads the world in restaurants. Any 
taste can be satisfied, auj' appetite can be met, and 
a meal can be fitted to any pocket-book. 

This is a bill of fare of 1850: 

D. SWEENEY'S 

HOUSE OF REFRESHMENT, 
No. 11 Ann Street, New York. 



DINNER. 



s. d. 



Roast Beef, Lamb, Yeal and Pork 6 

" Poultry, Sirloin Steak 16 

" Pig, Chicken Pie, Chicken Soup .... 1 

Boiled Mutton, Corned Beef, Pork and Beans . . 6 

Meat Pie, Soup, Fish, and other dishes .... 6 

Rice, and Mush and Milk 9 

Dessert— Puddings and Pies 9 

BREAKFAST AND TEA. 

Common dishes of Meat or Fish 6 

Cakes, Toast, Rolls, Eggs, etc 6 

Fried or Boiled Ham 1 

Ham and Eggs 1 G 

Pried Potatoes 3 

Extra Bread, Brown Bread 3 

Tea and Coffee 3 

A gentleman who partook of that fare was so 
nourished in mental pabulum that he produced this 
very taking ' ' proposal ' ' : 

"To My Beloved Vesta: 
"Miss, I'm a Pensive Protoplasm, 
Born in some prehistoric chasm. 
I and my humble fellow men 
Are hydrogen, and oxygen, 
And nitrogen, and carbon, too. 
And so is Jane, and so are you. 
30G 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

( 
In stagnant water swarm our brothers 
And sisters, but we've many others, 
Among them animalculae, 
And Hzard's eggs — and so, you see, 
My darhng Vesta, show no pride, 
Nor turn coquettish head aside, 
Our pedigrees, as thus made out. 
Are no great things to boast about. 
The only comfort seems to be — 
In this philosophers agree — 
That how a protoplasm's made 
Is mystery outside their trade. 
And we are parts, so say the sages. 
Of life come down from Long Past Ages. 
So let us haste in Hymen's bands 
To join our Protoplastic hands, 
And spend our gay organic life 
As happy man and happy wife." 

Another, impressed with the procession of church- 
goers moving down Broadway, dashed off this re- 
markable production : 

"Church Belles. 

"Coming in couples, "Whispering softly, 

Smiling so sweetly. Heeding no sermon ; 

Up the long aisles What the^^ go there for 

Tripping so feath'. Hard to determine. 

"Flutter of feathers, "On all around them 

Rustle of dresses, Gazing benignlj^ ; 

Fixing of ribbons. Wholly unconscious, 

Shaking of tresses. Singing divinely. 

"Envj'ing bonnets, "Prosy discoursing. 

Envying laces. Don't suit their whims, 

Nodding at neighbors, Plain they assemble. 
Peering in faces. Just for the HiMSl" 

307 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

The music of that neighborhood is not now so 
refined, though it is exceedingly fetching. Here are 
two gems from "Maggie West's Songster"; a collec- 
tion that is much admired by frequenters of Ann 
Street and Park Row. 

"Take a Seat, Old Lady. 
"A story I'm going to tell of a woman old and gray, 

Wand 'ring the street, in the snow and sleet, at close of 
a winter's day ; 

In front of a building grand, quite weary she sinks in 
a chair. 

When a youth inside, most arrogant with pride, or- 
ders her away from there ! 

Next door there stood a newsboy, who owned a little 
stand. 

Who saw the poor old creature driven from the build- 
ing grand ; 

He ran into his humble store, as tho' 'twere childish 
play, 

Bro't a chair from out the place, with a smile upon 
his face, these words I heard him say: 

CHORUS. 

"Take a seat, old lady, for you are welcome there, 
Do not hesitate, ma'am, for I own that chair : 
I know you must be tired, besides, you're old and gray, 
You'll find it there and welcome when you pass this way ! 

"In silence she sat for a while, and the tears coursed 
down her cheek, 
Her thoughts seem'd to wander to days gone by, poor 

soul, she could scarcely speak; 
At last she arose and said, with lips that were trem- 
bling and blue: 
I'll remember thee, some day you'll hear from me, 
once I had a boy like you. 
308 



NEAV YORK CITY LIFE 

Three years have come aud gone, once more the same 

old spot I see, 
The youth he gets a letter, wond'ring- from whence 

it can be; 
He opens it, it tells a tale, the woman she is dead. 
She had died without a kin, left her thousands all to 

him, thro' the sweet kind words he said : 

— Chorus. 

"My Best Girl's a New Yorker, 

"Singing in praise of j'our sweetheart, describing her 
many perfections. 
Is just now consider'd a high art, so I'll tell you 
all about mine; 
Tommy aud Johnny and Danny, whose sweethearts 
can rival most any, 
"Will turn emerald hued all from envy when they 
hear of ni}' charmer divine. 

CHORUS. 

"M)' best girl's a corker, 

Not the kind that's slow, 
Born and bred New Yorker, 

I would have you know; 
You ma}^ sing about j'our Mollie, 

Your Mamie or your Pearl, 
They're all back numbers when compared 

"With my best girl ! 

'If you could see what she writes me when I'm away 
from the fireside 
You plainl}' could tell that she likes me, this dear 
young charmer of mine ; 
Mamma has faithfully taught her to be a most dutiful 
daughter. 
And that's why I love her and court her, this girl 
that I think so divine." 
300 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

While speaking of Ann Street restaurants, we 
should not forget that most famous resort, '"Win- 
dust's," which extended from Number 5 to 11 Park 
Row, and had an entrance from Ann Street. Ed- 
ward Windust was the most famous restaurateur 
of old New York. At his place the great actors of 
the Park Theater, like John Brougham and John 
Gilbert, met and chatted with such literati as Fitz- 
Greene Halleck, Washington Irving and Fenimore 
Cooper. It was opened in 1821. Sand}'' Welsh's 
place, in the basement of the American Museum, 
was the resort of famous politicians, like the "war 
horses" Ehjah Purdy, Robert Morris, Lorenzo Shep- 
pard and Rococo Levi. Windust carried on his res- 
taurant until 1865. Mr. Brougham, speaking of Win- 
dust's, remembered a fac-simile of the inscription on 
Shakespeare's tombstone, with the legend on it, 

' ' Good friend, for Jesus' sake forbeare, 
To digg the dust encloased heare : 
Blest be ye man y* spares thes stones, 
And curst be he y* moves my bones," 

which hung on the wall, and the long table at 
which the actors congregated, and the small boxes 
for private suppers. While speaking of Windust's 
steaks, pleasure glowed on his face, and he recalled 
the names of manj^ with whom he had associated 
in loving converse about the long table, among 
whom were the eccentric lawyer, Mr. Natins, Pro- 
fessor Mapes, George Jamieson, Hamblin, Placide, 
and old Tom Cooper, father-in-law of President Ty- 
ler, and the greatest tragedian before Forrest. John 
310 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

Gilbert recalled William Burton, Tom Flyun, Wil- 
liam Chapman, James Wallack, John Mason, George 
Frederick Cooke, and Bass, the great Shakespearian 
reader. Mr. Gilljert spoke the very last words on 
the stage of the old Park Theater — the final speech 
of Admiral Kingston in the pla}' called "Naval En- 
gagements." He gave this interestmg story about 
Mr. Bass: "Miss Rose Telbin, an actress and cousin 
of Bass, had died, and he, out of respect for her 
memory, ordered a tombstone for her grave. It 
was brought to Windust's one evening while a 
frightful storm was raging, and there it was deliv- 
ered to the reader of Shakespeare. He remained 
long with his boon companions, and at a late hour 
started for home by one of the street cars that 
passed the door, carrying the tombstone in his arms; 
and he fell asleep in the corner of the car. The 
car passed Bass's street, but he was still asleep, 
and it finally reached the shed that served as a 
depot. The conductor did not notice him, still fast 
asleep in his corner, wath his arms round the slab, 
and went home without waking the poor fellow. 
Early in the morning the car started as usual on 
its down trip, Bass still being fast asleep. Imagine 
his surprise when he was awakened at the terminus 
of the road downtown, with the tombstone in his 
arms. Imagine the laughter of everj^body near by 
as Bass sleepily staggered out of the car into "Win- 
dust's, and then again started for home with his 
stony bedfellow." The funniest part of the story 
was this: "It was a verj- dark night, and the way 
311 



THE AMERICAN METEOPOLIS 

to Bass's home from the car was so hard to find 
that his wife, afraid that he might not find the 
house, stuck a vast number of candles in the win- 
dows, and thus made a brilhant ilhimination to 
show him the way. You can picture her surprise 
and amusement when Bass walked in the next 
morning with the tombstone in his arms and told 
the story I have been telling you now." Among 
the other frequenters of the place were Robert E. 
Lee, Miles O'Reilly, William T. Porter ("Tall Son 
of New York"), Henry J. Raymond, Horace Gree- 
ley, and A. T. Stewart; and it is said that during 
the draft riots of 1863 Horace Greeley hid under 
one of the tables while a mob was rushing through 
Park Row. There was an old sign over the beef- 
steak broiler with this quotation from "Macbeth": 
"If it were done, when 'tis done, 
Then 'twere well it were done quickly." 

All the accounts of Windust agree in declaring that 
the social atmosphere of the place was remarkable 
for its freedom, its geniality and its purity. It is 
a delightful recollection of old New York. 

The frequenters of Sweeney's eating-house were 
generally of a different character from those who 
wont to Windust's and Sandy Welsh's Its star 
character was the infamous Captain Isaiah Rj-nders, 
the political boss of the old Sixth Ward, the leader 
of the "Dead Rabbits," the "Plug Uglies," and 
the "Empire Club," which comprised the criminal 
adjuncts of Tammany Hall. Rynders was always on 
hand at mobbing anti-slavery meetings. It is written 
312 



I 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

that, once when Wendell Phillips was announced 
to speak at the Broadway Tabernacle, near Worth 
Street, Rynders announced publicly that he and his 
cohorts would wreck the building and mob the audi- 
ence. The trustees of the Tabernacle then sent word 
to Phillips that he could not speak there, so Henry 
Ward Beecher invited him to speak at Plymouth 
Church, Rynders and his thugs went over" there, 
and were allowed to enter the church; but they 
were overawed by a goodly company of armed and 
determined men, who had gathered there to defend 
the orator. The great Phillips used his choicest in- 
vectives against slavery, and scarified Rynders and 
Tammany Hall; but on that occasion the disciples 
of brutal force maintained a discreet silence. Subse- 
quent to 1850 Sweeney moved to 66 Chatham Street, 
and there his patrons were more at home than they 
had been in Ann Street. The building he occupied 
is Hall's Hotel, at the corner of Duane Street. 

There are eating places innumerable, and there 
is business for them all. 

In and around this block both of these proposi- 
tions may be verified. The leading restaurant is 
Mouquin's, which runs through to Fulton Street, 
and uses two large floors, that are filled to over- 
flowing during the busy hours of the day. This 
place divides the highest trade of the locality with 
the Astor House. Its bill of fare is large and va- 
ried. Its French features attract the Gallic ladies 
and gentlemen from all the lower part of town, as 
well as many Americans who enjoy French cook- 
N-i 313 



THE AMERICAX METROPOLIS 

ing. This is the place for cheese, coffee aud wines. 
It has grown from a small beginning, and the old 
French couple who keep it cannot be persuaded by 
their American sons to make improvements on their 
old methods. The great quantities of food which 
are consumed on the second floor are carried up- 
stairs from the kitchens by the hands of waiters, 
and every dish as it is borne up from the base- 
ment is carefully scrutinized and catalogued by a 
man who has a desk at the head of the stairs, 
and who charges the waiter with it. Here j^ou 
will see jolly red-faced old dogs, talking loudly in 
mellifluous tones, with occasional nasal periods, and 
sipping wine that seems to go immediately to the 
ends of their tongues. Snails and frog's legs are 
common orders. Over there sits a self-reliant young 
woman, who has walked in without looking to the 
right or left. She quietly orders her escargots and 
small bottle, and with a showy unconcern spears 
the martyred snails, extracts them from their houses, 
masters the impulses of her diaphragm, and assists 
their slimy voyage down her oesophagus with sips of 
sparkling liquor. The eager j^oung gentleman across 
the aisle, fastidiously picking curious bones, and im- 
periously croaking gar-son-n-ng, between bites, does 
not succeed in so much as to get even a glance 
from the devotee of escargots; but he will order 
the crawling gasteropods next time, and so try to 
change his luck. This is a good place to spend an 
hour in studying character. 

A few doors from Mouquin's is a place famil- 
:U4 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

iarly known through the neighborhood as "Delmoui- 
co's"; because it does not resemble any of those 
famous restaurants, and because the amiable proprie- 
tor frequently reminds his motlej^ crowd of patrons 
that the pastry which he sells to them at five cents 
apiece is the very same as that which is sold in 
Delmonico's at two and three times the price. If 
you will join the crowd of street peddlers, clerks, 
printers, storekeepers, merchants and lawyers, who 
climb up on the high stools and catch the succu- 
lent pies, the massive sandwiches, and the fabled 
pastries that are thrown at them by the proprietor 
and his rosy-faced German helpers, you will be an- 
noyed, perplexed, amused, and finally will devour 
your viands with gusto. The proprietor is a well- 
read and witty man, is apt at quotations, and is 
on the best of terms with his customers, between 
whom there is a veritable caniraderie. There is 
a half-past one club, which keeps the air full of 
chestnutty jokes and the sound of champing teeth, 
while the waiters dazzle the vision by rapid move- 
ments with food, cups, plates and towels. With 
thenj, a meringue pie is a "corrugated roof," a 
"Napoleon" is a "fallen greatness," and a "turn- 
over" is a "wind-bag." If you go once, you may 
go again, and you may not. It is a good place 
for the philosopher to alternate with Mouquin's. Dr. 
Chauncey Shaffer, the eminent lawyer-preacher, for 
years before his recent death, made a daily lunch 
there of three hard-boiled eggs, peeling off the shells 
with his fingers and dropping them on the floor un- 
315 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

der bis stool, according to the custom of the place, 
while choice bon mots dropped from his lips. He 
Avas the only "diner" who could fairly measure 
swords with the proprietor in the contest of clas- 
sical quotations, which daily takes the place of nap- 
kins in supplying an atmosphere of refinement. A 
rare philosopher Avho maj' be met there daily is 
the stanch old printer Wynkoop, whose avenue of 
nourishment is never in a satisfactory position for 
use unless his feet are twisted into the highest 
round of his high stool, and his knees are support- 
ing his chin; then, with his gaunt frame comfort- 
ably adjusted to the task, his kindly eyes beam out 
of his leathery countenance, and he mixes coffee-sip- 
jjing and pie-mastication with speech-jewels, which 
float out over the incarnated appetites about him in 
healthy, hopeful and helpful agglomeration; as he 
gives his old-fashioned American opinions on the 
various questions of the da}'. Another odd char- 
acter is the Rev. XYZ, a preacher with a flock, 
but independent of a church. A low browed, heavy, 
smooth-shaven face, with large teeth and underlip, 
shaggy eyebrows and inquiring eyes, sometimes 
shaded by blue glasses, stooping shoulders, and sid- 
ling walk — these you observe, all properlj'^ incased in 
rusty black and covered with slouch hat. His plan 
of operations is unique. In his breast pocket is a 
list of his patrons. They subscribe one dollar a year 
apiece for his support, and he agrees to go w^here- 
ever they may send him during the year, to minis- 
ter to the sick, to pra.y with the dying, to visit 

air. 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

the distressed, and to help bury the dead. "When 
he isn't ministering he soheits subscriptions, and 
when he isn't soliciting he ministers. He is always 
busy, and wastes no time in useless conversation. 
He cracks no jokes with the jolly boys, but si- 
lently eats his unvaried lunch, of a cup of coffee 
ivith extra milk, five crullers and a glass of water, 
and goes on about his business. Surely he doesn't 
squander his contributions in high living; but per- 
haps a brighter diet would not hurt him or his 
work; and Herr Gehlen's ample sweet cider might 
help the crullers along. The missionary got a sub- 
scription from the proprietor by an apt quotation 
of the last lines of "Childe Harold": 

"Fain would I waft such blessings upon thee 
As with a sigh thou mightst have been to me. " 

The pie seller recognized the quotation at once, cor- 
rected a slight inaccuracy by inserting "I deem" in 
the second line, and said it was worth a dollar. 
Just then a wagon rattled noisily past the door, 
and he said, "In time we shall be rid of such 
noises. All noise is symbolistic of barbarianism. It 
is bound to go. Rubber tires will fix the wagons." 
Is not Herr Gehlen a philosopher? A well-known 
lawyer, who "dines" there daily, insists that our 
movements to improve the police machinery are 
wrong, morally and scientifically; that the only 
way to do is to convert the criminals and get rid 
of courts and policemen. So much for a daily diet 
of pie. 

The philosopher of "Delmonico's," like those of 
317 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

ancient Greece, has his faithful followers, who wor- 
ship him, and who catch and treasure up the words 
that fall from his lips. His immediate retinue of 
assistants are unmarried men; for he says that he 
has figured it up, and demonstrated to his satisfac- 
tion that a home cannot be respectably supported 
on the wages which he pays, and therefore to em- 
ploy married men would be to lead them into temp- 
tation. When the high qualities of the philosopher 
are mentioned in the hearing of one of these young 
men, he will roll his eyes in ecstasy and add his 
humble tribute of praise for the master. The other 
da>- Fritz said, "There is no other man like the 
Boss. He is the most wonderful man ever I heard 
of; here he is head waiter; he is also boss of the 
shop; he directs his farm; he is the landlord. He 
has no books, only these little scraps of paper on 
the shelf; it is all in his head; he knows what 
he must buy for the store and the farm, and when 
he must buy it, and when he must pay for it, and 
when he must pay his interest, and when his rents 
are due — all these things are in his head; and he 
reads Shakespeare. He reads Shakespeare!'''' At 
this climax Fritz's voice failed him, his eyes were 
raised heavenward, and he clasped his hands as 
though in devotion. We watched the philosopher 
for a few moments; it was late in the afternoon; 
the crowd had dwindled so that there were not 
more than four or five eaters on the high stools. 
A gentleman asked for a piece of ajiple pie; Herr 
Gehlen brought to him a cut of pumpkin pie in- 
318 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

stead, and said, "You have eateu apple pie daily 
for two months; you need a change. It is not well 
to continue one kind of pie so long." The cus- 
tomer nodded his thanks for the kindly admonition, 
and began to assimilate the pumpkin pie. The next 
gentleman seemed uncertain as to his desires, and 
the graceful "head waiter" tried to tempt him by 
pointing to the bowl of hard-boiled eggs, furnished 
from his own barnyard. The customer challenged 
him to a contest of wit by saying, "You do not 
expect me to eggsisf on that fare, do you?" A 
look of scorn spread over the classic features of 
the philosopher, who walked away, declining so 
puny a contest. The next man asked for a cup of 
coffee without sugar or milk. To him the sage un- 
bent, saying, "We call that here 'a plain, unvar- 
nished tale.' " The gentleman smiled, revealing a 
scholar's appreciation of the remark, "Will you 
not have some food with your coffee?" — "Yes!" 
said the patron, "if it is very light. Give me a 
charlotte russe." The host nodded and smiled as 
he reached for the dainty morsel, and said, " 'There 
is naught that lives 'twixt it and nothing.' — From 
Virginius, you know." He illustrated the difference 
between harmony and sj'mphony in this way: "Rye 
bread and Swiss cheese make harmony; add a 
piece of cheese cake and you have symphony." 
Here is the secret of "the Wagne?' Triology.'" 
His imitators he treats with scorn. The Bennett 
building barber tries to ape him, and to draw cus- 
tom by talking "science" to his patients when they 
319 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

are fastened down and he stands over them with 
gleaming razor. Said he to a man with bulging 

forehead: "Mr. S , do you think the old ' 'Gyp- 

shuQs' got them pyramids up all by humawe power?" 
(Answer through the lather): "No."— " Well, I'll 
tell you what I think. If one of those old ' 'Gyp- 
shuns' should come to life, and see them h'isting 
stones on top of the St. Paul building, he would 
say we beat the Dutch.'''' (l) Herr Gehlen says he 
ought to learn to be humane to his customers. The 
other day the president of the pie baking company 
tried to be smart by giving some alleged recollec- 
tions of the war between Greece and Turkey. The 
philosopher blandly remarked in reply: "How well 
you carry your years. That war, according to the 
books, was fought from 1821 to 1827." The presi- 
dent blushed and subsided. 

The place is simply the outgrowth of a little 
grocery store which was started there fifty j-ears 
ago. 

Thirty years back the proprietor began to sell pie 
and sandwiches to the office boj's of the neighbor- 
hood, corrupting man}' Hebrew lads with his tempt- 
ing ham sandwiches, and they kept coming and 
bringing others, until the sugar, the sand and the 
other grocery paraphernalia were crowded out en- 
tirely. Now the proprietor owns the building, and 
a beautiful farm in New Jersey', and is a man of 
means. This is an interesting little picture of prog- 
ress in New York. Right opposite to this place of 
refreshment is "Theater Alley," which in the palmy 
320 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

days of the Park Theater was the approach to its 
stage entrance, and was used by Keene, Cooke, Mac- 
ready, Kimball, Wallack, Forrest, Booth, Powers, 
Tree, Kemble, Matthews, Garcia, Hilson, Barnes, 
Blake, Wheatley, Povery, Placide, Fisher, and other 
famous actors and singers. 

In another store, nearer Broadway, is a typical 
cheap restaurant, largely patronized by laboring men 
and peddlers, who want substantial food for little 
money, and don't care to pay for style. Near b}^ 
is a St. Andrew's stand, where the newsboys and 
their impecunious elders get food at a cent or so 
a portion. In this short block are "Mouquin's," 
"Delmonico's," and a number of cheap restaurants 
and stands, and all are busj'. Around the corner 
on Park Row is Dolan's old time coffee and cake 
house, where a fortune has been made out of "sink- 
ers"; and close by is Dennett's, where an army of 
men and women, mostly clerks and copyists in the 
countless offices close by, is filled daily with moun- 
tains of food and rivers of coffee, to the accom- 
paniment of Scripture texts and the musical voices 
of pious waiters. The hum of hundreds of voices, 
the sharp battle cries of the waiters, and the rat- 
tling of millions of dishes, quite hush the annoying 
clatter of the wagons and cars outside the doors, 
and go a long way with the excellent food to sat- 
isfy the appetite. Other cheap and quick lunch 
rooms abound. At one, sandwiches and coffee can 
be bought on a three cent basis. At Hitchcock's, 
the waiters are picturesque relics of the Bowery boys 
321 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

of old. The}' take your grammatical and rhetorical 
order and deliver it in stentorian tones in this way: 
'^Ham An'! Draw One — Have it in the Dark!''' 
(I desire a plate of ham and beans, and a cup of 
coffee without milk.) In a moment your muscular 
waiter comes sliding down the aisle with piles of 
plates, pyramids of cups, and pockets full of spoons, 
knives and forks. He extricates your particular sup- 
ply and slams them on the table before you (the 
cups are thick and \\i\\ not break). Presently jon 
forget all your troubles and all the heart aches of 
life as the best cup of coffee in New York filters 
into j^our system, and moistens the sweetest ham 
and the most doneful beans that you ever ate. The 
cost — why nothing; that is, hardly anything. You 
pay as a matter of form. In this next restaurant 
is another crowd of men, with strained faces. In- 
genious machinery concealed under their hats aids 
tired jaws to chew with lightning speed and pre- 
cise dispatch. That they may the more easily at- 
tend to the business of the moment, they help them- 
selves to such food as pleases them, and then sit 
on chairs which have flat, hollowed arms, wherein 
they deposit their treasures of sustenance, and then 
devote themselves to business; jabbing their off el- 
bows into the bodies of their rear neighbors with 
each masticatory effort. The exercise over, they 
paj' their checks, rush frantically into the street, 
then relapse into a graceful walk, and stand on 
the corner and pick their teeth. This is the famous 
"Business Men's Quick Lunch." 
322 



XEW YORK CITY LIFE 

The Germans find their haven in the ''Stadt 
Keller,'' where food and drink are served on the 
presumption that the eaters weigh two hundred 
pounds on the average. 

At the corner of Nassau and Ann Streets is a 
French basement ^^ table cVhofe,-'' where a fair meal, 
consisting of soup, entree, roast and dessert, with 
mineral water or apologetic wine, may be had for 
lift}- cents. Around the corner, on Fulton Street, is 
a bakery lunch room, patronized by thousands, and 
a chop house. Close to Mouquin's, on Fulton Street, 
is Libby's excellent old oyster house, where can be 
had the best oysters at the most moderate prices. 
An oyster fry there is a revelation. So is a "Dan- 
iel Webster fish chowder" on Friday. The habits 
and methods of this old place have not changed in 
twenty-five years. 

Professor Peter Kalm wrote a description of New 
York in 1748. Speaking of oysters, he said: "Oys- 
ters here are reckoned very wholesome. Some peo- 
ple assured us that thej had not felt the least in- 
convenience after eating a considerable quantity of 
them." (Dear observant old soul!) "It is likewise 
a common rule here that oysters are best in those 
months which have an 'R' in their name; but 
they are not so good in other months. However, 
there are poor people who live all the year long 
upon nothing but oysters and bread." (What a 
fate!) On the other side of Mouquin's door is Bros- 
nan's liquor store, which is frequented by man}- old- 
time characters. This place was once occupied by 
323 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

Garibaldi; and his personal servant, a rough, hairy, 
grimy, wild old man, may be seen daily carrying 
pasteboard boxes for one of the factories on Fulton 
Street. 

GARIBALDI. 

BY JOHN G. WHITTIER. 

"In trance and dream of old, God's prophet saw 
The casting down of thrones. Thou, watching lone 
The hot Sardinian coast-line, hazy-hilled, 
Where, fringing round Caprera's rocky zone 
With foam, the slow waves gather and withdraw, 
Behold'st the vision of the seer fulfilled, 
And hear'st the sea- winds burdened with a sound 
Of falling chains, as one by one, unbound, 
The nations lift their right hands up and swear 
Their oath of freedom. From the chalk-white wall 
Of England, from the black Carpathian range, 
Along the Danube and the Theiss, through all 
The passes of the Spanish Pj'renees, 
And from the Seine's thronged banks, a murmur strange 
And glad floats to thee o'er thy Summer seas 
On the salt wind that stirs thy whitening hair — 
The song of freedom's bloodless victories! 
Rejoice, oh Garibaldi ! Though thy sword 
Failed at Rome's gates, and blood seemed vainly jioured 
Where, in Christ's name, the crowned infidel 
Of France wrought murder with the arms of hell 
Oil that sad mountain slope, whose ghostly dead. 
Unmindful of the gray exorcist's ban, 
Walk, unappeased, the chambered Vatican, 
And draw the curtains of Napoleon's bed! 
God's providence is not blind, but, full of eyes. 
It searches all the refuges of lies ; 
And in His time and way, the accursed things 
Before whose evil feet thy battle-gage 
324 



I 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

Has clashed defiauce from hot youth to age 
Shall perish* All men shall be priests and kings — 
One royal brotherhood, one church made free 
By love, which is the law of liberty!" 

It is worth one's time to go through the many 
restaurants of this neighborhood. To see how the 
people eat is to see how they live and how they 
do business. The shocking bad manners which Mr. 
Dickens saw in his American tour have almost dis- 
appeared. We have seen a man cut his apple pie 
into squares, put it into his glass of milk, and eat 
it with a spoon, wiping his mustache with his fin- 
gers; but that was better than scratching his head 
with a fork. 

We will resume our journey at Nassau Street. 
It was originally a narrow lane, leading from the 
rear of the Federal Hall at Wall Street to tlie 
Commons, now the City Hall Park. It was first 
mentioned as the "Street leading by the Pye Wo- 
man's to the Commons"; and later it was called 
Kip Street, The high buildings of recent years, 
which are being added to constantly, are making a 
can3"on of the street. Where it opens into Printing 
House Square, the storms rush through it with such 
frightful force that sometimes men are lifted from 
their feet by the winds and hurled against the build- 
ings. Where these great oflfice-buildings are, there used 
to be residences of well-to-do people, which changed 
into boarding-houses before they were succeeded by 
stores. Number 126 Nassau had a melancholy fame 
in 184:2, as the home of Mary Rogers, the beauti- 
325 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

ful girl who sold cigars in John Anderson's noted 
store on Broadwaj' near Duane Street. She was 
known to many of the prominent men who patron- 
ized Mr. Anderson's store, such as General Scott, 
James Gordon Bennett, Edgar A. Poe, Fenimore 
Cooper and Washington Irving. All admired and 
respected her. She disappeared, and her body was 
found floating in the river at Hoboken, horribly 
mutilated and disfigured. The secret of her murder 
was never solved. The "Mystery of Marie Roget," 
by Edgar A. Poe, is based upon this sad case, and 
gives his theory of the crime. 

In Ann Street, east of Nassau, stood one of the 
old churches, Christ Episcopal Church, built in 1794. 
Its first minister was John Pillmore, who left the 
John Street Methodists. Its present site is 71st 
Street and the Boulevard. The surroundings are 
anything but churchly now. 

The block between Ann and Fulton Streets is 
interesting ground. It was part of the pasture land 
of the shoemakers in old colony days, which is de- 
scribed in the records of the Register's office, in 
Liber 28 of Conveyances, page 125. In Revolution- 
ary times it was occupied by a public resort called 
the Spring Garden. 

The original "Herald" building stood where the 
Bennett building now stands. When Mr. Bennett 
moved his newspaper offices to Broadway he erected 
the Bennett building, which was the pioneer of the 
large iron office buildings. That was but a little 
more than twenty years ago. In 1875 it was bright 
326 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 



and new, and had many of the leading lawyers of 
the City for tenants. It was the talk of the City, 
and was written up in the newspapers as a won- 
der of architecture. People journeyed for many 
miles to see the "immense and massive structure." 
It was then only six stories high. The present Ben- 
nett building is a very different affair from the 
original building, and is a tribute to the genius of 
one of the remarkable men who have been evolved 




by the high pressure and the opportunities of the 
marvelous business life of the last few years. The 
building was enlarged; three stories were added to 
it, and the entire inside was remodeled and reno- 
vated without turning out the tenants, many of 
whom have remained in the building from the time 
it was opened. Mr. Pettit, who accomplished this 
work, borrowed on mortgage for the completion of 
his plans much more than the price which he paid 
Mr. Bennett for the land and the old building. He 
327 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

has made a specialtj' of buying old buildings in 
good localities, and renovating and improving them 
at a maximum of advantage and a minimum of ex- 
pense, so that thej' have wonderfully increased his 
original investments. Nassau Chambers, near Ann 
Street, and the surprising Downing building, at 106 
and 108 Fulton Street, are examples of his work. 
The main part of the Downing building is less than 
fifty feet wide, but is fourteen stories high, above 
the store. The total number of windows is over 
seven hundred. 

Downtown business life is much more exacting 
than it was a few years ago. We have now an 
era of steam at high pressure, and electricity at the 
danger point. Then, there was opportunity for re- 
laxation, and the disposition to enjoj' it. The old 
Bennett building had many interesting tenants, who 
knew and enjoyed each other, and were keenly 
alive to the chances for practical joking. Among 
them was Mr. S., an accomplished lawyer, and a 
rare linguist, artist and musician. He was a mas- 
ter at the piano and the organ. One day he ar- 
rived at his oflfice later than usual, and showed 
unmistakable signs of vexation and anger. He shut 
himself into his sanctum and astonished his part- 
ners and associates bj' frequently groaning, and 
pounding his desk. Presently he rushed into his 
outer office, his face tense and flushed with emo- 
tion. Turning to one of his associates, who had 
some musical taste, he said: "I appeal to you. 
You must understand me. I am going mad. It is 
328 



NEAV YORK CITY LIFE 

the result of too acute musical sensibility. You 
know that pestiferous new song about 'Grandfath- 
er's Clock,' don't you? — Well, you know it's perfect 
musical rot; but I've got it in my head and I can't 
get it out. The children sing it, the hand-organs pla}- 
it, the boys whistle it. The cats howl it on the back 
fence by night. At times I drive it out of my mind, 
and then a gutter band puts it all back again with 
malevolent force. What shall I do? What shall I 
do?" He was tenderly admonished and lovingly 
soothed, and a gentle friend took him down to 
Brosnan's. While he was under this influence other 
friends hurried about the building, begging all the 
tenants, and especially all office boys, to desist from 
their incHnations to emit the strains of the pathetic 
melody. A wink went with each prayerful request. 
In due time the victim arrived; he was smiling and 
quiet, having evidently found a calm in the storm. 
His peace was shortlived. A boy in the next office 
began to whistle : 

"Oh, my grandfather's clock was too large for 
the shelf, 
So it stood ninety years on the floor!" 

Then in the sanctum it was " !!! wsh! 

wurroo! .... !!" {ad. lib.). Then for fifteen min- 
utes, letter carriers, messengers, clerks, entered the 
office, each contributing his fragment of melody; and 
for fifteen minutes the air of the sanctum was blue 
%vith intermittent eccentricities. The crisis came at 
last. A gentleman who was not in the secret en- 
tered the office, and by accident he sang: 
329 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

"But it stopped! — short! — never to go again! 
AVhen the old — man — died!" 

The door of the inner office was flung open. Mr. 
S., a veritable wild man, rushed out, and seized the 
venerable citizen by the throat. His partners rescued 
the poor man, and made apologies. Mr. S. was 
frightened at his own violence, and called a cab 
and went home. The next day the joke leaked out, 
and Mr. S. was the head of a lunch table at the 
Astor House, at which were many of his tormen- 
tors. He was entirely cured. After that lunch it 
was a dangerous thing to say "Grandfather's Clock" 
in the Bennett building. 

The day for such doings is past. The Bennett 
building has been made over and now "Life is 
real," and "Life is earnest" — perhaps too much so. 

The newspapers and publications in their remark- 
able growth furnish as good an illustration as can 
be fovmd of the advancement and improvement in 
culture and taste that have been progressing so 
rapidly in our City; and while here on this old 
"Herald" block we may look for a moment at 
the advancement of that paper, which from the first 
has simply mirrored the condition of the times, 
never pretending to have anj" special convictions of 
its own. 

We have in our hands the first number of the 
"Morning Herald," dated May 6, 18:35. It is 
printed on a double sheet containing four pages 10* 
inches wide by 14 inches long. Its price was one 
cent. The first word of the first item contains a mis- 
330 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

print: "Ptblished daily bj- James Gordon Bennett 
& Co., office Number 20 "Wall Street, basement 
story." The terms for advertisements were one 
square (sixteen lines) a j'ear $30, one square a 
single insertion 50 cents. Nearly the whole of the 
first page was devoted to a '■'' Biographical Sketch 
of Matthias the Prophet.'" The rest of the page 
contained a few lines about "Books,^^ and '■'Love 
for Shakespeare,'' and ''Fashions for April,'' and 
ended up with this line: "He who loves to employ 
himself well can never want something to do." 
The prospectus, on the next page, announced the 
policy of the paper. "Our onlj' guide shall be 
good sound practical common sense, applicable to 
the business and bosoms of men engaged in every- 
day life. We shall support no party, be the organ 
of no faction or coterie, and care nothing for any 
election or any candidate from President down to 
a constable. We shall endeavor to record facts, on 
every public and proper subject, stripped of verbiage 
and coloring, with comments when suitable, just, 
independent, fearless and good-tempered." Mr. Ben- 
net saw a field for the "Herald." He said: "There 
are in this city at least 150,000 persons who glance 
over one or more newspapers every day and only 
42,000 daily sheets are issued to supply them. We 
have plenty of room, therefore, without jostling 
neighbors, rivals or friends, to pick up at least 
20,000 or 30,000 for the 'Herald,' and leave some- 
thing for those who come after us." The publisher 
takes a fling at the "Sun" in a column entitled, 
331 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

"Police Reports," and it is greatly to be desired 
that the present managers of the "Herald" return 
to first principles as announced in the first issue. 
'■'■Police Reports. — In this department of news- 
papers there exists a gross want of taste, utility 
or propriety, and more especially among the small 
daily papers. Ignorance, insipidity and inanity reign 
triumphant. Take for example the following para- 
graphs extracted at random from the New York 
'Sun' and others: 'James Anderson was brought up 
on suspicion of stealing a coat; but whether he was 
guilty or not we could not learn, for he escaped 
from the hands of justice.' 'Robert Barnes "vvas 
charged with rioting and beating the watchman; 
but he also escaped from the watchhouse.' 'Robert 
McCormick, who was also similarly charged, en- 
deavored to be similarly circumstanced; he also 
tried to escape, but his wind gave out and he 
was caught and committed.' 'Three noisy drimk- 
ards, Joe Ward, Matthew O'Brien and Thomas 
McMahon, were each fined $2 for being drunk and 
were committed in default of payment.' 'Three 
peaceable drunkards, Jane Conkling, Bridget Mc- 
Gowan and William Edwards, were reprimanded and 
discharged.' This trash is headed 'Police Office' 
and pompously set forth 'Reported for the "Sun." ' 
Such may be found every day in their columns, 
and if we were to look further we might even dis- 
cover greater trumpery and more want of taste. 
Having been acquainted as editor with the business 
of the police office for years, we shall exclude all 
332 



NEAV YORK CITY LIFE 

such folly from our columns, and only trouble our 
readers with that species of reading ivhen there 
is something interesting or useful to relate. As 
one of the caterers for the public taste, we feel it 
to he our duty to say this on the subject of police 
reporting. [01^5 'Herald!' 'Herald!'] As we are 
generous and gentle, with this we shall stop, deem- 
ing it also somewhat irreverent toward a beneficent 
Providence to inquire too narrowly what are those 
motives, inscrutable to mortal ken, which disposes 
Him in His infinite wisdom to drop down block- 
heads here and there to edit newspapers, like weeds 
in a garden ere the rose has put forth its bud, or 
the hyacinth opened its blossom to the morning." 
Can anything so sweetly and gently sarcastic as 
this be found in the "Herald" to-day? We fear 
that the material progress so evident in this paper 
has been at the expense of the spirit of courtly at- 
tention to neighbors that is so beautifully illustrated 
in the foregoing article. 

That the editor of the original "Herald" had a 
fine sense of humor mixed with streaks of phi- 
losophy and prophecy is apparent from this news 
article, which is unique. 

"a small sample. 

"In a walk on a pleasant afternoon in the out- 
skirts of the City, three or four miles beyond the 
City Hall, on the borders of civilization, north of 
Washington Square, we found ourselves before a 
couple of small two-story houses that swarmed with 
333 



THE AMERICAX METROPOLIS 

pledges of love, or, iu plain language, young chil- 
dren, 'There's a colony!' said one. 'What a flock!' 
said another. 'Count them!' said a third. One, two, 
three, four, up to nineteen, between the ages of two 
and ten, were actually about the doors or poking 
their heads out of the broken windows. Three of 
the little girls had each a baby in her arms; a 
matron stood at the door with one on the breast 
and another at the foot, and two had their curly 
heads stuck through broken panes of glass. Half a 
dozen dogs, some of them as large as the children, 
were gamboling on the pavement on a perfect foot- 
ing of equality. Several pigs regaled themselves in 
the gutter. All seemed hardy, fat, contented and. 
delighted with each other. No monopoly, not the 
slightest, could be discovered. With such samples of 
populousness how can New York help being a large 
City." 

This was at Washington Square, on the outskirts 
of civilization! 

Here are two interesting news items. "John 
Calhoun, Henry Clay and Daniel Webster are 
in their resj^ective States, recreating their bodies and 
minds, and preparing for next year. The other Sena- 
tors may move about, and no one say, 'Who goes 
there?' " " Davie Crockett, at the last accounts, 
was grinning the bark off the trees in Tennessee." 
The news items are confined to a few announcements 
from England, three inches of ^'Theatrical Chat,'" 
four inches of '''Court Circular,''' and two and one- 
half inches of "A Steamboat Explosion.'' There are 
334 






NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

four and one-half inches of poetry, and eleven inches 
of a composition entitled, '^The Broken Hearted,''' end- 
ing with these eloquent sentences, "There is a realm 
where the rainbow never fades; where the stars will 
be spread out before us like the islands that slumber 
on the ocean; and where the beautiful things which 
pass before us like visions will stay in our pres- 
ence forever. Bright creature of my dreams! In 
that realm I shall see thee again. Even now thy 
lost image is sometimes with me. In the mysteri- 
ous silence of midnight, when the streams are glow- 
ing in the light of the many stars, that image 
comes flowing over the beam that lingers around 
my pillow, and stands before me in its pale dim 
loveliness, till its own quiet spirit sinks, like a spell 
from Heaven, upon my thoughts, and the grief of 
years is turned to blessedness and peace." The en- 
trancing lovehness of this anonymous essay is so 
steeped in the essence of sorrow that its dolorous 
effect must needs be neutralized, and it is imme- 
diately succeeded by a mirth provoking dialogue be- 
tween two Irish laborers, which is followed by two 
inches of melancholy, entitled, "T/ie Dying Infant.''^ 
The particular gem of the paper is entitled, '''The 
Female Heart.''' In these prosaic days we do not 
appreciate the female heart as did the quaint, expe- 
rienced Bennett, Sr. He said: "There is nothing un- 
der Heaven so delicious as the possession of pure, 
fresh, immutable affections. The most felicitous 
moments of man's life, the most exalted of all his 
emotions and sympathies, is that in which he re- 
335 



THE AMERICAX METROPOLIS 

ceives an avowal of affection from the idol of his 
heart. More priceless than the gems of Golconda 
is the female heart, and more devout than the idola- 
try of Mecca is woman's love. I would rather be 
the idol of one unsullied and unpracticed heart than 
the monarch of an empire. 1 would rather possess 
the immaculate and impassioned devotion of one 
high-sou led and enthusiastic female than the syco- 
phantic f awnings of millions." He then says of a 
prim lady: "She looks as if she was fed through 
a quill, and when she opens her mouth to yawn, 
you would fancy she was going to whistle." It is 
evident that a great deal of pains was spent in 
the preparation of this initial number of the new 
paper, and undoubtedly its advertising features were 
of the greatest consequence in that day as well as 
this. There are four columns of advertisements, in- 
cluding three "Houses to let," one "Furnished room 
to let," one ""Woman to do housework wanted," 
two "Shipping advertisements," and one "Albany 
steamboat advertisement." Bruce's New York Type' 
Foundry, of 13 Chambers Street and 13 City Hall 
Place, so well-known to New Yorkers of this daj', 
was advertised in that first issue, and immediately 
following its substantial announcement was the card 
of R. Glover, M.D., of 2 Ann Street, whose regu- 
lar course of study in medicine and surgery had, 
according to his views, fitted him to deal with a 
lot of horrible and unnamable complaint». The 
paper was published at Number 34 Ann Street, on 
the third story, at which place it was stated, "Or- 
336 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

ders will be thankfully received." The newspapers 
don't put it that way nowadays. If you do not 
take the papers you are condemned either to go to 
Siberia, or to acknowledge that you are a hundred 
years behind the times. 

James (Jordop Ber^rjett's public; Deelaratioo of Coue lr> 
tl?e "\ierald," Juoe i, 1840. 

"to the readers of the 'herald' — DECLARATION 
OP LOVE — CAUGHT AT LAST — GOING TO BE MAR- 
RIED — NEW MOVEMENT IN CIVILIZATION. 

"I am going to be married in a few days. The 
weather is so beautiful; times are getting so good; 
the prospects of political and moral reform so au- 
spicious, that I cannot resist the divine instinct of 
honest nature any longer; so I am going to be 
married to one of the most splendid women in in- 
tellect, in heart, in soul, in property, in person, in 
manner, that I have yet seen in the course of my 
interesting pilgrimage through human life. . . . 

"I cannot stop in my career. I must fulfill that 
awful destiny which the Almighty Father has writ- 
ten against my name, in the broad letters of hfe, 
against the wall of heaven. I must give the world 
a pattern of happy wedded hfe, with all the chari- 
ties that spring from a nuptial love. In a few 
days I shall be married according to the holy rites 
of the most holy Christian church, to one of the 
most remarkable, accomplished, and beautiful young 
women of the age. She possesses a fortune. I 
sought and found a fortune — a large fortune. She 
0-1 337 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

has no Stonington shares or Manhattan stock, but 
in purity and uprightness she is worth half a mil- 
hon of pure coin. Can any swindling bank show 
as much? In good sense and elegance another half 
a million ; in soul, mind and beauty, millions on mil- 
lions, equal to the whole specie of all the rotten bankts 
in the world. Happily, the patronage of the public to 
the 'Herald' is nearh* twenty-five thousand dollars 
per annum; almost equal to a President's salary. 
But property in the %vorld's goods was never my 
object. Fame, public good, usefulness in my day 
and generation ; the religious associations of female 
excellence ; the progress of true industry — these 
have been my dreams by night, and my desires 
by day. 

"In the new and hoh- condition into which I 
am about to enter, and to enter with the same 
reverential feelings as I would heaven itself, I 
anticipate some signal changes in my feelings, in 
my views, in my purposes, in nij^ pv^^suits. What 
they may be I know not — time alone can tell. My 
ardent desire has been through life to reach the 
highest order of human excellence by the shortest 
possible cut. Associated, night and day, in sickness 
and in health, in war and in peace, with a woman 
of this highest order of excellence, must produce 
some curious results in my heart and feelings, and 
these results the future will develop in due time in 
the columns of the 'Herald.' 

"Meantime, I return ni}' heartfelt thanks for the 
enthusiastic patronage of the public, both of Europe 
3'dS 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

and of America. The holy estate of wedlock will 
only increase my desire to be still more useful. 
God Almighty bless you all. 

"James Gordon Bennett." 

Announcement in "Herald," June 8, 1840: 
"married. 

"On Saturday afternoon, the 6th instant, by the 
Rev. Dr. Power, at St. Peter's Catholic Church, in 
Barclay Street, James Gordon Bennett, the proprietor 
and editor of the New York 'Herald,' to Henrietta 
Agnes Crean. What may be the effect of this event 
on the great newspaper contest now waging in New 
York, time alone can show." 

The contrast between the first number of the 
"Herald" and the 21,741st number, which was 
issued March 1, 1896, shows not only the increase 
of the paper, but the increase of the City, which 
it described from day to day. In the latter paper 
there are fifty-six pages, each 9i by 23^ inches, in- 
cluding one hundred and fifty-six columns of paid 
advertisements. The news articles are profusel}^ and 
graphically illustrated. The wrecking of the steam- 
ship "Ailsa," and the appearance of its passengers 
in the rigging on February 29th, are accurately 
pictured. Every part of the world has contributed 
its share of the news, and every department of litera- 
ture is represented. In the religious advertisements, 
giving long lists of churches, sermons and services; 
the "personal" advertisements, reeking with lecher- 
ousness; and the advertisements of "specialists," 
339 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

pointing conclusive!}' at vice and crime; the "want*' 
columns and the page advertisements of the great 
emporiums; the advertisements of "business oppor- 
tunities," and the reports of the great financial in- 
stitutions, many phases of the Cit^-'s life are shown. 
A Sunday edition of the "Herald," more than an}' 
other New York newspaper, truh' reflects the condi- 
tion of the Metropolis, and of the armies of people 
that inhabit it. To digest one such issue would re- 
quire a volume. Let it be onrs only to suggest to 
the investigator of life in New York that, though 
he may be overcome with the size and weight of 
the Sunday "blanket sheets," and while he may 
reject some of them as cheap, sensational and un- 
wholesome, he may always take up the "Herald" 
and make of it a most valuable stud}-. "We hope 
the day is at hand wlien its proprietor will discon- 
tinue its demoralizing "personal" colunm; but bad 
as that feature is, it is less unwholesome than the 
brutally frank descriptions and illustrations of crime 
which distinguish several of our most enterprising- 
papers. 

■^Vitll all the strength and enterprise of the "Her- 
ald" of to-day, its editorial page is remarkable for 
its weakness and vapidity. 

This is an editorial of July 17, 1895. 
"a word of warning. 

"Women have pets and the word pets is only 
another name for dogs. These pets are well enough 
in their way, but the}^ should be kept in their proper 
places. A dog in your arms — well, when there isn't 

34:U 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

anything better to have there — is, if we may judge 
from observation, a rather soul satisfying thing; 
but if he puts his nose into your soup plate, it 
would be safer not to partake of the rest of that 
soup. It may seem incredible that a woman and 
a poodle should eat their food out of the same 
dish, but it is not an infrequent occurrence, and it 
should not be done, even though you are compelled 
to hurt the feelings of the dog by a refusal. 

""We must be allowed in this connection to recall 
an incident that occurred to notice. The woman 
was caressing her pet, fondling it, kissing and hug- 
ging it. If one's emotional nature must needs vent 
itself in this way, one should at least be prudent. 
In the instance to which we refer the dog had 
evidently contracted some disorder, and the contact 
between its nose and her lips transferred the dis- 
order to her. She suffered torments for a few days 
and finally died in great agony. 

"We are truly sorry to interfere with the rights 
of dogs, because we have great respect both for 
the microscopic sort and also for those so large that 
they have to be viewed in installments. They seem 
to be a great comfort to some people and to afford 
them even more happiness than religion. It is 
necessary, however, to simply remind the public 
that one can love a dog too much, and that the 
bestowal of affection on the animal may be, as it 
has been, carried beyond the danger point. Be a 
little careful about this matter, that's all." 

Here is another editorial from the same paper. 
341 



THE AMERICAX METROPOLIS 

"that spook. 

"It IB not always necessary to mind what a 
ghost sfiys. When a sheeted and eccentric creature 
revisits the pale glimpsesj of the moon and makes 
himself visible to yon, listen to him respectfully, 
contradict him if he makes any preposterous state- 
ments, and then go about your business as though 
nothing had happened. 

"It is rather important to accept this advice, and 
if Robert Montgomery had acted on that policy he 
woidd be to-day among the jolly miners in Number 
Eighteen Colliery. He was a veteran of the war 
and never sneaked behind fence or tree; but a 
ghost has caused his death. Whether this ghost 
will be held in the Elvsian Fields on the charge 
of homicide, or whether Robert, now that he is 
dead, will be sent to an idiot asylum, we have 
unfortunately no means of knowing. We have cor- 
respondents in every quarter of the globe, but be- 
yond that limit we are like the weather prophets, 
and have to guess. 

"Robert was down in the mine, several hundred 
feet below the reach of sunshine, where only a dim 
religious light prevailed, and he heard strange 
noises, so he said. Then a cold draught swept by 
him, as though some bird of evil omen were flap- 
ping its Avings. A little later he saw a form, 
clothed in white, but to his questions he got no 
answer. Robert remarked to his comrades that he 
had been 'called.' He was in robust health, with- 
out ache or pain, but he went straight to bed, and 



I 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 



the notion that he was going to die so dominated 
his body that in the course of a day or two he 
really did die. 

"Now, we are all afraid of ghosts, whether we 
believe in them or not, but it isn't quite the square 
thing for a 'spirit' to come down into this lower 
region and frighten people to death. "When 
you see a spook take a blue pill and live." 



block, was 




Fulton Street at 
leave the old "Herald 
nally called Fair 
Street, and as late 
as 1728 it ran only 
to Cliff Street. Ful- 
ton Street west of 
Broadway was 
called Partition 
Street. Cliff Street 
was named after 
Dirck Van der Clyff, 
who owned the land 

from which it ran, oid North Dutch church. 

and whose orchard lay between the present John 
Street and Maiden Lane, east of William Street. 
At the comer of Fulton and William Streets 
was the North Dutch Church and its graveyard, 
the memor}' of which is perpetuated by The Fulton 
Street Daily Noon-Day Prayer Meeting. This church, 
which was erected in 1767, marked the growth of 
the denomination, which could not be accommodated 
343 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

in the Garden Street and the Middle Churches. 
The consistory had received the site as a donation 
from John Harpending, the old shoemaker, before 
1722, and it was arranged that the building should 
front on "Horse and Cart Lane" ("William Street). 
Harpending's coat of arms, showing his hammer and 
awl, were painted on a board and hung over the 
pulpit. The building cost twelve thousand pounds. 
The graveyard received the remains of many promi- 
nent old citizens. The English soldiers in the Revo- 
lution treated the church with the same contempt 
that they showed for the other Dutch edifices. Thej' 
made a prison of it, and at one time eight hundred 
Americans were crowded into it, and they suffered 
greatly from hunger, cold, and sickness. Ethan 
Allen wrote of this place: 

"I have seen prisoners here in the agony of 
death in consequence of very hunger, and others 
speechless, sucking bones or even biting chips, and 
others pleading for God's sake for something to 
eat, and at the same time shivering with cold. 
Hollow groans saluted my ears and despair seemed 
imprinted on every countenance. They would beg 
for one copper or a morsel of bread. It is com- 
puted that 1,500 died in the course of four months. 
As the breath left their bodies, they were dragged 
out by the arm or leg, piled at the door, and there 
left till there was a cartload, when they were 
taken to the outskirts of the city and dumped into 
a ditch. Such was the end of many a brave sol- 
dier." 

344 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

The dishonored bodies of the dead were dumped 
on the open grounds beyond the Jews' cemetery near 
Chatham Square, where they were thrown promis- 
cuously into shallow trenches out of which they 
were often dug by dogs or washed by heavy rains. 
For years the bleaching bones could be seen, Ijung 
about, on the ground. When the Americans re- 
turned to the city in 1783, the edifice was reno- 
vated and the services then resumed were continued 
for many years. Finally the building was demol- 
ished and the bones in the graveyard were removed 
and carried to Greenwood Cemetery. This spot has 
its sacred memories. 

The first Firemen's Hall was standing on the 
north side of Fulton Street just east of Gold, 
in 1824, and it accommodated four primitive en- 
gines. 

The Moravian Church was on the southeast cor- 
ner of Fulton and William Streets. 

Through the street are scattered stores which 
date back to 1850. Such a store is that kept by 
James Fallon, a relic of the quieter days, who 
keeps on making shoes, the while shaking his head 
and regretfully saying that Fulton Street has been 
turned upside down in his time. 

The next street east is Gold Street. Like Cliff 
Street it was a lane running down to Dirck Van 
der Clyff's orchard. It ran over Golden Hill, rich 
in summer time with its yellow grain, and its 
curves are reproduced in the pavements and house 
fronts. A quaint old street is Gold Street and well 
345 



THE AMEEICAN METROPOLIS 



worth a trip, but we must return to Nassau Street, 
or we will lose our bearings. 

At the southeast corner of Nassau and Fulton 
Streets was the Shakespeare Tavern. Here gathered 
the literary men of old New York, among them 
being DeVVitt Clinton, Fitz- Greene Halleck and 
James K. Paulding. David Provost, called ''Old 
Ready Money," the daring and defiant Long Island 




Shakespeare Inn, Fulton and Nassau Sts. 

smuggler, was a regular visitor. He is buried in 
Jones Wood near the foot of East 71st Street. The 
Seventh Regiment had its origin at the old tavern. 
This magnificent regiment is descended from the 
11th Regiment of New York Artillery. The officers 
of that regiment met regularly at the tavern, which 
was a weather-beaten two-storied yellow brick build- 
ing with dormer-windows and garret, and a remark- 
316 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

ablj' ugly picture of Shakespeare hanging from an 
arm over the door. In 1826 the lltli Kegiment 
became the :i7th Regiment of Infantry. It was 
frequently called upon to defend the City in riots 
and to represent it in pageants. It marched in the 
fimeral procession of ex-President Monroe in 1831, 
in the reception to General Jackson in 1833, and 
in the funeral procession of Lafayette in 1834. It 
served the City in the riots of 1834, in the great 
fire of 1835, and in riots in 1836 and 1837. It 
marched in the funeral procession of General Har- 
rison in 1841, and in the reception to President 
Tyler in 1843. It did duty in the fire of 1845. 
It marched in General Jackson's funeral procession 
in 1845. In 1847 the State regiments were renum- 
bered, but the 27th Regiment was allowed to retain 
a part of its title, and it became the 7th Regiment. 
It defended the City's honor in the Astor Place riot 
in 1849, and in the riots of 1857 and 1858, and 
from that time to the present has been in the fore- 
front of the City's militia on every occasion that 
its services have been required. AVhile the regiment, 
as a separate organization, did not see any serious 
war services in the rebellion, it contributed over six 
hundred officers to the Union army, of whom three 
were major-generals, nineteen brigadier-generals, and 
twenty-nine colonels. Its gray uniform originated in 
the 11th Regiment in 1824, when it was an escort 
to General Lafayette. A private, Phielutes H. Holt, 
appeared in the street in his grny working coat, 
which fitted his trim figure snugly. At that time 
347 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

the officers were discussing a new uniform, and 
seeing Holt, they decided upon the gray suit, which 
has ever since been the basis of the 7th Regiment 
uniform. Tliis is not the place to describe the 7th 
Regiment, but it is interesting to note the progress 
of that excellent organization, from the time that it 
was organized in the ramshackle Shakespeare Tav- 
ern, to the present time, when it occupies an armory 
worth, with its fittings, a million dollars. 

At John Street we must diverge on either side. 
Number 15 John Street is the place where stood 
the little red frame theater that was in use before 
the Revolution, and where the British officers plaj^ed 
amateur theatricals during their occupation of the 
City. Major Andre had a part in several of the 
performances. It was gayly illuminated in honor of 
Washington's inauguration. The first theater in the 
City was in the rear of the Middle Dutch Church, 
the second was on Beekman Street, near Nassau; 
this one in John Street was the third, and the Park 
Theater was the fourth. The John Street theater 
was built in 1767, and performances were continuous 
until 177G, when the Provincial Congress recom- 
mended a suspension of public amusements. While 
the British occupied the City, numerous amateur 
entertainments were given. In 1786, Lewis Hallam 
reopened the theater with regular performances. 
Thomas Wignell was the leading actor. The mother 
of Edgar Allan Poe (then Miss Arnold), was a 
member of the company. When President Wash- 
ington resided in New York City, he frequently 
348 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

attended the performances in the John Street thea- 
ter, which, with all their crudeness, pleased and 
diverted him. There he saw '*The School for Scan- 
dal," "Every one has his Fault," "Poor Soldier," 
and "Darby's Return." In his diary, under date 
of Tuesday, November 24, 1789, he made this rec- 
ord: "A good deal of company at the levee to-day. 
Went to the play in the evening. Sent tickets to 
the following ladies and gentlemen, and invited them 
to take seats in my box; viz., Mrs. Adams (lady 
of the Vice-President), Greneral Schuyler and lady, 
Mr. King and lady, Major Butler and lady. Colonel 
Hamilton and lady, Mrs. Greene — all of whom ac- 
cepted and came, except Mrs. Butler, who was 
indisposed." On one occasion the great Wignell 
played "Darby," who was supposed after a trip 
abroad to have returned to the United States, and 
to have observed the inauguration. The actor sang 
this song at "Washington, who was near the stage: 

"A man who fought to free the land from woe, 
Like me, had left his farm, a soldiering to go ; 
But having gained his point, he had, like me. 
Returned his own potato-ground to see. 

"But then he could not rest. With one accord. 
He is called to be a kind of —not a lord — 
I don't know what; he's not a great man, sure. 
For poor men love him just as he were poor — " 

and "the interest expressed by the audience in the 
looks and changes of countenance of the great man 
became intense . ' ' 

Washington's adopted son said: "In New York, 
349 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

the play -bill was headed, 'By particular desire,' 
when it was announced that the President would at- 
tend. On thr>se nights the house would be crowded 
from top to bottom, as many to see the hero as 
the play. Upon the President's entering the stage-box 
with his family, the orchestra would strike up 'The 
President's March' (now 'Hail Columbia'), composed 
by a German named Feyles, in '89, in contradistinc- 
tion to the march of the Revolution, called 'Wash- 
ington's March.' The audience applauded on the 
entrance of the President, but the pit and gallery- 
were so truly despotic in the early days of the 
republic that, so soon as 'Hail Columbia' had ceased, 
'Washington's March' was called for by the deafen- 
ing din of a hundred voices at once, and upon its 
being played, three hearty cheers would rock the 
building to its base." 

On the other side of the Street, between Nassau 
and William, is the site of the first Methodist 
Church in America. Although the original building 
is gone, the pulpit from which John Wesley preached 
is there, and so is the clock that ticked for him. 

The Methodist Church has been a mighty force 
in tiie development of the nation, and it has had 
much to do with the extension of civilization, edu- 
cation and popular religion. It was begun and or- 
ganized in our City. To Barbara Heck must be 
given the credit for its beginning. She was a 
plain woman, who came to America with some 
friends and kinsmen who had been converted ac- 
cording to the Wesley an idea in western Ireland. 
350 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 



Calling at the house of other associates, she found 
a company of them playing cards. They had not 
held any religious service since their arrival in 
America, and she rebuked them, and then called 
on her cousin, Philip Embury, who had been an 
exhorter in Ireland, to hold a class meeting and to 
preach to them. The rebuke was received kindly, 
and Embury organized a class meeting at his 
humble home in the 
street now called City 
Hall Place. The meet- 
ings were successful, 
and the worshipers, 
needing a larger room, 
moved to the rigging 
loft at 120 William 
Street, in which the 
Baptist Church was af- 
terward formed. Cap- 
tain Thomas Webb was 
the drill master at Al- 
bany. He, too, was a 
Wesleyan; and hear- 
ing of the meeting in 
William Street, he came down unannounced, and 
marched in while the service was proceeding. He 
was in full uniform, carried a sword, and wore a 
great bandage around his head to conceal the loss 
of an eye. At first the people were alarmed; but, 
discovering his purpose, they invited him to preach, 
which he did, with his sword placed on the Bible, 
351 




First Methodist Episcopal Church, 
I'JO AVilliani St. 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

holding it open to his text. Thereafter Captain 
"Webb preached for them frequentl}', and he was a 
might}' addition to the Httle company. 

The Methodists received a heartier welcome in 
New York than was given them in England ; and 
when the time came to build a church, contribu- 
tions were made by people of all the other denom- 
inations. This, however, was not a strange thing 
to occur in tolerant New York. Mary Barkley, the 
widow of the second rector of Trinity Church, 
leased the John Street site to the Methodists in 
1708, and in 1777 they bought it. Among the con- 
tributors were Judge Robert Livingston, Mayor 
James Duane, Recorder Delancey, the Lieutenant- 
Governor, and Trinity Church. Embury, the first 
preacher, worked as a carpenter on the building, 
and preached the dedication sermon. It was unlaw- 
ful for dissenters from the Church of England to 
build houses of worship; but at the suggestion of 
the City authorities a fireplace and chimney were 
put in the building, Avhich was then classed as a 
dwelling. John Wesley was informed of the organi- 
zation, and he sent Asbury to give a formal conse- 
cration to the church and its ministers. 

In 1760 the Methodist Church numbered six per- 
sons, now it is the largest Protestant denomination 
in America, having millions of members and Sun- 
day-school scholars, owning immense properties, and 
sustaining thousands of churches, besides schools, 
seminaries and colleges. 

The John Street church is more venerated than 
352 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

any other Methodist buildmg in the land, and it is 
loved by the many evangelists of other denomina- 
tions, who have adopted the ideas and religious 
methods of the Wesleyans. In this church, and the 
structure which preceded it, nearly all the great 
Methodist ministers and bishops have preached. The 
present society is small, and many of its members 
come from Brooklyn; but they have a loyal ambi- 
tion to sustain the historic societj^ and such help 
as is needed is not lacking from members of the 
denomination who worship in other churches. 

In the early days, when this neighborhood was 
filled with the dwellings of thrifty people, the John 
Street church was a place of great activity, and 
its free and unconventional meetings, contrasting 
greatly with the services of the staid Dutch and 
the formal Episcopalian churches, appealed strongly 
to the common people, whom it attracted in large 
numbers. As an example of the peculiar power of 
that church in those days, we cite the case of John 
Reid, from whose descendants the Methodists have 
gained preachers and men of wealth and business 
success. 

Mr. Reid arrived in New York, a poor immi- 
grant, with his family. They were dressed in the 
plainest old-country clothing. He was a strict church- 
man, and on his first Sabbath in America he went 
out to find a church. He reached the door of old 
Trinity, and entering, was shown into a dark and 
dingy pew, under the front gallery, far from the 
pulpit, marked, "For Strangers." He was sad, 
353 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

lonely and sensitive, and had the impression that 
the people about him were whispering about his 
poor clothes. He spent an uncomfortable hour, and 
left with the resolve that he would never enter the 
church again. On the following Sunday, while 
strolling through the streets, he passed the John 
Street church, and saw many people dressed like 
himself going in. He noticed that everybody who 
went in had a cheerful, smiling face. His preju- 
dices were very strong against dissenters; but he 
plucked up resolution to enter with the rest, and 
was seated in one of the best pews. He heard a 
very plain and helpful sermon. His strangeness 
wore off as he received hearty greetings and invi- 
tations to come again from those who sat nearest 
to him. He did return, and his family grew up to 
be Methodists. One of his children was the late 
esteemed missionary secretary, the Rev. John Mor- 
rison Reid, D.D., LL.D. 

The John Street Church still influences the neigh- 
borhood in which it stands. Daily its doors are 
thrown open at noon, and many business men go 
there for consultation and prayer. This meeting and 
tlie Fulton Street meeting are notable circumstances 
of the downtown business life. 

From the door of the church we may see a 
tablet on the building at the northwest corner of 
John and William Street, which tells us that the 
first blood of the Revolution was shed there. 

The Sons of Liberty had a Liberty-pole in the 
Common, opposite Montanye's Tavern, which was 
354 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

in the neighborhood of the present 252 Broadway. 
The British soldiers, whose barracks were along 
Chambers Street, cnt the poles down several times, 
and as often as they demolished them they were 
replaced, sometimes after severe encounter between 
them and the angry people. On January 13, 1770, 
a number of soldiers began to saw away at the 
pole, and some citizens interfering with them, the 
soldiers drove them into the tavern at the point of 
the bayonet, and then completed their work of de- 
struction. The bell of St. George's Chapel called 
the people together. Thousands of citizens gathered 
and denounced the outrage, and formally resolved 
that any soldiers found acting in the same manner 
again would be deemed to be the people's enemies. 
The next day three soldiers posted up handbills that 
ridiculed the citizens' meeting, and they were 
promptly arrested by citizens, who disarmed them 
and started with them for the mayor's office, in 
the City Hall at Broad Street. The battle of 
Golden Hill resulted. This account of the battle 
was published in the New York "Journal," March 
1, 1770. 

"The soldiers, determined to execute their proj- 
ect, availed themselves of the dead hour of the 
night, and at one o'clock they cut down the Pole, 
sawed and split it in pieces, and carried them to 
Mr. Montanye's door, where they threw them down 
and said, 'Let us go to our barracks.' 

"This act so exasperated the citizens that they 
concluded, with the assent of the authorities, to pull 
355 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

down an old house which was sometimes used as 
a barrack by the soldiers, and also a fortification 
or shelter, to cover their retreat when engaged in 
pulling down this pole. The soldiers drew their 
cutlasses and bayonets, and dared the inhabitants 
to come and pull it down. The magistrates and 
officers, however, interposed, but the soldiers were 
bent on further insult to the citizens; so they pub- 
lished a handbill, reflecting on their place of meet- 
ing {ivhich they called) the Gallows Green, a vulgar 
phrase for a common place of execution, for mur- 
derers, robbers, traitors and rioters; to the latter 
they compare the Liberty Boys, who have nothing 
to boast of but the flippancy of tongue, etc. Mr. 
Isaac Sears and Mr. Walter Quackenbos, seeing six 
or seven soldiers going toward the Fly Market, 
concluded they were going to it to put up some of 
the above (handbills) papers; upon the former com- 
ing to the market, they made up to the soldiers, 
and found them, as they had conjectured, pasting 
up one of the papers. Mr. Sears seized the soldier 
that was fixing the paper, by the collar, and asked 
him what business he had to put up libels against 
the inhabitants? and that he would carry him be- 
fore the Mayor. Mr. Quackenbos took hold of one 
that had the papers on his arms. A soldier stand- 
ing to the right of Mr. Sears drew his bayonet; 
upon which the latter took a ram'.s-horn, and threw 
it at the former, which struck him on the head; 
and then the soldiers, except the two that were 
seized, made off, and alarmed others in the bar- 
35G 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

racks. They iinniediateh- carried the two to the 
Mayor, and assig-ned him the reason of their bring- 
ing- them before him. The Mayor sent for Alder- 
man Desbrosses, to consult on what would be proper 
to be done in the matter. In the meantime, a con- 
siderable number of people collected opposite to the 
Mayor's. Shortly after about twenty soldiers, with 
cutlasses and bayonets, from the lower barracks, 
made their appearance, coming to the Mayor's thro' 
the main street. When they came opposite to Mr. 
Peter Remsen's, he endeavored to dissuade them 
from going anj^ further (supposing they were going 
to the Mayor's), represented to them that they 
would get into a scrape; but his advice was not 
taken, owing, as he supposes, to one or two of their 
leaders, who seemed to be intoxicated. The people 
collected at the Mayor's determined to let them pass 
by peaceably and unmolested, and opened for them 
to go thro'. Captain Richardson and some of the 
citizens, judging they intended to take the two sol- 
diers from the Mayor's by force, went to his door 
to prevent it. When the soldiers came opposite to 
his house, they halted; many of them drew their 
swords and bayonets ; some say they all drew ; but 
all that were present agree that many did, and 
faced about to the door, and demanded the soldiers 
in custody; some of them attemi)ted to get into 
the house to rescue them; Captain Richardson and 
others at the door prevented them, and desired 
them to put up their arms, and go to their bar- 
racks; that the soldiers were before the Mayor, who 
357 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

would do them justice; the soldiers within hkewise 
desired them to go away to their barracks, and 
leave them to the determination of the Mayor. Upon 
the soldiers' drawing their arms, many of the in- 
habitants, conceiving themselves in danger, ran to 
some sleighs that were near, and pulled out some 
of the rungs. The Mayor and Alderman Desbrosses 
came out, and ordered the soldiers to their barracks. 
After some time they moved up the Fly. The 
people were apprehensive that, as the soldiers had 
drawn their swords at the Mayor's house, and there- 
by contemned the civil authorities and declared war 
against the inhabitants, it was not safe to let them 
go thro' the streets alone, lest they might oiier 
violence to some of the citizens. To prevent which 
they followed them and the two magistrates afore- 
said to the corner of Golden Hill (John Street and 
Pearl), and in their going, several of the citizens 
reasoned with them on the folly of their drawing 
their swords, and endeavored to persuade them to 
sheathe them, assuring them no mischief was in- 
tended them, but without success. They turned up 
Golden Hill, and about the time they had gained 
the summit, a considerable number of soldiers joined 
them, which inspu-ed them to reinsult the magis- 
trates, and exasperate the inhabitants; which wns 
soon manifested by their facing about, and one in 
silk stockings and neat buckskin breeches (who is 
suspected to have been an officer in disguise) giving 
the word of command, 'Soldiers, draw your bay- 
onets and cut your wa}' through them,' the former 
358 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

was iniDiediately obeyed, and the}^ called out, 'Where 
are j'our Sons of Liberty now?' and fell on the 
citizens with great violence, cutting and slashing. 
One of them made a stroke with a cutlass at Mr. 
Francis Field, one of the people called Quakers, 
standing in an, inoffensive posture in Mr. Field's 
door, at the corner, and cut him on the right cheek; 
and if the corner had not broke the stroke, it would 
have probably killed him. This party that came 
down to the main street cut a tea- water man draw- 
ing his cart, and a fisherman's finger; in short, 
they attacked every person that they could reach, 
and their companions on Golden Hill were more in- 
human; for, besides cutting a sailor's head and 
finger, they stabbed another with a bayonet; two 
of them followed a boj' going for sugar into Mr. 
Elsworth's house; one of them cut him on the 
head with a cutlass, and the other made a lunge 
with a bayonet at a woman. During the action on 
the hill, a small party of soldiers came along the 
Fly by the market, and halted near Mr. Norwood's, 
where they drew their bayonets and attempted to 
strike Mr. Jon. White. After which many of the 
magistrates and officers collected together and dis- 
persed the soldiers." 

The battle occurred in the rear of the old house 
Number 122 William Street. 

Several of the Americans died from their wounds. 

On the next day in the market three of the sol- 
diers attacked a couple of old women who had 
spoken derisively of them, cutting one of them with 
359 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

a sword; and a party of them attacked Mayor Hicks 
in the neighborhood of Golden Hill; but were driven 
off by a crowd of the Liberty Boys, who often 
assembled at the old tavern at 122 "WiUiam Street. 
This was the first blood shed in the struggle for 
liberty, and it was the first physical resistance to 
the tyrannous acts of England's representatives. The 
effect of this conflict upon the people of the City- 
was startling and lasting. The church bells rang, 
calling the people together, and the excitement and 
indignation of the citizens was forcibly expressed in 
public gatherings. Two months afterward, British 
soldiers attacked the people in the streets of Boston, 
and shot several of them. These outrages called 
forth the thrilling speeches of the early patriotic 
orators, who again and again called for forcible 
resistance to the English government, in the name 
of those whose blood had been shed. The two old 
buildings at Numbers 122 and 126 William Street 
are in a very good state of repair. Number 122, 
which we have mentioned, was erected about two 
hundred years ago. Its foundations are solid, its fire- 
places big, its walls three feet thick, and its brick 
Holland's own. Its neighbor. Number 126, was 
built by the owner of Number 122 shortly- after the 
Revolution. The Lanthorn Club meets at Number 
126. It is composed of odd men of various callings, 
whose happiness is conserved by eating primitive 
dinners in old buildings, and scribbling on the walls 
between courses. In this weird assembly may be 
found Irving Bacheller, Willis B. Hawkins, Edward 
36U 



(^f^ 




<ai"" 



1^1 '^ 






''l|iii||riF^'i|5ill||j 



CIS' a'zjiiiirv- 






iiiim'i! 



Pi 




:s IN \s II. I.I AM ^'1 i;i:i' r, i;i:t\\ i in i 
STHEETS, IHlii. 

New York, V. 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

Marshall, Charles W. Hooke (Howard Fielding), 
Stephen Crane, John Brisbane Walker, Louis Klopsch, 
Paul Wilcox, and Van Eyrie Kilpatrick; and occa- 
sionally Alden, Howells, Gilder, Lathrop, Stoddard, 
and such bright lights are so filled up with Revo- 
lutionary yarns as to be induced to return to in- 
fantile days and write their names where Captain 
Kidd and General Putnam and Benedict Arnold and 
Lafayette and Provost-marshal Cunningham, and 
other shades, are believed to have enjoyed the pot. 

On the other side of William Street is a curious 
little basement store kept by a Greek named Papo- 
dopolo, who sells sponges and shells and curiosities 
of the seas. His wares come from every warm 
clime. There is a dreamy, briny, far-away suggest- 
iveness about the place and its sleepy Greek occu- 
pants, which carries you away from William Street. 
On a post close to the proprietor's desk are pencil 
memoranda of addresses. One address is in classical 
Mitylene. The next is in our own Exchange Place. 

At 131 William Street Washington Irving was 
born. His family moved across the street to Num- 
ber 128, where he passed his boyhood. Smooth, 
gentle and quiet, his sketches seem to show him; 
but he was a prankish youngster. It was his delight 
to straddle the ridge-pole of his home, make his 
way to a higher building next door, and drop big 
stones down its cliimnej^, to the amazement of its 
occupants, who could not understand how such 
things could be, except by the work of bad spirits. 
The "leatherhead" policemen of his day were always 
P-i 361 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

objects of tjport for the boys, and it is related that 
one night, discovering one of them asleep in his 
watch-box, young Irving and his friends lassoed the 
box and rushed off, dragging it after them, the poor 
old "leatherhead" shouting bloody murder, until they 
dropped him and scampered home. One ^day his 
nurse lifted him up to the great Washington for 
his blessing, saying, "Dear General Washington, this 
is the bairnie who was named after ye." The 
blessing came back in the shape of the exalted 
"Life of Washington," which we love to read. 

William Street was once the resort of ladies 
bent upon shopping. It was filled with dry goods 
stores. We would look in vain for such trade now, 
though at some hours of the day there are many 
women to be seen. They are not there to shop, 
however, but to perform the various kinds of work 
which have been opened up to women during the 
last few years. We remember well, how unusual 
it was a few years ago to meet women in these 
streets; but the development of the tj'pewriter, and 
the general use of shorthand in all classes of busi- 
ness, have given to women a field of work in which 
they have shown themselves to be competent and 
serviceable. It is an inspiring sight to see the 
nuiltitudes c»f self-reliant young women who have 
made themselv^es indispensable to the business of 
our City. They sustain themselves well, and they 
have lust nothing of their grace, carriage and 
character. There is no cit}' in the world where so 
many women are engaged daily in honorable call- 
362 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

ings, and there is no other city where they are 
more cordially received into business circles and 
stand more squarely upon their merits and receive 
a higher rating than they do in New York. 

William Street was first called Smith's Vly (or 
Valley), after the blacksmith whose shop was at 
Maiden Lane. The shoemakers' tan pits were in 
the north side of Maiden Lane east of William 
Street. 

Returning to the "Street that Leads by the Pye 
Woman's" we resume our stroll toward Wall Street 
and the Fort. 

The Reformed Germans had their church on the 
east side of Nassau Street between John Street and 
Maiden Lane. 

Thomas Jefferson, while Secretary of State, lived 
in Maiden Lane, 

The negro uprising of 1713 occurred in this 
neighborhood. There were then nearly five thou- 
sand slaves in the City. A number of them gath- 
ered in an orchard of Mr. Cooke, near Maiden 
Lane, and set an outhouse on fire. When the 
people came to put out the fire, they were mur- 
dered. A company of soldiers from the Fort dis- 
persed the conspirators. Over twenty of them were 
caught and executed, some of them being burned. 

Back of the Bryant building on Liberty Street 
is Liberty Place, and on that little alley, where the 
Real Estate Exchange and Auction Room stands, 
was the original Quaker meeting-house. Liberty 
Street was then called Little Green Street. The 
363 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

Quakers occupied this meeting - house from about 
the year 1770 until the time of the Revolutionarj^ 
War, when they built a larger place on Pearl 
Street between Franklin Square and Oak Street. 

In Liberty Street close to Nassau lived one who 
was not a Quaker, Captain Kidd. He used the 
first woven carpet in New Yoik. 

We are not far from the site of the First Bap- 
tist Church, which was erected on Gold Street near 
John about 17 GO, In 17f)-i the congregation was re- 
organized, and removed to the corner of Broome and 
Elizabeth Streets in. 184 -^ then in 1871 to Park 
Avenue and 39th Street. It is now on West 81st 
Street near the Boulevard. It has had only nine 
pastors since its founding. 

These blocks, so nearlj^ devoid now of chui'cli build- 
ings, saw the birth of most of the leading denomina- 
tions that are now so prosperous in our city. 

The block on Nassau Street between Liberty and 
Cedar is hallowed by memories which nmst ever 
be dear to us who treasure the record of heroism 
made by the men who devoted their lives to the 
securing of the nation's independence. The Mu- 
tual Life Insurance building has given grace, 
beauty and richness to the neighborhood, and shows 
our modern tendencies to their best advantage. The 
appearance of that block is so different from what 
it was only a few years ago that it is difficult for 
us to remember the old Dutch church that was 
used as a Post-office, and we almost doubt that we 
stand on the same spot. 

364 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

The Middle Dutch Church was built about 1728, 
to accommodate the increasing membership, and 
it was used regularly for worship until the Brit- 
ish occupation in 1776. The English soldiers, hav- 
ing no sympathj^ for Dutch churches, used the 
building at one time as a riding school for their 
cavalry and at another time as a prison. The Liv- 
ingston Sugar-house, which adjoined it on Liberty 
Street, was also used as a prison. When Fort 
Washington feU, through the treachery of its com- 
mander's orderly, the captured garrison was impris- 
oned in the church and the sugar-house. At one 
time there were three thousand prisoners in those 
two buildings, suffering the severest privations and 
miseries. There they were kept as prisoners, while 
their companions in arms fought out the unequal 
struggle. The treatment of these prisoners was 
grossly inhuman. They had meager rations of un- 
wholesome food, the buildings were not warmed 
even in the coldest days of the very severe winters; 
they had no supply of clothing, and no facilities 
for washing. Many of them sickened and died. 
There was no hospital service, and scarcely any 
attention was paid to dying men. The sick were 
not separated from the well. The beds were of 
straw, with a mixture of vermin, who were perpetu- 
ally hungry, because of the poor picking they had. 
For weeks at a time the death rate averaged ten 
a day. As men died, their bodies were dragged to 
the entrance of the church, and laj' there until they 
were removed to the "dead cart," which carried 
365 



THE a:.ierican metropolis 

them to the dumping ground beyond the "Jews' 
Burying Ground," or to the trench in the pubhc 
part of Trinity's graveyard. While those terrible 
sufferings were being endured with patriotic forti- 
tude, the British garrison of the City enjoj'ed life 
fairly well. 

The thousands of Americans who were held pris- 
oners in New York from 177G to 1783 were con- 
fined in the Jail, the Bridewell, Columbia College 
at the end of Park Place, the City Hall at Wall 
Street, the Quaker meeting-house on Pearl Street, 
north of Hague Street, the Presbyterian Brick 
Church (site of "Times" building), the North Dutch 
Church on Fulton Street, the Middle Dutch Church 
on Nassau Street, the Presbyterian Church on Wall 
Street, the Scotch Church in Cedar Street, between 
Nassau Street and Broadway, the French Church 
in Pine Street, near Nassau Street, the Rhinelander 
Sugar-house at Rose and Duane Streets, and the 
Sugar-house on Liberty Street, near Nassau Street. 
Everywhere they suffered. Mrs. Deborah Franklin, 
Mrs. Ann Mott, Mrs. Whitten, Miss Margaret Lent, 
Mrs. Penelope Hall, Mr. John Fillis, and Mr. Jacob 
Watson, were conspicuous for their friendliness to 
the prisoners and their efforts to mitigate their 
troubles. 

When the Sugar-house in Liberty Street was torn 
down in 1840, the names of manj" of the prisoners 
were found scratched on the walls and beams with 
pathetic messages. Many so etched their names, in 
the hope that their friends might afterward learn 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

of their fate. Sergeant Waddy commanded this 
prison. John Paulding, one of Andre's captors, was 
confined in the Dutch Church on Nassau Street, and 
escaped through a tunnel. His partner in the ven- 
ture, Azariah Clark, was caught, and was whipped 
within an inch of his life, and put in a dungeon, 
with nothing to sit or lie on except vermin and 
straw. He was afterward exchanged, in a pitifully 
emaciated condition. Judge Thomas, the hero of 
Westchester County, who was seized in his bed by 
British soldiers on March 22, 1777, died in the 
Sugar-house on Maj- 2, 1777, from the treatment 
he received, and was thrown into the ditch in 
Trinity churchyard, near the Pine Street monument. 
Commodore Talbot, one of our first naval com- 
manders, was a prisoner in the Sugar-house. 

Chaplain McCabe has told us of the bright side 
of life in Libbj* Prison, and there was a bright 
side to the darkness of the Sugar-house Prison. 
Blessed are those sunny dispositions which can ex- 
tract humor and comfort out of the hard circum- 
stances of life! Thej' relieve the pangs of their own 
suffering, and save others less hopefully constituted 
from utter despair and collapse. There were two 
bright sunny men among the herd of prisoners — Cap- 
tain Lord and Lieutenant Drumgoole. There was no 
circumstance, however discouraging and cheerless, that 
did not afford opportunity for the witty plays of these 
two, who, nevertheless, were as tender and gentle to 
the more unfortunate of their comrades as the best of 
nurses could have been. They were familiarly kno\vn 
367 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

as Orestes and Fylades. They instituted a court, 
taking turns as judge and prosecuting attorney, and 
many of their comrades were tried on charges of 
overfeeding and overdrinking. The humor of this 
situation was so great that it could not be retained 
within prison walls, and some of the young En- 
glish ofificers visited the prison to enjoy the fun of 
the trials. There was fun indeed, but not for the 
Englishmen, who were more or less "guyed," and 
whose hearts were touched by the sight of men 
who were thin and weak and dying, from lack of 
the necessaries of life, and trying to warm them- 
selves by laughing at their misfortunes. The Amer- 
ican ofificers soon received an invitation to dine 
with their visitors, and were delighted to find that 
some extraordinary arrangement had been made 
for them, whereby they were to be conducted from 
the prison to the place of their entertainment. Of 
course they accepted the invitation, and a rare 
time they had at the feast which had been pre- 
pared for them. This feast, however, meant better 
things than temporary relief. A negro who had 
been servant to one of the oflScers had made his 
wa}" to tlie city and had entered into the service 
of the English, so as to be near the prison where 
his master was confined. A few daj's afterward 
he came into the prison with a basket of pro- 
visions sent by the generous English soldiers, and 
what was better, communicated a plan of escape, 
which was followed by Drumgoole and Lord, and 
resulted in their deliverance from prison. They 
368 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

always believed that some of their English friends, 
touched by their distress, opened a door and neg- 
lected to shut it. 

To the brave but unfortunate men who, by the 
fate of war, were prevented from engaging in the 
struggle of battle, equally with those who served 
their country in the field, is due the gratitude of 
the nation, which has sprung out of patriotic sacri- 
fices. 

We should never pass this noble insurance build- 
ing without stopping to think of the connection be- 
tween that which we see and the scenes that so 
short a time ago were enacted upon the same 
ground. 

When the war was over, the City evacuated, 
and the prison emptied, the church was in a sorry 
condition. The marks of the hard usage of the 
soldiers were there, and the pathetic evidences of 
the sufferings of multitudes of prisoners were there 
too. Within the walls, consecrated by the death 
of many American soldiers, the returning people 
worked to restore their church so that it could be 
used for worship. It was a long time before it was 
fit for occupancy, but finally services were resumed. 
The last service was held in 1844. In 1845 the 
building was bought by the United States govern- 
ment for a post-office. It was unsuitable for this 
use, but there was a general demand for it, to 
which the government yielded. 

The land was bought for the church in 1728 at 
£575, was sold to the United States for $200,000, 
3G9 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

and was bought by the insurance company for 
$650,000. At that time the post-ofiSce was in the 
"Rotunda" which was in the City Hall Park. The 
merchants and bankers objected to its distance from 
the business center, and the church building was the 
only other available place for it. 

The announcement of the opening was as fol- 
lows: "Tl'e postmaster has great pleasure in an- 
nouncing to his fellow-citizens that the 7ieiv post- 
office building in jSTassau Street will be ready for 
occupation in a few days, and he respectfully in- 
vites them to view the interior arrangements of 
the establishment." 

The church was surrounded with a gravej^ard, in 
which many of the old citizens had been buried, 
and there were bodies in the vaults under the 
church. While the post-office authorities were con- 
ducting their business in and about the venerable 
building, the church people were removing the sleep- 
ers, who could not be allowed to remain undis- 
turbed to block the development of the City. The 
steeple of the church was used by Benjamin Frank- 
lin in his electrical experiments. 

The bell, which was made in Amsterdam, was 
hid b}' patriotic members of the church when the 
British soldiers entered the City, and it was restored 
to its place when they left New York. On the 
transfer of the property to the government it was 
removed to the Dutch Church which was in Dth 
Street, from which it was taken to the church in 
Lafayette Place, and finally was swung in the 
370 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

church on Fifth Avenue, at 48th Street, where it 
now is. There is an inscription on it, stating that 
it was a legacy to the Low Dutch Church of New 
York from Abraham De Peyster. 

The Mutual Life Insurance Company is an in- 
stitution which we need not be ashamed to see 
established on this spot, so long occupied by the 
Middle Dutch Church, and consecrated by the sacri- 
fice of the American Revolutionary prisoners who 
suffered and died there. The building itself is 
worthy of the spot, and, situated as it is, is a 
picture of the solid and enduring development of 
the good plantings of the past. The company itself, 
strong, conservative and influential, has gained its 
pre-eminence by adherence to business methods and 
honorable policy, in which we have reason to feel 
pride. 

It was organized in 1843, and its means were 
then so small that the president's salary was only 
fifteen hundred dollars a year, out of which he 
had to pay rent and current expenses. At the 
end of ten years it had nearlj- seven thousand pol- 
icies in force, and assets of $2,000,000. In 1853, 
Frederick S. "Winston was chosen president, and in 
the many years of his management he stamped his 
own noble character upon the corporation, which is 
a monument to his greatness and his goodness. In 
1861, the company had to face a great problem. It 
had many policy-holders in the South who were 
unable to communicate with the company and to 
send on their premiums. It would have been easy, 
371 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

and was considered expedient by other companies 
that were similarly placed, to let the policies lapse; 
but this company decided that the just course was 
to treat the policies as though they had been ten- 
dered to the company for surrender, and they fig- 
ured a cash value on each of the policies, and paid 
that value when it was possible to open communi- 
cations with the policy-holders. Another serious ques- 
tion arose at the same time. Soldiers were being 
enlisted for the Union armj^ and some of them held 
policies in the Mutual Life Insurance Company. By 
the terms of the policies thej became void on the 
enlistment of their holders. The company did not 
hesitate for a moment in standing for the Union. 
Its management was broad enough to see that 
patriotism and business ought not to be separated. 
The company established a "soldier's rate"; for it 
was obvious that it could not, in justice to its 
other polic,y-holders, accept soldiers' risks at ordinary 
rates. It carried the soldiers' policies upon its books, 
charging the special rate against the dividends, and 
paying the policies in cases of death. They even 
took new risks at this special rate. The following 
is a letter that was written to Captain Seymour, 
in Fort Moultrie, Charleston Harbor, on Decem- 
ber 26, 18')0, when the surrender of that fort to 
the Confederates was in contemplation : 

"Dear Sir — Your note of the 22d is before 
me. May God avert the insane outrage and the 
terrible calamity you contemplate; but if it comes 
372 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

to you now, while doing your duty in Fort Moul- 
trie, abandoned by the government that should sus- 
tain you, have no anxiety about your policy. So 
sure as there is a North on this continent, you 
shall be paid if you fall. On no spot in this land 
is so much interest concentrated as on the fort 
you occupy. May the Stars and Stripes wave over 
it forever. 

"Very respectfully yours, 

"F. S. Winston." 

It is a gratifying fact that the special soldiers' 
rate met the payments on account of soldiers who 
died in the service with a few dollars to spare. 
But the company went further: it backed up the 
financial movements of the government to the ex- 
tent of its ability, investing fifty per cent of its 
assets in the various issues of bonds, notwithstand- 
ing the attitude of banks and capitalists who 
looked upon them as doubtful securities, and hesi- 
tated or declined to take them. The company 
said, "If the bonds fail, we fail. If the country 
survives, we survive." It resolved also to take the 
paper currency, which was depreciated in value, at 
its face when paid for premiums. In every way 
that was possible it showed its faith in the gov- 
ernment, and linked its destinies with those of the 
nation. Again and again the company and its 
officers contributed money to the Sanitary Com- 
mission and the various other agencies for relieving 
the sufferings of the sick and wounded in the 
373 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

army. During the reign of the "Tweed Ring" 
there was a conspiracy by the chief rascals to get 
control of this great company by having it placed 
in the hands of a receiver by a Judge of the 
Supreme Court who was a member of the "ring," 
on a false allegation of its insolvency. The presi- 
dent, learning of these intentions, employed George 
H. Purser, a well-known lawyer, to save the insti- 
tution. The lawyer called on the judge and be- 
came satisfied of his intention to make the order. 
Another prominent member of the "ring" endeav- 
ored to bribe the lawyer into complicity. Then Mr. 
Purser obtained a certificate from the Insurance 
Superintendent showing that the company was sol- 
vent, and, calling upon the judge, he said that 
unless he received an assurance that the order 
would not be made, he would apply for an injunc- 
tion against his proposed interference with the 
company, charging him personall}- with conspirac3\ 
The determined attitude of Mr. Purser brought the 
judge to terms, he made the promise that was 
required of him, and thus the company was saved 
from the serious danger which threatened it 
(Lossing). 

This advertisement appeared in the New York 
"Gazette," March 18, 1739. 

"To be sold by Benjamin D'herriette at his house 
near the New Dutch Church, several sorts of Goods 
at very reasonable prices; viz.. Rhubarb at 5 1. per 
pound. Manna at 10 s. per pound. Juice of Liquor- 
lish at 4 s. »j d. per pound, three thred twine, Car- 
374 



NEAV YORK CITY LIFE 

tredge paper, very good brown ozeubrigs at 10 d. per 
ell. Good South Carolina Rice ai 12 s. per Hundred 
and very good Corks at 15 d. per groce, and very 
good light Deer Skins, Glass bottles and good painted 
Calicos. He has also a New Chaise and a Horse 
to Sell." 

The Presbyterians had an important church on 
the south side of Cedar Street, between Nassau 
Street and Broadway, which was built in 1761. 
It was founded by Scotch seceders from the Wall 
Street Church, who could not tolerate the ijew or- 
gan, which they called a "kist of whustles," and 
which they deemed to be a sacrilegious innovation. 
The church at 96th Street and Central Park West 
is the same corporation. 

Among the notable figures that once moved 
through this neighborhood was Aaron Burr. His 
law office was at Number 10 Cedar Street, and he 
lived in Maiden Lane prior to his residence at Rich- 
mond Hill. When he returned to New York, after 
the murder of Alexander Hamilton, he opened an of- 
fice at Number 23 Nassau Street, and from thence he 
moved to Reade Street (the barber-shop now standing 
near Center Street). While there he laid siege to the 
heart of Madame Jumel, who lived in the house which 
Washington occupied as his headquarters during the 
battle of Harlem Plains. He married her. Their 
life was misery. Broken in health and spirits, he 
returned to his office at Reade Street. His hold on 
life grew feeble. With the assistance of old friends 
he was moved to the Jay house at Bowling Green, 
375 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

where he hved, a moral and physical wreck, amid 
the scenes of his former glory. The house was 
torn down in 1836, and he was taken to Poit 
Richmond, where he died in obscurity and poverty. 
The ground east of this point, centering at "Wil- 
liam Street, was called 
"Pot-baker's Hill" in 
olden times. 

Pine Street, which 
" - Ave cross next, was 

called King Street be- 
fore the Revolution, 
and on the north side 

Fiench Gnmch Pine Stieet ^^f ^l^g street, Cast of 

Nassau, stood the church of the French Huguenots. 
James Duane, the first mayor after the Revolution, 
lived near the church. 

Pine and Cedar Streets were laid out in 169ii, 
through great patches of sweet clover. 




And now we come to the United States Sub- 
treasury, formerly the custom house, standing upon 
the spot which, after the old Fort, is the richest 
in historical associations within the City. This 
grand building, reproducing so excellently the lines 
of the ancient Greek temple, and containing hoards 
of precious metal, guarded bj^ the best known de- 
vices, stands on the site of the City Hall, to which 
the seat of government was removed from 73 Pearl 
Street, and which witnessed the inauguration of 
the first President, ^md became the first capitol 
376 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

building of the nation. Here for many years the 
spirit of freedom grew among the officers of the 
various Colonial and City Councils. We hope that 
this site may always be occupied by the national 
government. It has been used ia all the stages of 
national development, and it has never been dis- 
graced by lapses from patriotic and honorable prin- 
ciples. The spirit of freedom early found responsive 
souls here. Here, among the earliest voices to Hpenk 
for liberty, were heard the inspired words of patri- 
otic leaders. Here our forefathers Avrestled with 
English governors for popular rights. Here Mayor 
Cruger and the people's representatives met and 
denounced the importation of stamps, and resolved 
on a course of defiance to irregular taxation. Thej^ 
led the colonies in their revolt. They demanded 
from the royal governor the stamps which had 
arrived at the Fort, and they did not rest until 
they had compelled him to deliver them up for de- 
struction. Here great men consulted about the Revo- 
lution, and took measures for its success. Here the 
representatives of the State and of the Confedera- 
tion met. Here was transacted much of the busi- 
ness that put New York in the forefront of the 
Colonies and the States in the early construction of 
the Nation. Here the people rejoiced over the adop- 
tion of the Constitution. Here the machinery of the 
new nation was started. Here the people rejoiced 
over the culmination of the Revolution, and gave 
their prayers and themselves to their country. Here 
the first great measures for national life and pros- 
3?7 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

perity were adopted. On this little spot the three 
great branches of the government — the executive, the 
legislative and the judicial — touched each other, and 
began their diverse yet unified work, under one 
small roof. Although New York did not remain 
the capital city, this spot remained the nation's 
land. For many years it was occupied by the most 
important custom house of the countr}', and now it 
is the heaviest depository of national funds outside 
of Washington. Financial panics have raged about 
this temple of the nation's wealth, and many times 
has it furnished the means for the restoration of 
healthy circulation . 

In the century that has elapsed since Washington 
was inaugurated vast material changes have oc- 
curred; and the little struggling child among nations 
has leaped to the front of the world's progress. 
The old Fort has its associations that we can never 
grow weary in recalling, and the beauty and value 
of which will ever increase; but they are linked to 
the Colonial period. This treasury site will always 
hold our minds and hearts more closely, because it 
is the birthplace of the Nation. 

It was no fortuitous circumstance that made New 
York the nation's cradle. The place was wisely 
selected. The impulse for national strength, business 
principles and enlightened tolerance, then gained, will 
never l)e lost. 

Few of the multitudes of people who restlessly 
traverse the streets about the Sub-treasury allow 
their thoughts of stocks, and bonds, and oil, and 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

graiii, and lawsuits, to be disturbed by reflections 
about the fence, the wall, the stocks, the watch- 
house, the fire-house, and the cage; — the City Hall, 
the mayors, the Judges, the conventions, the Con- 
gress, and the great President, who, at various 
times, were the conspicuous and impressive objects 
of attention. . 

Looking up and down Wall Street, we see noth- 
ing that tells of those former days, excepting 
always the commanding statue of the President, 
who, even in the lifeless metal form before us, 
speaks to us and compels us to think of the great 
past and of the duties of the present. 

The relics of primitive living are all gone. The 
fence, through which the paid herdsmen drove the 
cattle of the colonists to the fields and hills about 
the present City Hall Park, and through which they 
brought them home at night; the stout palisades 
and the wall that were built as a defense against 
New Englanders and Indians; the cottages of the 
venturesome pioneers who first dared to live out- 
side the wall; the gardens of Colonel De Peyster 
and his sugar- house; the handsome colonial resi- 
dences that next came; the taverns and the shops 
that supplied the varied needs of the growing pop- 
ulation before the street became the nation's center 
of finance ; — they have all departed, and everything 
about us is eloquent of wealth, boundless enter- 
prise, restless activity and world-impressing business. 
Every lot in this part of the city is worth a 
fortune, and is put to its best possible use. There 
379 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

is no place here for gardens as there was once 
upon a time. 

Here along the north side of AVall Street, on 
both sides of Nassau and running down to Wil- 
liam (then called Smith Street), was the De Pejs- 
ter garden, bought by Colonel De Peyster and 
Colonel Bayard from Governor Dongq,n, Colonel 
De Peyster's grand house was about where Pearl and 
Pine Streets now intersect, the grounds extending on 
either side and running down to the river, — and 
there was a small building standing in the jog 
which is yet apparent on the west side of Nassau 
Street. The whole of this Wall Street front was 
divided into lots bj' the Bayards and De Peysters 
about the year 1718, and they were sold to vari- 
ous persons. The Bayards had a great sugar-house 
in 1728 in the neighborhood of 40 and 42 Wall 
Street, and in 1718 the ground on the north side 
of Wall Street, fifty feet west of Nassau, was sold 
to the First Presbyterian Church for three hundred 
and fifty poimds sterling. In this church Jonathan 
Edwards preached, and opposed his hard, gloomy 
theologj' to the brighter evangel of free grace in 
WiUiam and John Street-i. The Presbyterian Church 
at Fifth Avenue and 12th Street is the same cor- 
poration that met on this Wall Street site. The 
three lots oast of the assay office were sold in 1773 
to Samuel Vorplanck for two hundred and sixty 
pounds. The City Hall site was donated by De 
Peyster for the purpose of enticing the removal of 
the seat of government from Pearl Street. Governor 
380 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

Tryon lived for a short time at the northeast corner 
of Wall and William Streets, the site of Hamilton's 
Bank. At the close of the Revolutionary War many 
notable people lived on Wall Street, and it was a 
gay promenade for ladies and gentlemen on pleasant 
afternoons. Alexander Hamilton lived in the build- 




First Presbyterian Church. 

ing afterward occupied by the Mechanics' Bank, in 
sight of the graveyard where his remains rest. The 
Livingstons, the Bleeckers, Nicholas Law, Mr. and 
Mrs. Jay, General Knox, Robert Troup, Daniel C. 
Verplanck, and Sir John Temple, were among the 
prominent residents. 

It was Sir John Temple's house that came near 
being wrecked by a mob at the time of the ''doc- 
381 



THE AM ERIC AX METROPOLIS 



tor's riot," because they thought his name-plate 
proclaimed him to be Surgeon Temple. 

As late as 1804, the whole post-office business 
of the City was conducted in General Bailey's pri- 
vate house at 29 William Street, close to Wall 
Street, the office proper being twelve feet wide and 
fifteen feet deep. That place was abandoned and 

a new post-office was 
established in the same 
neighborhood in 1825, 
in a little schoolhouse on 
Exchange Place, east of 
Broad Street. Eight 
clerks were there em- 
ployed. Quite a num- 
ber of years later, Mr. 
Adams, who lived on 
AVall Street, started the 
business that grew into 
the Adams Express Com- 
pany, by carrying par- 
cels with his own hands. 
Now banks, trust com- 
First post-omce, a9 William Street. pauies, and insui'ance 
companies, and other concerns, whose business covers 
the nation, are crowded in and around the street. Men 
1^0 to the Street in the morning with bright expecta- 
tions, and go out of it at night haggard and broken. 
Some make fortunes, some lose everything; and 
many wreck their bodies, minds and souls. It re- 
quires a strong and cool man to keep his head 
382 




NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

to the current iu this place. At the top of this 
street of coucentrated wealth and activity, Trin- 
ity's stone sentinel stands, and the bells call the 
thoughtless to think, all through the hours of the 
day. In the churchyard are uncounted thousands, 
who wove their lives into the fabric of the common- 




second Post-Ottice. Oardeii Street (Exchange Place). 

wealth, and many of them were influential and 
noble. Some there are who betimes look away from 
their absorbing affairs, and heed the impressive les- 
son of mortality and immortality. 

In 1709, down at the other end of the street (in 
the neighborhood of Pearl Street), was established 
a slave market, and its dismal trade was continued 
383 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

many years. There is still irksome, killing human 
slavery on the street. 

These samples of advertisements will give a little 
idea of the African slavery of old New York. 

"Ran away last Tuesday night two negro men, 
both branded R. N. on their shoulders; one remark- 
ably scarrified over the forehead, cloth'd with a pair 
of trousers only, the other with a coat and pair of 
trousers. Whoever brings the said negroes to Jasen 
Vaughan in New York shall have thirty shillings 
reward and all reasonable charges paid." — New York 
"Gazette," 1730. 

"To be sold at Benjamin D'harriettes' House 
one negro man named Scipio, a Cooper, about 2'Z 
years old, and one ditto named Yustee, a House 
Carpenter, a Plowman and fit for country work, 
about 26 years old: and very good pitch to be sold 
and Rozin at 10 S. per hundred by the barrel." 

"To be sold on reasonable terms a likely negro 
girl about 18 years of age and a likely negro boy 
about sixteen years, both born in this city. They 
can speak good English and Dutch, and are bred 
up to all sorts of house work. And a new negro 
man. Enquire at the Post- Office." 

"A likely negro boy about ten years old and 
has been about a month imported, to be sold. En- 
quire of the Printer hereof." 

"A very likely negro girl to be sold. Brought 
up here in town, speaks very good English, age 
about ten years, has had the small pox and measles 
and begins to handle her needle. Enquire of the 
Printer hereof."— New York "Gazette," May, 1733. 

"To be sold Two likely negro men and a likely 
handy negro woman, they are fit for either town 
384 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

or country business. Enquire of the widow of Capt. 
Bisset at the corner of New Street and Valeten- 
berg (Exchange Place) in New York." — New York 
""Weekly Journal," August, 173J-. 

"To be Sold Two likely negro women, one about 
18 and the other about 25 years of age, both fit for 
any house service and good slaves. Enquire of the 
Printer hereof." — New York "Weekly Journal," 
August, 1734. 

"A likely Negro Woman about twenty-two years 
old has had the Small pox and can do all sorts of 
household and Country work, viz. : Bake Bread, 
Cook, Wash, Spin, Work in the Field, and is a 
very good Dairy woman. Enquire of the Printer 
hereof."— New York "Gazette," December, 1734. 

"To be sold a very likely Negro Woman about 
30 years of Age, has been in the City about 10. 
She is a fine Cook, has been brought up to all sorts 
of House-work and speaks very good English. She 
has had the Small pox and has now a young child. 
Enquire further concerning her, and the Conditions 
of sale, of Mary Kippin or the Printer hereof." — 
"Weekly Journal," May, 1735. 

In later years the Slave Market became the 
"Meal Market." 

This interesting advertisement appeared in the 

"Post Boy," May 7, 1744: 

"Joseph Leddell, Pewterer, who for many years 
has lived at the sign of the Platter in Dock Street 
opposite to Wm. Franks, is now removed to the 
lower end of Wall Street near the Meal Market, 
in the House where Mr. Joseph Sackett lately lived, 
and has the same Sign; where his former customers 
or any others may be supplied with most sorts of 
Q-i 385 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

Pewter ware, Wholesale or Retail, at reasonable 
rates, and gives ready money for old Pewter and 
Brass," [There was great reverence in those days 
for old signs.] 

It was a different institution from the Slave 
Market which was organized under the shadow of 
the old Trinity Church in 1719 — the first Presbyterian 
Church, 

Here is an advertisement which appeared in the 
"Post Boy" of September 2, 1745, announcing the 
preaching in that church of George Whitefield, who 
had come on an evangelical tour, 

"Tuesday last the Rev. Mr. Whitefield arrived 
here from Long Island, and the next Evening began 
to preach in the Presbyterian Meeting-house, where 
he has preach'd twice every day since and j'ester- 
day three times to crowded audiences: We hear be 
intends to take his leave of us this Night or To- 
morro w Morn ing . ' ' 

The Tontine Coffee House, at which the impor- 
tant business and governmental life of the City cen- 
tered in olden days, was built at the corner of 
Water Street in 1794. 

At the corner of William Street stands the first 
bank — the Bank of New York— which has occupied 
that site since 1791, It was the creation of Alex- 
ander Hamilton. 

Aaron Burr could not remain far behind Ham- 
ilton. Ho knew that he could not get a direct 
bank charter, so he took a charter for a water 
company to be called the Manhattan Compan}', 
386 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

and inasmuch as the water business was consid- 
ered risky, he obtained permission for it to do 
such other business as it might desire to do. A 
well was sunk, and hollow wooden logs were laid 
in various streets, and are even now occasionally- 
dug up. The company still keeps its charter by 
maintaining a great tank at 25 Center Street, which 
it keeps full by pumping, the overflow running into 
the sewer. The bank which the water works 
screened was opened at 23 Wall Street in 1793, and 
has ever since continued to do a heavy business; 
but nobody wants the water. This is not the only 
instance in New York where the stock of a finan- 
cial institution is floated by water. If the well in 
Center Street should dry up, the Manhattan officers 
would have to hustle for a new fountain. At the 
time of the founding of the Manhattan Bank, there 
was an exclusiveness about financial matters that 
exalted bank officials, kept banking privileges within 
certain mercantile lines, and shut out the general 
pubHc. The new bank broke down this business 
aristocracy, by making loans and discounts to me- 
chanics and tradesmen, and all other classes who 
desired money and could give security. This was 
a great help to the business of the City. In 1810, 
there were these other banks : the United States 
Bank at 38 Wall, the Merchants' Bank at 25 Wall, 
and the Mechanics' Bank at 16 Wall (in which lat- 
ter building flamilton lived). 

Massive buildings have appeared more slowly in 
this street than in some other localities, but there 
387 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

is an appearance of substantiality about them that is 
not equaled anywhere else. The buildings from the 
Assay Office to William Street are unmatched in 
their solidity, and the Custom-house front, -svith its 
majestic solid pillars, each weighing thirty-three tons, 
is a pattern of simple dignity and strength. 

Many have been the exciting and soul-stirring 
events in this street. The great fires have been men- 
tioned. The financial panics centered here. Here 
were held the great "war meetings," and all parties 
have claimed the use of the Treasiu-}- steps for 
politic^al meetings. 

In 1834 the "Courier and Enquirer" office, at 
Number 58 Wall Street, was the objective point of 
the tender interest of an ugly mob. In that year 
the mayor was first elected by a popular vote. The 
antagonism between the Federals, and the Repub- 
licans or Democrats, as they began to be called, 
was very bitter, and was intensified bj' President 
Jackson's war on the United States Bank. The 
Democrats had begun to attract the foreign element, 
and were very energetic in expressing their hatred 
for tlie Whigs (the title adopted by their leader, 
Colonel Webb, editor of the "Courier and Enquirer," 
in 18.'!2). In this election of 1834, the Democrats 
were disorganized by a spht in Tammany Hall. The 
Democratic candidate for mayor was Cornelius W. 
Lawrence, and the VMiig candidate was Gulian C. 
Verplanck. Colonel Webb incensed the Democrats 
by applj-ing the title of "Tories" to them in his 
newspaper. As the day of election approached man}- 
388 



NEW YORK CITY IJFE 

affrays occurred. The Wiiigs rigged up a ship 
named "Constitution," and wheeled it through the 
streets. The Democrats matched it with a ship that 
they christened "Veto," which followed the "Con- 
stitution" on her voyage, and particularly up and 
down Wall Street. In the Sixth Ward the Demo- 
crats invaded the Whig committee room, killed a 
man, wounded others, and destroyed the ballots. 
Four thousand Whigs gathered that night to take 
measures to protect themselves. Colonel Webb took 
three hundred volunteers to the City Hall, had them 
sworn in as special constables, and posted them at 
the polling places in the Sixth Ward, where they 
announced to the lawless crowds their determination 
to see that a fair ballot was cast by every man 
who desired to cast one. This action prevented the 
rioters from running the election their own way, 
and they became terribly incensed against Webb 
and the "Courier." That night, thousands of the 
turbulent Sixth Warders gathered in the City Hall 
Park. 'They vowed vengeance on the pubhc officers, 
and especially on Webb. A large wooden cross was 
displayed with the words on it, "Down with the 
'Courier and Enquirer' Building!" The rioters 
marched by it, and each touched it, thereby regis- 
tering his oath. The officials in the City Hall be- 
came alarmed, and they sent a committee to warn 
Colonel Webb to close up his building. The brave 
colonel had no idea of doing any such thing. He 
gathered thirty or forty men about him, placed 
bundles of paper on his windows for breastworks, 
389 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

and gathered seveiit}* muskets, a hundred pis 
tols, with plenty of ammunition, and five loads of 
paving stones (on the roof), warranted to crack 
the thickest skull. Colonel Webb's printers went 
on with their work as usual. When the mob 
reached Pine Street the leaders fell back to the 
rear, though they kept their faces to the front. The 
new leading rank did like\Wse, and the next and 
the next followed. The result was that, while the 
crowd marched toward Wall Street all the time, it 
continually slid back at Pine Street. Then they 
made a rush for Wall Street ; but they cooled down 
before the}' reached Webb's building, and seemed 
disinclined to test the defenses. They gathered in 
force before the building, and hammered on its front 
with their clubs. Then Webb pushed a musket 
through a window and shouted that he would shoot 
any one whom it covered, and that mob just melted 
away. Next day the Mayor was knocked down in 
the street by roughs, and the arsenal had to be 
guarded by militia to save its stores from the mob. 
The election proceeded under the most exciting con- 
ditions. Ten thousand Whigs gathered on Wall 
Street to watch the returns displayed b}' the "Cou- 
rier."' The Democrats elected the Mayor by a small 
majority, and the Whigs carried the Common Coun- 
cil. The Whigs claimed this as a victory, and held 
a thanksgiving demonstration at Castle Garden, at 
which Daniel AVebster made the leading speech. 

It was a different sort of a gathering which met 
in front of the Treasury after the murder of 
390 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

President Lincolu in April, 1865, just seventy-six 
years after the inauguration of Washington. The 
gathering in 1789 was transported -s^ith joy at the 
successful inauguration of the new government. This 
meeting was wild ^^^th grief and anxiet}- over the 
assassination of the President who had carried the 
nation through the Rebelhon. In the minds of many 
that were there, the killing of Lincoln seemed to be 
the reneAving of the conflict which they hoped had 
subsided. Those who were close in Lincoln's coun- 
sels had been struck down, too; and no one knew 
the extent of the movement or the scope of the 
conspiracy which seemed to have begun to work in 
the dark to overturn the results of the war. The 
whole City was in commotion, but the people did 
not shout: with white faces and palhd hps they 
conversed in whispers. While the great meeting was 
in this condition of suppressed excitement, and every 
heart was quivering with the tension, two rash men 
spoke then- satisfaction at the assassin's deed. One 
of them was struck dead by an avenging hand so 
suddenly and so fiercely that the unfinished words 
trembled upon his lips as he fell; the other was 
trampled under many feet. This sudden tragedy 
broke the spell, and the whole mass of people be- 
gan to shout and gesticulate, their pent-up feelings 
rushing into expression. The "World" had been dis- 
tinguished for the comfort which it gave to the 
Southern cause, and its comments upon the assas- 
sination had made it an object of the resentment of 
all who loved the Union. A man appeared with an 
391 



THE AMERICAN METEOPOLIS 

imitation of a gallows, having a noose dangling 
from it, and excitedly called for volunteers to fol- 
low him to the "World" office. In a moment the 
great crowd, finding something to attack, swayed in 
a might}'- movement to follow the man and the 
dangling noose. Just then there arose on the plat- 
form a man of commanding presence, who, of all 
the company, alone seemed to have caught the in- 
spiration of the situation and the ability to com- 
mand it. Little did he know then, that he himself 
would be the nation's executive, and that he too 
would be laid low by an assassin's hand. Then he 
was unknoAvn, except to his neighbors and compan- 
ions in arms. He held a flag in his hand. The 
noble tones of his voice rolled out over the dis- 
quieted throng, and these were his words: "Fellow 
citizens: Clouds and darkness are round about Him I 
His pavilion is dark waters and thick clouds of the 
skies! Justice and judgment are the establishment 
of His throne! Mercy and truth shall go before 
His face! Fellow citizens: God reigns and the gov- 
ernment at Washington still lives!" The words fell 
upon that multitude like a heavy cooling rain. Wild 
passions went out. Reason and judgment returned. 
The men who had gathered were not there with 
lawless purposes, and they reahzed that, while 
punishment was deserved by those against whom 
they had been stirred, they had sober and seri- 
ous business to do Those few ringing, inspired 
words of him, over whom was an unseen martyr's 
halo, reminded them of other dark days, when God's 
3W 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

Mercy had overruled great disasters. The practical 
support which went out from this and from other 
patriotic gatherings all over the nation was a quick 
assurance to traitors, as well as to those who took 
up the administration of government, that the na- 
tion, which had been sustained through wasting war, 
would not be allowed to perish. 

(In May, President Johnson issued a proclamation 
to the effect that the government had evidence that 
Jefferson Davis, Jacob Thompson, and other promi- 
nent rebels, had formed a plot to assassinate Lin- 
coln and Seward, and offered a large reward for 
their arrest.) 

(From the London '-Punch.") 

ABRAHAM LINCOLN. 

FOULLY ASSASSINATED, APRIL 14, 1865. 

You lay a wreath on murdered Lincoln's bier, 
You, who with mocking f)encil wont to trace, 

Broad for the self-complacent British sneer. 
His length of shambling limb, his furrowed face. 

His gaunt, gnarled hands, bis unkempt, bristling 
hair, 

His garb uncouth, his bearing ill at ease. 
His lack of all we prize as debonair. 

Of power or will to shine, of art to please. 

You, whose smart pen backed up the pencil's 
laugh, 
Judging each step, as though the way were 
plain ; 
Reckless, so it could point its paragraph, 
Of chief's perplexity, or people's pain. 
393 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

Beside this corpse, that bears for windiug-sheet 
The Stars and Stripes he lived to rear anew, 

Between the mourners at his head and feet. 
Say, scLirril jester, is there room for you? 

Yes, he had lived to shame me from my sneer, 
To lame my pencil, and confute my pen — 

To make me own this hind, of princes peer. 
This rail-splitter a true-born king of men. 

My shallow judgment I had learned to rue, 
Noting how to occasion's height he rose, 

How his quaint wit made home-truth seem more 
true, 
How, iron-like, his temper grew by blows. 

How humble, yet how hopeful he could be: 
How in good fortune and in ill the same : 

Nor bitter in success, nor boastful he, 
Thirsty for gold, nor feverish for fame. 

He went about his work — such work as few 
Ever had laid on head and heart, and hand — 

As one who knows, where there's a task to do, 
Man's honest will must Heaven's good grace 
command ; 

Who trusts the strength will with the burden 
grow, 

That God makes instruments to work His will. 
If but that will we can arrive to know. 

Nor tamper with the weights of good and ill. 

So he went forth to battle, on the side 

That he felt clear was Liberty's and Right's, 
As in his peasant boyhood he had plied 

His warfare with rude Nature's thwarting 
mights : 

394 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

The uncleared forest, the unbroken soil, 

The iron bark that turns the lumberer's axe, 

The rapid, that o'erbears the boatman's toil, 
The prairie, hiding the 'mazed wanderer's 
tracks, 

The ambushed Indian, and the prowling bear — 
Such were the needs that helped his youth to 
train : 
Rough culture — but such trees large fruit may- 
bear. 
If but their stocks be of right girth and grain. 

So he grew up, a destined work to do. 

And lived to do it : four long-suflPering years' 

111- fate, ill-feeling, ill-report, lived through, 
And then he heard the hisses change to 
cheers, 

The taunts to tribute, the abuse to praise, 

And took both with the same unwavering 
mood : 
Till, as he came on light, from darkling days. 
And seemed to touch the goal from where he 
stood, 

A felon hand, between the goal and him. 
Reached from behind his back, a trigger 
prest — 
And those perplexed and patient eyes were dim. 
Those gaunt, long-laboring • limbs were laid 
to rest ! 

The words of mercy were upon his lips, 

Forgiveness in his heart and on his pen. 
When this vile murderer brought swift eclipse 
To thoughts of peace on earth, good-will to 
men. 

395 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

The Old World and the New, from sea to sea, 
Utter one voice of sympathy and shame ! 

Sore heart, so stopped when it at last beat 
high; 
Sad life, cut short just as its triumph came. 

A deed accurst ! Strokes have been struck 
before 
By the assassin's hand, whereof men doubt 
If more of horror or disgrace they bore ; 

But thy foul crime, like Cain's, stands darkly 
out. 

Vile hand, that brandest murder on a strife, 
Whate'er its grounds, stoutly and nobly 
striven ; 

And with the martyr's crown crownest a life 
With much to praise, little to be forgiven ! 

Among the pleasantest recollection of the Wall 
and Broad Street neighborhood is its association with 
the evacuation of New York by the British army, 
the departure of the last emblem of tyranny- and 
monarchy, and the touching farewell of General 
Washington to the devoted officers who had shared 
with him the sufferings of the war and the joys 
of its victories. When the British army left New 
York, the lusty infant City threw off her swad- 
dling clothes, never more to be restrained in her 
growth. It was the beginning of her greatness. Al- 
though the battle of Yorktown decided the Revolu- 
tion, and it was well understood by both sides that 
it had ended in the independence of the colonies, 
six months of uncertainty passed before the English 
troops were withdrawn from the Southern cities. 
396 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

The City of New York was England's stronghold 
during the entire conflict, because, owing to its situ- 
ation between the rivers, it could not be held by 
the Americans against her ships of war. The Brit- 
ish forces, being withdrawn from other points, con- 
centrated in New York, and continued to occupy 
the public buildings and the many residences which 
had been evacuated by conspicuous patriots. 

In 1783 negotiations for final peace and the in- 
dependence of the colonies came to a successful 
issue. On the 10th of November, 1783, there re- 
mained in the City six thousand English soldiers 
belonging to the royal artillery, the hght infantry, 
the grenadiers, the dragoons, and various foot regi- 
ments, and several German regiments. A large En- 
ghsh fleet assembled to carry these troops away. 
Besides the soldiers there were a great many "loyal- 
ists," who feared to remain in America after the 
defeat of the English. They were not all citizens 
of New York, for many had come from other parts 
of the country, because the City remained to the last 
under English control. It was quite an army that 
made its arrangements to leave New York, and it 
took a long time and much good management to 
complete the arrangements for the evacuation. These 
necessary delays annoyed and incensed the people, 
who were anxious to enjoy the fruits of victory, 
and made them exceedingly impatient to see the 
back of the last redcoats. On the 19th of Novem- 
ber, General Washington, who had been disbanding 
the army at Newburg, arrived at Day's Tavern 
397 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

(125th Street and Eighth Ave.), and a small brigade 
of American veterans, which he had selected to oc- 
cupy the City, camped at McGowan's Pass, in the 
neighborhood of the ancient building now known as 
the McGowan's Pass Tavern, in the upper part of 
Central Park, near Fifth Avenue. Major - general 
Knox, Avho had narrowly escaped capture when the 
American troops evacuated New York in 1776 after 
the battle of Long Island, was chief in command, 
and many of the soldiers and officers had taken 
part in that rapid retreat. One of the officers was 
Major Job Sumner, grandfather of the late Senator 
Sumner, and whose bodj' is now laying in St. Paul's 
churchyard. These soldiers had not seen New York 
since the day they were driven out of the City on 
the double quick. They started from McGowan's 
Pass for home early in the morning of November 
25th, and it was a great day for them. It was ar- 
ranged that the Enghsh should occupy the old Fort 
at Bowling Green until noon, and the American sol- 
diers marched down the Old Post Road (the last 
remnant of which is Sylvan Place, west of Third 
Avenvie, between 120th and 121st Streets) into the 
Bowery, where they waited for the hour of occu- 
pation. At one o'clock instead of twelve, the}' re- 
ceived word from the British commander that his 
troops had l^een withdrawn from the Fort. The 
drums rattled^ the soldiers sprang into hne again, 
and with happy hearts stepped out to perform their 
last duty of the war. There was a fierce little bat- 
tle on Murray Street near Greenwich which delayed 
398 



NEAV YORK CITY LIFE 

the evacuation. Major Cunningham, the provost- 
marshal of the City under British rule, and the 
infamous commander of the prison in the Commons 
(the Register's Office in the City Hall Park), while 
on his way downtown to join the departing forces, 
full of venomous disappointment, saw an American 
flag flying from a pole in front of Mrs. Day's 
home. Her house was not on his line of march, 
but he saw the hated flag from Broadway, and 
went down Murray Street in his characteristic man- 
ner, seized the rope, and with much profanity be- 
gan to haul the flag down, intending, no doubt, to 
carry it away as a souvenir of his prowess, and to 
tell big stories about it. He did not get the flag, 
but he got a souvenir; for Mrs. Day rushed out of 
the house with a broomstick, a weapon which women 
know how to wield, and in a moment Major Cun- 
ningham's head gave forth great clouds of powder, 
which she batted out of his wig. The doughty sol- 
dier turned to grapple with his powerful enemy, 
and she let him have the broomstick across his nose 
so fiercely that her energy was transformed into a 
torrent of gore that made Cunningham's front as 
red as his back. Fear of being left behind, and 
fear of further broomstick evolutions, sent the officer 
scurrying toward the Battery, and left the flag fly- 
ing and Mrs. Day the victor in the last battle of 
the Revolution. 

The American troops did n(jt march down Broad 
way, for in those days Queen Street (now Pearl) 
was the select street and the route for processions. 
399 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

They marched down this old street, to which we 
have previousl}' paid our respects, through thousands 
of rejoicing people, many of whom had come back 
to their homes with the soldiers. They turned up 
Wall Street and marched into Broadway, passing 
the spot which was destined in a few years to re- 
ceive their commanding general as the President of 
the nation. 

All along the hue of march the soldiers with 
grief and indignation saw the marks of British van- 
dalism, and as they moved up Broad Street and 
into Broadwaj', they beheld the desolation of the 
great fire which burned so fiercely on the night of 
their evacuation in 1776. Trinity Church, at the 
head of Wall Sti-eet, was still in ruins. On Broad- 
way the little army halted, and two companies were 
sent to occupy the Fort. This pleasant duty was 
speedily performed, and soon the hearts of the peo- 
ple bounded as they heard the guns salute the flag. 

General Knox rode back to the Bull's Head Tav- 
ern, where General Washington and Governor Clinton 
were waiting. A citizens' procession was then formed, 
in which all of the prominent civil officers were in- 
cluded. They followed the same line of march and 
joined the soldiers on Broadway. That afternoon 
Governor Chnton gave a public dinner at Fraunces' 
Tavern, at the corner of Broad Street and Pearl. 
This old building, which was formerly the home of 
Steven Delancey, one of the greatest of the Colonial 
figures, is still standing. At this dinner thirteen 
toasts were responded to, one for each State. 
400 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

The following are the orders that were issued to 
the light infantry, forming a part of the army of 
occupation, on November 24th: 

"McGovvan's Pass, 24th Nov., '83. 
"-B. G. Jackson's Orders: 

*'The troops will cook one day's provisions this even- 
ing, and be in perfect readiness to march to-morrow 
morning at 8 o'clock. 

'After Orders, Nov. 24.: 

"Field-officer of the day to-morrow — Col. Vose. 

"The light infantry will furnish a company for main 
guard to-morrow. As soon as the Troops are form'd 
in the City, the main guard will be march'd off to Fort 
George — on their taking possession an officer of Artillery 
will immediately hoist the American standard. The 
officer will then detach two Pattrols, consisting of one 
Sub., one Sergt., two Corporals, and fifteen Privates 
each — one to pass from the North to the East River as 
far up as Maiden Lain, the other from North to East 
River from Maiden Lain iipward. 

' ' On the Standard being hoisted in Fort George, the 
Artillery will fire thirteen rounds. After his Excellency 
Governor Clinton will be received on the right of the 
line. Then officers w^ill salute his Excellency as he 
passes them, and the Troops present their arms by Corps, 
and the Drums beat a march. After his Excellency is 
passed the hne and allited at Cape's Tavern (corner of 
Rector Street and Broadway), the Artillery will fire 
Thirteen rounds. 

"In case of any disturbance the whole of the Pattroles 
401 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

will instantly march out, preserv^e the peace, and appre- 
hend and secure all offenders. For the greater security 
and good Order of the City each Battalion will mount 
a Piquett at their Barracks, consisting of one entire Com- 
pan3\ They will lay on their arms and be in constant 
readiness during the Twenty-four hours, to parade on 
the first alarm and wait the orders of the Officer of the 
Day. 

' ' On an alarm of fire all the officers and men on duty 
will immediatel)^ repair to their Barracks and parade 
without Arms, and wait the Orders of the Commanding 
Officers. The officer commanding pattroles will march 
them in the most regular and silent order, both day and 
night, and will take up and confine in the main guard 
any violent and disorderly soldiers they may meet with. 
The Grand Parade will be near the bridewell (in the 
City Hall Park), the guards and pattroles will march 
off the Grand Parade under the direction of the field- 
officer of the day." 

There was rejoicing and celebrating for many 
days. On December 11th the troops assembled at 
St. George's Chapel in Beekman Street, and hst- 
ened to a sermon by their chaplain. Dr. Rogers. 

Rivington's "Gazette" of November 26, 1783 
(the day after the evacuation), gave the news of 
the memorable occasion; and in order that we may 
make a comparison between the newspaper methods 
of that day and of our own time, we will give the 
entire account from that paper. It was published 
witliout any editorial comment : 
403 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

''Xeiv York, November 26. — Yesterday in the Morn- 
ing the American Troops marched from Haerlem, to the 
Bowery- Lane. They remained there until about One 
o'clock, when the British Troops left the Posts in the 
Bowery, and the American Troops marched into, and 
took Possession of the City, in the following Order, viz. 

1. A Corps of Dragoons. 

2. Advanced Guard of Light Infantry. 

3. A Corps of Artillery. 

4. Battalion of Light Infantrj'. 

5. Battalion of Massachusetts Troops. 

6. Rear Guard. 

After the troops had taken Possession of the City, the 
General (Washington) and Governor (George CHnton) 
made their Public Entry in the follo^Adng Manner : 

1. Their Excellencies the General and Governor, with 
their Suites, on Horseback. 

2. The Lieutenant-Governor, and the Members of the 
Council, for the Temporary Government of the Southern 
District, four a-breast. 

3. Major-General Knox, and the Officers of the Army, 
eight a-breast. 

4. Citizens on Horseback, eight a-breast. 

5. The Speaker of the Assembly, and Citizens, on 
Foot, eight a-breast. 

Their Excellencies the Governor and Commander in 
Chief were escorted by a Body of West-Chester Light 
Horse, under the command of Captain Delavan. 

The procession proceeded down Queen- Street (now 
Pearl) and through the Broadway, to Cape's Tavern. 

The Governor gave a public Dinner at Fraunces' Tav- 
ern ; at which the Commander m Chief and other Gen- 
eral Officers were present. 

403 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

After Dinner, the following Toasts were drank by the 
Company : 

1. The United States of America. 

2. His most Christian Majesty. 

3. The United Netherlands. 

4. The King of Sweden. 

5. The American Army. 

G. The Fleet and Armies of France, which have served 
in America. 

7. The Memory of those Heroes who have fallen for 
our Freedom, 

8. May our Country be grateful to her military chil- 
dren. 

0. May Justice support what Courage has gained. 

10. The Vindicators of the Rights of Mankind in 
every Quarter of the Globe. 

11. May America be an Asylum to the persecuted of 
the Earth. 

12. May a close Union of the States guard the Tem- 
ple they have erected to Liberty. 

13. May the Remembrance of This Day be a Lesson 
to Princes. 

The arrangement and whole conduct of this March, 
with the tranquillity which succeeded it, through the day 
and night, was admirable; and the grateful citizens will 
ever feel the most affectionate impressions, from the ele- 
gant and efficient disposition which prevailed througi: 
the whole event." 

This closing remark marked the great condescen- 
sion of the tory printer. 

What a pity that there was no "Journal," no 
"World," no "Herald," no "Tribune," no "Sun" 
— no valiant modern journal, to give us an artistic 
account of this great event! 
404 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

We would not care if the truth were sHghtly 
stretched or strained, could we but experience the 
thrill of the new-Journalism, the pictorial enjoyment 
of the enterprising-Journalism, the soporific pleasure 
of the steady-old- Journalism, or the "bite" of the 
vitriol-Journalism, in the apphcation of their peculiar 
genius to the recounting, the illustrating, the embel- 
lishing, and the editorializing of the events of this 
monumental occasion. 

[EuaGuatior> Day Dir>r>er, 1896. 

Eaten with great pains by the New York Daughters 
of the Revolution, who valiantly sustained the honors of 
the day, amid yellow chrysanthemums, maidenhair ferns, 
smilax, flags and ancient flintlocks. 

Oysters a la Washing-ton. 

Pickles. Celerj-. Olives. 

Chicken Pie a la Putnam. 

Yorkshire Pig, Ethan Allen Style. 

Mashed Potatoes. Green Peas. 

Punch a la Oliver H. Perry. 

Canada Turkey, Stuffed a la Saratoga. 

Lettuce Salad. 

(No "a la" this tmie.) 

Pumpkin Pie a la Molly Stark. 

Mince Pie a la Martha Washington. 

(Oysters and Pie!) 

Ice Cream a la Lafayette. 

Assorted Cakes. Fioiit. 

Coffee a la Valley Forge. 

Congress will be duly petitioned to issue gold service 
medals to commemorate the heroic event.] 
405 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

Chaplain Rogers was a Presbyterian. The Pres- 
byterian churches, which were on Wall Street and 
the present site of the "Times" building, had been 
so badly used hj the Enghsh soldiers that they were 
not fit to be occupied, and the kindly spirit of the 
Episcopalians showed itself in quick and generous in- 
vitations to the chaplain and the soldiers to occupy 
St. Paul's and St. George's chapels until their own 
churches could be renovated. 

Washington said farewell to his officers on De- 
cember 4th, at Fraunces' Tavern (now 170 years old). 
Colonel Benjamin Tallmadge wrote of this occasion. 
"When his Excellency entered the room his emo- 
tion, too strong to be concealed, seemed to be re- 
ciprocated by every officer present. After partaking 
of a slight refreshment in almost breathless silence, 
the General filled his glass with wine, and turning 
to the officers, said: 'With a heart full of love and 
gratitude I now take leave of you. 1 most de- 
voutly wish that your latter days may be as pros- 
perous and happy as your former ones have been 
glorious and honorable.' After the officers had taken 
a glass of wine, the General added : * I cannot come 
to each of you, but shall feel obliged if each of 
you will come and take me by the hand.' Gen- 
eral Knox, being nearest to him, turned to the 
Commander-in-Chief, who, suffused in tears, was in- 
capable of utterance, but grasped his hand, when 
they embraced each other in silence. In the same 
affectionate manner every officer in the room marched 
up to, kissed, and parted \vith his General in- Chief. 
406 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

Such a scene of sorrow and weeping I had never 
before witnessed, and hope I may never be called 
upon to witness again. Not a word was uttered to 
break the silence that prevailed, or to interrupt the 
tenderness of the interesting scene. The simple 
thought that we were about to part from the man 
who had conducted us through a long and bloody 
war, and under whose conduct the glory and inde- 
pendence of our country had been achieved, and 
that we should see his face no more in this world, 
seemed to me utterly insupportable. But the time 
of separation had come, and waving his hand to his 
grieving children around him, he left the room, and 
passing through a corps of light infantry who were 
paraded to receive him, he walked silently on to 
AVhitehall, where a barge was in waiting. [Staten 
Island Ferry.] We all followed in mournful silence 
to the wharf, where a prodigious crowd had assem- 
bled to witness the departure of the man, who, un- 
der God, had been the great agent in establishing 
the glory and independence of these United States. 
As soon as he was seated, the barge put off into 
the river, and when out in the stream, our great 
and beloved General waved his hat, and bade us 
a silent adieu." 

The English ships did not sail from the harbor 
until the 5th of December. 

At the old tavern, consecrated by Washington's 

presence and voice, the Chamber of Commerce, 

which has ever been associated with the progress 

of New York, had its origin, and many important 

407 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

gatherings were held there in the days succeeding 
the Revolution. It is sought out and visited more 
than any other of the relics of the former days, 
but its appearance is very disappointing. The build- 
ing has been altered and modernized so as to adapt 
it to the purposes of a very commonplace restaurant 
and beer saloon, the proprietor of which is so lack- 
ing in appreciation of his possession that he does 
not, even for a commercial purpose, bring out and 
exhibit the points which would attract the many to 
whom the associations of the place are deeply inter- 
esting. If you are not interested in the saloon you 
may pass to the restaurant upstairs and behold the 
incongruous relation of framed copies of old resolu- 
tions of the Board of Trade, and photographs of 
German family picnics. Twenty-five cents is the 
price of dinner, and the people who serve it would 
stare at you in amazement, if you asked them 
about Washington's farewell to his generals. 

Samuel Praunces, whose name survives in the 
accepted title of the dwelling, was a famous pro- 
vider and an ardent patriot. He became weU and 
favorably known as the landlord of the Masons* 
Arms. He sold that place in 1762, and purchased 
his more famous tavern from Oliver Delancey for 
two thousand pounds. He became a devoted ad- 
mirer of General Washington, and his daughter en- 
tered Washington's service, and was his housekeeper 
while his headquarters were at the Richmond Hill 
Mansion, which afterward became the home of 
Aaron Burr (corner of Varick and Charlton Streets). 
408 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

When the Eughsh Avarship the "Asia" fired upon 
the City, she drove a round shot through the roof 
of the tavern. Some of the most famous men of 
the City frequented "Fraunces'," and met socially 
there, even in its earliest days. Among them 
were John Jay, who was Member of Congress, 
]\rinister to Spain, Chief -justice, Minister to Eug 
land, and Governor of New York; Gouverneur 
Morris, who was Member of Congress and Minister 
to France; Robert R. Livingston, who was Minister 
to France and Chancellor of New York; Morgan 
Lewis, who was Governor of New York and a 
general in the American army; and others, such 
as Egbert Benson, Gulian Verplanck, John and 
Henry Livingston, Francis Lewis, John Watts, 
Leonard Lispenard, Richard Harrison, Daniel Lud 
low— who were in the front of public affairs dur- 
ing their day. While Washington was at Richmond 
Hill, the plot hatched by Governor Tryon for his 
murder was under way. Mayor Matthews was sup- 
posed to be a prominent member in the conspiracy, 
but he stoutly denied any knowledge of it. The 
plot included a number of tavern-keepers, who were 
expected to tamper with the soldiers and to find the 
instruments for. performing the dastardly work that 
was in contemplation. Some of these tavern-keepers 
were: the landlord of the "Highland," at Beaver 
Street and Broadway; the landlord of the "Robin 
Hood"; Lowry, keeper of a tavern near the Oswego 
Market, at Broadway and Maiden Lane; James 
Houlding, whose alehouse was at Tryon Row near 
R-i 40<j 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

the Barracks; and one Corbie, who kept a place 
very near Washington's residence. Two of the Life- 
gMi;u<]s, who had been specially selected for their 
zeal, bravery and character, were secured by the 
conspirators; and one of them, Hickey, was selected 
to kill the General. Hickej' resolved to perform his 
task by using poison, and he flattered himself that 
Miss Fraunces, whose company he affected, would 
aid him. When she perceived the design of the 
scoundrel she humored him, pretended to be deeply 
smitten with him, and agreed to mix the poison 
with the General's green peas. She quietly informed 
Washington of the plot, and the peas which had 
been fixed according to Hickey 's plans were re- 
jected. The mayor and more than twenty others 
were arrested, but oiih" Hickey lost his life. He 
was executed on Colonel Rutger's grounds, east of 
the Bowery, in the presence of twenty thousand 
people. 

When Washington became President he selected 
Fraunces for his steward, and many were the jour- 
neys which old Sam made to the Flj' Market in 
Maiden Lane to purchase supplies for the Presi- 
dent's table. 

The first meeting to consider the Boston Port 
Act was held at Fraunces' Tavern, and was ad- 
journed to the Merchants' Exchange, only because 
the tavern was not large enough to accommodate 
the crowd. "New York laid the cornerstone of the 
American Union bj* her course in support of Bos- 
ton at this trying time" (General Austin Stevens), 
410 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

"Wall Street was filled with rejoicing when Gen- 
oral Knox, General "Washington and Governor Clin- 
ton led the processions through it on Evacuation 
Day; but never was ecstasy more nearly realized 
by a great multitude than at the time of Washing- 
ton's inauguration and the commencement of our 
constitutional government. The greatness of the 
victory, and the responsibilities and difficulties which 
it entailed, were not considered until after the En- 
glish sailed away. Then it was realized not only 
that a detested government had been overthrown, 
but that the people of the colonies, who had bravely 
fought together, had no system to erect in its place 
that would be strong and respectable, and that 
would not interfere at some point with the rights 
of the States. The conceded weakness of the Con- 
federation, and the apparent impossibility of agreeing 
upon anything stronger, had put the people in doubt 
and uncertainty, and had caused many to believe 
that they had gone too far in separating from Eng- 
land. 

While New York's governor, CHnton, was op- 
posed to the proposed Constitution, and an influen- 
tial body of the people followed his lead, her idol, 
Hamilton, was its principal architect, exponent and 
defender. The battle over its adoption was fought 
out on New York's soil, and when Hamilton pre- 
vailed over Clinton, the matter was settled. Hamil- 
ton's earnestness and brilliancy; his great services 
to Washington and the American cause; his com- 
manding position, and his signal victory in the con- 
411 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

test over the Constitution made the people of his 
Cit}' proud of him, and gave them a peculiar feel- 
ing- of personal relation to the Constitution and the 
Nation. They had celebrated the adoption of the 
Constitution, and now thej' were to behold its first 
practical operation, and to give a home to the new 
government in their own Citj' Hall. Their own 
Chancellor was to administer the oath of office to 
the President. The old building had been improved 
and decorated at a large expense for those daj's, 
which was prompth' provided by the voluntary offer- 
ings of the people. 

Washington, who b}' his known virtue and un- 
selfishness had in liis own person overthrown the 
last powerful argument against the adoption of the 
Constitution, was especially loved in New York, 

The nobility of Governor Clinton's character was 
shown in his allegiance to the plan of government, 
and in his hearty participation in the ceremonies. 
All differences were forgotten, and the entire popu- 
lation joined in the celebration. 

On the morning of April 2o. 1789, the river 
front was crowded with people. Presently a barge 
carrying the President, and rowed by thirteen ship 
captains, came up out of the Kill von KuU. French 
and Spanish ships of war saluted it; a procession of 
small boats followed it as it moved toward the City. 
The resounding guns woke the voices of the multi- 
tudes on shore. Governor Clinton waited at the foot 
of Wall Street to receive the President. Colonel 
Bauman, who had held a prominent position in the 
412 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

column of troops that reocciipied New York in 1783, 
commanded the mihtary escort. 

This was the order of the procession as officially 
declared : 

"Colonel Lewis. 

Majors Morton and Van Home and their troop of 

Dragoons. 

Captain Stakes. 

German Grenadiers. 

Captain Scriba. 

Music. 

Infantry of the Brigade. 

Captains Swartout and Steddiford. 

Grenadiers. 

Captain Harsin. 

Regiment of Artillery. 

Colonel Bauman. 

31 u sic. 

General Malcolm and Aids. 

Officers of the Mihtia — Two and Two. 

Committee of Congress. 

The Most Illustrious, The President of the United States, 

and 

His Excellency, Governor Clinton. 

The President's Suite. 

Officers of the State. 

The Mayor and Aldermen of New York. 

The Reverend Clergy. 

Their Excellencies, the French and Spanish Embassadors 

in Carriages. 

Citizens. ' ' 

■il3 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

The procession turned up Pearl Street, and es- 
corted the President to the house that had been 
prepared for him at Cherry Street. After he had 
inspected his home, he was escorted back through 
Pearl Street to the residence of Governor Clinton, 
in the old De Peyster mansion on Pearl Street oppo- 
site Pine, where he dined, and received congratula- 
tions. April 30th was set for the formal inaugura- 
tion. For a week the city was in a ferment, and 
Washington was almost worn out with hand shak- 
ing. On the great day, crowds came into town from 
every direction. All the cannon were fired and all 
the bells were rung. The inaugural procession or- 
ganized at the President's residence, and proceeding 
down Pearl Street, continued on beyond Wall, and 
turned into Broad Street, marching up the gentle 
slope to the City Hall, which lay directly across the 
head of Broad Street. Washington stepped from His 
carriage, and, attended by Senators and various com- 
mittees, entered the building. He stepped on to the 
open balcony, and facing the assembled people, who 
filled the open space at Wall and Broad Streets — 
while the blessings of the nation fell upon him, and 
prayers for his safety and success rose from thou- 
sands of hearts — he placed his hand upon the Bible 
held by Mr. Otis, Secretary of the Senate. The 
tumult was stilled. All heard the words of the 
Chancellor: ''You do solemnly swear that you wiJl 
faithfully execute the office of President of the 
United States, and will to the best of your ability 
preserve, protect and defend the Constitution of 
414 



XEW YORK CITY LIFE 

the United States.'" They listened intently for 
Washington's voice. It came slowly and solemnly: 
"7 do solemnly sivear that I ivill faithfulh/ exe- 
cute the office of President of the United States, 
and will to the best of my ability preserve, pro- 
tect and defend the Constitution of the United 
States, so help me God.'" As he leaned forward 
to kiss the book, the new nation's beautiful flag 
was raised on the building, the people broke forth 
into joyous shouts, and the guns on the forts and 
the ships joined in the tumult. The stone of the 
balcony on which he stood is carefully preserved in 
the Treasury building. Washington quickly re-en- 
tered the building, and with ill-concealed nervous- 
ness and embarrassment read his inaugural address 
to Congress. 

"Fellow-citizens of the Senate and House of 
Representatives : 

"Among the vicissitudes incident to life, no event 
could have filled me with greater anxieties than 
that of which the notification was transmitted by 
your order, and received on the 14th day of this 
month. On the one hand I was summoned by my 
country, whose voice I can never hear but with 
veneration and love, from a retreat which I had 
chosen with the fondest predilection, and, in my 
flattering hopes, with an immutable decision, as the 
asylum of my declining years; a retreat which was 
rendered every day more necessary and more dear 
to me, by the addition of habit to inclination, and 
415 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

of frequent interruptions in my health by the gradual 
waste committed on it by time. On the other hand, 
the magnitude and difficulty of the trust, to which 
the voice of my country called me, being sufficient 
to awaken in the wisest and most experienced of 
her citizens a distrustful scrutiny into his qualifica- 
tions, could not but overwhelm with despondenc}' 
one, who, inheriting inferior endowments from nat- 
ure, and unpracticed in the duties of civil admin- 
istration, ought to be peculiarly conscious of his own 
deficiencies. In this conflict of emotions, all I dare 
aver is, that it has been my faithful study to col 
lect my duty from a just appreciation of every cir- 
cumstance by which it might be affected. All 1 
dare hope is, that if, in executing this task, I have 
been too much swaj^ed by a grateful remembrance 
of former instances, or by an affectionate sensibility 
to this transcendent proof of the confidence of m}- 
fellow-citizens; and have thence too little consulted 
my capacit}' as well as disinclination for the weight}- 
and untried cares before me; my error will be 
palliated by the motives which misled me, and its 
consequences be judged by my countr}- with some 
share of the partiality in which thej^ originated. 

"Such being the impressions under which I have, 
in obedience to the public summons, repaired to the 
present station, it would be peculiar!}^ improper to 
omit, in the first official act, my fervent supplica- 
tions to that Almighty Being, who rules over the 
universe, who presides in the councils of nations, 
and whose providential aids can supply every human 
416 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

defect, that His benediction may consecrate to the 
Uberties and happiness of the people of the United 
States a government instituted by themselves for 
these essential purposes, and may enable every in- 
strument employed in its administration to execute 
^vith success the functions allotted to his charge. In 
tendering this homage to the great Author of every 
public and private good, I assure myself that it 
expresses your sentiments not less than my own; 
nor those of my fellow-citizens at large, less than 
either. No people can be bound to acknowledge and 
adore the Invisible Hand, which conducts the affairs 
of men, more than the people of the United States. 
Every step, by which they have advanced to the 
character of an independent Nation, seems to have 
been distinguished by some token of providential 
agency. And in the important revolution just accom- 
pKshed in the system of their united government, 
the tranquil deliberations and voluntary consent of 
so many distinct communities, from which the event 
has resulted, cannot be compared with the means 
by which most governments have been estabhshed, 
without some return of pious gratitude, along mth 
an humble anticipation of the future blessings which 
the past seems to presage. These reflections, rising 
out of the present crisis, have forced themselves 
upon my mind too strongly to be suppressed. You 
will join with me, I trust, in thinking that there 
are none, under the influence of which the proceed- 
ings of a new and free government can more au- 
spiciously begin. 

417 



THE AMERICAX METROPOLIS 

"By the article establishing the Executive De- 
partment, it is made the duty of the President to 
recommend to your consideration such measm-es as 
he shall judge necessary and expedient. The circum- 
stances under which I now meet you, will acquit 
me from entering into that subject further than to 
reter you to the great constitutional charter under 
which we are assembled; and which, in defining j^our 
powers, designates the object to which your attention 
is to be given. It will be more consistent vnth 
those circumstances and far more congenial with the 
feehngs which actuate me, to substitute, in place 
of a recommendation of particular measures, the 
tribute that is due to the talents, the rectitude and 
the patriotism which adorn the characters selected 
to devise and adopt them. In these honorable quali- 
fications I behold the surest pledges, that as, on 
one side, no local prejudices or attachments, no sep- 
arate views or party animosities, will misdirect the 
comprehensive and equal eye, which ought to watch 
over this great assemblage of communities and in- 
terests; so, on another, that the foundations of om- 
national policy, will be laid in the pure and immu- 
table principles of private morahty, and the pre- 
eminence of a free government be exemphfied by 
all the attributes which can win the affections of 
its citizens and command the respect of the world. 

"I dwell on this prospect with every satisfaction 

which an ardent love for my country can inspire; 

since there is no truth more thoroughly established 

than that there exists in the economy and course of 

418 



NE\Y YORK CITY LIFE 

natui-e an indissoluble union between virtue and 
happiness, between duty and advantage, between 
the genuine maxims of an honest and magnanimous 
policy, and the solid rewards of public prosperity 
and felicity; since we ought to be no less persuaded 
that the propitious smiles of Heaven can never be 
expected on a nation that disregards the eternal 
rules of order and right, which Heaven itself has 
ordained; and since the preservation of the sacred 
tire of liberty, and the destinj' of the republican 
model of government, are justlj- considered as deeply, 
perhaps as finally, staked on the experiment intrusted 
to the hands of the American people. 

"Besides the ordinarj- objects submitted to your 
care, it will remain with your judgment to decide 
how^ far an exercise of the occasional power dele- 
gated by the fifth article of the Constitution is ren- 
dered expedient at the present juncture by the nat- 
ure of objections which have been urged against 
the system, or by the degree of inquietude which 
has given birth to them. Instead of undertaking 
particular recommendations on this subject, in which 
I could be guided by no lights derived from official 
opportunities, I shall again give way to my entire 
confidence in your discernment and pursuit of the 
public good; for, I assure myself that, while you 
carefully avoid every alteration which might endan- 
ger the benefits of a united and effective govern- 
ment, or which ought to await the future lessons 
of experience; a reverence for the characteristic 
rights of freemen, and a regard for public har- 
419 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

mony, will sufficiently influence your deliberations 
on the question, how far the former can be more 
impregnably fortified, or the latter be safely and 
advantageously promoted. 

"To the preceding observations I have one to 
add, which will be most properly addressed to the 
House of Representatives. It concerns myself, and 
will, therefore, be as brief as possible. When I was 
first honored with a call into the service of my 
country, then on the eve of an arduous struggle 
for its liberties, the light in which I contemplated 
my duty required that I should renounce every 
pecuniary compensation. From this resolution I 
have in no instance departed. And being still un- 
der the impression which produced it, I must de- 
cline as inapplicable to myself any share in the per- 
sonal emoluments which may be indispensabh' in- 
cluded in a permanent provision for the Executive 
department; and must accordingly pray that the 
pecuniary estimates for the station in which I am 
placed may, during my continuance in it, be limited 
to such actual expenditures as the public good may 
be thought to require. 

"Having thus imparted to you my sentiments, as 
they have been awakened by the occasion which 
brings us together, I shall take my present leave; 
but not without resorting once more to the benign 
Parent of the human race, in humble supplication, 
that, since He has been pleased to favor the Ameri- 
can people with opportunities for deliberating in per- 
fect tranquilhty, and dispositions for deciding with 
4-20 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

unparalleled unanimity on a form of government for 
the security of their union and the advancement of 
their happiness; so His divine blessing may be equally 
conspicuous in the enlarged views, the temperate 
consultations, and the wise measures, on which the 
success of this government must depend." 

When Washington concluded this address, Con- 
gress adjourned for a service in St. Paul's Chapel 
at Broadway and Vesey Street. The military escort 
preceded them, and it surrounded the church while 
the chosen men of the nation committed its des- 
tinies to the Providence which has so signally blessed 
it with progress and prosperity. The day was full 
of rejoicing, and at night the City was gayly il- 
luminated, Federal Hall being conspicuous by an 
elegant and tasteful arrangement of lanterns. 

New York fairly exhausted herself in the elabora- 
tion of this festival, and in the hearty participation 
of the people. 

One hundred years later — April 29 to May 1, 1889 
— the cefitennial of the inauguration was celebrated 
in a programme that was designed to follow closely 
the details of the original occasion. The jubilee of 
1889 exceeded any other memorial that had been 
attempted by the City; and its features graphically 
illustrated the century's growth. 

The little barge which was rowed from Elizabeth- 
port carried President Harrison as Washington had 
been carried; but the spectacle which its occupants 
beheld transcended that of a himdred years before 
421 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

by all the marvelous development of the century. 
Where had floated two or three foreign warships, 
built of wood, propelled by sails and armed with 
pop-gun cannon, there were great steam vessels of 
war, built of steel, armor-clad, and carrj-ing heavy 
ordnance. In place of a few attending barges rowed 
by oarsmen, there was a great fleet of steam craft, 
ranging from tugboats to steamships. Instead of 
the antique fort and the little buildings containing 
stores and simple homes, with hills and forests sur- 
rounding them, that Washington viewed, there were 
palaces of trade and commerce, towering to the skies; 
and in every direction the vision was filled with the 
habitations of a vast populace. Where a few thou- 
sand people welcomed the first President, hundreds 
of thousands jostled each other in the thoroughfares. 
On the httle island that showed to Washington sim- 
ply its beautiful green verdure, towered the great 
statue of Liberty, which in recent years has testified 
to the union of sentiment between the two nations 
that learned to know each other through Washing- 
ton. In the fleet that accompanied President Har- 
rison there were ten war vessels, fifty steamboats, 
and one hundred and fifty tugboats, besides steam 
yachts and various other steam craft, and it passed 
by many majestic ocean liners bedecked with flags, 
and too large to be safely handled in procession. 
The landing at "Wall Street was made in the pres- 
ence of a vast multitude. Soldiers were there too; 
many of them veterans of a great war that Wash- 
ington knew nothing of, but which was fought to 
422 



KEW YORK CITY LIFE 

sustain and perpetuate the Union and the Constitu- 
tion for which he had labored. There were gov- 
ernors of States that Washington had never heard 
of. Washington's march up Pearl Street to the 
house prepared for him at Cherry Street was left 
out for obvious reasons. To tell of the representa- 
tive persons who participated in the various recep- 
tions of the celebration would require a book. The 
whole City was gay with decorations, many of them 
elaborate and expensive, and the railroads brought 
two hundred thousand visitors from surrounding 
cities. This army was tucked away vnth rea- 
sonable comfort in great and small hotels, cind 
in thousands of boarding-houses, and furnished rooms. 
Service was held at St. Paul's Chapel, as it was 
after Washington took the oath of office; Bishop 
Potter preaching the sermon. On the steps of 
the Treasury building were then held the com- 
memorative literary exercises, where Dr. Depew de- 
livered a masterly oration in the presence of the 
great men of the nation, and before a vast con- 
course of people. He said: 

"Success was due to confidence in Washington, 
and the genius of Alexander Hamilton. Jefferson 
was the inspiration of Independence, but Hamilton 
was the incarnation of the Constitution." And again, 
"No man ever stood for so much to his country 
and to mankind as George Washington. Hamilton, 
Jefferson, Adams, Madison and Jay, each repre- 
sented some of the elements that formed the Union. 
Washington embodied them all. They fell at times 
423 



THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS 

undei- popular disapproval, were burned in effigy, 
were stoned; but he, with unerring judgment, was 
alwaj's the leader of the people. Blot out from the 
page of history the names of all the great actors 
of his time in the drama of nations and preserve 
the name of Washington, and the century would be 
renowned." And again, "The spirit of Washington 
fills the executive office. Presidents may not rise to 
the full measure of his greatness, but they must 
not fall below his standard of public duty and obliga- 
tion. His life and character conscientiously studied 
and thoroughly understood by coming generations 
will be for them a liberal education for private 
life and public station, for citizenship and patriot- 
ism, for love and devotion to Union and Liberty. 
With their inspiring past and splendid present the 
people of the LTnited States, heirs of a hundred 
years marvelously rich in all which adds to the 
glory and greatness of a nation, with an abiding- 
trust in the stability and elasticity of their Consti- 
tution and an abounding faith in themselves, hail 
the coming century with hope and joy." 

Truly the spirit of Washington inhabits the land, 
and as his memory is cherished and honored by the 
people, so do patriotism and A^irtue thrive. Of all 
the places in our own City where we may call up 
this majestic and helpful spirit, and receive its in- 
spiration and strength, this spot at Wall and Broad 
Streets, where he entered upon the greatest duties of 
his life, brings him most closely and helpfully to us. 
424 



NEW YORK CITY LIFE 

The militaiy forces, both regular and militia, 
which paraded on the second day numbered fifty 
thousand men, and represented every State; and the 
civic armj' on the following day came from every 
nation and every calling, and numbered not less 
than the military. We must resist the temptation 
to describe the many striking features of this great 
celebration, and must content ourselves with suggest- 
ing, simply, the connection between the past and 
the present, the development which has taken place, 
and the great stores of rich historic associations, full 
of patriotic inspiration, that are here for busy New 
Yorkers if they will open their hearts and their 
minds to them. 

[The next chapter should be read as a part of 
this chapter. The di\'ision is made only for the 
convenience of readers.] 



END OF VOLUME ONE 



425 



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